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Found 544 results

  1. I’ve been f**king around with the lifters in my rb trying to get them to stop ticking. But when I’ve gone to put the cams back in I just realised it’s basically impossible to re seat the timeing belt on the cam gears. I know your meant to use the tensioner to get the belt back on. But to get to it is a bloody pain I’d have to remove my rad and harmonic balancer (which I also don’t have a puller for) and if possible would like to skip all that extra work. Does any one know any little tricks that I can use to get the belt back on the gears without haveing to use the tensioner. I’m guessing I’m probably just gona have to suck it up and do it properly but hey why not ask 🤷‍♂️
  2. Hello! Lucky me, I’m mostly asking this question to see if I should stop driving my car or if it’s okay. As I was bringing the front of my car off the jack, the frame slipped, and my jack pushed my radiation up up up up and cracked my fiberglass hood. It also bent my harmonic balancer pulley on my RB25DET where the power steering belt goes just a little bit, looks more like a scrape but does have a little bit of a bend. Should I be concerned about the pulley? I have driven for a day, did a couple of highway pulls in 3rd, cruises, everything feels okay, maybe a little shaky but it could be my own paranoia! Haha. Thank you!
  3. Hey guys, I have for sale an LS1 swap kit for an R34 Skyline. I originally bought it for my 25GT as an alternative to buying a turbo model but unfortunately the kit outlived the car and I've since moved on to a Silvia so have no need for this stuff any more. The kit is top-notch quality made by Fueled Racing in Phoenix, Arizona, guys did an absolutely amazing job putting this thing together. Comes with everything you'd reasonably need to fit an LS1, including headers, engine mounts, custom oil pan, transmission mounts and a single-piece drive shaft, as well as a few other odds and ends. The kit makes use of an S-chassis k-frame for better oil pan clearance and is backed by a 4L60E automatic transmission. Have a tonne of emails from the guys at Fueled detailing the ins and outs of the kit that can be provided if you need but the kit is mostly self-explanatory,what you see is what you get. Unsure as to whether the kit can be utilised in other vehicles, might fit an R33 or Stagea if you're lucky but buy at your own risk. Headers should in theory bolt up to most LS models but can't confirm this. I'm located in Melbourne, Victoria, local pick-up is preferred but can probably organise shipping at buyer's expense. Chasing $3800 but am open to negotiation, would rather not split up the kit if I can help it but hit me up and we can work something out.
  4. Pistons/rod's that came out of an rb25det block. Never seen these one's before and I can't find anything when I look up the p/n. If someone can identify them it would be greatly appreciated.
  5. Rocker Cover Breather Dash -10 and -12 size, they replace the stock breathers by push-fitting them, instead going to the hassle of welding breathers or AN adaptors to rocker covers. Made from CNC Aluminium, and replace the standard rocker cover breathers so you can use a screw on fitting like Speedflow/Earls/PFE etc These are a tight fit so they will never leak and won't come loose once installed. Suits RB20, RB25 and RB26. RB26 size available in -10 or -12 RB20 and RB25 -10 size only available -10 size are $50 a pair - including postage. -12 RB26 are $55 a pair - including postage. PM if interested! pics.... -10 on RB25 rocker covers -10 RB25 and RB20 -12 RB26 fitted -10 RB26 fitted -10 on RB20 -10 RB26 -12 RB26
  6. Hello, names Kyle long time reader of these forums as ive been looking for a r32 for a while now and I am finally a happy owner so thought id make an account haha ! Here is my 89” R32 gts-t (RB25det NEO) Few basic modifications/upgrades coil over suspension, exhaust, fmic, injectors, coils, TD06-20G Kinugawa turbo w/ external gate, powerFC having car tuned in the next week as it is running slightly rich and will have some numbers to share🙂
  7. Hello guys, I’m contemplating to convert my RWD 425hp RB25DET in my 240sx to an AWD. I hear all I need is the AWD transmission and AWD oil pan. Well, plus the hubs and axles, and probably oil pan adapter plate. But is it possible and what are all the parts I would need? It doesn’t sound hard to do. I’m contemplating this conversion for safer all year driving, faster track time/ acceleration. Better performance. Could I just change my tire setup and increase HP to achieve close AWD performance instead?
