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Hey guys! We're Junsei Auto Parts from Sydney and we remake discontinued interior trim, 1:1 identical to OEM quality. We've been bringing back discontinued interior trim for the R32 and JZA80 Supra. So far we've remade the R32 Stereo Fascia Surround and the Dash Defrosters, pics below 👇 We're here to ask what discontinued parts do you want back? Not limited to any Skyline! Drop your suggestions and we'll see what we can do! Check out our R32 parts here: https://www.junseiautoparts.com/collections/nissan-skyline-r32

Hey all. Restoring a plastic Altia body kit ive got and spraying it white to match my car, and had a few questions So I have been pulling the mesh grills off, ready for spray painting, and was going to re-coat the grills in Black. The grills are metal, not plastic, as some spots the coating has lifted and i can see theyre metal. It seems the coating on them is some sort of thick rubberised coating with a smooth finish. It’s definitely much thicker than powder coat and has a different texture. Has anyone stripped this sort of part back and re-coated it? What did you use to strip it back and what coating did you go with afterwards? I was going to try and blast it, but not sure if that’s the best option for this kind of coating Also on the black plastic “SKYLINE” section at the bottom, it’s obviously just raw black plastic, unpainted. Unfortunately there is a small scuff on it, what can i do to get that looking nice and remove the scuff? I also have a dent in the rear bar, seems heat has deformed it, i didnt want to just sand it back as the dent may be too deep and cause the plastic to be too thin in that area, how can I shape it back ready to light sand and maybe a little high fill? Lastly, on the rear bar are some “grill” checkered plastic feature bits that are unpainted, and have faded to grey. Whats the best way to restore them to a nice black? thanks heaps in advance!

Hey guys. So my bottom end has a potential issue, engine comes out to drop the sump later this week to see exactly what, has a bit of a knock on cold start up that goes away. My heads were recently done due to a found exhaust valve leak, so upgraded springs and retainers, and upgraded drop in cams while it was out. Heads went back on and we found the bottom end was knocking at high RPM (not very loud as was heard through the knock box and ear muffs) when they were doing a dyno run with the new head on. Car hasnt been started up again since I have the option to purchase a freshly machined and honed RB25DET block, with a R34 GTR RB26 Crank, Nitto rods, nitto oil pump, new head studs, main studs, new main bearings for $3500, will need to get my own pistons though as he used the pistons for his RB25/30 build he ended up doing instead, and has had the built block sitting for a while and wants to clear it out. Block had only been assembled for test fitment of everything, then pulled apart so he could use the Nitto Pistons he had in his RB30 build OR Get my current RB25DET Neo bottom end fixed up, possible machining, new bearings, new rings, etc etc. Wasnt looking to do forged internals but could go down that track Was looking to make 300-350 rwkw for now, maybe 400rwkw, as I do have all supporting mods already outside the engine to go to that power (besides the turbo but will upgrade that while im at it) Will i see much of a difference using the RB26 internals? I know the crank has a longer stroke, what advantages will I see and is it worth just getting the almost-ready-to-drop-in bottom end and going with that, or freshening up my stock Neo bottom end? thanks in advance

