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  1. Hey guys, I'm back with another tutorial that I made (thanks to isolation). This is on a how to swap the RB25 bottom end to a RB30 bottom end with a 25 head in a R34 (R33s and R32 should be kinda similar i think) that I did last year. I had to split the tutorial into 3 parts (each part is like 15mins). It starts with preping the RB30 block, to taking out the RB25, and then putting in the RB30/25 and starting it. The reason why I did an RB30 swap was not because of an upgrade but because my RB25 was showing up bad results on the comp tests and there were cheap RB30s going around (I actually made money out of selling parts from the RB30 that I didn't need lol). The goal for this car is only to be a daily responsive streeter on pump fuel (won't ever take it to the track). It's my first time ever doing something like this (I had no help, did this on my own), so take it as a guide line. If I were to do this again, I would definitely use a proper engine crane and take the whole engine out including the gearbox next time, but yeah... this was a real poor mans job and it got the job done and I've been driving this RB30/25DET Neo everyday to and from work as my daily and I've never had a problem with it (have been clocking 5000+ Kms on it as of 10/4/2020). Here's the videos: Part 1: Part 2: Part 3: I'm really happy with the outcome. Considering I knew nothing about RBs or any engine before I bought this R34. I learnt everything from researching (a shit load) on these forums, so thanks SAU, here's me giving back. The car ended up making 323.8 HP on the dyno with my OP6 highflow turbo which is a bit too small for this engine. So I will go with a bigger one in the near future. List of mods on my car previously that I brought over to the RB30 swap: HyperGear G2 RB25DET OP6 highflow turbo with ballbearing 3" turbo back exhaust 100mm thick FMIC Splitfire coil packs Xspurt 525cc injectors HDI EBC Nistune ECU Z32 AFM Walbro 255lph fuel pump (hard wire mod) 98RON Exedy HD clutch External oil cooler Koyorad all aluminum radiator Just something to add here on the side if anyone was interested (kinda like a build page, but I might as well put it here). This was my whole budget explained: So the total amount that I spent on this build/recon/swap was $3415. I bought a complete RB30 engine (without the box) for $150. Apparently this engine was used in a TAFE course for mechanic students to practise timing stuff on, so the pisons had heaps of screw driver marks on. A recon was in the picture anyways because I want this engine to last for ages. So I only wanted to keep the block, crank and rods. I sold everything els (head, alternator, ecu ect) for $240. That's already a profit of $90 lol! The reconditioning of the RB30 block and RB25 head was the most expensive out of the whole budget costing $1420. The recon from Harris Engines in Perth: $400 - Bore and torque plate hone $190 - Face block $180 - Machine and fit crank collar $90 - Acid bath $90 - Face/deck RB25 head $50 - Acid bath head $90 - Face flywheel $150 - Fitment of pistons to rods $180 - Balance rotating assembly All other things: $270 - 1mm oversized Hypatec RB30ET set of pistons + Hastings Rings $253.45 - RB25 ARP Head stud kit (202-4301) from wolf racing $261.25 - RB25DET Neo genuine nissan gasket kit $106.49 - RB30 ACL race main STD bearing set $88 - RB30 ACL race conrod STD bearing set $30 - RB30 small end rod bushes/bearing set $99 - RB crank collar from Lewis Engines $38.75 - RB oil restrictors (one 1.5mm and one blank one) $38 - RB30 brass welsh plugs $13.71 - RB spigot bush $38.98 - RB genuine nissan timing belt fastner kit $41.5 - genuine nissan thermostat $78.14 - Genuine nissan R34 pull type thrust bearing $110.5 - Genuine nissan RB25 exhaust manifold fastner kit $43.2 - Dayco 94407 (T866) timing belt $72.11 - Mamba RB30/25 turbo water braided line kit $81.59 - Braided -4AN hose + fittings for the external VTC feed from Enzed $330 - Dyno tuned car by C-Red in Perth All of the labour except for the recon and tuning was done by me.
  2. Hey forum I am back once again for the advice of the pros. I have not posted in awhile but been doing a lot of reading and topic watching, been a member for awhile and I must say this forum has helped me out tremendously. Had running a built rb25 in a 95 R33 with extensive mods for years and only recently cause of my negligence I have broken it. Sad sad day very sad , had an oil leak that i neglected and spun the rod bearing which messed up the crank and I said long ago if I ever had to go back into the engine it was rb30 or nothing. So guess what its rb30 time. I really only have one major question that I need advice on and it is as the topic says, what would be the better choice to go with if you ultimately had to make a choice between pistons or rods for a rb30 build? Car will be a daily driver and only looking for 400 to 500 wheel hp for now. If I decide to go any higher which will be awhile from now I will take it down and install the part/parts I need. I looked through all the threads and no real definitive answer thats why i decided to make a topic. Car is a 95 R33 gtst and I basically have everything I need for the install and with the budget I have opted to focus more on oil flow, oil return, block and head tidy up. For build I have sourced: N/A rb30 with oil and coolant holes already drilled Acl bearings main and rod 1.3mm MLS head gasket Reimax oil gears N1 oil pump N1 water pump Crank collar Head drain mod Vct external feed Valve stem seals Using hx40 turbo, meth injection, velocity stack intake mani, ss t4 twin scroll exhaust mani, 850cc injectors, walbro e85 400lph intank fuel pump, pfc, etc.... from cars previous setup. After all of this from what is left of the budget I have a choice to make between rods or pistons and do not know which to chose that's why I am calling on you to help me chose the better of the two that suits my build. All suggestions are welcome. I was thinking pistons as i can strengthen the rods up a little by replacing the rod bolts. What do you guys think?