  8. I am in the process of doing a transmission swap to my skyline. I bought a pull type Neo transmission and clutch. I know I'll also need pull clutch slave cylinder but is the master cylinder for RB engines universal or will I need a pull type as well? Any feedback is appreciated thanks!
  9. Hey guys, I'm back with another tutorial that I made (thanks to isolation). This is on a how to swap the RB25 bottom end to a RB30 bottom end with a 25 head in a R34 (R33s and R32 should be kinda similar i think) that I did last year. I had to split the tutorial into 3 parts (each part is like 15mins). It starts with preping the RB30 block, to taking out the RB25, and then putting in the RB30/25 and starting it. The reason why I did an RB30 swap was not because of an upgrade but because my RB25 was showing up bad results on the comp tests and there were cheap RB30s going around (I actually made money out of selling parts from the RB30 that I didn't need lol). The goal for this car is only to be a daily responsive streeter on pump fuel (won't ever take it to the track). It's my first time ever doing something like this (I had no help, did this on my own), so take it as a guide line. If I were to do this again, I would definitely use a proper engine crane and take the whole engine out including the gearbox next time, but yeah... this was a real poor mans job and it got the job done and I've been driving this RB30/25DET Neo everyday to and from work as my daily and I've never had a problem with it (have been clocking 5000+ Kms on it as of 10/4/2020). Here's the videos: Part 1: Part 2: Part 3: I'm really happy with the outcome. Considering I knew nothing about RBs or any engine before I bought this R34. I learnt everything from researching (a shit load) on these forums, so thanks SAU, here's me giving back. The car ended up making 323.8 HP on the dyno with my OP6 highflow turbo which is a bit too small for this engine. So I will go with a bigger one in the near future. List of mods on my car previously that I brought over to the RB30 swap: HyperGear G2 RB25DET OP6 highflow turbo with ballbearing 3" turbo back exhaust 100mm thick FMIC Splitfire coil packs Xspurt 525cc injectors HDI EBC Nistune ECU Z32 AFM Walbro 255lph fuel pump (hard wire mod) 98RON Exedy HD clutch External oil cooler Koyorad all aluminum radiator Just something to add here on the side if anyone was interested (kinda like a build page, but I might as well put it here). This was my whole budget explained: So the total amount that I spent on this build/recon/swap was $3415. I bought a complete RB30 engine (without the box) for $150. Apparently this engine was used in a TAFE course for mechanic students to practise timing stuff on, so the pisons had heaps of screw driver marks on. A recon was in the picture anyways because I want this engine to last for ages. So I only wanted to keep the block, crank and rods. I sold everything els (head, alternator, ecu ect) for $240. That's already a profit of $90 lol! The reconditioning of the RB30 block and RB25 head was the most expensive out of the whole budget costing $1420. The recon from Harris Engines in Perth: $400 - Bore and torque plate hone $190 - Face block $180 - Machine and fit crank collar $90 - Acid bath $90 - Face/deck RB25 head $50 - Acid bath head $90 - Face flywheel $150 - Fitment of pistons to rods $180 - Balance rotating assembly All other things: $270 - 1mm oversized Hypatec RB30ET set of pistons + Hastings Rings $253.45 - RB25 ARP Head stud kit (202-4301) from wolf racing $261.25 - RB25DET Neo genuine nissan gasket kit $106.49 - RB30 ACL race main STD bearing set $88 - RB30 ACL race conrod STD bearing set $30 - RB30 small end rod bushes/bearing set $99 - RB crank collar from Lewis Engines $38.75 - RB oil restrictors (one 1.5mm and one blank one) $38 - RB30 brass welsh plugs $13.71 - RB spigot bush $38.98 - RB genuine nissan timing belt fastner kit $41.5 - genuine nissan thermostat $78.14 - Genuine nissan R34 pull type thrust bearing $110.5 - Genuine nissan RB25 exhaust manifold fastner kit $43.2 - Dayco 94407 (T866) timing belt $72.11 - Mamba RB30/25 turbo water braided line kit $81.59 - Braided -4AN hose + fittings for the external VTC feed from Enzed $330 - Dyno tuned car by C-Red in Perth All of the labour except for the recon and tuning was done by me.
