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As the title suggests I'm after a set of Splitfire coilpacks for a RB25 Neo - part number SF-DIS008 Prefer pick up western sydney

Anybody have any recommendations of gear oil to use for break in period? I heard of people using Redline MT-90 but curious if people have any other opinions. The transmission is brand new from Nissan. Cheers.

Setup : RB25 NEO,R33 GTT Gearbox,OS Giken Triple Disk, Ram Hydralic Throwout bearing. It all began when I drove my car out the drive way and for a while now my clutch fingers made a strange noise when depressed but after the car is warmed up it disappeared and next day it returns. The bleed line for my hydralic went loose the day I drove it out . Bleed over the system then to realize the clutch cylinder was bad. Change it bleed over and I wasn't able to disengage the clutch,after that I gave the bearing more travel to see if the clearance/travel of the bearing change. Did that no luck on disengagement. Clutch has life I took down the set up and all the disk was stuck together due to grease from the spline and wd40 I sprayed on the fingers to see if it ease the noise(stupid of me). What else could it be that isn't disengaging the clutch

Hi everyone, been searching forums & Google for a while now struggling to find detailed info on my question... I have an r33 gtst (engine out currently) hks 3037s top mount & many other mods including a genuine greddy plenum. My question is how do I go about gaining the midrange loss back from the plenum? A few posts in various forums said a spacer between the plenum & the head. So this leads me to my questions below 1. How thick should the spacer be? 2. Did it cause any fittment issues? 3. Can you use the same bolts to fit the plenum back on or longer ones to suit? 4. to people who have done this was it really noticeable dyno/road feel? I'm not here to get plenum choice advice or what somoneones opinion on my setup is or why plazmaman this & greddy that...... just trying to find info on the greddy spacer idea & if it works well.... To anyone who has done this please shed some light on this topic, tell us what car/engine u have & how thick the spacer is + what were your gains.... Thanks in advance Ps hope everyone had a merry Christmas & have a happy & safe new year!

Hey what's going on I'm new to this site just purchased my first Skyline. It's a 1992 R32 gtst with a rb25 Neo swap. I'm looking to put her away this winter and build her up. Right now I'm looking into body kits. Hopefully I find a decent company producing some good work. Would really love a 324 kit.

So just done ffp on my neo (greddy style) along with the fuel rail so I bought a sard fpr it’s a knock off. Trying to set it a at 43psi without vacuum but it won’t raise or lower fuel pressure. It’s static at about 39psi ? I have it setup like so : tank>filter>fuel rail>fpr>return to tank. Anything i have missed or is it just a bad fpr? I know it’s a knockoff but it’s new and it should work?

Hi everyone, okay so the story is I’m going to put a holset hx32/35 hybrid top mount on my rb25det NEO. Got most if not all parts/supporting mods ready. I bought injectors for R35/350z fitment a while ago (Before I bought plenum and rail) as they are top feed and fit the NEO....But I would very much like a Front facing plenum as it completes the looks, I know you don’t gain performance with the greddy knock off but this thread isn’t to debate that. FFP is mainly for looks and easier access to maintenance & repairs. Anyway... here is a pic with the injectors fully seated. It looks that they are too far back. They look recessed by about half an inch? I haven’t fitted these front plenums before. But this doesn’t look right? Surely the injector must be further in towards the front of plenum/mating face area? Secondly, are the supposed to fit inside the first hole in the rail? Because it doesn’t. It’s not a snug fit. It’s very loose. I bought a 419 piece o ring set off eBay and surprise not one of the o rings fit inside the rail. I guess I will need to take injectors and rail to o ring specialist and get some? Picture 3 is with another o ring on the injector, pic 5 is without second o ring fully pressed into the rail. In the meantime I’m just going to run standard rail and standard injectors on the greddy knock off manilfold. If anyone has done this setup before or similar situation please any info will be greatly appreciated. Rory.

I am in the process of doing a transmission swap to my skyline. I bought a pull type Neo transmission and clutch. I know I'll also need pull clutch slave cylinder but is the master cylinder for RB engines universal or will I need a pull type as well? Any feedback is appreciated thanks!

Is it possible that tight valve clearance on the exhaust side can cause little to no vacuum on idle...... This is regards to a RB25DET NEO i got...Re done the head installing tomei 1.2 head gasket and lapp over the valves however after that was done the intake side was at nissan specs of 0.012 and the exhaust is way tighter(0.014 to 0.015) on all 12 of the exhaust... will this cause such issue... secondly my last chance was to check to see if my timing was off

Hey guys, I am new here. Seems there is a little bit difference. The carbon fiber one is for rb25, and another one is stock on rb25neo.

