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If the page links doesn't work, please manually enter the page number into URL for the corresponding page. This post was updated on: 01/06/2017: This thread is here providing information on our high flowed or built turbos as well as installation and trouble shooting. I'm happy to help or assist with every one who is currently using or looking to purchase our products or services. Brief Introduction about our selves: We are Australian based turbocharger manufacture in Melbourne, We worked with experienced and skilled local engineers to produce our goods and we've been doing that since Oct 2007. We constantly update our production turbochargers and will do our best deliver value to our customers. My name is Stao you can PM or contact 0413457185 if any assistance is required. For our High flowed RB25 Turbos, they comes in 21U or OP6 from factory. The 21U rear housings are smaller can capable of 430HP after high flowing, and larger OP6 are capable of doing around 460HP. PU high flow option is available for any one chasing for 450 to 500HP. They are built with a larger .82 internally gated turbine housing with Nissan OEM bolton pattern, braided oil feeding line and a high pressure actuator. Below is the Rb25det Hitach turbo high flow catalog with few dyno sheets. ATR43SS is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based with OEM dump pipe pattern. This series is specifically engineered for speed with smooth street driving ability. ATR43 is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based comes in .63 and .82 turbine housing with OEM dump pipe pattern. Power is rated from 450HP to 600HP depends on profile chosen. Initial release date: 24/08/2009: We also carry out turbocharger repairs, housing/CHRA modifications and high flow services for All Garrett, HKS, Mitsubishi, Toyota, KKK and Made in China turbochargers. Do feel free to PM / contact us for free assistance. Check (if you live in usa): Costco Weekly Ad, or Supercheap Auto Catalogue. Important Installation Notes for RB2xdet Highflowed and PU units: Sleeve bearing turbochargers requires higher volume of oil flow, are sold with 50cm long braided oil feeding line line that replaces the standard oil restrictor in side factory oil lines, 12mm benjo bolt, and a M12x1.25mm speed flow adaptor. The adaptor goes onto the engine block, benjo bolts goes into the bearing housing with hollow screw supplied. 3x copper washers are required during installation, Which we can supply them for $9 additional or can be purchased at local auto stores. Factory water lines: T3x bearing housing used are 3mms shorter then OEM Hitachi's bearing housings. Means water lines needs to be very slightly bent / forced backwards. Stock actuator: We normally modify the factory actuator's fitting bracket allowing it for a bit of preloading. The actuator bracket bolt wholes has to be filed 5mms towards the turbine housing if not received with the turbo or getting fitted by others. Once done it can be adjust and pre-load ensuring the waste gate is 100% shut. For PU high flowed and ATR43 units with larger Diameter turbine housings, the engine side water line needs to be slightly bent / altered around the housing area. Installing ATR43 turbocharger: ATR43 units generally runs on a round 3inches inlet and round 2 inches out let. It is highly recommended to run a metal intake pipe. How ever if you wish to bolton to stock gears you need: 1x 3inch straight hose, 1x 2.5inch metal sleeve, 1x 2inches 90 degrees hose, 1x 2inches metal sleeve. We can supply all those parts for $100 extra. Tip for a easy installation would be removing the actuator with bracket pre-installation, that would allow lot more room for your tools to reach the manifold studs, and install the actuator and bracket back on after the rest of the installation is complete. Make sure the actuator is preloaded by roughly 3mms. Since larger turbine housings are used, due to larger physical size most of them would be taller then stock pushing the exhaust back by roughly 15mms. Most cars would be running an aftermarket exhausts, depending on the angle of the pre-made dump / front pipe, check the clearance between that to the Air-con water drain pipe. If fouls, simply by pulling it back with zip ties and secure it on the chassis. ATR43Gx/SS2 DIY with photos ATR43SS1xx DIY with photos and video Easy Induction pipes: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-78 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-89 Couple of extremely important factors: 1. After turbo installation do check pressure leaks ( I can make you a simple plug with a hose nipple for $50). Turbo will not perform if there are leaks. 2. Most of our turbos are installed with a 18psi high pressure actuator. by pass all boost controlling devices on test run, Boost gain from EBC based on stock actuator will cause massive boost creep. 3. Make sure the car's got a at least 3inch metal induction pipe with pod filter. Do not run those metal stuffed stock intake pipe. 4. An good exhaust system should restrict no more then 10KWs (My HKS silent power made 3KWs restrictions on a 316rwkws application). So Dyno tune with cat and exhaust dropped, (front pipe only). Do a touch up run with exhaust on after tuning, Get a better exhaust if you see a massive power drop with exhaust. If above procedures are followed you will definitely get the desired power goal. Also people with RB25det R33s. pay attention to those 20 years old valve springs and valves. Mine were all chewed out and worped possibly from valve float. That will act as boost leak, causing lose in power and response. Recommend stronger valve springs. Order, dispatch and mechanic services: All turbochargers are specifically built to suit customer's orders. We need in average 3 to 5 working days to have the order complete. We normally send with Australian post registered post with insurance, which generally takes 3 working days for delivery. We have 2x clients workshops in Melbourne which can carry out the installation service for $200, or onsite service for $250. For tuning, I personally use and recommend Status, and Dr.drift. ECU: For R33 RB25det I've personally used Adaptronic Plugin ECU and highly recommend it. The RRP price on this mode is $1499, We offer $400 discount of total if it is purchased with any of our turbochargers or high flow / rebuild service. Discount also apply for any customers whom is currently owning one of our built or high flowed turbochargers. Please check ECU features, results and discussion in page 113~116.