  3. Hello! Nothing is wrong with my car, all gauges read correctly, the car fees responsive, and it overall is functional and great. However, with the cold temperatures, I noticed there is smoke coming out of my hood (the hood is vented) but I thought it must’ve been my valve cover filters that are venting to the atmosphere. I checked and to my surprise I found a whole substance on the exhaust manifold and turbo flange. I’m guessing it might be a leak? What do you guys think?
  4. For Sale, OSgenkin twin plate clutch (push type suit rb25 series one and rb26 32-33 or rb30 etc , rebuilt by Direct clutches in Brisbane (with receipt) , done 3000ks in a show car so other than a few dyno runs and 2nd-3rd gear pulls on the street it's done stuff all work, never seen the track. Was working perfectly when removed and had a good peddle feel and never slipped at 400rwkw Only selling due to going manualised auto Will come with the correct thrust bearing to take out all the guess work for setup 1250ono Pics available via request
  5. WTS: OPEN TO OFFERS - Just want the stuff gone WILL POST AT BUYERS EXPENSE ****RB30/Engine Bay Parts**** S1/2 Coils x4 $15 each Throttle body x2 $20 each Auto ECU covers $5 S1/2 Air box lid $10 ****Outside Parts**** S3 Passenger Side headlight $30 S1/2 Bonnet - Needs repaint - In primer $30 S1/2 Passenger side Gaurd $30 S1/2 Filler Pannel $20 Drivers Side mirror - Has broken tabs $10 S2 Skyline Grill $30 Horns x2 $10 each S1/2 Tail light middle trim $5 S1/2 Rear boot garnish. missing all screws $5 Stock R14 rims with non RCW tires x2 $10 each Front Swaybar - factory $30 ****Interior Parts**** Ash tray - $5 Random S1/2 grey dash buttons $15 Each Random S3 Black Dash Buttons $15 Each Dash Clock $10 S1/2 Dash surround - No buttons or Vents $15 S1/2 Dash surround - With Buttons and Vents $40 Wiper stork Non Adjuster $15 S3 Radio Surround with Nissan Badge - $10 4 Gauge cluster $30 Each I have a few S1/2 Centre light wiring loom $10 Steering wheel surround $15 Window winders - Brown $5 each Window Winder backing circles - Light brown and Brown $2 each Interior Door handle surrounds - Light brown and Brown $5 each Brown Vinyl Roof liner $20 Brown wagon Side roof trims $20 for both Brown Glove box x2 left $15 Each Brown sun Visors: Drivers side x3 Passenger side x2 $10 each Carpeted Kick Pannels $10 each Air Con A/c interior unit(Sits under the dash, next to the heater)$20 Air Con A/C Rad fan $15 Brown GX Drivers Seat $15 Brown GXE Passenger seat $20 Black Painted Dash $80
  6. Hi guys. Feel free to delete this post if it's already been asked but I cannot find anything on google showing how people calculate the oil clearance without bearings installed. I have an idea of how to, but I just need someone to confirm my calculations for my bearing/oil clearances before I buy the bearings. This is my first ever build and first ever RB30/25. I've never done something like this and I'm trying to do as much labour as I can before I send it to the machinists to save $$, so bare with me. I have measured the journals with a micrometer and mains + big end tunnels with a bore gauge (without bearings installed). I'm going to be using ACL Race bearings for mains and big ends. I need to know what bearings to choose for my desired oil clearance. Now here's the thing. By looking at the ACL RB30 bearings spec page, the thickness of 1 standard big end bearing shell is 1.503mm. Am I correct?. And 1 main shell = 1.827mm. So, if I were to go with a 0.025 oversized bearings, the thickness of one 0.025 big end bearing shell would be: 1.503 + (0.025/2) = 1.5155mm. Correct? Because it's adding 0.0125mm on each shell to make the diameter of the 2 shells 0.025mm bigger right? And thickness of one 0.025 main bearing shell would be 1.8395mm. Ok, so calculating oil clearance would be tunnel OD minus the thickness of 2 bearing shells, then minus the crank shaft's ID to get oil clearance right? So, for example my #1 main tunnel OD = 58.682mm. If I used standard main bearing, the thickness of 1 shell is 1.827mm. My #1 main crankshaft journal ID = 54.962mm. So calculating the oil clearance would be 58.682 - (1.827x2) = 55.028 - 54.962 = 0.066mm of oil clearance which equals to about 2.5 thou. If I were to use 0.025 