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  1. Hey Guys, First time posting let me know if I've done something wrong. Does anyone on here have the HyperGear ATR43SS3 Ball Bearing Turbo fitted to their rb25? I'm looking for anyone that has had an rb engine tuned with this turbo. What is your turbo response like? max hp you have put through it? any vids? just need some info. I see alot of the SS2 but not much on the SS3. Thanks
  2. If the page links doesn't work, please manually enter the page number into URL for the corresponding page. This post was updated on: 01/06/2017: This thread is here providing information on our high flowed or built turbos as well as installation and trouble shooting. I'm happy to help or assist with every one who is currently using or looking to purchase our products or services. Brief Introduction about our selves: We are Australian based turbocharger manufacture in Melbourne, We worked with experienced and skilled local engineers to produce our goods and we've been doing that since Oct 2007. We constantly update our production turbochargers and will do our best deliver value to our customers. My name is Stao you can PM or contact 0413457185 if any assistance is required. For our High flowed RB25 Turbos, they comes in 21U or OP6 from factory. The 21U rear housings are smaller can capable of 430HP after high flowing, and larger OP6 are capable of doing around 460HP. PU high flow option is available for any one chasing for 450 to 500HP. They are built with a larger .82 internally gated turbine housing with Nissan OEM bolton pattern, braided oil feeding line and a high pressure actuator. Below is the Rb25det Hitach turbo high flow catalog with few dyno sheets. ATR43SS is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based with OEM dump pipe pattern. This series is specifically engineered for speed with smooth street driving ability. ATR43 is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based comes in .63 and .82 turbine housing with OEM dump pipe pattern. Power is rated from 450HP to 600HP depends on profile chosen. Initial release date: 24/08/2009: We also carry out turbocharger repairs, housing/CHRA modifications and high flow services for All Garrett, HKS, Mitsubishi, Toyota, KKK and Made in China turbochargers. Do feel free to PM / contact us for free assistance. Check (if you live in usa): Costco Weekly Ad, or Supercheap Auto Catalogue. Important Installation Notes for RB2xdet Highflowed and PU units: Sleeve bearing turbochargers requires higher volume of oil flow, are sold with 50cm long braided oil feeding line line that replaces the standard oil restrictor in side factory oil lines, 12mm benjo bolt, and a M12x1.25mm speed flow adaptor. The adaptor goes onto the engine block, benjo bolts goes into the bearing housing with hollow screw supplied. 3x copper washers are required during installation, Which we can supply them for $9 additional or can be purchased at local auto stores. Factory water lines: T3x bearing housing used are 3mms shorter then OEM Hitachi's bearing housings. Means water lines needs to be very slightly bent / forced backwards. Stock actuator: We normally modify the factory actuator's fitting bracket allowing it for a bit of preloading. The actuator bracket bolt wholes has to be filed 5mms towards the turbine housing if not received with the turbo or getting fitted by others. Once done it can be adjust and pre-load ensuring the waste gate is 100% shut. For PU high flowed and ATR43 units with larger Diameter turbine housings, the engine side water line needs to be slightly bent / altered around the housing area. Installing ATR43 turbocharger: ATR43 units generally runs on a round 3inches inlet and round 2 inches out let. It is highly recommended to run a metal intake pipe. How ever if you wish to bolton to stock gears you need: 1x 3inch straight hose, 1x 2.5inch metal sleeve, 1x 2inches 90 degrees hose, 1x 2inches metal sleeve. We can supply all those parts for $100 extra. Tip for a easy installation would be removing the actuator with bracket pre-installation, that would allow lot more room for your tools to reach the manifold studs, and install the actuator and bracket back on after the rest of the installation is complete. Make sure the actuator is preloaded by roughly 3mms. Since larger turbine housings are used, due to larger physical size most of them would be taller then stock pushing the exhaust back by roughly 15mms. Most cars would be running an aftermarket exhausts, depending on the angle of the pre-made dump / front pipe, check the clearance between that to the Air-con water drain pipe. If fouls, simply by pulling it back with zip ties and secure it on the chassis. ATR43Gx/SS2 DIY with photos ATR43SS1xx DIY with photos and video Easy Induction pipes: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-78 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-89 Couple of extremely important factors: 1. After turbo installation do check pressure leaks ( I can make you a simple plug with a hose nipple for $50). Turbo will not perform if there are leaks. 