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Build Thread

Found 168 results

  1. So my car is completely stripped down now, shell is off to paint, and engine is at the machine shop for a refresh. Once back in my hands, the fun starts of putting her back together. Follow along!
  2. I’m looking to install my alarm into my 32 gtst and need more information about the ignition harness under the dash. I’m just wondering does anyone has a diagram / wiring table stating colours of each wire and it’s use. I can spend the time to identify them, it would just save me time if someone had already done it or knows where to source diagrams etc. thanks 👍
  3. Hey everyone, I recently started having a problem with my Laurel where after a random amount of time driving, the car will start bucking and hesistating badly at all RPMs. If I put the clutch in or go into neutral while this is happening the idle hunts up and down between 1-2k and then stalls. When it stalls the car will not crank at all, but will start back up if I bump start it. By the time I got it home it fired right up with the key again until it eventually stalled. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm currently stumped.
  4. Hello, So at my last track day a couple weeks ago everything was going fine but after a couple sessions all of a sudden when i was pulling into the paddock, my car would not idle at all and had horrible misses below 2k rpm. Everywhere else in the rev range it ran fine an did not break up. Now I've done some testing so I went with the simple stuff first: plugs gapped right, r8 coils(deletes the ignitor). That did nothing. So then i replaced my coolant temp sensor and checked tps voltage, that fixed the idle issue. So I went to check my timing. With the light the first time i checked the marks were so far past advanced that it would have been blown up by now, so I was confused and shut the car off to have a drink. Came back and started it up again to look and now it was a little past the last mark at 30* degrees and was able to get it to 20, with the cas retarded almost all the way it allowed me too. I then went for a test drive and the car ran fine but when pulling it out of the driveway it died. I pulled it in to check the timing and it was the same at 20*. So i went to drive again and got out on the road and got on it, it reved up fine and built boost with no missing, but felt like it had legitimately zero power, and off throttle it gurgled a bit. I replaced my cas and that changed nothing. I'm stumbled at this point. Any pointers?? Thanks for any help.
  5. What is the numbers on the side of a block for rb20det ? Just trying to work out if it’s a plus t or a det and same for the head ? Anyone know
  6. Hi guys, I'm trying to find an engine for my R32 skyline gtst I'm after a stock(ish) RB20det silvertop for around $1000.
  7. Daymo's R32 GTS-T Hey everyone, I thought i'd start a build thread, just so i can keep a log of everything i'm going to do to the car, and keep track of how much i'll no doubt spend on it in the next few years. I'll give a brief introduction, i'm from the U.K. but currently on a sponsorship with a goal of getting permanent residency further down the line, located in Griffith NSW, and there isnt a great deal to do here so im gonna spend my time and money on a car ive always wanted, an R32 skyline! I'm no stranger to nissans, i had a 1997 Nissan Primera GTSE, not sure if you get them over here as i definitely haven't seen one on my travels! She had a few tasteful mods:- Full Stainless Exhaust with Powerflow Backbox,Hotshot 4-2-1 Manifold,Koni Shocks and Springs,Uprated ECU (Datsek Piggyback System)Hotshot Cold Air Intake,Ported and Polished Head,JWT-S3-Cams,Short Shifter, Plasma Dials, Nissan VZR Splitter, JDM Headlights, Yellow Foglights The primera was a great car to drive, but it did get boring in the end, being NA it just needed that extra kick from a turbo but i never got round to doing the conversion. Anyway, i'll get onto the skyline now, i bought it in December 2016, its a Type-M