  10. hi all, this is my sil80 Thought I would get a build thread going here as NS has died a slow death and i am lurking here alot. Bought this in August 2007 and what started as a neat 180sx with a rb25 has turned into a bottomless money pit it has gone through a lot of changes over the years from a neat daily to "pig" daily to hard parker to very tidy daily to a flaming BBQ and now to weekend racer and garage ornament due to my job i haven't had much time or motivation to enjoy it or fix it over the years but got stuck back into it around 2015 the aim was to get it all running properly take it to track days and the odd weekend cruise. Which I did for about 2 years until mid this year. I moved back to Townsville early 2016 and got back into local sprint days, hill climb and drift days once a month but have taken a break this year when i bought it, it had rb25, 3inch exhaust, rsr springs & jap shocks, 32 gtr front brakes, bov, 17's and completely stock interior-it still had a factory cassette & cd player. this is how i bought it Aug '07 in late '08 fitted up a gt3076r, link g4 ecu, fmic, greddy plenum and went 5 stud. made 230kw and was petty happy how it went. also went sil80 at the same time. how it was before respray dec '09 December 09 i decided to do a quisck respray and freshen up the suspension. well that got a bit out of hand and i ended up seam welding the engine bay & inside, full colour change, replaced most suspension componets & bushes and given the car in general a freshen up(new body rubbers, seals) august '10 2012 bought a built long motor from another forum member, went 6boost high mount and bigger rear housing. December 2015 local hill climb May 2017 engine: rb25 s2 mahle pistons, spool rods balanced & grub screwed crank grout filled nitto oil pump ross metal jacket balancer n1 water pump oil restricters head to sump oil drain greddy plenum with q45 TB- ceramic coated silver Plazmaman plenum w/ Bosch 72mm DBW gt3076r ex/w .82- ceramic coated silver and black 6boost highmount manifold- ceramic coated black Modified standard exhaust manifold Turbosmart 60mm wastegate Now 50mm gen 4 tomei poncams tomei valve springs heavily ported head rb26 engine covers- powder coated silica breath metallic mines cam cover baffles link G4 ecu G4+ Xtreme xspurt 1000cc top feeds gtr Aeroflow fuel rail nismo fuel reg Walbro 460L e85 pump splitfire coil packs 3inch stainless exhaust 40mm radiator air/water seperator setrab oil cooler with themostat blitz fmic lots of braided hose driveline: rb25 g/box r33 master cyclinder exedy ceramic button clutch 1 piece 3inch tailshaft r33 gtr diff r33 gtr axels HEL braided clutch line suspension & brakes: MCA X-R coilovers GKtech castor arms kazama rear camber & toe arms R33 GTR Brembo brakes with modified abs bm57 dba400 front rotors, project mu pads & rear rotors Whiteline adjustable front & rear sway bars nolathane cradle bush's all bushes replaced with urethane S15 front lca and knuckles Slip on lock washers PBM steering rack bushes wheels: 18x8 +18 work meister s1 18x9 +22 work meister s1 17x9 +30 R33 GTR 255/40 hankook rs3 exterior: silvia front type x tail lights aero front bar and skirts gtr grill bomex bonneville rear lip hand flared guards clear indicators electric veilside mirrors respray in custom grey interior: R33 gtr seats nismo gear knob defi gauges boost, water & oil temp, oil pres performance through out the years: 156kw@14psi (sep '07) 230kw@14psi (sept 08) 13.2@107mph (nov 08) 301kw@15psi (Nov '13) 320kw@20psi (jun '14) 310kw pump98 @20psi (dec '15) 365kw e85 flex @24psi (dec '15) So its currently off the road to refit aircon using a mix of skyline, silvia and triton bits, tidy up the wiring, remake exhaust and go back to a low mount setup using a hks cast manifold. Plan is to make it back into a decent daily that I can enjoy more often and still be semi competitive at the local events in North Queensland.