2. Most of our turbos are installed with a 18psi high pressure actuator. by pass all boost controlling devices on test run, Boost gain from EBC based on stock actuator will cause massive boost creep. 3. Make sure the car's got a at least 3inch metal induction pipe with pod filter. Do not run those metal stuffed stock intake pipe. 4. An good exhaust system should restrict no more then 10KWs (My HKS silent power made 3KWs restrictions on a 316rwkws application). So Dyno tune with cat and exhaust dropped, (front pipe only). Do a touch up run with exhaust on after tuning, Get a better exhaust if you see a massive power drop with exhaust. If above procedures are followed you will definitely get the desired power goal. Also people with RB25det R33s. pay attention to those 20 years old valve springs and valves. Mine were all chewed out and worped possibly from valve float. That will act as boost leak, causing lose in power and response. Recommend stronger valve springs. Order, dispatch and mechanic services: All turbochargers are specifically built to suit customer's orders. We need in average 3 to 5 working days to have the order complete. We normally send with Australian post registered post with insurance, which generally takes 3 working days for delivery. We have 2x clients workshops in Melbourne which can carry out the installation service for $200, or onsite service for $250. For tuning, I personally use and recommend Status, and Dr.drift. ECU: For R33 RB25det I've personally used Adaptronic Plugin ECU and highly recommend it. The RRP price on this mode is $1499, We offer $400 discount of total if it is purchased with any of our turbochargers or high flow / rebuild service. Discount also apply for any customers whom is currently owning one of our built or high flowed turbochargers. Please check ECU features, results and discussion in page 113~116.
  3. Hello. Recently picked up an R33 GTST, S1.5, and I am very worried about the timing issues. The car ran rich when I got it, which was fixed by adjusting the TPS to correct voltage, but the idle seemed a little off still. I took it and got it retuned, as the last tune was very old and outdated. The car made 425 RWHP on a hub dyno, at 15 PSI. Tuned on Apexi Power FC and a GT3582. The car has very little knock on the hand controller, and seems to run fine. The tuner said however he had to advance the timing a massive amount, and believes the ECU is misreading timing, and it is an ECU fault. The timing degrees is at mid to high 20's under full boost, which seems very high. Again, low knock (under 30) on Power FC sensor. It was running similar timing to this for the last 7-8 year apparently, and had a very similar ignition map on the old tune. What's the go with this? How can I get the timing to a 'normal' level? Has the belt slipped? CAS failed? I am concerned the Power FC knock reading is inaccurate and I don't want this car to explode, as Covid tax meant this was not a cheap buy! Cheers all!
  4. Hi all! *** 2K for the lot ***Garage Clearance TimeIf no photos of what I have described, just ask.Just sick of timewasters so take the lot for 2k!6 x Denso 195500-2240 Injectors1 x JR Pod Filter4 x Jecs A46-00 Injectors1 x Nissan RB26 block1 x Universal Catalytic Converter 2 & 3 way – 5.9L / 6000LBS – 4” Round / 11” Long / 3” Ends5 x New CP Piston Rings CPN-340650 x Oil Filters1 x Microtech LT-8s Sequential Fire Ver. 10 ECU2 x Garrett Turbo 466071-6C (stock off an R33)1 x Power Distribution Block 1x0GA into 4x4GA1 x Jecs MAF Mass Air Flow Meter A36-000 N62 / 22680 30P001 x Malpassi Fuel Injection Regulator1 x R33 Twin Turbo Pipe1 x SX Performance Fuel Regulator 154041 x Nissan ECU A11-000 RG3 - S131 x Nissan ECU A11-000 G90 - S131 x Set of 6 CP Carrillo forged Pistons suit RB30/261 x SR20 Crank Shaft 60J401 x SR20 Red Top Block1 x SR20 Black Top Block (non VCT)1 x 52F SR20 BlockBrisbane Location - FREE delivery
  5. Hello! Lucky me, I’m mostly asking this question to see if I should stop driving my car or if it’s okay. As I was bringing the front of my car off the jack, the frame slipped, and my jack pushed my radiation up up up up and cracked my fiberglass hood. It also bent my harmonic balancer pulley on my RB25DET where the power steering belt goes just a little bit, looks more like a scrape but does have a little bit of a bend. Should I be concerned about the pulley? I have driven for a day, did a couple of highway pulls in 3rd, cruises, everything feels okay, maybe a little shaky but it could be my own paranoia! Haha. Thank you!