Manual (was an auto) im still discovering little mods here and there, as the sales advert wasn't the best, i have a dyno print out for 230kW/308bhp and i know it has a kinuwaga TD06-20G but apart from that im unsure. (maybe you guys can spot some mods and i'll keep updating the list!!) Mods:- Engine:- Kinuwaga TD06-20G Tial 45mm Wastegate - did have a screamer pipe but the previous owner had this welded up when he was defected. Forward Facing Plenum Oil Catch Can Spitfire Coils 3 or 3.5" Full Stainless HKS Pod Filter (hidden underneath some awful chequer plate) Haltech Platinum ECU FMIC 14 Row Oil Cooler + Filter Relocation Kit RB20 Manual Gearbox Conversion Suspension & Wheels:- BC Racing Coilovers Lenso D1R's - 17x9.5 Fronts - 17x10 Rears Just Jap Lower Control Arms Front and Rear Exterior:- Carbon Fibre Bonnet - Unsure of brand GTR Grill Black Indicators Aero mirrors, GTR Front Bumper, GTR Spoiler Interior:- Momo Deep Dish Steering Wheel Drift Button Double Din Headunit Oil pressure, boost gauge, A/F Gauge and here are a few pictures from the day i picked her up, I got defected pretty much two days into owning it for being too low, so raised it up a touch (25mm at the front and 30mm at the rear). i then decided i hated the vinyl wrap as it was bubbling in places and pretty poorly done. i was hoping the paint was going to be okay underneath the wrap, but with the wrap being on for a good few years (the previous owner had the car 18 months, and he reckoned it had been on a while when he first bought it) this was not the case. So this is where im currently at now, ive taken all the wrap off, im currently in the process of buffing all the left over glue off the car with prepsol, and getting her ready for paint. i bought a GTR-ST front bumper from kmak aero, did a little bit of modification to the slam panel or "reo" as you call it over here. Future plans are to tidy up the bodywork, add a few subtle mods, change the wheels and sort the ridiculous camber out on the front, then try and figure out how to get an rb25/30 engineered in here, its quite frustrating as we don't have all the engineering hoops to jump through in the UK, we can literally do what we want as long as it passes an emissions test! i'll try and keep the updates frequent!! Cheers, Daymo
  8. As the weather is warming up I've noticed that my 32gtst is not starting from cold as easily as it does or should compared to winter time, we just had a really cool morning and the car started first crank, when the engine is at operating temp restarting is fine, always first crank, it just has an issues starting first start of the day when ambient temps are over 25c Any suggestions before I start playing around in nistune?
  9. Looking to buy a set of Nismo 555cc top feed injectors (yellow tops?) to suit an rb20det secondhand, give me a price and don't be ridiculous pls, looking for a good deal pls.
  10. So I got the car up on ramps to start cleaning the underneath of the car when I noticed that the AC unit does not have an accessory belt running it. Could this be why my car always blows hot air inside as well. 4C9F98C9-446D-4037-96B0-ED61A707346B.MOV
  11. Hey guys, I'm looking for a deep sounding exhaust for my Gtst 32, just want to know what will drone a little bit, give the rb20 a deep note to it, and not have a raspy obnoxious exhaust. Thanks
  12. Hey guys, first post so make sure if its incorrect, etc. drop a comment down below showing my how to fix in the future. Got a no start on my RB20DET R31. Information prior to the no start condition: Car was idling, has been running for weeks fine, recently fixed a leaking o-ring at the fuel rail, and while it was idling after the repair i was attempting to get the cluster temp guage working from an RB30e temp sender to the single spade connector on the factory 20det harness. Accidentaly tapped/bumped the spade (connected to the harness) against the block / thermostat plumbing and the engine just cut out and died instantly. No sputtering, etc. died as if the key had been turned off, very strange and