Hey all, whatever code does this mean it does a short flash then ecu stays on

Hi all, I have a brand new gold sard gtr fuel rail up for grabs. Suit 11mm injectors. $200 Has been fitted to my car but car has never run with it on , comes with -6 speedflow fittings too. Cheers

i am regretfuly selling my 97 r33 skyline, it is turbo manual. i am a mechanic, so car has been serviced religiously every 5,000km im selling due to financial dificulty. car is a great platform for modifying car comes with: - 3.5inch catback exaust - electronic boost controller - 18inch rims with rw tyres - 2din dvd screen - aftermarket BOV - intercooler (not fitted) - rego untill jan 2013 - no rwc but could be provided for an aditional price im chasing $9,000 O.N.O

WTB low km rb20det to go into streeter, must be complete. Preferably in Adelaide SA.

Best mods for a rb25de Hey guys, i just bought a r34 gt and i need more power, i want to make around the 170-180kw mark. i don't know what to do first. i can't turbo the car but still want to make some decent power. what should i do. let me know the car has already got a shitty cat back exhaust on it. any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

RB clutch fan Viscous coupling Hi all I'm after a second hand factory Nissan viscous coupling, can be off an R32, R33 or R34. I'm located in ACT 2611 but am happy to pay postage. Thanks!

WTB RB30 long/short block Hello everyone, I'm currently in the market for an RB30 short or long block. modified or stock. Series 2 or an A8 preferred but not a must. Paypal ready. My only problem is I live overseas and would need to have it shipped to a freight forwarder (at my expense of course) Let me know what you guys got. Regards, Joe R

Does anybody have a full set of replacement rubbers for a 32 gtr they'd be willing to sell for a future respray, atm looking for all genuine, or if anyone has any leads on someone with a full set ect let me know. Cheers, Alex.

Looking for a Clean r32 GTR, body, rails, paint, rubbers ect must be in good condition, motor doesn't matter as much. anyone with a clean example matching that description leave a comment below Cheers, Alex.

Hello, I am looking for RB30 short block, my block got damaged and need a new set. I would like to buy from 1 -4 blocks. please let me know what you have. I would also like to have series 2 but doesn't have to be. thanks in advance

WTB: RB26DETT out of an R33 or a front cut of an R33 GTR Will probably need to be able to post as I live in Portland Victoria, willing to travel if need be

Here goes a long shot. Looking to buy Gizzmo launch interface and shift light. Tach recall or DSii-L shift light. Hit me up if you have one that you want to sell. cheers

Hi all, I want to know what are some good engine machinists that you guys have gone to get work done on your RBs. I'm currently building a RB30/25DET Neo and I want a machinist that has experience and knowledge in RB engines. Thanks.

I’m looking at purchasing a skyline in the near future (likely an r34 gt-t). My plan is to get the car checked over by a mechanic before purchase. Any suggestions for good RB mechanics who could check it over for me?

Hi guys, I have a series 1 r33 running spitfire coils, 1250cc injectors, walbro 460 fuel pump, gtx3076r and an Apexi fc. The car DOESNT struggle on start up/Idle, but splutters and struggles to accelerate. After 15mins or so of driving, the car suddenly runs as normal and runs like a champ. The problem all started within one day- I drove the car in the morning and it ran fine and then came back to it 2 hours after of parking and the problem started. Hasn't gotten worse or any better. I have checked the spark plugs, they all look fine. Is it a coilpack problem? Ecu problem? Sensor problem? As it runs like shit until normal engine temp. Thanks a a million guys, Any help is much appreciated.

Gidday. As suggested I require some help in working out my comp ration. I have researched the heck out of this subject and have found some really good posts with very VERY detailed information and processes in order to a quote this information. But nothing about how to adjust the ratio. For instance from what I have found the RB25DET S2 Came out with a 9.0:1 Ratio from factory also here are some other specs I have found for a stock RB25DET. SIZES ARE IN MM AND ALL FACTORY. BORE SIZE : 86.0MM STROKE : 71.7MM DECK HEIGHT : 188.5MM HEAD CC : 66.5MM COMP HEIGHT : 31.5MM So here is my information RB25DET S2 Block. Decked 10 thou Rb25det S2 Head. Deckedb10 thou Bores. +20 thou Stroke (Stock) 71.7mm I am looking for between 8.5:1 to 8.8 - 9.0:1 I am not as smart as some and cannot seem to figure this calculation method out. The instructions and walk throughs I have seem are really detailed but a little TO detailed to the stage where I am lost and it all starts looking like the matrix wall paper screen saver. So if someone could help me understand and to figure out what pistons I should her what Head gasket and so I will be forever in your debt. I had my rb25det with full stock internals up to 444.4 RWHP @ 19.5 @ 19.5PSI Of boost and snapped piston 1-s Ring Landings. Thank You In Advance.