  6. Hi all, Been a while since i posted in SAU since the sale of my GTR over 12 months ago. Ive decided i no longer need the plates as I sold the car to an interstate buyer. Plates are "RB29" as the engine had a 2.9 stroker in it and thought it would compliment it well. They are a Perspex PPQ plates I believe. I own them outright, so no ongoing fees. I realise they are a bit of a niche plate since there isnt alot of 2.9s kicking around QLD, that doesnt mean im going to give them away. Asking price is $4,000 ONO, reasonable offers will be considered. Low ballers will be ignored. PM or message me 0432528844 Located Enoggera, QLD
  7. I need help with what I should do with my diff it’s a Active LSD with a altessa pump system. It singles and I want to to double what can I do with this diff bleed it, weld it, get it shimmed, block off the altessa system? Idk what to do please help as I want to use my car for drifting / road use
  8. HI Guys need some help got new s13 with rb25det neo motor from some guy having problem with car poping in the exhaust hole time no mater what i do with map and car also not ideling nice what can i do checked everything dont know anymore
  9. Hello! I’ve read multiple post on similar issues as I’m having but following their steps hasn’t brought me much closer to solving my issue it feels like. So, I created a new one! Issue: I installed a brand new alternator after thinking my old alternator was the issue but I’m having the same problems. The alternator is not charging the battery at 14v resulting in constant recharge to be able to drive it for another 5 days before the voltage gets too low that it can be harmful to multiple components. When car is off: 12.43V When car is on: 12.51V Diagnose: With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the negative probe to the negative side of the battery. Then, I measured all the grounds on the alternator while car is on. Negative Side of Alternator alternator ground to block: 0.05V alternator case: 0.05V alternator bracket: 0.04V alternator battery power stud: 2.5V alternator Battery power nut: 2.5V chasis to block where alternator ground is hooked up to: 0.05V Grounds around alternator: 0.05V With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the positive probe to the positive side of the battery. Then, I measured Voltage drop while car is on. Positive Side of Alternator Alternator Battery Power stud: 9. 47V Alternator Battery Power Nut: 9. 47V Rechecked grounds on alternator: 12.42V The 75Amp fuse is receiving 11.8v on the top pin and 0.01V on the bottom. Where I’m At: With the diagnose I’ve done I’ve determined that the grounds have a prettt good connection, the 75Amp fuse is good, but there is a substantial voltage drop of 9.47V. Question: Does anyone know why a voltage drop could occur and how do I fix it? Could the battery be the issue?
  10. For Sale Rb26 block, 87mm bore includes crank, girdle, sump & diff. been sitting awhile so will need a tidy up and abit of a hone. $550 Rb26 Cosworth Jun Pistons & rings 87mm includes stock rods attached $600 Stock rb26 fuel rail and injectors will need a clean and flush $150 rb26 stock dumps $40 3.5 inch adjustable exhaust to suit R32 GTR all wiring and controllers included $250 also have rb30 single cam head and inlet no rocker cover $100 located western sydney 0425896150
  11. I bought one of the crank trigger setups that SAU user 'murrayis' designed and had made in China. Basically you get rid of your annoying and unreliable crank angle sensor. It's most of the way there towards a crank trigger setup which ordinarily you'd pay 2 odd grand for from Ross etc. To get this one working you'd need to buy the 2 sensors and then get your balancer notched. I don't know much else about the technicalities behind it so if interested have a read of this thread rather than ask questions here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452152-open-source-rb-trigger-kit/ Anyway, was a bit of an impulse buy as I was going to build an RB30 but can't be stuffed at the moment. Bought the kit for $420, sell for $300 plus $20 postage.
