Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'rb'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Automotive
    • Newbie Introductions
    • General Automotive Discussion
    • VR Series - R35 GTR, Juke-R
    • RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
    • VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti
    • Four Door Family
    • Wagoneers
    • Classics (1953-1988)
    • Motorsport
    • Importing Vehicles
  • Modifications & Maintenance
    • Forced Induction Performance
    • Naturally Aspirated Performance
    • Suspension, braking and tyres
    • Drivetrain and transmission
    • General Maintenance
    • Cosmetic, Styling & Respray
    • Car Detailing & Paint Care
    • Car Audio & Electrical
    • Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
    • Fabrication
    • Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups
  • The World & Other Things
    • Music
    • Japan
    • PC & Games Discussion
    • Computer Art
    • Photography
    • Health & Wellbeing
    • National Events
  • SAU Australia
    • New South Wales
    • Victoria
    • Western Australia
    • Queensland
    • Northern Territory
    • South Australia
    • Australian Capital Territory
    • Tasmania
  • SAU New Zealand
    • North Island
    • South Island
  • SAU North America
    • Canada
    • United States
  • Classifieds
    • Trader Ratings
    • For Sale (Business Traders)
    • For Sale (Other Items)
    • For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
    • For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
    • Group Buys
    • Wanted to Buy
  • Site Maintenance
    • Site discussion - including Ideas/Feedback & Bugs

Calendars

  • SAU Calender
  • Administrators Calendar
  • SAU WA Events

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Car(s)


Real Name


Build Thread


Build Thread

Found 90 results

  1. If the page links doesn't work, please manually enter the page number into URL for the corresponding page. This post was updated on: 01/06/2017: This thread is here providing information on our high flowed or built turbos as well as installation and trouble shooting. I'm happy to help or assist with every one who is currently using or looking to purchase our products or services. Brief Introduction about our selves: We are Australian based turbocharger manufacture in Melbourne, We worked with experienced and skilled local engineers to produce our goods and we've been doing that since Oct 2007. We constantly update our production turbochargers and will do our best deliver value to our customers. My name is Stao you can PM or contact 0413457185 if any assistance is required. For our High flowed RB25 Turbos, they comes in 21U or OP6 from factory. The 21U rear housings are smaller can capable of 430HP after high flowing, and larger OP6 are capable of doing around 460HP. PU high flow option is available for any one chasing for 450 to 500HP. They are built with a larger .82 internally gated turbine housing with Nissan OEM bolton pattern, braided oil feeding line and a high pressure actuator. Below is the Rb25det Hitach turbo high flow catalog with few dyno sheets. ATR43SS is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based with OEM dump pipe pattern. This series is specifically engineered for speed with smooth street driving ability. ATR43 is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based comes in .63 and .82 turbine housing with OEM dump pipe pattern. Power is rated from 450HP to 600HP depends on profile chosen. Initial release date: 24/08/2009: We also carry out turbocharger repairs, housing/CHRA modifications and high flow services for All Garrett, HKS, Mitsubishi, Toyota, KKK and Made in China turbochargers. Do feel free to PM / contact us for free assistance. Important Installation Notes for RB2xdet Highflowed and PU units: Sleeve bearing turbochargers requires higher volume of oil flow, are sold with 50cm long braided oil feeding line line that replaces the standard oil restrictor in side factory oil lines, 12mm benjo bolt, and a M12x1.25mm speed flow adaptor. The adaptor goes onto the engine block, benjo bolts goes into the bearing housing with hollow screw supplied. 