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Build Thread

  1. Hey all. I know there is a plethora of information about Hypergear turbos on these threads, with Tao providing a heap of Dyno results. I was looking at Hypergear's ATR45-SAT (Special application turbocharger) as it will directly bolt on to my existing setup, with some basic fabrication/relocation of some intake piping, and will suffice for my 300-350rwkw power figure I am after with my current setup for street use. Only thing is he doesnt provide any specs from what I can see on the size of the housings, or any sizings of inlets/outlets, which I thought would be basic information you would provide there for your customers to see when deciding to choose your product, like other turbo sellers do. Has anyone got some of their own feedback and dyno results on that specific turbo? Was also looking at Kinugawa turbos that were a direct bolt on, and had heard good things about them, I dont think theyre as popular as they used to be, but has anyone had one recently theyve purchased and used? Any other recommendations with reasoning as to why they went with it?
  2. Hi All I’m Rene, based in Hamilton NZ and am the owner of a silver 1996 R33 coupe. I bought the car in August 2009 and I am the first owner in NZ. When I first purchased the car, it was a bone stock gts25t automatic with approximately 75,000kms on the clock. From memory I paid about $8,600 from the dealer: Mod History So over the years I have done a few modifications. The first real mod I did was wheels (on stock shocks) and tints: Now this was done prior to finding out about SAU/SDU, meaning I had no understanding about things like fitment, so was rolling round in 4x4 spec for some time.. Eventually I became a bit more educated (thanks to the forums) and started to do things a bit better. Rather than write a novel of the last 13 years of ownership, I thought I’d just add the list of mods: Exedy lightweight flywheel Exedy full face organic clutch Braided clutch line Adjustable whiteline swaybars (front and rear) Znoelli dimple drilled and slotted brakes with performance pads (front and rear) Braided brake lines (front and rear) BC Gold adjustable suspension Hicas lock bar Tomei upgraded fuel pump Genuine Greddy front mount intercooler kit 3” exhaust from turbo back, with 3” bellmouth dump R34 OP6 turbo Mishimoto aluminium radiator ATP catch can and speedflow fittings 17x10r and 17x9f wheels with Falken fk452 all round Innovate mtx range gauges (oil, wideband and boost) Funnily enough, this list was actually composed to add to the classified to sell it, however I just can’t bring myself to do it. Did you say M3 @Dose Pipe Sutututu? Anyway, this brings us to the current day The car now has 105,000ks and is barely used as I just don’t have time and it doesn’t really suit being my daily (as I need something more suitable to visit construction sites). I don’t think I have even driven it in the past 12 months.. Build Direction The plan here is to go for a bit of an OEM+ type vibe, so nothing too extreme. I am also planning to modernise a lot of the vehicle with things like new ECU (decided on Haltech), DBW, cruise control etc. The power will eventually get increased with an end goal of around 280-330kw. I am keen to get a bit more motivation and actually get this car build back up and going again. It may not be the fastest build, but I’ll get there eventually! And then I’m less likely to try sell it..
  3. Hey guys. Really would love some guidance here, im stuck between a rock and a hard place and makes me sick that ive just had one thing after another go wrong on a car I purchased a month ago. Initially showed an exhaust valve leak from a leak down test, got head off, serviced, machined, replaced a few valves that needed replacing and all the guides, upgraded springs and retainers, upgraded cams to Poncam Type B’s, put it all back together. Popped it on the dyno, made only 180kw at 20PSI of boost. Power dipped at peak torque, so not good. They found it had a slight knock on a cold startup, but went away after a couple seconds. Dropped the oil, and found little bits of metal in the oil and oil filter, great! So bottom end needs some attention now. They didnt want to just replace whats broken, they wanted to go all out forged internals (pistons, rods, rings, crankshaft), get it machined, new oil pump, gaskets, bearings, the lot. Reckon it would come to about $20,000 with a tune after all back together. Im not after a ridiculous build. Its a weekend car to enjoy driving and cruising, im not wanting to make 500kw at the wheels. Reason they wanted to do all new parts is so they could cover their workmanship under their warranty, if something old that wasnt replaced broke, it could become a big thing Can i get some guidance on what I should do here? This is my first time getting into this stuff and the car has just been an absolute shit show from the get go, and makes me sick thinking how ive purchased this car and the engine needs to come out. There were no signs of this from the beginning that it had a bottom end issue, and i have not even driven it 400kms since buying it
  4. Hey guys. So took my car to a local tuner/mechanic to get it looked over, showed low compression cylinders 5 and 6, they did a leak down test, showed exhaust leak was the culprit. Rest of the cylinders were around 160PSI on average. Only issue i had with the car was with the A/C on, when it was a really hot day, and car was warmed up, when the AC belt engaged/disengaged, the revs would drop a little briefly and before the revs picked back up it dropped enough to stall out, also happened occasionally when going from 3rd to 2nd and i did a slow gear change, the revs would drop and engine would stall briefly until i released the clutch and the engine turned over. With A/C off it wouldn’t do that at all. This particular shop unfortunately didnt have the time to do the work for quite a while due to some race events coming up and the cars they were working on for those, so went to another shop that had a bit of a shorter time before i could get in, and had good reviews. They took the heads off, got it machined, serviced, new head studs, new gaskets, upgraded the valve springs and retainers, upgraded the cams, put it all back together. Theyre now getting about 120-130PSI across all cylinders, car really struggles to start up, and is making only 180kw ATW on 20PSI of boost, and previous owner who had all the work/tune done had 300kw ATW when he got a dyno test done Is there something shonky going on? How can the PSI drop so bad across the 4 front cylinders that were ok originally?
