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Build Thread

Found 534 results

  1. hi all, this is my sil80 Thought I would get a build thread going here as NS has died a slow death and i am lurking here alot. Bought this in August 2007 and what started as a neat 180sx with a rb25 has turned into a bottomless money pit it has gone through a lot of changes over the years from a neat daily to "pig" daily to hard parker to very tidy daily to a flaming BBQ and now to weekend racer and garage ornament due to my job i haven't had much time or motivation to enjoy it or fix it over the years but got stuck back into it around 2015 the aim was to get it all running properly take it to track days and the odd weekend cruise. Which I did for about 2 years until mid this year. I moved back to Townsville early 2016 and got back into local sprint days, hill climb and drift days once a month but have taken a break this year when i bought it, it had rb25, 3inch exhaust, rsr springs & jap shocks, 32 gtr front brakes, bov, 17's and completely stock interior-it still had a factory cassette & cd player. this is how i bought it Aug '07 in late '08 fitted up a gt3076r, link g4 ecu, fmic, greddy plenum and went 5 stud. made 230kw and was petty happy how it went. also went sil80 at the same time. how it was before respray dec '09 December 09 i decided to do a quisck respray and freshen up the suspension. well that got a bit out of hand and i ended up seam welding the engine bay & inside, full colour change, replaced most suspension componets & bushes and given the car in general a freshen up(new body rubbers, seals) august '10 2012 bought a built long motor from another forum member, went 6boost high mount and bigger rear housing. December 2015 local hill climb May 2017 engine: rb25 s2 mahle pistons, spool rods balanced & grub screwed crank grout filled nitto oil pump ross metal jacket balancer n1 water pump oil restricters head to sump oil drain greddy plenum with q45 TB- ceramic coated silver Plazmaman plenum w/ Bosch 72mm DBW gt3076r ex/w .82- ceramic coated silver and black 6boost highmount manifold- ceramic coated black Modified standard exhaust manifold Turbosmart 60mm wastegate Now 50mm gen 4 tomei poncams tomei valve springs heavily ported head rb26 engine covers- powder coated silica breath metallic mines cam cover baffles link G4 ecu G4+ Xtreme xspurt 1000cc top feeds gtr Aeroflow fuel rail nismo fuel reg Walbro 460L e85 pump splitfire coil packs 3inch stainless exhaust 40mm radiator air/water seperator setrab oil cooler with themostat blitz fmic lots of braided hose driveline: rb25 g/box r33 master cyclinder exedy ceramic button clutch 1 piece 3inch tailshaft r33 gtr diff r33 gtr axels HEL braided clutch line suspension & brakes: MCA X-R coilovers GKtech castor arms kazama rear camber & toe arms R33 GTR Brembo brakes with modified abs bm57 dba400 front rotors, project mu pads & rear rotors Whiteline adjustable front & rear sway bars nolathane cradle bush's all bushes replaced with urethane S15 front lca and knuckles Slip on lock washers PBM steering rack bushes wheels: 18x8 +18 work meister s1 18x9 +22 work meister s1 17x9 +30 R33 GTR 255/40 hankook rs3 exterior: silvia front type x tail lights aero front bar and skirts gtr grill bomex bonneville rear lip hand flared guards clear indicators electric veilside mirrors respray in custom grey interior: R33 gtr seats nismo gear knob defi gauges boost, water & oil temp, oil pres performance through out the years: 156kw@14psi (sep '07) 230kw@14psi (sept 08) 13.2@107mph (nov 08) 301kw@15psi (Nov '13) 320kw@20psi (jun '14) 310kw pump98 @20psi (dec '15) 365kw e85 flex @24psi (dec '15) So its currently off the road to refit aircon using a mix of skyline, silvia and triton bits, tidy up the wiring, remake exhaust and go back to a low mount setup using a hks cast manifold. Plan is to make it back into a decent daily that I can enjoy more often and still be semi competitive at the local events in North Queensland.