3x copper washers are required during installation, Which we can supply them for $9 additional or can be purchased at local auto stores. Factory water lines: T3x bearing housing used are 3mms shorter then OEM Hitachi's bearing housings. Means water lines needs to be very slightly bent / forced backwards. Stock actuator: We normally modify the factory actuator's fitting bracket allowing it for a bit of preloading. The actuator bracket bolt wholes has to be filed 5mms towards the turbine housing if not received with the turbo or getting fitted by others. Once done it can be adjust and pre-load ensuring the waste gate is 100% shut. For PU high flowed and ATR43 units with larger Diameter turbine housings, the engine side water line needs to be slightly bent / altered around the housing area. Installing ATR43 turbocharger: ATR43 units generally runs on a round 3inches inlet and round 2 inches out let. It is highly recommended to run a metal intake pipe. How ever if you wish to bolton to stock gears you need: 1x 3inch straight hose, 1x 2.5inch metal sleeve, 1x 2inches 90 degrees hose, 1x 2inches metal sleeve. We can supply all those parts for $100 extra. Tip for a easy installation would be removing the actuator with bracket pre-installation, that would allow lot more room for your tools to reach the manifold studs, and install the actuator and bracket back on after the rest of the installation is complete. Make sure the actuator is preloaded by roughly 3mms. Since larger turbine housings are used, due to larger physical size most of them would be taller then stock pushing the exhaust back by roughly 15mms. Most cars would be running an aftermarket exhausts, depending on the angle of the pre-made dump / front pipe, check the clearance between that to the Air-con water drain pipe. If fouls, simply by pulling it back with zip ties and secure it on the chassis. ATR43Gx/SS2 DIY with photos ATR43SS1xx DIY with photos and video Easy Induction pipes: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-78 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-89 Couple of extremely important factors: 1. After turbo installation do check pressure leaks ( I can make you a simple plug with a hose nipple for $50). Turbo will not perform if there are leaks. 2. Most of our turbos are installed with a 18psi high pressure actuator. by pass all boost controlling devices on test run, Boost gain from EBC based on stock actuator will cause massive boost creep. 3. Make sure the car's got a at least 3inch metal induction pipe with pod filter. Do not run those metal stuffed stock intake pipe. 4. An good exhaust system should restrict no more then 10KWs (My HKS silent power made 3KWs restrictions on a 316rwkws application). So Dyno tune with cat and exhaust dropped, (front pipe only). Do a touch up run with exhaust on after tuning, Get a better exhaust if you see a massive power drop with exhaust. If above procedures are followed you will definitely get the desired power goal. Also people with RB25det R33s. pay attention to those 20 years old valve springs and valves. Mine were all chewed out and worped possibly from valve float. That will act as boost leak, causing lose in power and response. Recommend stronger valve springs. Order, dispatch and mechanic services: All turbochargers are specifically built to suit customer's orders. We need in average 3 to 5 working days to have the order complete. We normally send with Australian post registered post with insurance, which generally takes 3 working days for delivery. We have 2x clients workshops in Melbourne which can carry out the installation service for $200, or onsite service for $250. For tuning, I personally use and recommend Status, and Dr.drift. ECU: For R33 RB25det I've personally used Adaptronic Plugin ECU and highly recommend it. The RRP price on this mode is $1499, We offer $400 discount of total if it is purchased with any of our turbochargers or high flow / rebuild service. Discount also apply for any customers whom is currently owning one of our built or high flowed turbochargers. Please check ECU features, results and discussion in page 113~116.
  2. Hello! Lucky me, I’m mostly asking this question to see if I should stop driving my car or if it’s okay. As I was bringing the front of my car off the jack, the frame slipped, and my jack pushed my radiation up up up up and cracked my fiberglass hood. It also bent my harmonic balancer pulley on my RB25DET where the power steering belt goes just a little bit, looks more like a scrape but does have a little bit of a bend. Should I be concerned about the pulley? I have driven for a day, did a couple of highway pulls in 3rd, cruises, everything feels okay, maybe a little shaky but it could be my own paranoia! Haha. Thank you!