Hey guys, I'm back with another tutorial that I made (thanks to isolation). This is on a how to swap the RB25 bottom end to a RB30 bottom end with a 25 head in a R34 (R33s and R32 should be kinda similar i think) that I did last year. I had to split the tutorial into 3 parts (each part is like 15mins). It starts with preping the RB30 block, to taking out the RB25, and then putting in the RB30/25 and starting it. The reason why I did an RB30 swap was not because of an upgrade but because my RB25 was showing up bad results on the comp tests and there were cheap RB30s going around (I actually made money out of selling parts from the RB30 that I didn't need lol). The goal for this car is only to be a daily responsive streeter on pump fuel (won't ever take it to the track). It's my first time ever doing something like this (I had no help, did this on my own), so take it as a guide line. If I were to do this again, I would definitely use a proper engine crane and take the whole engine out including the gearbox next time, but yeah... this was a real poor mans job and it got the job done and I've been driving this RB30/25DET Neo everyday to and from work as my daily and I've never had a problem with it (have been clocking 5000+ Kms on it as of 10/4/2020). Here's the videos: Part 1: Part 2: Part 3: I'm really happy with the outcome. Considering I knew nothing about RBs or any engine before I bought this R34. I learnt everything from researching (a shit load) on these forums, so thanks SAU, here's me giving back. The car ended up making 323.8 HP on the dyno with my OP6 highflow turbo which is a bit too small for this engine. So I will go with a bigger one in the near future. List of mods on my car previously that I brought over to the RB30 swap: HyperGear G2 RB25DET OP6 highflow turbo with ballbearing 3" turbo back exhaust 100mm thick FMIC Splitfire coil packs Xspurt 525cc injectors HDI EBC Nistune ECU Z32 AFM Walbro 255lph fuel pump (hard wire mod) 98RON Exedy HD clutch External oil cooler Koyorad all aluminum radiator Just something to add here on the side if anyone was interested (kinda like a build page, but I might as well put it here). This was my whole budget explained: So the total amount that I spent on this build/recon/swap was $3415. I bought a complete RB30 engine (without the box) for $150. Apparently this engine was used in a TAFE course for mechanic students to practise timing stuff on, so the pisons had heaps of screw driver marks on. A recon was in the picture anyways because I want this engine to last for ages. So I only wanted to keep the block, crank and rods. I sold everything els (head, alternator, ecu ect) for $240. That's already a profit of $90 lol! The reconditioning of the RB30 block and RB25 head was the most expensive out of the whole budget costing $1420. The recon from Harris Engines in Perth: $400 - Bore and torque plate hone $190 - Face block $180 - Machine and fit crank collar $90 - Acid bath $90 - Face/deck RB25 head $50 - Acid bath head $90 - Face flywheel $150 - Fitment of pistons to rods $180 - Balance rotating assembly All other things: $270 - 1mm oversized Hypatec RB30ET set of pistons + Hastings Rings $253.45 - RB25 ARP Head stud kit (202-4301) from wolf racing $261.25 - RB25DET Neo genuine nissan gasket kit $106.49 - RB30 ACL race main STD bearing set $88 - RB30 ACL race conrod STD bearing set $30 - RB30 small end rod bushes/bearing set $99 - RB crank collar from Lewis Engines $38.75 - RB oil restrictors (one 1.5mm and one blank one) $38 - RB30 brass welsh plugs $13.71 - RB spigot bush $38.98 - RB genuine nissan timing belt fastner kit $41.5 - genuine nissan thermostat $78.14 - Genuine nissan R34 pull type thrust bearing $110.5 - Genuine nissan RB25 exhaust manifold fastner kit $43.2 - Dayco 94407 (T866) timing belt $72.11 - Mamba RB30/25 turbo water braided line kit $81.59 - Braided -4AN hose + fittings for the external VTC feed from Enzed $330 - Dyno tuned car by C-Red in Perth All of the labour except for the recon and tuning was done by me.

Hey guys. So took my car to a local tuner/mechanic to get it looked over, showed low compression cylinders 5 and 6, they did a leak down test, showed exhaust leak was the culprit. Rest of the cylinders were around 160PSI on average. Only issue i had with the car was with the A/C on, when it was a really hot day, and car was warmed up, when the AC belt engaged/disengaged, the revs would drop a little briefly and before the revs picked back up it dropped enough to stall out, also happened occasionally when going from 3rd to 2nd and i did a slow gear change, the revs would drop and engine would stall briefly until i released the clutch and the engine turned over. With A/C off it wouldn’t do that at all. This particular shop unfortunately didnt have the time to do the work for quite a while due to some race events coming up and the cars they were working on for those, so went to another shop that had a bit of a shorter time before i could get in, and had good reviews. They took the heads off, got it machined, serviced, new head studs, new gaskets, upgraded the valve springs and retainers, upgraded the cams, put it all back together. Theyre now getting about 120-130PSI across all cylinders, car really struggles to start up, and is making only 180kw ATW on 20PSI of boost, and previous owner who had all the work/tune done had 300kw ATW when he got a dyno test done Is there something shonky going on? How can the PSI drop so bad across the 4 front cylinders that were ok originally?

Hey guys. Need to get the head machined, as a leak down test showed some major leaking coming from the exhaust valves in cylinders 5 and 6. Im looking at upgrading the cams, valve springs, and they will replace the usual little bits and pieces as part of a head refurbishment. Any other things I should do while the heads off?

hi there i got a HR34 and it stop start i dont know why when i try to start the car it crunk but did not start and when i stop crucking it i get a sound from the trriger ( 3 or 4 tiking sound ) with a engine flashing i change everything and look at the timming for the engine every thing ok i got a haltech plug in ecu this a video for what happening