  5. Hey guys. Need to get the head machined, as a leak down test showed some major leaking coming from the exhaust valves in cylinders 5 and 6. Im looking at upgrading the cams, valve springs, and they will replace the usual little bits and pieces as part of a head refurbishment. Any other things I should do while the heads off?
  6. hi there i got a HR34 and it stop start i dont know why when i try to start the car it crunk but did not start and when i stop crucking it i get a sound from the trriger ( 3 or 4 tiking sound ) with a engine flashing i change everything and look at the timming for the engine every thing ok i got a haltech plug in ecu this a video for what happening
  7. Hi, went to get some fluid for the reservoir in the boot and the people at the shop seemed to think that this would work? Just wanted to confirm before putting it into my car 😂
  8. hello First time poster on any sort of forum so please be nice! looking on advice/experiences people have had with pulsar turbos more specifically the 3576 or 3076, I’m building a r31 with a rb25det series 2 and wanting 300kw, I’m looking for a turbo that won’t come on until low to mid 3k rpm and full boost before or around 4K, only mods that may affect response that I have are top Mount mani and a FFP, thanks in advance
  9. Yo... So, after picking up an RB25 block and crank cheap on here from AngryRB, a forged short block build project has been on the cards for the last few months as I already had a lot of parts left over from the last engine build. Will be using Ross Pistons, and I had been leaning towards Spool rods as they will no doubt handle the 600-700hp the engine is being built for. However, after posting a review of the maxpeedingrods turbo I used recently, which I found to be outstanding value for money, I was contacted by MaXpeedingRods asking me if I had any projects happening and if I was interested in using any of their other parts. They make a conrod for the RB25, and loads of other cars, but unfortunately I couldn't find any real info on them as far as the RB/skyline community goes, although a few reviews and a bit of info on other forums, and a more detailed review here https://bofiracing.co.uk/blog/maxpeedingrods-cheap-chinese-rods-our-verdict/ No real horror stories found, (only 2 issues on a VW forums which seemed to result from a rod bolt failure, rather than the rods themselves) with most of the negatives I found seeming to be the ol' " no way I'd use ebay parts" which to me is an attitude about 15 years out of date. After seeing their conrods and comparing the specs to Spool, Scat, Eagle rods, they seemed to be very comparable, (if not the same but rebranded), and MUCH cheaper. Then after discussing with them regarding the product and what my upcoming build will be needing, they have sent me a set which arrived within a few days from the AU warehouse - nice secure box with plenty of foam packing, each rod in a sealed bag and greasepaper-wrapped. The rod itself, when compared to the stock rod, there's no comparison. Nice even finish across it, laser-etched marking on the big ends showing the final measurements, the caps are dowelled giving a precise fitment on the rod. I was a little suss on the genuine-ity of the ARP fastener but have confirmed with ARP, yes they are an official ARP product, made under license. The block and crank are with the rebuilder at the moment (but have confirmed, the crank and bores have measured up fine, so thanks AngryRB ) and I will be dropping the rods into them next week for the engine balancing, so will post up their feedback on the rods shortly.
