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Found 130 results

  1. So my car is completely stripped down now, shell is off to paint, and engine is at the machine shop for a refresh. Once back in my hands, the fun starts of putting her back together. Follow along!
  2. I’m looking to install my alarm into my 32 gtst and need more information about the ignition harness under the dash. I’m just wondering does anyone has a diagram / wiring table stating colours of each wire and it’s use. I can spend the time to identify them, it would just save me time if someone had already done it or knows where to source diagrams etc. thanks 👍
  3. Hey everyone, I recently started having a problem with my Laurel where after a random amount of time driving, the car will start bucking and hesistating badly at all RPMs. If I put the clutch in or go into neutral while this is happening the idle hunts up and down between 1-2k and then stalls. When it stalls the car will not crank at all, but will start back up if I bump start it. By the time I got it home it fired right up with the key again until it eventually stalled. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm currently stumped.
  4. Hello, So at my last track day a couple weeks ago everything was going fine but after a couple sessions all of a sudden when i was pulling into the paddock, my car would not idle at all and had horrible misses below 2k rpm. Everywhere else in the rev range it ran fine an did not break up. Now I've done some testing so I went with the simple stuff first: plugs gapped right, r8 coils(deletes the ignitor). That did nothing. So then i replaced my coolant temp sensor and checked tps voltage, that fixed the idle issue. So I went to check my timing. With the light the first time i checked the marks were so far past advanced that it would have been blown up by now, so I was confused and shut the car off to have a drink. Came back and started it up again to look and now it was a little past the last mark at 30* degrees and was able to get it to 20, with the cas retarded almost all the way it allowed me too. I then went for a test drive and the car ran fine but when pulling it out of the driveway it died. I pulled it in to check the timing and it was the same at 20*. So i went to drive again and got out on the road and got on it, it reved up fine and built boost with no missing, but felt like it had legitimately zero power, and off throttle it gurgled a bit. I replaced my cas and that changed nothing. I'm stumbled at this point. Any pointers?? Thanks for any help.
  5. What is the numbers on the side of a block for rb20det ? Just trying to work out if it’s a plus t or a det and same for the head ? Anyone know
  6. Hi guys, I'm trying to find an engine for my R32 skyline gtst I'm after a stock(ish) RB20det silvertop for around $1000.
  7. Daymo's R32 GTS-T Hey everyone, I thought i'd start a build thread, just so i can keep a log of everything i'm going to do to the car, and keep track of how much i'll no doubt spend on it in the next few years. I'll give a brief introduction, i'm from the U.K. but currently on a sponsorship with a goal of getting permanent residency further down the line, located in Griffith NSW, and there isnt a great deal to do here so im gonna spend my time and money on a car ive always wanted, an R32 skyline! I'm no stranger to nissans, i had a 1997 Nissan Primera GTSE, not sure if you get them over here as i definitely haven't seen one on my travels! She had a few tasteful mods:- Full Stainless Exhaust with Powerflow Backbox,Hotshot 4-2-1 Manifold,Koni Shocks and Springs,Uprated ECU (Datsek Piggyback System)Hotshot Cold Air Intake,Ported and Polished Head,JWT-S3-Cams,Short Shifter, Plasma Dials, Nissan VZR Splitter, JDM Headlights, Yellow Foglights The primera was a great car to drive, but it did get boring in the end, being NA it just needed that extra kick from a turbo but i never got round to doing the conversion. Anyway, i'll get onto the skyline now, i bought it in December 2016, its a Type-M Manual (was an auto) im still discovering little mods here and there, as the sales advert wasn't the best, i have a dyno print out for 230kW/308bhp and i know it has a kinuwaga TD06-20G but apart from that im unsure. (maybe you guys can spot some mods and