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  1. hi all, this is my sil80 Thought I would get a build thread going here as NS has died a slow death and i am lurking here alot. Bought this in August 2007 and what started as a neat 180sx with a rb25 has turned into a bottomless money pit it has gone through a lot of changes over the years from a neat daily to "pig" daily to hard parker to very tidy daily to a flaming BBQ and now to weekend racer and garage ornament due to my job i haven't had much time or motivation to enjoy it or fix it over the years but got stuck back into it around 2015 the aim was to get it all running properly take it to track days and the odd weekend cruise. Which I did for about 2 years until mid this year. I moved back to Townsville early 2016 and got back into local sprint days, hill climb and drift days once a month but have taken a break this year when i bought it, it had rb25, 3inch exhaust, rsr springs & jap shocks, 32 gtr front brakes, bov, 17's and completely stock interior-it still had a factory cassette & cd player. this is how i bought it Aug '07 in late '08 fitted up a gt3076r, link g4 ecu, fmic, greddy plenum and went 5 stud. made 230kw and was petty happy how it went. also went sil80 at the same time. how it was before respray dec '09 December 09 i decided to do a quisck respray and freshen up the suspension. well that got a bit out of hand and i ended up seam welding the engine bay & inside, full colour change, replaced most suspension componets & bushes and given the car in general a freshen up(new body rubbers, seals) august '10 2012 bought a built long motor from another forum member, went 6boost high mount and bigger rear housing. December 2015 local hill climb May 2017 engine: rb25 s2 mahle pistons, spool rods balanced & grub screwed crank grout filled nitto oil pump ross metal jacket balancer n1 water pump oil restricters head to sump oil drain Plazmaman plenum w/ Bosch 74mm DBW gt3076r ex/w .82- ceramic coated silver and black Modified standard exhaust manifold Turbosmart wastegate 50mm gen 4 tomei poncams tomei valve springs heavily ported head rb26 engine covers- powder coated silica breath metallic mines cam cover baffles link ecu G4+ Xtreme xspurt 1000cc top feeds Aeroflow fuel rail nismo fuel reg Walbro 460L e85 pump splitfire coil packs 3inch stainless exhaust 40mm radiator air/water seperator setrab oil cooler with themostat blitz fmic lots of braided hose driveline: rb25 g/box r33 master cyclinder exedy ceramic button clutch 1 piece 3inch tailshaft r33 gtr diff r33 gtr axels HEL braided clutch line suspension & brakes: MCA X-R coilovers GKtech castor arms, rear camber, traction & toe arms R33 GTR Brembo brakes with modified abs bm57 dba400 front rotors, project mu pads & rear rotors Whiteline adjustable front & rear sway bars all bushes replaced with whiteline solid rubber S15 front lca and knuckles Slip on lock washers PBM steering rack bushes braced rear cradle & castor boxes wheels: 18x8 +18 work meister s1 18x9 +22 work meister s1 17x9 +30 R33 GTR 255/40 hankook rs3 17x9 +22 Volk TE37 255/40 Advan a050 exterior: silvia front type x tail lights aero front bar and skirts gtr grill bomex bonneville rear lip hand flared guards electric veilside mirrors respray in custom grey interior: R33 gtr seats nismo gear knob performance through out the years: 156kw@14psi (sep '07) 230kw@14psi (sept 08) 13.2@107mph (nov 08) 301kw@15psi (Nov '13) 320kw@20psi (jun '14) 310kw pump98 @20psi (dec '15) 365kw e85 flex @24psi (dec '15) So its currently off the road to refit aircon using a mix of skyline, silvia and triton bits, tidy up the wiring, remake exhaust and go back to a low mount setup using a hks cast manifold. Plan is to make it back into a decent daily that I can enjoy more often and still be semi competitive at the local events in North Queensland.