Hi looking to doing a 25/30 build I've got the 30 block just looking for a 25 head wanting some tips on how to do it what machining has to be done to make it work?? would appreciate all the help

Where do I run my coolant return line? I've made a quick little sketch that shows what I'm planning on doing with my coolant feed and return line on my Rb25det. There are 2 positions where coolant can go back: 1 and 3. Number 2 is my coolant feed line. I'm planning on blocking my front coolant return line #1 and using the return on the block #3. So the coolant feed will go to the turbo and then it will flow downwards into the block. Is this okay to do? Will it cause overhearing or am I good to go?

Need help with R33 S1 GTST Hey guys, I've just got myself a Skyline R33 S1 GTST not too long ago and there's a weird start after i left the car for 1 day. The video I've attached will tell my story. Any help would be much appreciated. I did try searching about the problem and all the videos I've watched doesn't seem the same as my problem. I know that the start motor needs to be fixed/replaced. I think I've found a post regarding the clicking noise behind the dash too. Its just the weird idle before the normal one i need help with. The car is also pretty much stock except for the Greddy Profec 2 boost controller, pod filter and a muffler delete. In case these would be the cause of the problem. VID_20170430_155210.mp4

Hi all This should be really be in "do you know what grinds my gears" Every time I go to the auto shop all I see is that every brand claims to be the best, and that really really I mean really gets up my skin..... To the point I wanted to buy the oil and start doing testing... myself at own cost but that’s expensive 1. test I will one day do is a heat test... take 0.25ltr of oil put on lab stove at 300c see how long it take to turn into sludge test are very expensive so that’s why oil company do them but no one shows their Competitors showing a test thats said our oil gives you 20hp extra then competitor 1 competitor 2 or 3 to me comp1 could be home brand olive oil and comp2 coles brand motor oil you get me anyway I gotta cool down just writing this made me have 180 over 120 blood pressure Enjoy the link. taken me a long time to find, some oils are outdated but it’s the best i got if you have any independent tests that you got your sticky hands on please share http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

RB20DET 1/4 mile World Record? Anyone know the record for an RB20det powered vehicle? I recently ran 10.67 1/4 mile in my RB20 powered rx-7. I would have to assume an 8 or 9 sec car. Is this documented?

G’day. I’m Scotty. Just got myself a Nissan Cefiro and looking at getting into drifting and doing most of my own work. Figured here would be a good place to start. I know some things about some things and nothing about most things. Have; 1989 A31 Cefiro Rb20det (driftpig with pretty much everything wrong with it) 1983 Ke70 with Sr20det, mint condition and ready to be engineered 2003 Mercedes CLK320 2005 Ford Fiesta (missus car)

Hi Guys, Owned my first skyline for 4 months now, Its an r32 gts-t with an rb20det (all stock) with 206xxxkm's on it. Since the most recent oil change, it's developed an engine clatter from around 3000rpm and up. Most noticeable when I rev it to 3000, hold it there, and pulse it up and down from 2800 to 3200, clatter is loudest on liftoff, but not sure if thats just because there are less noises to compete with. I got out the mechanics stethoscope and hunted around, the noises seem to be coming from the top end, but I cant seem to pin point it any better than that. the oil I put in was the same as the oil I took out (Shell HX7 10W40 - was crazy cheap on special for fathers day haha) Wondering if anybody has had a similar problem, from reading around I have read some similar but not quite the same stories where people said it was blocked oil galleries, or big end bearing going (hope not!!) Something of note - the noise doesnt happen at all when its cold to half warmed up, doesnt develop til its bene running enough to be properly warmed up and hot. - maybe I can get away with a thicker oil to solve the problem? seems a bit bandaidish.. Anybody have any suggestions for me?

RB25DET is burning oil What's up, I am having trouble diagnosing what is causing my rb25det to burn oil. The engine is in a 240sx RHD, the following are the most critical parts of my setup: Great condition GTX3076R Garrett Turbo, new 740cc injectors, new head gasket, Fully built valves, new top mount manifold, new coolant/oil lines, new pistons, bored cylinders, 44mm wastegate, recirculating bov Deleted pcv system due to the rb26det valve cover conversion but I am atmospherically venting from the valve cover Oil weight is 10w-30 synthetic The car was running fine 6 months ago when I got the engine finally running but now it starts smoking as soon as I start it, cold or hot, the piece of misery will start smoking blue smoke. It will smoke as you start it, as you idle, as you accelerate, and especially if you rev it high. There is no oil in the turbo inlet. Please help me figure this out, thanks!