i'll keep updating the list!!) Mods:- Engine:- Kinuwaga TD06-20G Tial 45mm Wastegate - did have a screamer pipe but the previous owner had this welded up when he was defected. Forward Facing Plenum Oil Catch Can Spitfire Coils 3 or 3.5" Full Stainless HKS Pod Filter (hidden underneath some awful chequer plate) Haltech Platinum ECU FMIC 14 Row Oil Cooler + Filter Relocation Kit RB20 Manual Gearbox Conversion Suspension & Wheels:- BC Racing Coilovers Lenso D1R's - 17x9.5 Fronts - 17x10 Rears Just Jap Lower Control Arms Front and Rear Exterior:- Carbon Fibre Bonnet - Unsure of brand GTR Grill Black Indicators Aero mirrors, GTR Front Bumper, GTR Spoiler Interior:- Momo Deep Dish Steering Wheel Drift Button Double Din Headunit Oil pressure, boost gauge, A/F Gauge and here are a few pictures from the day i picked her up, I got defected pretty much two days into owning it for being too low, so raised it up a touch (25mm at the front and 30mm at the rear). i then decided i hated the vinyl wrap as it was bubbling in places and pretty poorly done. i was hoping the paint was going to be okay underneath the wrap, but with the wrap being on for a good few years (the previous owner had the car 18 months, and he reckoned it had been on a while when he first bought it) this was not the case. So this is where im currently at now, ive taken all the wrap off, im currently in the process of buffing all the left over glue off the car with prepsol, and getting her ready for paint. i bought a GTR-ST front bumper from kmak aero, did a little bit of modification to the slam panel or "reo" as you call it over here. Future plans are to tidy up the bodywork, add a few subtle mods, change the wheels and sort the ridiculous camber out on the front, then try and figure out how to get an rb25/30 engineered in here, its quite frustrating as we don't have all the engineering hoops to jump through in the UK, we can literally do what we want as long as it passes an emissions test! i'll try and keep the updates frequent!! Cheers, Daymo
  8. WTB: RB20DET MOTOR ASAP I need an rb20det motor asap as mine let go on the dyno yesterday. I am just wanting the motor alone but am happy to purchase a complete set up if need be. 0432832497
  9. im after a complete rb20det head silver/gold top from an r32 preferrably in the gold coast/brisbane area contact me either by mobile or message mobile:0419726930
  10. Hi I'm new to this forum so I may not be posting this in the right section.. basically one of my injectors on my rb20det is leaking fuel everywhere. I got a bit carried away and ordered 6 new 370cc bosch injectors (side-feed), without doing my research. From what I understand rb20's are top-feed injectors, and the rb25s are side-feed. Will I be able to mount a standard r33 rb25det fuel rail with the new injectors onto my rb20? Or will that open up a can of worms?
  11. Posted this in the classifieds for my brother, just posting it here in the local section if any are interested. PM me. Cheers http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/408426-fs-s13-silvia-with-rb20det-conversion/
  12. The time has come to sell my r32 and i still have a gates rb20det timing belt kit laying around that was never fitted. The kit is brand spanking new. I am after $150 for it pickup is in the southern suburbs of Adelaide ( Happy Valley ) Contact me on either here or mobile ( 0420278922 ). I would prefer mobile but either one is fine.
  13. As the title suggests i am looking for a either stock or aftermarket exhaust camshaft for a r32 rb20det engine, needs to have the locator pin intact in the end of camshaft for alignment to the CAS, I am located up in Darwin Northern Territory so will need someone willing to post, Of course i will cover postage costs. Otherwise if needed i will buy a set of 262degree 9.5mm lift camshafts if someone is selling a set cheap.
  14. c33 Laurel | Islander Newbie Hey everyone, my name is Richard and i have been a long time browser on this site. I finally decided to create an account and become a part of the community. I am from the island of Trinidad which is located in the West Indies. My project is a Nissan c33 Laurel with a rb20det swap out of a r32 skyline. Originally it was supposed to be my drift project but plans have since changed and now it'll be my daily.