  2. Hello fellow Skyline owners! I’ve had my car in the garage for 6 months now, during winter time. Before I put it off I had the car remapped. During the mapping session the car suffered from intermittent missfires on higher rpm. Then when I was done and started the car to drive home the car only ran on 5 cylinders. We did some fault searching, narrowed it down to cylinder 3. Then all of sudden after we swaped coilpack 3 & 1 around, it worked again. The coilpacks used at the time were Splitfires (5 years old). One of the things I wanted to do was to upgrade the ignition system, so I did. I Installed VR38 smart coils. Also swapped out the sparkplugs (ngk bcp7res) gapped at 0.7mm. This is when I found out that all of my old sparkplugs were very black and a bit wet. I originally thought this was a tuning or fuel realated issue since it was affecting all the of the cylinders. This week I started her up. after about 40 minutes of total running (idle) I removed to check my new plugs.. All the sparkplugs have what looks like fresh engine oil on them. The threads are clean, just on the base and half around the center electrode, just as the previous ones too had. Earlier sparkplugs i’ve had replaced has never looked like this and I find it odd that it’s like this on all the plugs. Do you guys have any ideas what would cause all the cylinders to have oil in them all of sudden? 🤔 Will upload a picture so you can see too. The car is a R33 RB25DET Car has uprated turbo,injectors,maf,ebc.. Running a apexi power fc. Unopend engine. Done about 90000km
  3. I got this car in pretty rough shape but it had a running 25 neo, haltech and a specialties engine harness. It didnt run well, awful ecu calibration, blown tomei turbo, a fuel pump flying around the fuel tank and a parasitic drain on the battery. Ive had it for about a 1.5 years now at the time of starting this thread and Ive been thru every part of this car. Ive converted to electric fans, created a few relay circuits to eliminated the battery drain, relocated the battery and this list goes on and on. Its a fun side project so things aren't in a rush and I don't daily drive the car. It sees a few track days but I mostly run my Camaro ss for those. All work is done by me in my garage, even the ECU calibration. The over all paint job was sent to a body shop though. So current mod list is Engine-Rb25 neo stock with smoothed exhaust port humps Tomei MX8265 rebuilt, 3inch side exit, Greddy FMIC, Haltech platinum,Tomei timing belt, Denso 550cc, zerofab fuel rail, DW400 pump, unknown IM and 90mm TB, grimmspeed boost controller, Ebay radiator,hks cap, mishimoto fans, Spec stage 2+ clutch, 12lb flywheel Chassis- S15 Helical LSD, delrin subframe bushings, spherical rear tie rods and rucas, KBee coilovers altered spring rates, 300zx calipers, powerstop trackday pads, steel lines, Impul R5 wheels, 255/40r17 R888r, corner balanced, half stripped interior r32 gtr seats, personal steering wheel, gktech shifter springs and brass collar, poly steering rack bushings, spherical tension rods, s13 rear sway bar Seized and rusted ISR coilovers that came with the car had to be cut off the front stud Clutch fan failure is the reason I went electric New Shoes Then on to body work, dent repair and deleting the type M wing and making holes for the GTR wing Subframe refresh The used Kbee coilovers needed new bushings but I cant get in touch with them so I fitted some VW bus sway bar bushings into them haha nasty sound deading removal with dry ice Align and balance, thats the before weights Stock turbo dyno 248whp at 14psi
  4. Hello, names Kyle long time reader of these forums as ive been looking for a r32 for a while now and I am finally a happy owner so thought id make an account haha ! Here is my 89” R32 gts-t (RB25det NEO) Few basic modifications/upgrades coil over suspension, exhaust, fmic, injectors, coils, TD06-20G Kinugawa turbo w/ external gate, powerFC having car tuned in the next week as it is running slightly rich and will have some numbers to share?