Hi guys I got a issue with my R34 GT-Turbo 1998, Semi Automatic for Months now but manged.. Regardless when the car is cold or warmed up, when I shift into Reverse or Drive.. the rpm drops and will stall. It starts back up again perfectly fine. Now the only way I can manage to bypass this is to give it a little gas right after I shift into gear so the revs won't drop and stall out on me. And also when I come to a full stop at a red light for example, the car revs would drop and sometimes stall too. The only way I can stop this is manually use the TipTronic and shift it into Gear 1 before I fully get to a Stop and it won't stall out. I forgot to mention most importantly that the A/T light flashes before I start the car up. it flashes 16 times. Now it also gets WORSE, lets say I attempted to "Drift" which I never have even done, but lets say I wanted to, for example. When I get to a Roundabout and start turning while giving abit of gas, the revs somehow holds back and the A/T light then comes on after I turn and the car will start going into LIMP Mode. So I would have to shut it off and start the car back up again and it runs fine and the A/T light is gone. The only way I can bypass this that when I get to a corner or a sharp turn.., I can't accelerate while turning at the same time all else the A/t Light comes back on, As I straighten the wheel back straight the Revs pick up again as if the car didn't allow me to go fast on a corner... I can't even have a joy ride anymore My power Steering fluid is full too so hmmm Now I just got my Throttle Position Sensor changed and cleaned the Throttle, I have also checked for any vacuum leaks carefully but nothing. I changed my Coil packs/spark plugs recently too, Cleaned my O2 Sensor, Cleaned the Air flow meter and checked for any leaks, cleaned the Idler Air Valve, Checked my Automatic fluid and its nice and red and on Full (also got it serviced for new transmission filter and fluid changed) tried a lot but still no good Now I can only think of Solenoids A & B or some sort of Sensor The R34 GT-T features : Stock BOV, Aftermarket Pod Filter, 3" Turbo dump pipe, Stock Intercooler, Splitfire Coils, Ngk Iridium Spark plugs. I'm thinking of getting rid of it after spending so much on it but still no mechanic can diagnose this for me. What do you guys think ? Thanks !

My current project car is a '92 Supercharged MX5, I've been building it over the past 5 years but sadly its time to move on. Like most, my dream car is an R34, a GTR will always be out of my price range but I would certainly be happy with a GTT. I'd decided the MX5 would be stripped and sold in September when the insurance expires and then start the search for a clean R34. I wouldnt be a true car enthusiast if i wasn't already looking for cars on the interweb with this decision in mind. My fingers were starting to hurt after refreshing various selling and auction sites here and Japan too often. One car I kept being drawn back to was a white Series 2. It ticked all the boxes for what i was looking for, except it was the facelift front bumper that was preventing me from looking deeper into the details. So i messaged the seller and asked for a few more details and photos, very quick responses and the amount of photos asked on request was overwhelming. Was it worth the 7hr round trip to go look at it, to potentially not like it? If it was as clean as it was in the photos, something major must have had been up with it if i was to walk away. Luckily this wasn't the case, infact the car was even better in person. After a test drive and a good poke around i really couldnt fault the car except for a knock on the driver side rear. So with an offer made he accepted and I drove away extremely happy! The 170ish mile drive home was faultless and i look forward to digging in and putting my own stamp on it. It would have been rude to not get some photos, especially with the MX5 Nissan Skyline R34 GTT Series 2 RB25DET NEO 6 Manual Transmission Imported in 2016 by IBE Cars in Huddersfield,UK Resprayed in original Pearl White in 2017 Its stock except for a custom turbo back exhaust, HKS mushroom filter and aftermarket stereo

Brand new, no longer needed These retail over $500-Asking 380 FPR2000 (there largest in that model) can flow huge power, only mod is AN3 vacuum port-Driven less that 5k’s bexley area

Hi everyone. Just wondering. has anyone attempted changing the tail lights on a 34 gtr. I have just got some LED ones and want to put them on myself but not sure if its hard work or not. dont want to start and then not be able to finish it. ha cheers