  2. Hello! Nothing is wrong with my car, all gauges read correctly, the car fees responsive, and it overall is functional and great. However, with the cold temperatures, I noticed there is smoke coming out of my hood (the hood is vented) but I thought it must’ve been my valve cover filters that are venting to the atmosphere. I checked and to my surprise I found a whole substance on the exhaust manifold and turbo flange. I’m guessing it might be a leak? What do you guys think?
  3. ORC 409D Single Plate Metal Clutch Kit - suits BNR32 HNR32 HCR32 ECR33 Complete kit including cromoly lightweight flywheel, clutch and release bearing. Is just on 12 months old, bought new from RHDJapan and done less than 10,000ks and has HEAPS of life in it. Is still on car for the next week or 2 so can test it running if you're quick. This is the 409D, rated for higher torque than the 409.Only selling as I will need a stronger clutch with next round of mods, and have gone with a twinplate ORC as they are an awesome quality lightweight unit. Pickup on Brisbane northside or can post in Aus at your cost.Pics are of the clutch from when bought/installed last december, will take more pics inc showing plate thickness once off the car. Twinplate has just arrived today so will be installed within next 2 weeks.
  4. Greetings! My ECU took a poop on me for reasons I know of now lol & now am looking for an ECU for a 1993 GTS r33 The Engine is N/A & I have a manual gearbox to those who can help I would appreciate it thanks!
  5. Hey guys, first time poster, looking for some advice/help with my R33 S2 gtst. Pretty sure my CAS just died as the car cranks but wont start. A few weeks ago I took it out to get to my power steering pump and the key on the camshaft side was snapped and floating around. I managed to realign it when I put the car back together and it ran with no issues. Went down to start it yesterday and the car would not start. Cranked with enough battery voltage to start, ecu came out with code 55 so I have nothing else to suspect other than the CAS being faulty. I took the spark plugs out and they didnt smell like petrol. Going test with a multimeter to make sure but I had a question before I go ahead and buy a new CAS for $550 (if anyone has one id buy it for cheaper, im located in Sydney). I have a power fc I have yet to install, and I have not been able to find anywhere a Trigger kit that says it will work or have enough information of their page. Since ill probably have to get a new CAS my thought was why not just upgrade to trigger kit for around the same price, or just a little bit more. I'm not particularly aiming to make power that requires a trigger kit, but aligning the CAS everytime without the key is gonna get annoying. (I will eventually upgrade to tomei cams but am holding off until I finish the rest of the work I need done) I've had a look at most of the trigger kits out there (PRP, Ross, Hi Octance, etc.) but if anyone has any insight whether any of them will work with a Power FC that would be helpful!
  6. Hey guys, Just a quick one I can’t find any info on. Im installing a haltech elite 2000 into my c34 stagea. It requires a signal wire from the power output on the injector relay. I’ve tried the engine bay, under the drivers kick panel and drives coin tray but have had no luck finding the relay I need. If anyone knows of the injector relay location please let me know
  7. Got a basically stock 99 RB25Det Neo Stagea. Just recently had to replace all the coil packs because one had failed so I got some brand-new spit fires for the old girl. About a week after installing them stated to feel like the car was down on power a little when I got on boost. After driving around for a bit I could tell something was up. first gear almost felt like the car was NA with what felt like no extra power when I got on boost. Second wasn’t as bad had a little extra power on boost but still nowhere near where it was before. 3rd 4th 5th Also sort of felt off (But it’s kind of hard to tell in the high gears). To sum it up Car feels Absolutely normal driving around normally (Not getting on boost). But as soon as you get on boost there is no power. The car sort of hesitates and throughout the rev range the power will tend to fluctuate come in and out a little bit. I’ve been driving it sparingly for the last week and have also noticed that some days it feels like its NA with almost zero power. Others its not so bad. And one day this week the car feels almost normal. So, it’s a little intermittent. Not too sure what’s going on My first reaction was "it’s probably just a boost leak" but my boost gauge was still siting on 12psi like normal and I’ve got the reference line for it coming directly from the intake manifold so there’s no funny business going on in between. Other Thought was it had something to do with spark. so, I got all new sparkplugs and just got a brand-new set of coils. I just left the plugs with the stock 1.1mm gap and tested each coil pack/coil pack wire and plug to see if I’m getting a nice blue spark which I am. So that’s crossed of the list From what I can tell I must have something to do with fuel. Not sure exactly what could be only guess is dying pump, blocked fuel filter, blocked injectors. Note about 3 weeks before all this I used some of that liquid injector cleaner that you put in your fuel tank. possibly dislodged a bit of gunk somewhere in the fuel system and is causing issues?? I have no real way to test the fuel pressure let alone the whole system. Haven’t really messed around much with fuel stuff all that much in my time so any ideas or tips or tricks for trouble shooting would be greatly apricated. Could it be possible something is stuffed with the ecu???