  3. Hello! I’ve read multiple post on similar issues as I’m having but following their steps hasn’t brought me much closer to solving my issue it feels like. So, I created a new one! Issue: I installed a brand new alternator after thinking my old alternator was the issue but I’m having the same problems. The alternator is not charging the battery at 14v resulting in constant recharge to be able to drive it for another 5 days before the voltage gets too low that it can be harmful to multiple components. When car is off: 12.43V When car is on: 12.51V Diagnose: With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the negative probe to the negative side of the battery. Then, I measured all the grounds on the alternator while car is on. Negative Side of Alternator alternator ground to block: 0.05V alternator case: 0.05V alternator bracket: 0.04V alternator battery power stud: 2.5V alternator Battery power nut: 2.5V chasis to block where alternator ground is hooked up to: 0.05V Grounds around alternator: 0.05V With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the positive probe to the positive side of the battery. Then, I measured Voltage drop while car is on. Positive Side of Alternator Alternator Battery Power stud: 9. 47V Alternator Battery Power Nut: 9. 47V Rechecked grounds on alternator: 12.42V The 75Amp fuse is receiving 11.8v on the top pin and 0.01V on the bottom. Where I’m At: With the diagnose I’ve done I’ve determined that the grounds have a prettt good connection, the 75Amp fuse is good, but there is a substantial voltage drop of 9.47V. Question: Does anyone know why a voltage drop could occur and how do I fix it? Could the battery be the issue?
  4. Hello guys! I have r34 sedan wich came with rb20de in it. I swaped my engine and now I have est 300 hp .Unfortunetly I am stuck with stock open diff. Can anybody suggest wich cars locked diff will fit because I can't find parts in my area. I was only able to find one seller wich has this diff he doesn't know from wich car did this diff came from. It just says viscous lsd and and ratio 3.69 . If anybody can help to check will this diff fit my vehicle would be appreciated.
  5. Hi all! *** 2K for the lot ***Garage Clearance TimeIf no photos of what I have described, just ask.Just sick of timewasters so take the lot for 2k!6 x Denso 195500-2240 Injectors1 x JR Pod Filter4 x Jecs A46-00 Injectors1 x Nissan RB26 block1 x Universal Catalytic Converter 2 & 3 way – 5.9L / 6000LBS – 4” Round / 11” Long / 3” Ends5 x New CP Piston Rings CPN-340650 x Oil Filters1 x Microtech LT-8s Sequential Fire Ver. 10 ECU2 x Garrett Turbo 466071-6C (stock off an R33)1 x Power Distribution Block 1x0GA into 4x4GA1 x Jecs MAF Mass Air Flow Meter A36-000 N62 / 22680 30P001 x Malpassi Fuel Injection Regulator1 x R33 Twin Turbo Pipe1 x SX Performance Fuel Regulator 154041 x Nissan ECU A11-000 RG3 - S131 x Nissan ECU A11-000 G90 - S131 x Set of 6 CP Carrillo forged Pistons suit RB30/261 x SR20 Crank Shaft 60J401 x SR20 Red Top Block1 x SR20 Black Top Block (non VCT)1 x 52F SR20 BlockBrisbane Location - FREE delivery
  6. Ken's z31 I wanna go fast build I am Ken from the Seattle area USA. I bought my 1985 300zx GLL non turbo 5 speed in 2011 with the impression it had blown head gaskets which only an RB swap would remedy. I replaced the bad thermostat and drove it for 4 years. Opportunities arose and I purchased a wrecked 87 300zx with what I assumed was a stock rb20 silver top and 5 speed swap for $800 usd. Car had been sitting for 6 years after the owner wrecked.
  7. Hey guys, Iv had my 1998 nissan skyline for about 2 months now and iv been trying to figure out why its running so rich Im getting 200ks A TANK!!!!. It blows black smoke and smells like fuel Iv changed the o2 sensor, spark plugs, maf sensor When the car is off and the engine is warm the car stuggles to turn back on... it turns on but then i have to tap the accelerator to keep it on When im driving and coming to a stop i clutch in and slow down and the rpms drop below 1000 and sometimes even stalls When im speeding up and boost starts to build the car starts stuttering sounds like antilag tbh and i loose power I dont know what it can be and would appreciate any help Thank you
  8. Hello guys, first of all, thank you for stopping by and giving this a view! Okay so, the car ran perfectly after the tune but about 3 days later under full throttle, when it reaches about 6-8k it will start to backfiire about 2-4 pops. Things I've done to try to fix the problem: Changed spark plugs and gaped to the tuners specification of .02 Changed fuel filter Things the car has done to it that relates: 550 Walbro (tuned with the car) Fuel pressure regulator When I changed the spark plugs they all looked exactly the same, which makes me believe that the coils are working fine. But the plugs did look fouled as shown in the picture. I also attached an image showing my gap that was perfectly at .02 without damaging the tip. My fuel pressure is about 38psi on idle. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you!