What's up guys I'm new to the skyline scene I just purchased an R32 gtst with rb25 Neo. When my car was delivered the odometer and speedometer wasn't working. Took apart the dash doesn't seem like there's an issue. a friend was telling me the later year rb gets it's signal off diff, earlier rb is mechanical gets it off the trans.ones analong ones electronic? How can I fix this or is it something else ? Thanks

Hi Everyone, Everything started when I was doing 110 on Hume highway and the water temp. went up so I lifted up and cruised until it came back to normal. Then I felt like I'm losing power (my oil temp gauge doesn't work) and as it got worse I rolled the window down and heard clicking noise from engine. I tried to pull over and engine died immediately before I turn it off. There was huge amount of smoke coming from engine bay from all around engine which looked like burning oil. whole process since I felt loss of power till engine died took about 3-4 minutes. Long story short, I towed the car home and next day I went to see what's wrong and a water hose behind engine was exploded and engine was completely dry and engine didn't start at all. I pulled intake out and there's oil every where. once I got to turbo, compressor is floating in oil. Please help me with your knowledge or similar experience. I'm ready for everything being engine complete rebuild with new turbo. please leave your suggestion if I should rebuild, get new rb25 or any other engine and rough estimate for cost I should expect. It's a 99 R34 gtt rb25det neo and I would like to repair and keep the car.

Hey everyone I’m doing a clutch job on my rb25 stagea and have got to the stage of replacing the rear main seal. This bloody rear main seal retainer WILL NOT BUDGE I’ve tryed for hours to break the gasket seal but have gotten no where. On my first attempt to remove the retainer I snapped it basically in half “pics attached “ trying to pry it off from the block. I have got another one but at still struggling to get the broken one off. There is very little room to get to each side of the retainer from under the car with a screwdriver or pry bar. After doing some research I found that you don’t even have to take the retainer off to get the seal out but it’s too late now I need to replace it. If you guys know any little tricks or tips to get it off that would be greatly appreciated??

Hey all! going from pink label to r35 maf when my stagea goes for a tune. Running nistune. just wondering if i should go through the extra effort of wiring the maf into cooler piping or put it in the 4 inch intake? Car will have no BOV and max flutter so not sure if thatll affect it. expanding on that! If in either location where in the piping should the sensor go?

Just wondering if anyone here has put in a bee*r limiter into there rs4s or any car running an rb25 neo and neo ecu, only asking because from what I’ve found online the s2 an neo pinouts are slightly different? (Correct me if I’m wrong of course) also buying a bee*r but it’s second hand so I don’t think it’ll come with any installation papers so any advice is greatly appreciated! Apologies if this has been asked and answered before, I haven’t been able to find much out but maybe I’m searching the wrong terms. Either way definitely looking for any help! Also if there’s a neo pin out sheet as well as what each wire does for the bee*r because as I stated I believe it won’t be coming with any sort of instructions so info on what each wire means and where it should hopefully go to is extremely appreciated! still tryna learn as much as I can about rbs and all the little bits with it so even little bits of info is amazing! Thanks again! Ron.

hey guys im currently looking at buying a new turbo for my stagea kinda wanna buy it tonight so i can be ready for the all jap day coming up what is the standard turbo flange size? what is a good replacement turbo? what are some good coils? spitfire? what else should i be replacing? it has 100tho ks already had timing belt and water pump done im going to replace the crack sensor, the sensor on the air intake (o2 sensor ?) and anything else that i need to do thanks guys

Is it possible that tight valve clearance on the exhaust side can cause little to no vacuum on idle...... This is regards to a RB25DET NEO i got...Re done the head installing tomei 1.2 head gasket and lapp over the valves however after that was done the intake side was at nissan specs of 0.012 and the exhaust is way tighter(0.014 to 0.015) on all 12 of the exhaust... will this cause such issue... secondly my last chance was to check to see if my timing was off Running tomei poncams 260 9.15 Intake and 262 9.15 Exhaust