  8. I’m on my way back from work when all of a sudden it feels like I lose one cylinder. Missfireing like crazy running real rough. I get back home and start trouble shooting what’s going on. Turns out one of my coil packs died but while I had all the spark plugs out I thought I’d give my new compression tester a go. Much to my dismay all 6 cylinders were around 110 psi. (full report below) I don’t believe this to be the cause of the misfire as I’m %99 my coil was munted. But still 110 psi in all 6 cylinders isn’t good. I’ve got a few ideas what could be causing the problem. But any input or ideas would be great. I’m thinking it could be worn piston rings or possibly ringland failure. Although I find it hard to believe the ringland failed on all 6 cylinders. Also The engine only has 150k on it and is basically stock only thing I’ve done to it is upped the boost from 7 to11psi nothing crazy. But what I think the problem most likely is, is my timing belt is starting to go or skipped a tooth or something and is throwing the timing off and therefore the compression. But hey I’m just some hopeless 18 year old. If any of y’all have the slightest idea what could be going on some guidance would be greatly appreciated.🤘 Rb25det NEO in a rs4s stagea 150xxx kms C1 105 psi C2 110 psi C3 107 psi C4 110 psi C5 105 psi C6 117 psi
  9. have a Hypergear 2u1 hiflowed turbo for sale in about 14 days time - will be on the car still until then and any test welcome - is still in excellent condition, probably around 3? years old? Just moving on to a larger turbo now. Has been run around the 15psi range mainly, so well under its' limits. Comes with a Mamba adjustable wastegate that's been modified to PROPERLY fit instead of the usual off-the-shelf shit fitment. Wastegate is under 10 months old and comes with all the extra springs. Will also throw in a metal intake pipe cos why not. $500 for the lot, pickup in Brisbane or postage anywhere in Oz at cost. Still on car so a pic won't show much, but will post pics once removed if not sold by then. Also still have - brand new GK Tech subframe bushes for R33 GTST in box, Splitfire series 2 R33 coils, Tein springs brand new in box, TOG R33 hicas eliminator kit brand new still in box, to name a few. PM if interested.
  10. Hey guys, I am new here. Seems there is a little bit difference. The carbon fiber one is for rb25, and another one is stock on rb25neo.