  15. So I am a proud owner of a 1990 Nissan R32 GTS4T 4 door RB20DET Auto just under 115,000kms and it has had the 100,000km service completed only couple of months ago (love manual but I needed a 4 door and this was the only one available that was also Turbo, the auto in this config is better than the manual imo as no loss of boost going through gears but sucks at take off but I can get it to drift, though to continue to link up drifts really need to power on and swing the car side to side to keep it loose and shift between 1st and second and ride that boost, really driving the car hard to drift a 4wd and would benefit from an increase in PSI). It has been looked over by the RWC mechanic and Pedders, somethings were found by both but Pedders found a few more. They really are the suspension specialists. So I need the following parts to complete RWC and just to bring the car to a good mechanically sound level. The links are just what I have found on ebay and am open to advise and other products. Front upper control arms with new bushes fitted was considering a pair of these http://cgi.ebay.com....#ht_3816wt_1163 I have been quoted $150 for a reconditioned pair of stock ones. These are the dimensions, are they suitable for the GTS4T? I thought $160 for pair shipping included wasn't bad. Don't want to pull off stock ones to check dimensions if I don't have too as I still need the car to get around in. Inner and Outer CV boots are worn and the grease is all gone and the joints have been damaged so are clicking I have been advise to change the complete CV shaft left and right. So both left and right front CV shafts, joints and boots required. Are these what I need? Rear tie rod end bushes (They look like a knuckle setup, they are the ones out at the wheel you can see it from looking under and behind the wheels) I will take some pictures and post. All discs need machining due to being worn, rusty & glazed but I have been told these are lipped and cannot be machined so looking to upgrade to a slotted vented pair thinking rears can stay stock style but need new discs. Front http://www.ebay.com....9#ht_632wt_1163 Rear http://www.ebay.com....9#ht_500wt_1180 not sure if slotted really needed for rears. Left hand front shock very firm near seized both front shockers advised to be changed. What is a good value for money pair? Left hand top shock mount requires replacing due to shock failure it has been taking the brunt of the absorption, should I change left and right or just the left damaged one is ok? If just left I am looking for stock one if both I saw these http://www.ebay.com....a#ht_500wt_1180 Front D Bushes worn need replacement (sway bar mount bushes) is this a set that will fix this? http://www.ebay.com....4#ht_1679wt_960 Light play in steering rack it PASSED for Pedders and RWC mechanic but they said should be looked at in the next 6 months, I think it is fine but wondering what a reco one will cost and is a 2WD rack different to a 4WD rack? Radiator hoses are hard and crunchy and need to be replaced. Found this http://www.ebay.com....#ht_1401wt_1163 are they correct ones. I need a Left dash heater air vent The CENTER GEAR CONSOLE SURROUND is cracked,pitted,melted by cigarette burn and chipped so was looking at this, seems pricey though, but the ad mentions more durable than stock one. http://www.ebay.com....#ht_1514wt_1163 Hoses behind radiator, in front of motor (oil cooler pipes) need new clamps. Hoses are slightly perished but not the cause of leaking it is the clamps that are at fault for leaking but they recommend changing hoses and clamps at same time and advised only need less than 1.5mtr of hosing to do, what is the dimension of the pipe that is required? I can pick up a length from super cheap unless there is a highly recommended alternative product. Rear under side has a little surface rust and they recommend treating it with fish oil anyone concur? Found this, is it needed? http://www.ebay.com....#ht_2406wt_1163 So supply of parts if any are for sale would be awesome but peoples advice both on parts choice, compatibility and pricing would be appreciated.
  16. Hey guys I have a excellent condition r32 gtst stock air box for sale it doesn't come with a filter but has both parts of the snorkel included. pickup from algester 4115 or will post at buyers cost... I cant seem to upload pic but can sms/email on request price - $150 Cheers
  17. Hey everyone my name is Ali and I've referred to these forums loads over the years but never actually made an account. Seeing as i'll be using the forums more in the coming months, heres my intro. As a kid I got into skylines when both parents had RBs. Dad had a R34 4 Door but mum had imported a R33 GT25T with very minimal mods coming off the boat when I was about 7. I drive a 1989 GTST Coupe with the usual bells & whistles myself.
  18. I obtained a recoed head that has been skimmed.my question I,s how to tell what the minimum thickness is,where do I measure it from and will I need a thicker head gasket.cheers