could only imagine its some voltage serge situation. Information relating to my diagnosis that may or may not be relevant but i thought id include: - Fuel pump can be heard running on "ignition ON", FPR reads 0kg/cm fuel pressure, but increases to around 1-2 (30-40 or so psi) when the hose is squeezed. - Secondary ECU has been trialed that is believed to be healthy but haven't tested for myself, only word of mouth. ECU Pins: 50/60 - Closed circuit 10/20 - Closed circuit 107/108/116 - Closed circuit 26 - Closed circuit 58/49/59 - 12v + (ONLY WHEN PIN 16 IS MANUALLY GROUNDED) 109 - 12v + 45 - Believed to be possible open circuit, will be re-checking and updating asap. Extra notes: ENGINE CRANKS FINE. - Pin 16 has 12v to the ECU harness but does not activate ECCS relay when "ignition ON". BUT when manually grounded to chassis (bypassing ECU) ECCS relay activates and pins 49/59 recieve 12v+ to the ecu harness. - CAS has ground and 12v+, when spun by hand 1 degree wire cuts 5v respectively (per 1 degree), but the 180 degree seems to be all over the place, more like 20 degrees separation. Also when spun by hand, injectors and coils CAN NOT be heard firing. - Injector 6 has been tested with a noid light on crank and revealed NO pulsing, entire rail has also been tested out of manifold with no injectors visibly firing on crank. - Coil 6 has been tested with a plug in the boot, out of the head and no spark was seen. P.S Ignore the scribbles on the photos, most are there when i've gone on tangents and probably reveal nothing about the problem, just me trying to clear the diagrams in my head, I included them simply for reference in the event they are incorrect / outdated, etc. Any help is appreciated at this point, it's probably really obvious but i'm driving myself crazy over the past couple weeks with this and as im beginning to take on more work i have less time to goose chase and need to regain a sense of direction for what i should be investigating, thanks! - Sam
  13. Hello, After the timing belt was changed on the car, I ran into a problem. On test drive everything was okay, car boosted and revved like it should. Then after around 10km the car started to stutter around 0,5bar boost and wasn't going properly. The car was parked overnight and next day after around 30km the car lost it's power and wasn't accelerating as it should. The exhaust also went much louder and after all I parked the car, checked that the exhaust manifold was slightly red which means the mixture should be very lean. I took the CAS off and it seems that the half moon on the exhaust cam has broken. So I'm guess the timing got messed up and that's why the car runs badly. I haven't checked the crankshaft timing marks, but on the camshafts they lined up so I'm pretty sure there shouldn't be a problem there. Because if the car ran well on the test drive and got gradually worse, it's the fault of the CAS I assume. Now as the car is garaged for the winter I'm wondering if Tomei poncams and a new CAS upgrade will be good or stick with OEM? The engine itself is stock apart from a new intercooler. Is it worth getting Tomei Poncams with the 8.5mm lift which should be a drop in for the stock engine, valvetrain and valve springs.
  14. Hey guys, i have a 92 GTSt Type M that ive been having some starting issues and after some talking between myself a another mechanic we came to the thought that it may have a stuck open purge valve, alas information is short in english. So why might i have raw gas in this line here? Its not a lot of gas but enough to be of concern, especially since its infront of the throttlebody?
  15. Hey everyone my name is Ali and I've referred to these forums loads over the years but never actually made an account. Seeing as i'll be using the forums more in the coming months, heres my intro. As a kid I got into skylines when both parents had RBs. Dad had a R34 4 Door but mum had imported a R33 GT25T with very minimal mods coming off the boat when I was about 7. I drive a 1989 GTST Coupe with the usual bells & whistles myself.