  10. Hi guys, I'm dreaming up a list of next mods once the weekender is sold. I've checked several threads like this and this but many of them seem quite dated - I'm looking for 2012 information. The car is an R34 GTT with basic upgrades: FMIC, full 2.5" turbo back, high flow cat, TurboTech V2 manual boost controller and Nistune. It's currently pushing just shy of 200 rwkw. I'd be aiming for a reliable 250-280 rwkw in the next stage, preferably without too much lag. I like the idea of a high flow as it bolts straight in. Is this power level possible with a high flow? Are there other companies besides GCG doing good high flows? Besides high flow, what are the other options when staying low mount? Something like a HKS GT-RS? Also I assume the basic supporting mods are a Z32 AFM, 040 fuel pump and injectors (what size?). What else is needed? Also I'd be retaining the Tiptronic auto, would it cope? What kind of overall cost would I be looking at? I'm not keen on doing engine internals, cams, or running E85 etc. Any feedback and recent experiences welcome. Thanks
  11. Hi all, got a few queries with the instal of my plasmaman, Firstly, I think I have a fairly old one, I got in second hand with t/b, reason I think that is it has an adapter place for aac valve instead of it bolting to side of plenum. What I need to know is where to plumb things basically. I run a haltech map sensor, To shorten the feed hose length should I tap into engine side of plenum half way up? Where do I run the little hose that goes to the carbon canister from stock t/b? Where do I plumb my pcv into? Where do i get pcv from rb26 covers? Im sure theres more ill think of but this is the main bits. Couldnt find much on the forums about these... Thanks
  12. Hi everyone, I have a few parts I wish to part with. First of all is a Kando T67-25G turbo that had been run on a 25/30 for about 3 months last year and now has been sitting in a box. I also have a Tial 44mm wastegate with screamer with flanges/ flexes to plumb back in. Custom 3 inch dump pipe, modified rb25det stainless steel top mount manifold, some intercooler piping and lastly a r33 lsd diff with 5 stud shafts with brand new rubber bushings. I am asking for $800 for turbo and external wastegate. Or $1000 with manifold and flanges for plumb back and dump pipe. and $200 for diff.
  13. Quite urgently need an RB25DET oil sump. Please contact me on 0423 597 293 or you can PM me on here, thanks.
  14. hi, I have got some r32, r33 engine parts for sale. also some rb30. rb20det crossover pipe x 3 rb25det crossover pipe x 2 rb30 crossover pipe x 2 rb20det stock bov x3 rb25det stock bov x 2 rb25det air compressor bracket has been soda blasted rb25det hicas p/steer pump rb25det non hicas p/steer pump rb30e na camshaft gc rb30 na starter motor x2 (auto and manual are the same) rb20det starter motor rb30 stock cam gear rb25det sII stock cam gears rb25det p/steer reserviour rb25det polution canister rb25det cas bracket rb20det stock dump pipe x 2 rb25det stock dump pipe x 1 rb25det oil pump rb25det oil filter cooler sandwich plate x2 rb20/25det stock exhaust manifold x2 rb20/25det exhaust manifold heat shield holden rb30 rocker covers tridon rb30 thermostat. used for maybe a week max rb25det neo cam covers internal fuel pump r32/r33? jecs rb20/25det thermostat housing/lower hose to block pipe x 3 rb alternator slider bracket x2 rb30na heat shield factory vl turbo A8 pistons and rods x6 rb30na exhaust manifold down to cat p/steer pump brackets neo engine cover bracket rb25det neo rocker covers rb25det bare intake manifold $15 rb30 sump r33 rb25det cooler hoses stock sII rb25det injectors Stock sII rb25det coilpacks Call Jamie. 0433 559 722. pick up from rothwell, brisbane northside 4022
  15. Selling my spare RB25det engine, good chance i wont need it again because i have alot bigger engine in my S14. Engine is well tested, has done a mere 147,000kms, and i still have the dash ! I can show the buyer how to wire it in and to run with a few simple wires. includes loom, ecu, manifolds, afm, turbo, injectors, flywheel pick up in SE suburbs $1200 ONO, engine is advertised elsewhere, please sms 0417506282 will swap for brown and davies half cage with lugs for intrusions to suit S14
  16. R33 S1 complete motor with loom, ecu, turbo, injectors and coil packs $1500 6 Yellow Jacket R33 S1 and R32 coilpacks $300 6 SuperSpark R33 S1 and R32 coilpacks $300 Sparco Sprint fixed back bucket seat good condition on dodgy r33 rail $400 R33 Dash $150 R33 cluster $100 Location - Adelaide South Australia Phone - 0487343752 or PM prices are slightly neg
  17. For anyone interested in buying a new plenum, Custom plenum creations (cpc) have a group buy going on at the moment. The thread is on calaisturbo.com but i'm sure there wouldn't be a problem if SAU members want in on it too. thread here>>> http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?p=3011196#post3011196 <<
  18. Gents, I have a series 2 rb25det for sale. Complete longmotor with: R34 Thottle body Starter motor. Cas, harmonic balancer etc. No Coils. Also comes with a new set of ACL Racing bearings(full kit) as the engine needs a rebuild. No accessories unless mentioned. $400. also have a brand new RB25 Exedy clutch. includes bearing and cleaning lube. paid $420 and is still in the box so looking for $400. all located in the Sutherland Shire Josh 0420 971 976. MSG or PM during business hours please.