  9. A31 creditor What ball joints do I need for my rear lower controller arms bought some that were apparently for a cefiro but they don’t fit and can’t find anywhere that’s specifically says for a cefiro can anyone point me in the right direction thanks
  10. Here goes a long shot. Looking to buy Gizzmo launch interface and shift light. Tach recall or DSii-L shift light. Hit me up if you have one that you want to sell. cheers
  11. What sealant do you guys use on welch/core/freeze plugs on your RBs? I'm in the process of building an RB30/25 and I can't seem to find any answers on here. I have bought brand new brass welch plugs. Apparently you have to use a special silicone sealant? I read somewhere on here that someone said loctite 504. Then I read somewhere els on the interweb (on other engines) that someone said permatex no. 3, and stag. LS motors have special ones that they buy from GM i think. I bought a nissan gasket kit and got nissan fluid gasket which i'll be using on the water pump. Do you also use it on the oil pump (+gasket) and oil pan?
  12. Hi all, I want to know what are some good engine machinists that you guys have gone to get work done on your RBs. I'm currently building a RB30/25DET Neo and I want a machinist that has experience and knowledge in RB engines. Thanks.
  13. Good day buddies.... So i have recently installed some Tomei Poncams(Intake 260 9.15 and Exhaust 262 9.15 lift) for my engine (RB25DET NEO).... After they were installed i never checked the shim clearance(p.s shims are above bucket type), due to it being drop in cams and my buddy who installed them never had to re-shim. Unfortunately after i started the car i heard a ticking noise from the back of the head and then investigated the reason of the noise. For a second i taught it was the body oil used(20w50) and i live in the caribbean. So i change the oil to 10w50 and the noise reduce a bit but was still there... When i pop the cam cover and check the clearances this was the results. *Exhaust * Numbers are in "thou" reading 1.0.019 2.0.019 3.0.019 4.0.019 5.0.020 6.0.020 7.0.020 8.0.020 9.0.020 10.0.20 11.0.20 + 0.011 12.0.018 tight or 0.017 AS Tomei recommend there clearances to be .018 thou mine reads close to Nissan specs and never did any head work.... but for when i checked the clearance on valve #11 and #12 i notice that was the problem.... What can cause that such big clearance #11 and tight clearance on #12 ....Btw this is a stock head and never done any head work as my goal was to just see how long the engine can last....
  14. Hey all, Decided i would knock this up to help people ID what cylinder head they have. The list is mostly complete and i should have it finalized in the next day or two. If people could cross check with what they have on their vehicles that would be awesome. The casting ID is located somewhere around cylinder 1 and is ia 3 number/digit code. Attatched is a pic of an RB20DET so you can see the casting number. Cheers
  15. Selling my Built supertech solid converted RB25 Head. Just been serviced, had the following work done: Cleaned Skimmed Camshaft tunnel honed 5 angle valve race seat cut Valve stem seals Ontop of that it has: Big port job 1mm valves Bronze valve guides Titanium retainers Clearanced for big cams Has been welded up for 30 bottom Just needs a set of GTR RB26 cams and she's good to go. Came off my RB34 making 697whp Located Virginia North Brisbane QLD Can arrange post at buyers expense.
  16. Hi all, Been a while since i posted in SAU since the sale of my GTR over 12 months ago. Ive decided i no longer need the plates as I sold the car to an interstate buyer. Plates are "RB29" as the engine had a 2.9 stroker in it and thought it would compliment it well. They are a Perspex PPQ plates I believe. I own them outright, so no ongoing fees. I realise they are a bit of a niche plate since there isnt alot of 2.9s kicking around QLD, that doesnt mean im going to give them away. Asking price is $4,000 ONO, reasonable offers will be considered. Low ballers will be ignored. PM or message me 0432528844 Located Enoggera, QLD
  17. Just bought this rb25 swapped 240sx (96’) it ran just fine. Was driving it home when the battery moved and leaked acid (in the trunk). I ended up buying a new battery and 4gage wire and new connectors. Reworked the battery safely to the trunk. Wanted to make sure the car would start and it did no problem. Since I had trim and stuff up I wanted to recarpet the car as it looked like some cats gave birth in the car. I did so and also installed gauges and a new radio. Finally went to start the car this morning after everything was done and all it does is crank won’t start please help!