  12. Hey guys, Iv had my 1998 nissan skyline for about 2 months now and iv been trying to figure out why its running so rich Im getting 200ks A TANK!!!!. It blows black smoke and smells like fuel Iv changed the o2 sensor, spark plugs, maf sensor When the car is off and the engine is warm the car stuggles to turn back on... it turns on but then i have to tap the accelerator to keep it on When im driving and coming to a stop i clutch in and slow down and the rpms drop below 1000 and sometimes even stalls When im speeding up and boost starts to build the car starts stuttering sounds like antilag tbh and i loose power I dont know what it can be and would appreciate any help Thank you
  13. Selling my Built supertech solid converted RB25 Head. Just been serviced, had the following work done: Cleaned Skimmed Camshaft tunnel honed 5 angle valve race seat cut Valve stem seals Ontop of that it has: Big port job 1mm valves Bronze valve guides Titanium retainers Clearanced for big cams Has been welded up for 30 bottom Just needs a set of GTR RB26 cams and she's good to go. Came off my RB34 making 697whp Located Virginia North Brisbane QLD Can arrange post at buyers expense.
  14. I’m looking at purchasing a skyline in the near future (likely an r34 gt-t). My plan is to get the car checked over by a mechanic before purchase. Any suggestions for good RB mechanics who could check it over for me?
  15. Hello fellow rb brothers ! I say rb cause I don’t own a skyline as I am located in the us, but do own the legendary heart of one. It is tucked neatly in my s14 and I love it! I decided to join this forum because of how well you guys in Australia know your rbs and who better to talk to about them then you guys. So I’m excited to join the forum!
  16. G’day. I’m Scotty. Just got myself a Nissan Cefiro and looking at getting into drifting and doing most of my own work. Figured here would be a good place to start. I know some things about some things and nothing about most things. Have; 1989 A31 Cefiro Rb20det (driftpig with pretty much everything wrong with it) 1983 Ke70 with Sr20det, mint condition and ready to be engineered 2003 Mercedes CLK320 2005 Ford Fiesta (missus car)
  17. Hi experts, My timing belt on my 34 GTT slipped mid-freeway driving due to a coolant leak somewhere, and I've bent the valves. My mechanic is still in the process of assessing damage and cost i.e repairable, machining etc but I'm probably up for 1.5 to 3k total. There was mention of valve repair depending on hydraulic or mechanic which was the real dollar figure affecting factor. What advice I'm after is, is it worth spending the money to have the motor repaired that's clocked 212,000k (and obviously plugging the leak) or investing the money in another motor, and if so, another DETNEO if they are easy to find or something else? The car is a daily, I was working towards saving for a little daily shitbox, then this happened. Whats likely the best course of action here? Serious answers would be appreciated, in a bit of a serious situation. I'm no expert, I have a general understanding of my car, which is why I seek the advice of experts such as yourselves. Thanks, Mike
  18. Hey there, So I'm looking at Plus T my partners 25DE R33, now I'm ready to go I just don't know what ecu to run for the conversion. I haven't been able to find anything to do with plus T conversions with autos so I'm just wondering if anyone can shed some light on this for me.
  19. deciding between 200sx or R33 GTS-T or Integra Type R - for roll racing Hi, I drive a 2005 STI that costs about $26,000 which only delivers about 195kw at the wheels, to me i find that its expensive for what it delivers in roll racing. I am thinking to sell it and buy a cheaper car that will be just as fast in roll racing. I want to spend about $15,000 max on a car, I basically want the best bang for my buck that will be good in roll racing. There is so many cars to choose from and i dont know how they perform on the street which is faster in a straight line (not off the line) i can find out numbers on the internet but on the street its a different story when they are raced because weight, power and so many factors need to be considered. So i need advice from people who have street knowledge. The cars im looking for must have steering wheel airbag and they must be legal from factory and not major defects that need engineering certificate etc.. give and take.. cars i have in mind at the moment: - 2001 Honda integra DC2R basic mods costs about $13,000 someone said it beats 200sx and skylines (not sure if this is true) - Honda EP3 not sure how fast they are with basic mods cost about $15,000 - 200SX S14 or S15 not sure how fast they are with basic mods, cost around $15,000 - Skyline R33 GTS-T series 2 cost around $10,000 for a clean one, but i find that they are slow when stock and if i spend about 5k for mods which pushes it to about 230kw atw, BUT i dont know if it will be quicker than the other cars by the way im not going to race it at roll racing but you get the idea what i want the car for. Thanks heaps!