Hi all i have a stock rb25 neo for road use. I'm considering my turbo options, current spec is gtr 570cc injectors, hks 2530, power fc, intercooler and the usual bolt on stuff ive had plenty of skylines and silvias but never had anything top mounted so I think it's time i have not got massive power figures on my agenda, but response and solid boost while not pushing the neo to hard. I've narrowed it to the gen2 5558 precision or the gtx3076 gen2, any opinions ? i will either use 6 boost, sinco or a CRG manifold, v band likely and need advice on a wastegate too, is 40mm enough? It will run 98ron and I have a r35 gtr afm which I hope will cope ? thanks

So im trying to refresh my setup to get more response, torque, this is purely a drift car, but i cant seem to decide what would work out to achieve my goals.... I was planning to get tomei cams, 260 9.15mm, but as far as ive seen the stock ones give a better low end/mid torque setup, springs and retainers ill hold it off for now since i dont wanna rev more, i want low end torque.... exhaust manifold ive been reading that the stock one being a log style, would give better spool.... only thing that comes to mind right now is a standalone ecu and switch from 100 octane to VP fuels 109 octane or VP 113 with lead and give it more timing.... maybe even switch the headgasket to a thinner one to get 10.5:1 CR What are the options for these engines to improve it torque wise and in the low rpm range? RB25 Neo specs: -Rb26 Crank, CP 26 Pistons, Eagle rods -RB25 Neo head, quench pads removed, 2.5mm cometic HG, compression ratio is around 9.5:1 -Stock exhaust manifold, Godspeed intake manifold -Holset HE351 turbo -550cc rx7 injectors -Z32 ecu, chipped -Oil control mods, crank collar, jun oil pump, restrictors etc etc. Last time i broke the exhaust poncam installing it so im back to stock cams. But now im stumped. i dont know whats the best plan, budget is not very big and the turbo selection was made because i can easily repair and replace that turbine without hazzle (im in a Caribbean island), thats the dyno sheet, its pretty close to my last dyno on a stock rb25 neo, before mixing the rb26 forged parts. Compression ratio stayed pretty much the same so i guess thats why. (Stock is 9.5 i think right?) and i had 450hp @ 23psi before, so im pretty much in the same position as before. That was last friday, i broke the clutch on sunday, it was slipping so i think thats why the dyno sheet has a weird peak in 2 places. speed remained constant so thats why we ignored that we had a clutch problem but it was definitely slipping on the track @ WOT

For sale! Brand new link g4+ PnP ECU With airtemp sensor and XS loom. $2100 Brand new 1000cc Bosch injectors 14mm 3/4 length Come with plugs Set of 6 $600 Will do both for $2500 Located Brisbane

Full set of brand new Ferrea 1mm valve for RB25 det neo.Part # F1934P & F1936P $1100

I got this car in pretty rough shape but it had a running 25 neo, haltech and a specialties engine harness. It didnt run well, awful ecu calibration, blown tomei turbo, a fuel pump flying around the fuel tank and a parasitic drain on the battery. Ive had it for about a 1.5 years now at the time of starting this thread and Ive been thru every part of this car. Ive converted to electric fans, created a few relay circuits to eliminated the battery drain, relocated the battery and this list goes on and on. Its a fun side project so things aren't in a rush and I don't daily drive the car. It sees a few track days but I mostly run my Camaro ss for those. All work is done by me in my garage, even the ECU calibration. The over all paint job was sent to a body shop though. So current mod list is Engine-Rb25 neo stock with smoothed exhaust port humps Tomei MX8265 rebuilt, 3inch side exit, Greddy FMIC, Haltech platinum,Tomei timing belt, Denso 550cc, zerofab fuel rail, DW400 pump, unknown IM and 90mm TB, grimmspeed boost controller, Ebay radiator,hks cap, mishimoto fans, Spec stage 2+ clutch, 12lb flywheel Chassis- S15 Helical LSD, delrin subframe bushings, spherical rear tie rods and rucas, KBee coilovers altered spring rates, 300zx calipers, powerstop trackday pads, steel lines, Impul R5 wheels, 255/40r17 R888r, corner balanced, half stripped interior r32 gtr seats, personal steering wheel, gktech shifter springs and brass collar, poly steering rack bushings, spherical tension rods, s13 rear sway bar Seized and rusted ISR coilovers that came with the car had to be cut off the front stud Clutch fan failure is the reason I went electric New Shoes Then on to body work, dent repair and deleting the type M wing and making holes for the GTR wing Subframe refresh The used Kbee coilovers needed new bushings but I cant get in touch with them so I fitted some VW bus sway bar bushings into them haha nasty sound deading removal with dry ice Align and balance, thats the before weights Stock turbo dyno 248whp at 14psi