  5. So ! As the titles says ! yes I can do more research. But why when there is great people that are willing to come to you and actually explain? I have recently purchased R35 coils for my RB25 in my R33. 2 months and 1 week exact they bo longer want to work. Not sure if it’s an individual one or all of them. But I’ve contacted Golebys Parts and they say that dwell timing is to high? How can it be to high when I’ve had splitfires in it and have gone back to them since these failed ? They refuse to refund me as ‘I’ve broken’ then myself somehow. just looking for people opinions on this as I don’t really want to waste $700+ on this again
  6. I know this topic has come up before but I'm trying to undo the bolt for the harmonic balancer. I've seen someone say it was left hand thread is that true?
  7. Hello. Recently picked up an R33 GTST, S1.5, and I am very worried about the timing issues. The car ran rich when I got it, which was fixed by adjusting the TPS to correct voltage, but the idle seemed a little off still. I took it and got it retuned, as the last tune was very old and outdated. The car made 425 RWHP on a hub dyno, at 15 PSI. Tuned on Apexi Power FC and a GT3582. The car has very little knock on the hand controller, and seems to run fine. The tuner said however he had to advance the timing a massive amount, and believes the ECU is misreading timing, and it is an ECU fault. The timing degrees is at mid to high 20's under full boost, which seems very high. Again, low knock (under 30) on Power FC sensor. It was running similar timing to this for the last 7-8 year apparently, and had a very similar ignition map on the old tune. What's the go with this? How can I get the timing to a 'normal' level? Has the belt slipped? CAS failed? I am concerned the Power FC knock reading is inaccurate and I don't want this car to explode, as Covid tax meant this was not a cheap buy! Cheers all!
  8. Hey everyone, I am wrecking a S2 R33 GTS T so have a whole heap of spare parts ready to go! Check out this list below for parts and prices, if there is anything that you need but don't see here then just ask. I may have it. R33 S2 Rear cradle inc drive shaft/brakes/cables $200 S2 R33 Doors $150 each S2 R33 Boot with spoiler and hinges $200 S2 R33 Bonnet $300 S2 R33 Front Seats $80 S2 R33 Rear seats $35 R33 Rear Bumper $100 R33 Stock Cooler $80 R33 Front Rio $50 R33 RHF Guard $100 S2 R33 RH Side Skirt $50 S2 R33 Door trims $20 R33 Switch pack rits $50 RB25DET Ignition coils & Plugs $100 R33 RHF Fog Light/Indicator $100 Seatbelts $50 RB Radiator $20 S2 R33 Headlight $400 pair S2 R33 Grill, Skyline Plate $30 S2 R33 Centre Console $30 S2 R33 Tail lights $500 pair S2 R33 Washer Bottle $20 S2 R33 Coolant overflow $20 S2 R33 Rear pods $80 pair S2 R33 Glove Box $30 S2 R33 Boot insert $30 S2 R33 Speedo $50 S2 R33 Centre Dash $50 S2 R33 Dash Surround $50 S2 R33 Windscreen Wipers $30 S2 R33 Suspension $100 S2 R33 RH Control arms – Upper & Lower $100 S2 R33 Rear steering rack $50 S2 R33 Rear Strut $50 S2 R33 Door Inserts $50 S2 R33 Parcel Tray $50 S2 R33 Air box $150 S2 R33 Break Booster $50 S2 R33 Hand brake $40 S2 R33 Clutch slave & Pedal Box $50 S2 R33 Front Steering rack $50 S2 R33 Front Cradle $100 S2 R33 Sway Bar & connection part $70 R32 R32 Diff $300 R32 Front Brakes and vertical link $200 RB20DET Engine no loom $400 Rb20DET Gear Box $200 All prices are negotiable, make an offer. Need these parts gone! Cheers, Leong 0401 526 517 leong_teh@yahoo.com.au
  9. Hey all, New to the SAU forum here. I've recently purchased a 1989 r32gts (nonturbo) auto for $2k Pretty stock except the usual, pod filter exhaust, wheels.. it seem like the sump is f**ked in my car (no way to tell other then it's been bent in by a jack i guess) and apparently you have to lift the engine out a little to be able to access the sump to remove it. if this is the case, i'll be wanting to remove the rb20 and replace it for a rb25, i have a mate who want the rb20 so no hassles getting rid of it. i was going to the swap regardless but if i have to replace the sump i was thinking of doing it sooner. i have seen all the threads with pretty much everything on how to do the swap,yet i wouldn't be comforrtable doing it myself as i have very little mechanical knowledge, ( I'm learning!) if there is anyone on here who can inform me on how much a rb25de would cost, and also if there is anyone on here who would be able to help with the conversion that would be great. it'll most likely be done on my driveway lol. Please leave me with some replys! Thanks guys.