  20. Xtreme HD Organic Clutch Kit, Suit RB Push Type (R32, R33) New (still in box with brochures) Xtreme HD Organic Clutch Kit. Comes with Friction disk, Pressure plate, and Flywheel. hasn't been used, I bought as part of a conversion kit but I need a more aggressive clutch. Costs about $600 new with a flywheel according to google. This is Xtreme's "Stage 1 kit" which is rated to about 250KW max, and it's a sprung centre organic which will be very very VERY easy to drive on. Pickup preferred, can ship at buyer cost but as it's heavy it'll cost a bit to post! Would prefer not to seperate the kit/flywheel! Send me a PM if interested or lowballing!
  21. Where do I run my coolant return line? I've made a quick little sketch that shows what I'm planning on doing with my coolant feed and return line on my Rb25det. There are 2 positions where coolant can go back: 1 and 3. Number 2 is my coolant feed line. I'm planning on blocking my front coolant return line #1 and using the return on the block #3. So the coolant feed will go to the turbo and then it will flow downwards into the block. Is this okay to do? Will it cause overhearing or am I good to go?
  22. Hi looking to doing a 25/30 build I've got the 30 block just looking for a 25 head wanting some tips on how to do it what machining has to be done to make it work?? would appreciate all the help
  23. hi, I have got some r32, r33 engine parts for sale. also some rb30. rb20det crossover pipe x 3 rb25det crossover pipe x 2 rb30 crossover pipe x 2 rb20det stock bov x3 rb25det stock bov x 2 rb25det air compressor bracket has been soda blasted rb25det hicas p/steer pump rb25det non hicas p/steer pump rb30e na camshaft gc rb30 na starter motor x2 (auto and manual are the same) rb20det starter motor rb30 stock cam gear rb25det sII stock cam gears rb25det p/steer reserviour rb25det polution canister rb25det cas bracket rb20det stock dump pipe x 2 rb25det stock dump pipe x 1 rb25det oil pump rb25det oil filter cooler sandwich plate x2 rb20/25det stock exhaust manifold x2 rb20/25det exhaust manifold heat shield holden rb30 rocker covers tridon rb30 thermostat. used for maybe a week max rb25det neo cam covers internal fuel pump r32/r33? jecs rb20/25det thermostat housing/lower hose to block pipe x 3 rb alternator slider bracket x2 rb30na heat shield factory vl turbo A8 pistons and rods x6 rb30na exhaust manifold down to cat p/steer pump brackets neo engine cover bracket rb25det neo rocker covers rb25det bare intake manifold $15 rb30 sump r33 rb25det cooler hoses stock sII rb25det injectors Stock sII rb25det coilpacks Call Jamie. 0433 559 722. pick up from rothwell, brisbane northside 4022
  24. For sale are a set of tomie pon cam cam shafts to suit an rb 20/25. 256 duration 8.5lift. Good upgrade on standard and makes good power. Made 344.1rwkw in my rb25 with a garret 3076 on 15psi. Does not include Cam gears. These cam shafts are in good condition and ready to drop in. $650ono buyer to pay post
  25. FS: rb25/30 Pretty much everything needed to do a dohc turbo 3L conversion. Both head and bottom end good condition, but could definitely use a clean. No conversion processes have been done - block vct oil feed/new pulley, etc Head came off low km r33 s2 (apparently Hyperdrive supplied it) 99% complete - comes with manifolds, cams, covers, fuel rail and injectors etc. Only things I can't see are coilpacks and valley cover. 30 bottom end off patrol with 180k kms. Only taken out for conversion. Head gasket still intact, bores and piston heads look good condition, etc. Comes with all spare parts that are laying near it for them. Bought to do a conversion on my car, but as I have an r34 I wanted a neo head (didn't research properly when buying this) and after adding up all the costs, I will just run the neo in my car as there is nothing wrong with it, for now. Asking $800. Located SOTR, WA.
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