  16. Hi guys, sorry I know parts of this have been covered and it has been a massive help!! Although I have an issue: i have an rb20det in my s13, there are no looms in the car apart from the engine loom & fuel pump wires. All plugged in and I have 3 power wires into the ecu & 6 ground wires out of the ecu; the car turns over and has injectors tick and fuel spray when fuel relay activated but I have NO SPARK. i have power, earth and signal continuity from the ecu going to all the coils, cas and injectors; ami missing something from the ecu to tell coils to spark? i swapped the igniter for a working one(same issue), should I try swapping cas and ecu? thank you guys and sorry if I can’t find the info. regards, kev 👌
  17. Hi I’m new to this site I’m from Melbourne and I have a Nissan Cefiro a31 for sale. Was given to me by a close mate who owned it for years it has a lot or work done to it. It was in mint condition until it got left at a farm for 6 years no cover shelter nothing. So once it came home had to puke the tank it was completely rusted out a fuel cell In changed the Lines and put a 044 pump in changed the all the oil and water and now it’s waiting to get painted. its got hks air intake frontmount intercooler gtr injectors splitfire coilpacks tein coilovers gtst gearbox apexi avcr boost controler short shifter tomie fpr highflowed rb25 turbo bigger dump pipe and exhaust New radiator body kit blitz boost gauge the engine got pulled apart roughly 5k km ago and has a bigger headgasket pistons and machined. The car has been registered previously but was a drift car until it got put in storage the car had been tuned that’s all I can really remember aslo has a viper alarm in it anyways once it’s been painted (white) I will be selling it and I’m having trouble pricing it as there’s not many around ? If anyone could help with a price or has an offer either money or swaps let me know would be much appreciated thanks.
  18. So I just bought a used rb20, and I am about to install it into my car. The only problem is when I went to bolt the trans to the engine I noticed my block does not have the two holes to mount the "pig ears" or "bellhousing to engine brackets". I am kinda stummed and don't know where to go from here... any help is appreciated.
  19. Hi all I’m new to this forum just trying to get some info on my Nissan Cefiro 1989 model. it was in storage for 6 years and givin to me by a friend. It was registered years ago but was also a drift car has hks intake gtr injectors front mount gtst gearbox twin plate clutch Apexi avcr boost controler rb25 turbo high flowed dump pipes and exhaust are bigger shortshifter tein coilovers engine was pulled apart about 5k km ago and has new pistons and bigger head gasket has a fuel cell with a 044 pump abit more that I’ve forgotten has been tuned... anyways I’m in the process of getting it painted and then I’m selling it and I’m not sure what they are worth or how to price it as there’s not many out there! Any help would be good or offers to swap or cash let me know what you think. cheers
  20. Hi Guys, Ive recently moved over from NZ and have purchased a R32 gts-t coupe. Looking forward to getting to know the car community here! specially around Melbourne. Look forward to seeing you guys soon for car meets and so on! Cheers, Simar
  21. have no spark, new cas tried several ignitors, ultraspark coils ecu keeps fault code 2-1 received_-247391185.mp4
  22. For sale is a very low mileage Nissan Cefiro turbo. This is possibly one of the lowest mileage Ceffy's in Australia, I'm selling it on behalf of my 68 year old mum who has owned it for the last 15 years so it's probably the least thrashed Cefiro in Australia as well. Mileage is 70,000km with paperwork to back it up. The interior and mechanicals are that of a car that has averaged under 2,500km per year, the body however has some hail damage and the price has been adjusted accordingly, otherwise the asking amount would be close to double. It's surprisingly fast, aside from keyless entry and a CD stacker it's completely standard. Vehicle is a 1988 Nissan Cefiro (A31) SE turbo auto in Melbourne. Sale price is $4,900. Please call 0410 334 407, I am unlikely to respond here or to direct messages.
  23. Hey joined to gain some knowledge on the Rb20det I'm familiar with nissans been working on them for years mostly our USDM KA24DE. Anyway here's my turd
  24. G’day! First post after my intro. Have done a search to find which parts for a31 Cefiro are common to r32 and s13 and I didn’t find much. I know it’s such a broad question however, which parts from cefiro are common with r32 and s13 and which are purely cefiro. Front and rear suspension, knuckles, ball joints, control arms, powersteering, brake pads and rotors, radiator (rb20) and anything else would be great. I pretty much have to fix everything and trying to do it on the cheap.
  25. Hi new here from the US and lack knowledge on if there is a non hicas pump I can use for my RB20DET as I tried capping the 2nd port and removing the splines inside the pump and even welding it shut still leaking. I used the search on here all I could find was hicas delete kits for the rear of the vehicle not the pump I could be searching wrong. Any help would be appreciated or a specific part number for the pump I would need. Thank you in advance
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