  10. mitch09


    Spring is here in canada. Take a look at 2012!
  11. Please no swaps $10,000 needs a new home For sale is my91 series 2 Nissan Cefiro with 5 speed manual with rego till 09-04-2013 , road worthy certificate and Modplates for all modification one of the cleanest cefiro's around inside and out very well looked after It has an rb25det conversion Walbro fuel pump full turbo back 3inch exhaust, remote oil filter and oil cooler alloy radiator front and rear 5 stud conversion r34 gt-t brakes r32 rear brakes DBA T3 club spec rotors QFM a1rm Brake pads Tien Flex Coilovers Whiteline swaybars front and rear series 1 dark interior nardi classic steering wheel S15 drivers seat eclipse cd player Full passenger capacity rollcage- modplated autech front lip B&N side skirts autech copy rear bar dark weather shields Roof spoiler up spec vented front grill Blitz techospeed 3 piece wheels 18x 9 +22 custom flared wheel arches resprayed in ford ego gunmetal grey about an year ago HAS COLD AIR-CON, NEEDS A NEW HOME RWC HAS RUN OUT DUE TO NOT BEING SOLD IN THE TIME BUT FOR SERIOUS BUYER WILL GET ANOTHER ONE. Please no swaps i work between 8.30am and 6.30pm so text me as i cant really take calls then. or you can call between 6.30pm and 9.00pm or anytime on the weekend Aaron 0404043119 LOCATED 4565 NOOSA
  12. Hi, BOV with RB engine adaptor, monza brand, with hose etc. ready to bolt on. $80 Located at Caboolture 4510 0418 537 181 cheers
  13. As stated, looking for an RB25 gear shifter. Happy to pay postage etc etc Thanks
  14. hi, got some r32 and r33 engine parts for sale. also some rb30. stock sII rb25det injectors and fuel rail $100 neg rb30 fuel rail r34 rb25det neo intake manifold complete r34 rb25det neo rocker covers $60 r33 series 2 rb25det standard turbo $220 or $240 with turbo manifold r34 rb25 neo engine cover bracket (neo specific) $10 or free with neo rocker covers rb30 rocker cover $20 r34 rb25det neo front cam cover $30 r34 rb25det neo cam backing plate $35 rb25det bare lower intake manifold runners $15 rb20det crossover pipe with factory blow off valve. $50 or $20 without bov. rb25det crossover pipe $50 or $20 without bov rb30e crossover pipe $35 rb20det stock bov $30 rb25det stock bov $30 rb30e 3EA ecu x $50 rb30 auto box AT1 ecu $30 rb25det aircon compressor bracket has been sandblasted $20 rb25det non hicas p/steer pump $100 rb30e na camshaft gc $30 rb30 starter motor x2 $70 each rb20det starter motor $60 rb30 stock cam gear $10 rb25det stock cam gears $20 rb25det p/steer reserviour $15 rb25det polution canister $20 rb25det dump pipe elbow $15 rb20det dump pipe elbow $15 rb25det alternator $80 used rb25det oil pump $20 rb25det stock turbo exhaust manifold x2 (also fits rb20det) $50 or $20 if you buy the rb25 turbo as well. rb20/25 turbo exhaust manifold heat shield $10 or free with exhaust manifold rb25det p/steer pump brackets $20 rb30 sump $20 stock r33 rb25det intake pipes/hoses CALL 0433 559 722.