URGENT SALE: Moving overseas very soon and need the car gone. R34 GTT turbo manual. Have owned the car for almost 2 years, before I purchased it, I had a RACV test on it at 96,650km's where it received a GO rating. I still have the paperwork. As soon as I bought it, had the 100k service done (timing belt, water pump etc) and have had it serviced regularly at performance workshops. I have all the receipts/invoices for everything on it while i have owned it. It hasn't missed a beat. Was serviced last at Chasers on 31st of January 2013 at 108,019km's with fresh motul 8100 oil. (It currently has 108,041km's) I have not abused the car while owning it, never revving it above 3500rpm until the oil has warmed up. I am 28, and drive it maturely. It has the the following bits on it including; -Front mount Intercooler -K&N panel filter -Full exhaust with stainless steel catback -2 way factory electric sunroof I also have a set of 17 inch standard alloys with tyres, along with the 19 inch wheels pictured, all will be included in the sale. I am sure there is alot more I'm forgetting, If you have any questions, please dont hesitate to call me with them. Just please no silly low ball offers without even seeing the car. The price is $12,000 as is, with no registration, as selling a registered car in Vic without a roadworthy is illegal. If you want the car with a RWC and reg the price is $14,900. (I havent had a list made yet of items needed for RWC this price is just to cover me in case it requires it.) It is currently registered until the end of August 2013 The car is currently insured for $16,800. Located in Ivanhoe East, VIC 3079 Please contact me on 0401 485 089 Thanks for reading -Mark

Hey guys i got three of these pink label Air Flow Meters off R33 GTST and R34 GTT models. they work fine, one has a pod filter attached. Located in Thomastown, Melbourne. Happy to post at buyers expense. Want $30 each for them. Hit me up with a text on 0413323385 cheers.

Hey All, I am selling my factory manual turbo RB25 R34 GTT Sedan as I have a company car and hardly ever drive it. I have owned the car for two years and done most of the modifications myself using genuine parts. This is a perfect blank canvas for anyone into JDM, Drift or VIP style cars. I have recently just renewed the rego and the car has been given a detail and paint freshen up. The car comes with the following: Factory Manual RB25DET Heavy Duty clutch Factory Bilstein suspension (1inch lower than standard) great comfortable ride GCG Hi-flow turbo CD Player/Ipod connectivity Carrozeria Speakers Factory Option Nismo Knee rest Rare Nismo "S Tune" Bodykit Nismo Clear Indicators Custom Turbo back 3.5 inch Exhaust with Jap Twin muffler Air con works perfectly Serviced every 5000kms Tinted Windows Option to also have Fortune Auto coilovers fitted. I am open to discuss swap/trade for a turbo Nissan S13,S14,Silvia,180sx,Cefiro, Laurel, R32 R33 sedan, 200sx or similar that can be used as track car with trailer plus cash on top. May also consider Ford F6, XR6 Turbo or Golf R32. Options available are: $16990 - Bilstein & Stock wheels $17990 - Coilovers & Stock wheels $18995 - Coilovers & Stock wheels (all stock parts including Bilstein) $19995 - All of the above including aftermarket wheels such as 19inch G-Games. Bronze Do-Luck Wheels & Chrome Linea Sport in pics are NOT INCLUDED IN SALE. Stock wheels or other aftermarket may be negotiated. 19 inch G-Games Rays wheels can be negotiated. Please feel free to contact me on during business hours. Cheers Phill

Looking for O shaped or eyelet shaped springs or coilovers. I am located in Sydney, feel free to contact me, Raymond 0404232880

Looking for a bolt on turbo to retain the stock low mount of my R34 GTT. Interested in anything from a Highflow OP6 to above... Bolt on = low mount, standard manifold, standard 6 bolt dump pipe pattern please.

Hi All, I'm chasing a set of 6 fuel injectors for my R34 RB25DET NEO. Prefer a brand new set that you may no longer need! Standard 14mm rail - 3/4 length. Would like to retain the stock wiring loom - so if you have wiring adapters for bosch/ID/Siemens, great! Oh, and I'm chasing the 250-300rwkw mark (still undecided).

Looking for lowered springs or coil overs for my r34 gt-four. I need gtr springs as it is also awd, and the rears are fork type btw. Feel free to contact me! Raymond, 0404232880 thx

Immaculate condition R34 Turbo GTT. I have owned this car for the past 5 years as a weekend car. Has never let me down. It is in fantastic condition inside and out and has full service history with log books, never missed a service. Paint work is excellent and the interior is as new. No modifications except drop in K&N filter and cat back exhaust. Also has deep dish 19 inch Lenso shadow chrome rims with Kumho tyres. It is the best condition black R34 in Perth. Because this car has full service history you can be rest assured the Kilometres have not been tampered with like many of the R34’s for sale. Car has never been raced, never been thrashed, never been on a track, and has no major modifications. I will even welcome an RAC inspection if needed. Has some really cool features such as: 4 wheel steering (HICAS) Traction control on or off Electric windows and mirrors Tiptronic and paddle shift (can shift gears up and down from steering wheel) CD/mini disk player Turbo Timer Keyless Entry Alarm and immobiliser Bucket seats and more… Please no scammers, joy riders, or low ball offers. Happy to talk with any genuine buyer after 12noon $11500 ono 0423 577 897