  11. Hey guys, I am re-assembling my head and I noticed when removing the arp head studs, a couple of the nuts had bottomed out on the thread. i was wondering if anyone knew the height required for the threads to not bottom out. From my measurements; -Block face to nut 70mm (both wound in all the way by hand) -Washer 3mm -Factory head gasket 1mm so this means if the height of the cylinder head face to the washer face Is less than 66mm the nut is not actually compressing the head down. Factoring in machining of the head I know there will be differences but does anyone know the factory height of the head? If it’s something much lower like 65 then I know it was just the stud not wound in properly but just want to make sure I’m getting proper torque as I have read some people double up on the washers
  12. ORC 409D Single Plate Metal Clutch Kit - suits BNR32 HNR32 HCR32 ECR33 Complete kit including cromoly lightweight flywheel, clutch and release bearing. Is just on 12 months old, bought new from RHDJapan and done less than 10,000ks and has HEAPS of life in it. Is still on car for the next week or 2 so can test it running if you're quick. This is the 409D, rated for higher torque than the 409.Only selling as I will need a stronger clutch with next round of mods, and have gone with a twinplate ORC as they are an awesome quality lightweight unit. Pickup on Brisbane northside or can post in Aus at your cost.Pics are of the clutch from when bought/installed last december, will take more pics inc showing plate thickness once off the car. Twinplate has just arrived today so will be installed within next 2 weeks.
  13. Willing to post at buyers expense RB20 Silver top Valve/Cam covers + Coil Cover - $130 ono RB25 Turbo 45V1 with factory lines $250 ono 2x RB20/25 Dump Pipe $50 ono Denso 550cc Top Feed injectors with plugs $350 ono Genuine Nissan Intake Manifold Gasket to suit Nissan Skyline GTR - RB26DETT - NIS-14035-05U10 - New $40 ono Tomei Metal Intake Manifold Gasket - Nissan GTR & Stagea 260RS (RB26DETT) - New $80 ono Factory Valve Spring Retainers - used $50 ono Performance Springs RB26 - Used $120 ono Brian Crower RB26 valve springs - Opened, Never Fitted $220 ono Genuine Nissan Intake Manifold Gasket to suit Nissan Skyline R32 GTS / GTS-4 / GTS-t - RB20DE & RB20DET - NIS-14035-72L11 - $20 Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch Kit (NSK-7056HD) to suit Nissan Skyline HR31 (JDM), R32 GTS-4 / GTS-t & R33 GTS25-t - RB20DET & RB25DET - New $380 ono Exedy Lightweight Flywheel (NF01) to suit Nissan Skyline R32 GTR / GTS-4 / GTS-t, R33 GTR / GTS25 / GTS25-t / GTS-4, R34 25GT / 25GT-4 / 25GT-t & Stagea WGNC34 260RS / RS-Four S - New $540 ono RB26 Fuel rail with NISMO Adjustable fuel reg $150 RB20 Ruel Rail $20
  14. Bit of background. So, car had been running rough for the past month or so where I’d get no power on boost at all basically almost felt like it was na. Checked for boost leaks, replaced plugs and coil packs compression test all fine still no progress. After about a month of scratching my head thought I’d check the ignition timing to see if that’s the issue. Got the coil cover off and CAS lose ready to adjust everything but as I went to check it all turns out my shit supercheap timing light decided to stop working. So, I put it all back together making sure to put the CAS back in its original spot so not to stuff everything up. Went for a driver and after about 20 mins car hesitated pretty violently jerking the car a bit. Kind of like fuel cut would feel like. And then 10 seconds later it all goes to shit and starts misfiring like crazy. Its struggling to stay at idle without me giving it some throttle. Then bam like the flick of a switch completely back to normal. and then a minute later it happened again misfiring like crazy. It stalls like twice as I’m trying to get it off the road to a side street its parked now and not starting at all, let her sit for about 5 minutes and tried to start it again. fired up perfectly normally and idled for a few mins completely fine and then again lots of misfiring and it died and wouldn’t start. I came back the next day to see if I could get it home because I only lived 2 mins down the road and f**k getting a tow truck for that. But same thing again stated fine got halfway there and it started to shit itself again, lucky I was on a hill so I could just roll her home. So in a nutshell Car has a intermittent misfire with no specific trigger. comes and goes every few mins. So, since its intermittent like that it’s pretty obvious its not mechanical issue. That seems like a pretty fair statement to make right? Therefore, its most likely a electrical issue. Something to do with a sensor or ecu. My best guess from my research is that its Either the AFM or CAS sensor that’s causing the issues. especially since i was fiddling arounds with the CAS sensor earlier. Does this sound about right to anyone? Thanks
  15. Hello! Nothing is wrong with my car, all gauges read correctly, the car fees responsive, and it overall is functional and great. However, with the cold temperatures, I noticed there is smoke coming out of my hood (the hood is vented) but I thought it must’ve been my valve cover filters that are venting to the atmosphere. I checked and to my surprise I found a whole substance on the exhaust manifold and turbo flange. I’m guessing it might be a leak? What do you guys think?