  15. From the album: What would you value this?

    © NikkiB

  16. From the album: What would you value this?

    © NikkiB

  17. Greetings! My ECU took a poop on me for reasons I know of now lol & now am looking for an ECU for a 1993 GTS r33 The Engine is N/A & I have a manual gearbox to those who can help I would appreciate it thanks!
  18. Bit of background. So, car had been running rough for the past month or so where I’d get no power on boost at all basically almost felt like it was na. Checked for boost leaks, replaced plugs and coil packs compression test all fine still no progress. After about a month of scratching my head thought I’d check the ignition timing to see if that’s the issue. Got the coil cover off and CAS lose ready to adjust everything but as I went to check it all turns out my shit supercheap timing light decided to stop working. So, I put it all back together making sure to put the CAS back in its original spot so not to stuff everything up. Went for a driver and after about 20 mins car hesitated pretty violently jerking the car a bit. Kind of like fuel cut would feel like. And then 10 seconds later it all goes to shit and starts misfiring like crazy. Its struggling to stay at idle without me giving it some throttle. Then bam like the flick of a switch completely back to normal. and then a minute later it happened again misfiring like crazy. It stalls like twice as I’m trying to get it off the road to a side street its parked now and not starting at all, let her sit for about 5 minutes and tried to start it again. fired up perfectly normally and idled for a few mins completely fine and then again lots of misfiring and it died and wouldn’t start. I came back the next day to see if I could get it home because I only lived 2 mins down the road and f**k getting a tow truck for that. But same thing again stated fine got halfway there and it started to shit itself again, lucky I was on a hill so I could just roll her home. So in a nutshell Car has a intermittent misfire with no specific trigger. comes and goes every few mins. So, since its intermittent like that it’s pretty obvious its not mechanical issue. That seems like a pretty fair statement to make right? Therefore, its most likely a electrical issue. Something to do with a sensor or ecu. My best guess from my research is that its Either the AFM or CAS sensor that’s causing the issues. especially since i was fiddling arounds with the CAS sensor earlier. Does this sound about right to anyone? Thanks
  19. so, car is a 1996 s2 R33, RB25DET engine, running a PFC and aftermarket fuel rail. The unused centre cap of the rail had a fine leak spraying fuel out so pulled it out and put a new cap/seal on, and black Toyota FIPG on the threads cos it's a bitch to pull out and i don't want it to leak ever again. Rail/injectors are just on 6 months old (1/2 length Bosch ev14 960cc injectors). Had a real problem finding o-rings in stock though so only found new o-rings for the top (fuel) end of the injectors, and re-used lower manifold-end o-rings, which were still flexible/compliant. Starting it up this morning after finishing the job last night - no leak from the fitting, but now idling 18:1 + afr. Afr's go back to normal 14.7:1 range as soon as driving and up in the rpm range, it's just at idle, and is lumpy as a rotary too. I am thinking slight air leak through manifold-end o-rings on one or more injectors, enough to make it run lean, but any further thoughts or feedback would be appreciated. Further info - when coilpack connections are pulled off one at a time it becomes a definite misfire, so all cylinders are still firing, just not fully/normally. - fuel pressure is still fine, 2.5bar at idle, changes under load/vac. - ign timing is still fine and 15 deg (Had tuned up idle and timing just before i did this job, was idling bang on 800-830rpm where i want it, and 15 deg timing). - new throttle body gasket was fitted too. - Only issue before doing this was the slight fuel spray/leak, the car itself was running freakin fantastic, and pulling out/refitting the injectors and rail was all that was done - apart from removing/refit all the other shizz you need to, to get to the fuel system.