  19. all items located in blakeview SA - RB25DET motor that has been previously opened as I intended to forged rebuild it, I had to move interstate so I loosely bolted it back together as the moving company wouldn't move an engine but they would move the car with or without it. the engine does need to be rebuilt and will come with new rings and bearings, the intake manifold, throttle body, nismo 555cc injectors, a tomei cam gear on the exhaust side, gates racing timing belt. the motor was on 107xxxKM before it was stripped. the motor DOES need to be re built $700 ONO or 800 with crane and stand I also have a few other parts as well: -extreme 6 puck solid button clutch with a extra heavy duty pressure plate, used but in near new condition - $300 ONO -SPOOL H beam forged conrods to suit RB25 and 26. - $500 ONO - SCA engine crane and stand, for both $250 ONO -standard RB25 coil packs. $50 ONO - R33 RB25 engine loom. $50 ONO - all off RB25: starter motor power steering pump alternator aircon pump flywheel R32 engine mount brackets STD AFM cam angle sensor clutch fan ↑ all $20 each or make an offer I am open to offers but please don't waste my time with ridiculous offers, feel free to ask any questions PM me on here to get in touch
  20. R33 S1 RB25DET Complete Motor Includes -injectors -intake manifold -exaust manifold -turbo -dump pipe -long motor (sump to rocker covers) Also have a ecu and wiring loom if required. Location - Adelaide, South Australia Price - $1400 Neg Phone - 0487343752 or PM
  21. Up for sale is my beloved 2000 Y34 Nissan Cedric. I'm its 2nd AUS owner since it arrived back in 08. The car has been well maintained, runs like a dream, hasn't had any mechanical issues & is silky smooth to drive. No real mods apart from the wheels, being slightly lowered to get rid of the 4x4 spec & a boost controller. The car was always a cruiser & a head turner were ever it went. The reclining rear seats are also quite the treat for passengers! I will miss that! It also comes with a nice jap>eng translation book to help with navigating the dash and its many features. It's pretty easy, I got the hang of it after a few days. Additional info from its 1st AUS owner: 'This vehicle started out as a VQ30DET CVT and soon after its arrival in 2008 the CVT blew up.I sourced an RB25DET Neo from the same car and began the swap. After countless hours after work and weekends, its finally finished, and the best part is that EVERYTHING works! This is and will most likely remain to be the only RB25DET powered Y34 to be ever in the country (unless someone personal imports one). ' Vehicle details: 2000 Nissan Y34 Cedric 146,xxx kms on chasis 126,xxx kms on engine RWD RB25DET Neo 4 speed Automatic Greddy Elec Boost Controller Leather and woodgrain interior 19" Genuine Work Rims Stretched tyres 225/30/19 front - 98% , 245/30/19 rears - 80% Lowered springs ABS Quad airbags Tri-zone climate control 6 stack CD player TV with RCA inputs Adjustable reach and tilt steering column Electric front seats Reclinable rear seats (daamn!) Electric mirrors Electric windows Power steering (silky smooth) Remote keyless entry with central locking Xenon headlights and driving lights Autolock boot Programable Multi Control Unit to control auto functions (windows up, lights dim, etc..) Steering wheel MCU controls Rear MCU controls Air purifier system 8inch sub Price $20,000 ONO Phone 0429 103 257 Email [email protected] Would consider trade + cash adjustment my way for 79v Subaru Forester GT Manual.