  18. I’m looking at purchasing a skyline in the near future (likely an r34 gt-t). My plan is to get the car checked over by a mechanic before purchase. Any suggestions for good RB mechanics who could check it over for me?
  19. note: I am advertising this on behalf of someone else FOR SALE: Link Plus ECU in unused condition This ECU suits twin cam RB heads and is plug-in. What you will receive: USB data cable Wiring Loom MAP Sensor Water temp sensor Adapter box Air temp sensor Installation manual The ECU itself Some capabilities of this ECU: Variable fuel pump speed and relay control Interfaces with engine coolant temperature, fuel temperature and intake air temperature Boost control solenoid compatibility Variable Valve Timing control A/C fan control Launch Control Advanced fuel injector control Intercooler water spray, vehicle speed and shift light capability, there are too many features to list here! $2,500 Or Best Offer, Located in Bendigo, Victoria Please don't hesitate to enquire for more information or pictures, the seller can be reached on the following phone number: 0417 513 871
  20. Hey everyone, I recently discovered that my camshaft had been over tighten when installing the head back on my motor. This caused the camshaft to bind and SNAP. Anyway, so now the front cam cradle is roughly .003in lower than the rest of the head after machining the scratches. So now I need a new head, as I looked online, I seemed to find a lot of RB25DET Neo heads but no series 1 or series 2 heads. Is it possible to switch everything over to the neo head and bolt it up to a series 1 block? If not, does anyone have a good condition series 1 or 2 head for sale? Thank you!
  21. Hi all, was changing my oil pressure sensor and broke the nipple on this fine can of emptiness last night, has 2 vac lines going to it... located under the intake runner/plenum thingy lol. Thanks
  22. Hello fellow rb brothers ! I say rb cause I don’t own a skyline as I am located in the us, but do own the legendary heart of one. It is tucked neatly in my s14 and I love it! I decided to join this forum because of how well you guys in Australia know your rbs and who better to talk to about them then you guys. So I’m excited to join the forum!
  23. So I have recently bought a 30det r32 skyline, but the problem I'm having Is that with the big air intake, the 500 hp fuel pump, the 1000cc injectors, the good ecu, along side the giant fkn garrett turbo that's rated upto 800bhp pushing at 18psi with a nistune set at a 7000rpm limit is only putting out 240kw. Sure it has a good tourqe curve with the 3L block with a 25de head but shouldn't bottom line bhp be more? I'll post some photos of work done on it and photos of engine but please tell me how I can get this to the 400 kw animal it should be
  24. G’day. I’m Scotty. Just got myself a Nissan Cefiro and looking at getting into drifting and doing most of my own work. Figured here would be a good place to start. I know some things about some things and nothing about most things. Have; 1989 A31 Cefiro Rb20det (driftpig with pretty much everything wrong with it) 1983 Ke70 with Sr20det, mint condition and ready to be engineered 2003 Mercedes CLK320 2005 Ford Fiesta (missus car)
  25. Hi experts, My timing belt on my 34 GTT slipped mid-freeway driving due to a coolant leak somewhere, and I've bent the valves. My mechanic is still in the process of assessing damage and cost i.e repairable, machining etc but I'm probably up for 1.5 to 3k total. There was mention of valve repair depending on hydraulic or mechanic which was the real dollar figure affecting factor. What advice I'm after is, is it worth spending the money to have the motor repaired that's clocked 212,000k (and obviously plugging the leak) or investing the money in another motor, and if so, another DETNEO if they are easy to find or something else? The car is a daily, I was working towards saving for a little daily shitbox, then this happened. Whats likely the best course of action here? Serious answers would be appreciated, in a bit of a serious situation. I'm no expert, I have a general understanding of my car, which is why I seek the advice of experts such as yourselves. Thanks, Mike
×
×
  • Create New...