  20. Hey all, first post, I’ve come here for help as I can’t find any information elsewhere. I recently purchased a Blitz SBC type S and installed it on my r33 GTST. Car is almost completely stock except for exhaust and filter. The issue I’m having is my car boosts to roughly my target (12.5-13 psi) and then falls off in the high end to around 4-5 pounds of boost. The controller has 3 settings, duty, gain, and p gain. Has anybody experienced this or have a set of settings that works for them that I could steal? There’s next to no information on the internet on this particular boost controller and the translated manual is basic at best. Thanks in advance
  21. Hi everyone I've seen/ heard a few things about the Nissan Navara Gearbox being the same or similar to the RB25DET and rb30et gearbox. Is this true and is it worth the effort trying to bolt one up ?!?! Sounds like a cool trick haha found a 2wd 6spd manual for 1k on trademe... Anyone know any solid info about this ? Cheers
  22. Good day buddies.... So i have recently installed some Tomei Poncams(Intake 260 9.15 and Exhaust 262 9.15 lift) for my engine (RB25DET NEO).... After they were installed i never checked the shim clearance(p.s shims are above bucket type), due to it being drop in cams and my buddy who installed them never had to re-shim. Unfortunately after i started the car i heard a ticking noise from the back of the head and then investigated the reason of the noise. For a second i taught it was the body oil used(20w50) and i live in the caribbean. So i change the oil to 10w50 and the noise reduce a bit but was still there... When i pop the cam cover and check the clearances this was the results. *Exhaust * Numbers are in "thou" reading 1.0.019 2.0.019 3.0.019 4.0.019 5.0.020 6.0.020 7.0.020 8.0.020 9.0.020 10.0.20 11.0.20 + 0.011 12.0.018 tight or 0.017 AS Tomei recommend there clearances to be .018 thou mine reads close to Nissan specs and never did any head work.... but for when i checked the clearance on valve #11 and #12 i notice that was the problem.... What can cause that such big clearance #11 and tight clearance on #12 ....Btw this is a stock head and never done any head work as my goal was to just see how long the engine can last....
  23. Hey guys i made a post in the past about a strange noise my motor has been making on the dyno. It is only heard through the knock sensor when listening in to it, and starts bang on 5krpm and stops around 5.5k every run without fail. Almost sounds like a very fast ‘ddrrddrrddrrddrr’ (best way i can describe the noise on here). Cannot be heard just listening normally. The ECU is picking this noise up and pulling timing occasionaly because of it, but me and my tuner are stumped as to what it is. It appears to be coming from somewhere in the head area of the motor (at least thats what it sounds like). I’m coming here to look for advice on where to look. The cambelt has just been done with all new pulleys is etc, and has been done properly as I was lead to believe that could be a potential culprit. Disabling the VCT does not affect it, noise is there whether that is on or not. Has anyone else had experience with this or any advice on what it could be? Tuner is thinking it may be my intake cam gear, but has never heard of them failing before. Should also add compression is fantastic on all 6 cylinders, and car only has 105,000kms. Any advice and input is much appreciated!
  24. hey sau, not to bad yourself? been a member here for about a year though I have not done intro or been an active member in anyway. I decided I should become more involved or at least say hi lol. I have a r33 gtst headache with the stock rb25det. been working on the car for about 3 years though it sat for 18 months at one point. my mechanical background is only 1 year as a light auto apprentice 10 years ago. I have no end plan for the 33 just fixing and learning about the platform as go. I'm from the Hawkesbury in Sydney I'm not really involved to much with jdm or any car scenes atm. anyway cheers sau you guys have definitely got me out of trouble a few times with the huge amount of info here.
  25. Good news! my neo 33 is alive. As of a month ago and as everyone knows, when something’s done, something follows. i got my neo started, it randomly died etc. realised the afm wires weren’t even wired so I rewired and now she runs, no dying etc. next step: she’s randomely revving up by itself, my aac valve is wired, so what’s the go?? Cheers fellas. ps, my cas was on the wrong angle Aswell and I’ve changed it back to the angle before I pulled it off and haven’t started her yet since to test, will update on this.
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