  11. Hey guys, I have for sale an LS1 swap kit for an R34 Skyline. I originally bought it for my 25GT as an alternative to buying a turbo model but unfortunately the kit outlived the car and I've since moved on to a Silvia so have no need for this stuff any more. The kit is top-notch quality made by Fueled Racing in Phoenix, Arizona, guys did an absolutely amazing job putting this thing together. Comes with everything you'd reasonably need to fit an LS1, including headers, engine mounts, custom oil pan, transmission mounts and a single-piece drive shaft, as well as a few other odds and ends. The kit makes use of an S-chassis k-frame for better oil pan clearance and is backed by a 4L60E automatic transmission. Have a tonne of emails from the guys at Fueled detailing the ins and outs of the kit that can be provided if you need but the kit is mostly self-explanatory,what you see is what you get. Unsure as to whether the kit can be utilised in other vehicles, might fit an R33 or Stagea if you're lucky but buy at your own risk. Headers should in theory bolt up to most LS models but can't confirm this. I'm located in Melbourne, Victoria, local pick-up is preferred but can probably organise shipping at buyer's expense. Chasing $3800 but am open to negotiation, would rather not split up the kit if I can help it but hit me up and we can work something out.
  12. Hello Everyone. Back in February my motor died, i'm pretty sure it was the head gasket but I'm no expert with these things. I've finally found a new engine and am having the swap done next week and need to sell the old one because I have no room for it, don't plan on rebuilding it and need to make some money back from swap. I will have more photos of the Engine once it is out of the car. These motors are getting harder to find, and they're getting more and more expensive. I've looked on Gumtree and other dead RB25's are being listed anywhere from $600 - $1200. I'm asking for $500 ono for the engine. Pickup from the Cannington area. Note: The Painted covers will be going on my new engine and it's standard grey will be going on the broken one. Also, I will have photos of the engine out of the car some time this week. Secondly, I'm also selling the front bumper from my car, as you can see in the photos below it's pretty thrashed, but i'm replacing it along with the new engine being put in, so, same story there. I'm asking $200ono for the front bumper (including the fog lights, which from what I've seen online are worth about $100) Same deal as above, pickups from the Cannington area, WA. DM me if you're interested in either, or if you have any further questions.
  13. OK need some help gurus so riped everything out of my r34 and put in my Chrysler as 34 going ls track but ive ran into a problem runs drives great but I cant get speedo working r34 loom dashcluster the lot in so the wires from r33 elec box speedo White and orange where do they go gbox cluster then ecu? Seems I've cut something or not plugged in somthing so I've managed to get speed hooked up to my power FC controller but it won't work in cluster or go through cluster speed input to speed output for ecu only works with wire straight from gear box to ecu speed signal any ideas? Is it just one of the box wires that goes to cluster pin 19 or? Not sure what ive done wrong it was all working n my r34 witch was auto na then converted to Manuel det with original loom but when I put in the Chrysler only lot I really cut was all the wiring going down the center of car n heater n clock etc but just want to direct wire it to speedometer please help me haha
  14. Is it possible that tight valve clearance on the exhaust side can cause little to no vacuum on idle...... This is regards to a RB25DET NEO i got...Re done the head installing tomei 1.2 head gasket and lapp over the valves however after that was done the intake side was at nissan specs of 0.012 and the exhaust is way tighter(0.014 to 0.015) on all 12 of the exhaust... will this cause such issue... secondly my last chance was to check to see if my timing was off
  15. Hey everyone I’m doing a clutch job on my rb25 stagea and have got to the stage of replacing the rear main seal. This bloody rear main seal retainer WILL NOT BUDGE I’ve tryed for hours to break the gasket seal but have gotten no where. On my first attempt to remove the retainer I snapped it basically in half “pics attached “ trying to pry it off from the block. I have got another one but at still struggling to get the broken one off. There is very little room to get to each side of the retainer from under the car with a screwdriver or pry bar. After doing some research I found that you don’t even have to take the retainer off to get the seal out but it’s too late now I need to replace it. If you guys know any little tricks or tips to get it off that would be greatly appreciated🙌😩
  16. A variety of V35 / V36 / Z33/ Z34 parts can be found HERE in the VQ series forum 1. R33 RB25 Tomei Short Shifter. Discontinued and hard to come by. This is the full kit, in box, including the matching shift knob. It is used, the nylon bush on the bottom is worn so I would replace it with a solid shifter bush for the sake of 10 bucks. $250 2. Nismo gear box mount R33 RB25. Used in excellent condition. $100 3. R32 GT-R N1 vents. Brand new fibreglass copies $100 4. R32 Greddy rear wing. Factory R32 GT-R wing on steroids and a limited run made in the early 90's - Super rare. As seen on the original Greddy RX 'speed king' and the Pentroof GT-R. Also looks good on 180sx etc as seen HERE $500 5. Pair of genuine Masa bonnet vents. Brand new fibreglass vents that you can put in a standard or fibreglass bonnet - keep your coil packs dry. Will get pics of actual items soon but look like below when installed $350 All prices are negotiable for quick and easy sales. Located in Adelaide, shipping at buyers expense. Plenty more pics available on request.