  22. $250 ono Fully legal/not defectable Turbosmart "Supersonic" blowoff valve It has a new plumback fitting & adapter plate to bolt straight onto rb25det Skyline & Stagea engine's Might also fit rb20det's but i'm not 100% sure These sold for about $350 new plus the adapter plate costs about $60 to buy as well Trumpet fitting & blanking plug are also included Pickups from Runcorn Brisbane.Might be able to drop it off locally or can send it registered mail at buyers expense.
  23. Hi guys, just bought this amazing car after selling my s15. Its a sedan skyline with full full nismo bodykit and performance parts. Hks 28/35 turbo Hks ecu pro version 2.1 Hks fmic Nismo injectors Apexi electronic boost controller Nismo 5 speed gearbox Nismo Heavy duty clutch Nismo 300km speedo Greddy inlet manifold Oil catch can and cooler Nismo rims Bigger fuel pump 250kw at the wheel with 1bar. The problem is that the car was tuned by the previous owner on 2 bars. When I bought the car. The car was set and runing at .75 bar and was running was rich, black smoke. The car got no afm as well and the owner is not sure what the previous tuner has done. May runing on map sensors. I then increase the boost to 1.10 bar, the car run a bit better than before but still run a rich. (By increasing the boost, doesnt blow that much black smoke) I found some petrol leak beside the injectors as well. Not sure about that. Need to get a good tuner who work on hks ecu and someone to fix that injectors leak which I think its the orings. If anyone know a good tuning place please let me know.
  24. I have acquired a front cut and a stack of rear end parts that is basically taking up space in my driveway so it's all gotta go. Prices are very fair already but if you'd like to make a reasonable offer feel free. Bear in mind if I have to package and post the item I may be less receptive to low balls. MORE PICS AND PARTS TO BE UPDATED AS I GO! Pick up Lower Blue Mountains Sydney. Bonnet $100 (pick up only at this stage) Doors $50 each (pick up only)- Driver's door sold, all others still available. Side mirrors $30 pair or $20 each Door cards- not in good condition however the fabric parts could be used to upgrade your existing trim- $Make an, offer pick up only Rs260 (series 1- red trim) door card set in awesome condition $sold Rs260 )series 1- red trim) front seats $200 pair, Front guards $50 each (pick up only) Passenger inner guard liner $30 (pick up only) Driver's side sold Rear tailgate, complete except for boot lock $150 (pick up preferred) Dolphin side skirts and rear bar, would need some repairs $SOLD Block $200 (head sold already, motor had low compression on 6) Op6 turbo $SOLD Gearbox $SOLD Manual conversion $SOLD Steering wheel (manual with airbag) $150 Wiring looms $50 each Rear diff $400 Driveshafts $100 each Hubs $50 each Rear brakes $50 Complete rear cradle (diff, shafts, cradle, hubs etc) $600 Front brakes $80 Brake master and booster $40 each ABS unit $80 Fuel pump/cradle $50 Stock suspension with lowered springs $SOLD Headlights- Passenger side only available $50 Everything else you can see is for sale, make an offer! Sold already: Head, coilpacks, intercooler, front bar, drivers side driveshaft, rims, centre console, power steering pump, 4wd pump, driver's door, drivers side inner guard liner, washer bottle.
  25. For Sale: - No trades. $5750. Firm. No offers. 0403 279 975 1997 Series 2 R33 GTS25t 157,xxx km White Manual Turbo The Good: Tomei Poncams Cooling Pro Stealth return flow FMIC Exedy HD cushion button clutch Exedy racing flywheel Drift oil catch can R33 GTR 17”x9” rims (F: 245/40R17 R: 255/40R17) Cusco Front strut brace, R33 GTR rear strut brace Nismo slave cyl. w/ HEL braided clutch line 3” – 3.75” stainless exhaust from turbo back Pioneer CD/MP3/WMA/AAC stereo w/ ipod/USB/iphone connectivity & handsfree Bluetooth HICAS Lock bar HEL braided brake lines w/ Project Mu calliper rebuild kit Red stitched leather gear and boots + centre console Original Skyline mats Z32 AFM fitted 13AUG. adjustable camber Front and Rear The bad: Cracked RFront indicator Needs aftermarket ECU for proper tune a few squeaks here and there Selling due to Minister for Finance and Recreation decree (Missus says it's gotta go before baby arrives). Have receipts for parts fitted and work done, runs well and has been extremely reliable in the 9.5yrs I've owned it. Engine always had Royal Purple motor oil, gearbox + diff - redline shockproof - all changed less than 1000km ago Better pics coming after it's detailed (if it's not sold in the meantime).
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