  19. Located VIC 3978. $9500. Price negotiable. Selling due to need for 4x4 for work related reasons and to be completely honest, all the car needs is a financially stable owner. Due to a string of bad luck I've been unable to maintain employment for more than ~ 4 months at a time since purchasing the vehicle. More pics @ instagram.com/cevlol 1993 Series 2 GTS4 sedan, white. Engine: 152xxx K's (speedo swapped out, original one f**ked). Fairly stock RB20DET Turbosmart boost controller. Remapped stock ECU. 42mm Alloy Radiator. Custom FMIC w/ Ford core, shorter piping, more spool w/ brand new Proflow joiners + brand new hose clamps. No BOV, can plumb one in with silicone T piece for RWC. New water pump less than 7k's old. Full 3" turbo back w/ 3" dump/front pipe, stainless steel exhaust w/ high-flow cat & rear oval muffler. Note is 1hunnid. Brand new genuine Nissan oil filter, less than 1000k's ago. Brand new Motul Chrono Ether 300V 10W40 motor oil, doesn't need to be replaced for 9,000k's. Brand new BCPR6ES plugs, less than 1000k's ago. Interior: Brand new R34 V-Spec Aluminium Pedal set. Brand new Superior Auto Creative Carbon shift & handbrake boots. Brand new Nissan shift knob. Factory Series 2 GTST/GTS4 seats in very good condition. Factory GTST/GTS4 steering wheel. Exterior: Brand new R32 GTR N1 front bar w/ eBay FRP vents. Brand new R32 GTR N1 front reo. Brand new Bosch Aerotwin Flat Wiper Blades. VGC genuine R32 GTR front lip, could use respray but otherwise perfect cond.Average condition R32 GTR wing FRP, minor hole one side. Driveline: R32 GTR rear shocks. R32 GTS4 factory shocks. HICAS lock bar / eliminator kit. NISMO strut brace. Brand new Exedy HD Organic clutch, freshly machined stock flywheel, less than 1000k's old. Penrite full synth in box atm. ATF in transfer case/ATTESSA. Custom 4WD/RWD toggle switch for sliding fun, don't use it often to be honest. Car stays in 4WD most of time. Brand new Nismo R32 GTR slave cylinder. Brand new HFM R32 master cylinder. 40% RWC tyres on R33 stockies. Misc: $1000 alarm system. Remote central locking, immobilizer + alarm. Receipts from myself + last two owners. High level brake light fitted to clear RWC fault as GTR wing is aftermarket. Headlight loom completely rewired, no f**k arounds. H1/H3 combo w/ T10 parkers. $3000 worth of sound gear, including Dynamat throughout. Can remove/include for adaptive pricing. Bad: Needs respray imho. White is 326 Crystal White but rough on quarter panels (in touch up paint atm, still very nice looking). Bonnet clear is well, peeling. 2nd gear very minor crunch. Could benefit from Redline treatment. Input shaft bearing noise when clutch not pressed, goes away after 5 min drive. Very common issue that does not affect performance. More pics @ instagram.com/cevlol Reply here and/or email: mlgcev@bigpond.com Mobile outta order atm, changing carrier. No swaps, unless you have a dope D22 Nav w/ 150k's or less (friend's selling me his for $9k).
  20. I've recently fitted some RC 720cc Injectors and had to do a bit of a re-map on my RB20det. So far things are fine at WOT as per normal. However the idle hunts a bit, but too be expected with 720 low impedance injectors. I have Nistune by the way. However when adjusting the injector latency I began to think about what the correct latency should be and if there is horsepower (kilowatts for you guys) and reliability (Knock resistance) by having the fuel spray early (which may result in pooling at valve) or late (which could be incomplete burn/ reduced atomization). But when is the factory injection time @ 14v and rated injector impedance? Perhaps I am getting to far into this? Is there power to be made?
  21. Hey all.rb20det got mines computer,r33 series 1 turbo,rb25 afm,3 inch exhaust fmic,boost at 13.5 psi gtr 32 fuel pump wired for 13.8 volts.my question is can i update the ceramic wheel to steel and wind on some more boost and will my injectors keep up or am i better off getting another turbo if so what type,,,im a bit over lag but i love the hit up high..are forward plenums a waste of time for a rb20..thanks in advance..
  22. Ok I tried to search this but none of the search buttons work for the rb20det page. what is the diff between td05 16 18 and 20g and what is the performance difference on a rb20 compared to rb25 series 1 turbo.only driven on street will have 440cc and nistune.cheers
  23. Hey everyone, I'm after some help. Im trying to check the timing on my rb20det. Am I right in saying that number 1 cylinder is the first cylinder after the inlet and exhaust cams. I hooked my timing light up to the black loop wire at the back of the motor and my harmonic balancer degree was about 35 degree. I want to hook it up to number one plu to check that the other reading could have been possibly doubled. Also I have a autronic Eccu and a auto trans. What should the timing be set up to? Can anyone help me out? Thanks in advance
  24. Hi all, I've got an 1992 R32 GTS-T. I'm using it as a daily but I also drift in it. I've done all the relevant suspension mods but i'm now gonna start playing around with the engine. I dont want to do too much to it, my goal is about 300RWHP. But I want quick spool and high torque. All I have mod wise at the moment is a return flow FMIC and a catback exhaust (how I got the car, I haven't touched the engine at all.) I've lots of people tell me different things but I want to get some more opinions on what to do from people that know a little bit more. Goal; 300RWHP out of a RB20DET with quick spool and high torque. Suggestions? K GO!!
  25. For sale in perfect working condition, tested and can demonstrate working on the running engine: Power FC for RB20DET with hand controller, price $800 Power FC for RB26DETT R32/R33 GTR33L L-jetro, PFC only, price $400, can be modified to run on RB25DET for just $50 with base tune included, already tested on a few setups like this and running perfect. HKS F Con-V Pro ver. 3.24 universal type aftermarket ECU, can be set as L-jetro or D-jetro, price $800 Will help to install, set it up and tune For more information PM or call / email John Sobon, ph. 08 93022085 john.sobon@gmail.com
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