  17. Rocker Cover Breather Dash -10 and -12 size, they replace the stock breathers by push-fitting them, instead going to the hassle of welding breathers or AN adaptors to rocker covers. Made from CNC Aluminium, and replace the standard rocker cover breathers so you can use a screw on fitting like Speedflow/Earls/PFE etc These are a tight fit so they will never leak and won't come loose once installed. Suits RB20, RB25 and RB26. RB26 size available in -10 or -12 RB20 and RB25 -10 size only available -10 size are $50 a pair - including postage. -12 RB26 are $55 a pair - including postage. PM if interested! pics.... -10 on RB25 rocker covers -10 RB25 and RB20 -12 RB26 fitted -10 RB26 fitted -10 on RB20 -10 RB26 -12 RB26
  18. so, car is a 1996 s2 R33, RB25DET engine, running a PFC and aftermarket fuel rail. The unused centre cap of the rail had a fine leak spraying fuel out so pulled it out and put a new cap/seal on, and black Toyota FIPG on the threads cos it's a bitch to pull out and i don't want it to leak ever again. Rail/injectors are just on 6 months old (1/2 length Bosch ev14 960cc injectors). Had a real problem finding o-rings in stock though so only found new o-rings for the top (fuel) end of the injectors, and re-used lower manifold-end o-rings, which were still flexible/compliant. Starting it up this morning after finishing the job last night - no leak from the fitting, but now idling 18:1 + afr. Afr's go back to normal 14.7:1 range as soon as driving and up in the rpm range, it's just at idle, and is lumpy as a rotary too. I am thinking slight air leak through manifold-end o-rings on one or more injectors, enough to make it run lean, but any further thoughts or feedback would be appreciated. Further info - when coilpack connections are pulled off one at a time it becomes a definite misfire, so all cylinders are still firing, just not fully/normally. - fuel pressure is still fine, 2.5bar at idle, changes under load/vac. - ign timing is still fine and 15 deg (Had tuned up idle and timing just before i did this job, was idling bang on 800-830rpm where i want it, and 15 deg timing). - new throttle body gasket was fitted too. - Only issue before doing this was the slight fuel spray/leak, the car itself was running freakin fantastic, and pulling out/refitting the injectors and rail was all that was done - apart from removing/refit all the other shizz you need to, to get to the fuel system.