  16. Greetings! My ECU took a poop on me for reasons I know of now lol & now am looking for an ECU for a 1993 GTS r33 The Engine is N/A & I have a manual gearbox to those who can help I would appreciate it thanks!
  17. Hey guys, first time poster, looking for some advice/help with my R33 S2 gtst. Pretty sure my CAS just died as the car cranks but wont start. A few weeks ago I took it out to get to my power steering pump and the key on the camshaft side was snapped and floating around. I managed to realign it when I put the car back together and it ran with no issues. Went down to start it yesterday and the car would not start. Cranked with enough battery voltage to start, ecu came out with code 55 so I have nothing else to suspect other than the CAS being faulty. I took the spark plugs out and they didnt smell like petrol. Going test with a multimeter to make sure but I had a question before I go ahead and buy a new CAS for $550 (if anyone has one id buy it for cheaper, im located in Sydney). I have a power fc I have yet to install, and I have not been able to find anywhere a Trigger kit that says it will work or have enough information of their page. Since ill probably have to get a new CAS my thought was why not just upgrade to trigger kit for around the same price, or just a little bit more. I'm not particularly aiming to make power that requires a trigger kit, but aligning the CAS everytime without the key is gonna get annoying. (I will eventually upgrade to tomei cams but am holding off until I finish the rest of the work I need done) I've had a look at most of the trigger kits out there (PRP, Ross, Hi Octance, etc.) but if anyone has any insight whether any of them will work with a Power FC that would be helpful!
  18. Hey guys, Just a quick one I can’t find any info on. Im installing a haltech elite 2000 into my c34 stagea. It requires a signal wire from the power output on the injector relay. I’ve tried the engine bay, under the drivers kick panel and drives coin tray but have had no luck finding the relay I need. If anyone knows of the injector relay location please let me know
  19. Got a basically stock 99 RB25Det Neo Stagea. Just recently had to replace all the coil packs because one had failed so I got some brand-new spit fires for the old girl. About a week after installing them stated to feel like the car was down on power a little when I got on boost. After driving around for a bit I could tell something was up. first gear almost felt like the car was NA with what felt like no extra power when I got on boost. Second wasn’t as bad had a little extra power on boost but still nowhere near where it was before. 3rd 4th 5th Also sort of felt off (But it’s kind of hard to tell in the high gears). To sum it up Car feels Absolutely normal driving around normally (Not getting on boost). But as soon as you get on boost there is no power. The car sort of hesitates and throughout the rev range the power will tend to fluctuate come in and out a little bit. I’ve been driving it sparingly for the last week and have also noticed that some days it feels like its NA with almost zero power. Others its not so bad. And one day this week the car feels almost normal. So, it’s a little intermittent. Not too sure what’s going on My first reaction was "it’s probably just a boost leak" but my boost gauge was still siting on 12psi like normal and I’ve got the reference line for it coming directly from the intake manifold so there’s no funny business going on in between. Other Thought was it had something to do with spark. so, I got all new sparkplugs and just got a brand-new set of coils. I just left the plugs with the stock 1.1mm gap and tested each coil pack/coil pack wire and plug to see if I’m getting a nice blue spark which I am. So that’s crossed of the list From what I can tell I must have something to do with fuel. Not sure exactly what could be only guess is dying pump, blocked fuel filter, blocked injectors. Note about 3 weeks before all this I used some of that liquid injector cleaner that you put in your fuel tank. possibly dislodged a bit of gunk somewhere in the fuel system and is causing issues?? I have no real way to test the fuel pressure let alone the whole system. Haven’t really messed around much with fuel stuff all that much in my time so any ideas or tips or tricks for trouble shooting would be greatly apricated. Could it be possible something is stuffed with the ecu???