hi guys and girls up for sale is my standard 98 na "non turbo" r34 skyline. 4 speed automatic/tiptronic transmission perfect if your on your ps or looking for a good looking reliable ride in good condition. very low k's 117906km's on the clock. rego till the 12th of july 13. not on revs, owing money etc so no strings attached. features include a brand new alarm system, aircon, central locking, electric windows, cd player all the basics. the car drives smooth with a decent amount of power no mechanical problems at all allways on 98 octane. tho it could use a wheel alignment, iv'e been to busy to get that done, which is fairly cheap i believe. reason why im selling is due to the fact that i lost my licence and its better driven and enjoyed then for it to sit on my driveway. i am however willing to swap for something equivalent in value or an r32 turbo or na in manual, track/drift cars or cars such as a b or k serious vtec honda, rx7s pretty much anything fun make an offer dont be shy just nothing silly. please no charades. thanks for the interest please no low ballers i do prefer cash over trade. at $10,500 o.n.o it is the cheapest on the market for this model. any questions or to book an inspection feel free to call or txt. 0416 918 031 more photos of interior and engine bay soon. nave

1997 Nissan 180SX type X Blacktop SR20DET 84,000km original km's (on digital Odometer) Highflow t28BB turbo just checked 1000km ago Replaced all gaskets recently 1000km ago Stainless Steel Manifold Full Exhaust system turbo back with jap cannon out back. Blitz Bov (hidden) Hybrid Front Mounted intercooler, Sard Pod Intake Greddy Profec E01 Boost Controller (set to 12psi) HKS Springs with nismo shocks sits nice and low 110mm off the deck. Tune Agent Adjustable rear camber and toe arms Tune Agent Adjustable castor rods Strut tower brace for front (not on car at moment) Full 50mm widebody kit moulded into car (paintwork is average but looks ok) Type X wing is not on the car but comes with it. Rota Grids 16x 8 +22 offset rims 30mm hubcentric spacers (car sits fat with the 50mm widebody) Satnav / DVD in dash head unit with SD / USB input, blue tooth ETC. Full Type X interior with the comfy seats etc Digital Climate Control, Works perfect Drivers side airbag Selling cause i have too many cars at the moment and need some cash to fund another project. NSW rego till end of August 13. Keen to sell it quick so 9k or best offer , located mudgee NSW (3 hrs west of sydney) NO TIME WASTERS OR TYRE KICKERS, you dont have the cash, DONT MESSAGE ME. PM me if interested.

Hi all, as stated looking for a clutch fork from an R34 GT-T pull type gearbox. Also after the throw out bearing carrier or whatever it's called. Thanks in advance.

Hey guys, I'm chasing the rubber lining that goes all around the door and the plastic triangle that's on that's on the inside of the drivers side mirror on an R34 Coupe. If anyone can help me out getting these that would be awesome. Here's some pictures to help you understand what I mean.

Immaculate condition R34 Turbo GTT. I have owned this car for the past 5 years as a weekend car. Has never let me down. It is in fantastic condition inside and out and has full service history with log books, never missed a service. 173 000 un altered KMS Paint work is excellent and the interior is as new. No modifications except drop in K&N filter and cat back exhaust. Also has 19 inch Lenso shadow chrome rims with Kumho tyres. It is the best condition black R34 in Perth. *Tiptronic and paddle shift *alarm *central locking *climate control *CD and minidisc player *electric windows and mirrors plus many more features Please no scammers, joy riders, or low ball offers. Happy to discuss with any genuine buyer $ 12700 ono, email - [email protected] or call 0423 577 897 after 12noon

Hey Fellow Jdm bros I am currently selling my R34 GT25 Skyline Has concave concept rims 18's wrapped in bridgestone's that cost me 800 all up so all together i had spent around $2500 just on wheels it also currently has ssl's king springs so the wheel just is about half an inch apart from the guard, I recently took out the stock airbox and connected a pod filter to the maf which runs brilliant and sounds like all hell is breaking loose, I will sell it with a r33 gtr spoiler and a 2,5 inch straight pipe with a 4 inch cannon, i have replaced both front and back speaker's and added couple of tweeters, I have a few things to fix up before i sell it but i will hold it for anyone who is interested. Price: $ 12500 Need gone asap due to buying another car for work purposes Ring me on 0468422621 my name is Jonry and i work 5 days a work mon - fri 9 am - 6 pm but have a break at 1 pm and can talk usually whenever