  19. Hey all, first post, I’ve come here for help as I can’t find any information elsewhere. I recently purchased a Blitz SBC type S and installed it on my r33 GTST. Car is almost completely stock except for exhaust and filter. The issue I’m having is my car boosts to roughly my target (12.5-13 psi) and then falls off in the high end to around 4-5 pounds of boost. The controller has 3 settings, duty, gain, and p gain. Has anybody experienced this or have a set of settings that works for them that I could steal? There’s next to no information on the internet on this particular boost controller and the translated manual is basic at best. Thanks in advance
  20. So any help appreciated guys, There's countless posts on misfiring on this site and I've viewed most of the ones I've found, to no avail. Engine details: RB25DET S1.5, ECU is Haltech E11V2, running a MAFless tune, Garrett GT3582R, Upgraded Intercooler, GFB manual Boost controller, Tial EWG 63mm, Nismo 740cc injectors, 3BAR MAP sensor, Bosch 040 fuel pump, Sard adjustable fuel reg (with gauge (set at 55psi) HKS Oil cooler and remote Oil filter, Splitfire Coils, NGK Copper plugs gapped at .8 with 21KMs on them. So car developed a missfire last week, over fueling, hesitating at all operating temps (biggest from TPS 0 to >2) from startup to shut down with a rich and lean pops in exhaust, surging during acelleration and cruising. Checked usual culprits in order; Coils, Plugs, Tune re install, Vacume and hoses, Fuel Reg, Compression test, Injectors Flow tested and inspected All okay, TPS sensor, Coolant temp sensor, Air Temp sensor, MAP sensor, related wiring, AAC valve, replaced Fuel filter, and ECU checks out. Nowe I havnt done the CAS, as I was under impression that a faulty cas will cause problems with starting, and it starts like nothings wrong. The BOV has been on for 4 years (was on car when I got it) and never had an issue with it before) have checked to make shure Diaphragm in Fuel reg isn't totalled and it's all fine. And no it hasn't had an o2 sensor on the exhaust (ecu) since acquiring it. The air fuel mix at idle is around 10.8:1 richining on throttle depress. All sensor have been tested with Multimeter and viewing on the Ecu both are in sync. Cars in Red Center Nats in a month so would like to have it run by then. Any help appreciated
  21. Hi guys, just wanted some recommendations on turbo sizing for application as im not quite sure which one to pick! RB25.6 Forged motor, crg manifold should i go t3 or vband inlet? looking at gtx3076r .82 rear or 3582r .82 rear would the 3076 be to small for 580-600whp as im looking for the least amount of lag possible Cheers!
  22. Hi everyone I've seen/ heard a few things about the Nissan Navara Gearbox being the same or similar to the RB25DET and rb30et gearbox. Is this true and is it worth the effort trying to bolt one up ?!?! Sounds like a cool trick haha found a 2wd 6spd manual for 1k on trademe... Anyone know any solid info about this ? Cheers
  23. I’m fitting an rb25 turbo on my RB20 and am wondering what the best sounding outlet pipe is. I’ve looked at the tomei, but I’m not really looking at spending 300 usd for an outlet pipe. What else do you guys think? Also looking at downpipes aswell.
  24. Hi guys, I'm wondering if anyone on here as changed their rear standard rotors from 265mm to 296mm? My 34 has r33 calipers adjusted to the 265mm rotors. Im wondering what i need to completely upgrade to the 296mm rotors as its cheaper than having the standard setup. Also will braking have issues as I have 280mm rotors on the front and then when i upgrade, the rear will be bigger? What are you running?
  25. Good day buddies.... So i have recently installed some Tomei Poncams(Intake 260 9.15 and Exhaust 262 9.15 lift) for my engine (RB25DET NEO).... After they were installed i never checked the shim clearance(p.s shims are above bucket type), due to it being drop in cams and my buddy who installed them never had to re-shim. Unfortunately after i started the car i heard a ticking noise from the back of the head and then investigated the reason of the noise. For a second i taught it was the body oil used(20w50) and i live in the caribbean. So i change the oil to 10w50 and the noise reduce a bit but was still there... When i pop the cam cover and check the clearances this was the results. *Exhaust * Numbers are in "thou" reading 1.0.019 2.0.019 3.0.019 4.0.019 5.0.020 6.0.020 7.0.020 8.0.020 9.0.020 10.0.20 11.0.20 + 0.011 12.0.018 tight or 0.017 AS Tomei recommend there clearances to be .018 thou mine reads close to Nissan specs and never did any head work.... but for when i checked the clearance on valve #11 and #12 i notice that was the problem.... What can cause that such big clearance #11 and tight clearance on #12 ....Btw this is a stock head and never done any head work as my goal was to just see how long the engine can last....
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