  20. I’m on my way back from work when all of a sudden it feels like I lose one cylinder. Missfireing like crazy running real rough. I get back home and start trouble shooting what’s going on. Turns out one of my coil packs died but while I had all the spark plugs out I thought I’d give my new compression tester a go. Much to my dismay all 6 cylinders were around 110 psi. (full report below) I don’t believe this to be the cause of the misfire as I’m %99 my coil was munted. But still 110 psi in all 6 cylinders isn’t good. I’ve got a few ideas what could be causing the problem. But any input or ideas would be great. I’m thinking it could be worn piston rings or possibly ringland failure. Although I find it hard to believe the ringland failed on all 6 cylinders. Also The engine only has 150k on it and is basically stock only thing I’ve done to it is upped the boost from 7 to11psi nothing crazy. But what I think the problem most likely is, is my timing belt is starting to go or skipped a tooth or something and is throwing the timing off and therefore the compression. But hey I’m just some hopeless 18 year old. If any of y’all have the slightest idea what could be going on some guidance would be greatly appreciated.🤘 Rb25det NEO in a rs4s stagea 150xxx kms C1 105 psi C2 110 psi C3 107 psi C4 110 psi C5 105 psi C6 117 psi
  21. have a Hypergear 2u1 hiflowed turbo for sale in about 14 days time - will be on the car still until then and any test welcome - is still in excellent condition, probably around 3? years old? Just moving on to a larger turbo now. Has been run around the 15psi range mainly, so well under its' limits. Comes with a Mamba adjustable wastegate that's been modified to PROPERLY fit instead of the usual off-the-shelf shit fitment. Wastegate is under 10 months old and comes with all the extra springs. Will also throw in a metal intake pipe cos why not. $500 for the lot, pickup in Brisbane or postage anywhere in Oz at cost. Still on car so a pic won't show much, but will post pics once removed if not sold by then. Also still have - brand new GK Tech subframe bushes for R33 GTST in box, Splitfire series 2 R33 coils, Tein springs brand new in box, TOG R33 hicas eliminator kit brand new still in box, to name a few. PM if interested.
  22. Hey guys, I am new here. Seems there is a little bit difference. The carbon fiber one is for rb25, and another one is stock on rb25neo.
  23. Hello Everyone. Back in February my motor died, i'm pretty sure it was the head gasket but I'm no expert with these things. I've finally found a new engine and am having the swap done next week and need to sell the old one because I have no room for it, don't plan on rebuilding it and need to make some money back from swap. I will have more photos of the Engine once it is out of the car. These motors are getting harder to find, and they're getting more and more expensive. I've looked on Gumtree and other dead RB25's are being listed anywhere from $600 - $1200. I'm asking for $500 ono for the engine. Pickup from the Cannington area. Note: The Painted covers will be going on my new engine and it's standard grey will be going on the broken one. Also, I will have photos of the engine out of the car some time this week. Secondly, I'm also selling the front bumper from my car, as you can see in the photos below it's pretty thrashed, but i'm replacing it along with the new engine being put in, so, same story there. I'm asking $200ono for the front bumper (including the fog lights, which from what I've seen online are worth about $100) Same deal as above, pickups from the Cannington area, WA. DM me if you're interested in either, or if you have any further questions.
  24. OK need some help gurus so riped everything out of my r34 and put in my Chrysler as 34 going ls track but ive ran into a problem runs drives great but I cant get speedo working r34 loom dashcluster the lot in so the wires from r33 elec box speedo White and orange where do they go gbox cluster then ecu? Seems I've cut something or not plugged in somthing so I've managed to get speed hooked up to my power FC controller but it won't work in cluster or go through cluster speed input to speed output for ecu only works with wire straight from gear box to ecu speed signal any ideas? Is it just one of the box wires that goes to cluster pin 19 or? Not sure what ive done wrong it was all working n my r34 witch was auto na then converted to Manuel det with original loom but when I put in the Chrysler only lot I really cut was all the wiring going down the center of car n heater n clock etc but just want to direct wire it to speedometer please help me haha
  25. Is it possible that tight valve clearance on the exhaust side can cause little to no vacuum on idle...... This is regards to a RB25DET NEO i got...Re done the head installing tomei 1.2 head gasket and lapp over the valves however after that was done the intake side was at nissan specs of 0.012 and the exhaust is way tighter(0.014 to 0.015) on all 12 of the exhaust... will this cause such issue... secondly my last chance was to check to see if my timing was off
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