oversized then I would calculate it like: 58.682 - (1.8395x2) = 55.003 - 54.962 = 0.041mm of oil clearance (1.6 thou). So calculating all my oil clearances using standard bearings on the mains would be 0.057mm to 0.077mm (2.2thou to 3thou) of oil clearance. Big ends oil clearance using standard bearings = 0.032mm to 0.053mm (1.2thou to 2thou) Calculating oil clearance using 0.025 oversized bearings: Mains = 0.032mm to 0.052mm (1.2thou to 2thou). Big ends = 0.007mm to 0.028mm (0.3thou to 1.1thou). Calculating oil clearance on big ends using HX (thinner bearing shell thickness of 1.49mm) would be = 0.058mm to 0.079mm (2.3thou to 3.1thou). Another question I have is what would be the best oil clearance for an RB30/25DET Neo that will only be used for street use with about 300kw (max) with a crank collar and RB25neo oil pump limiting the revs to 6500 or 7000rpm (with the correct oil restrictions in block). I might shim the oil pump spring to give it more pressure if needed. My goal is just a responsive and reliable streeter engine that will last years. I've read somewhere that someone qouted Qubes saying that he recommends 2.5thou oil clearance on the mains and 2.2thou on the big ends for RB30s. Can someone confirm this? So should I go with standard ACL Race bearings on the mains and standard on the big ends or HX on the big ends (3.1thou max though?). Thanks.
  7. Hey guys just looking at an rb30 and was wondering how to identify the engine (turbo/nonturbo) by it’s block the numbers I got from the block are 088543a 7219b 67s
  8. Located: Ballarat WILL POST AT BUYERS EXPENSE ****RB30 Parts**** R31 Auto Gearbox Computer (Located under passenger seat) -A64-000 J29 $10 ono -A64-000 J41 x2 $10 each ono Charcoal Canister $20 Power steering Res $20 Idle Air adjust with FICD $20 Pressure Reg – Solenoid Valve $20 Air Reg x2 $10 each Coils x4 $10 each Pressure Reg $10 Throttle body x2 1Missing the Throttle cable connector $10 each Throttle cable holder Block bracket $5 Starter Motor $25 ****Outside Parts**** Chrome Door Handles – All Except Drivers Side $25 Black Door Handle – Front Passenger side $5 Bonnet Hinges Both Left and right $5 each Fuel Cap $5 Front Bar Indicators – Both sides $10 Chrome Strips that go above the top of the doors – both sides $25 Side Indicators – Both sides $10 Wagon Drivers Side Tail light $10 S3 Headlight Drivers Side $15 S3 Headlight Passenger side x3 $15 each S2 spot lights $30 S3 Filler Bar $10 S2 Filler Bar x2 $10 S2 Bonnet - Needs repaint - $30 S2 Passenger Gaurd $15 S3 Passenger and Drivers Side Gaurds $20 each Drivers Side mirror - Has broken tabs $15 Rear Axels $40 LSD - Needs Rebuild $30 ****Interior Parts**** Ash tray - $5 Map light mounting braket - $5 6 Gauge Cluster $40 - not sure if works Random grey dash buttons - Let me know what you after Grey dash Insert x2 - $30 Black Dash incert - $40 Indicator/Headlight stork x3 $20 each Wiper stork 1x Adjuster $20 x1 Non Adjuster $10 Heater/Aircon Control unit $20 Bonnet release cable $20 S3 Radio Surround with Nissan Badge - $10 Grey Interior Parts: Fuse flap $5 Rear View Mirror $10 Passenger side Sun visor $15 Steering wheel surround $15 Wiring: Front door Wire looms - both Doors $10 each S2 Centre light wiring loom $5 Fuse Box $40 Interior/Fusebox/Engine bay/Relay/Headlight Loom - $200 Other random stuff
  9. Hi all, Does anyone know what the thread and pitch size is for the Heater hose (return I think?) fitting/attachment that threads into the block. I assume all RBs have the same thread on these? I've uploaded a pic of it (block is upside down). It sits on the intake side near the top rear of the block. I'm doing up a RB30/25. As we all know, you have to swap out the RB30 one and put the 25 one in there because the 25 has only 1 barbed outlet for the heater hose. I had to grind the old one out of the RB30 with a dremel because it was rusted on there so badly, and thinking the RB25 one will be the same, I just want to get a brand new one. If anyone could tell me the thread and pitch size of this fitting (or even better, the Nissan part number!) that would be much appreciated for me and everyone els looking for this in the future, because I've tried googling, and googling and nothing. Thanks!
  10. Who has used one? Has anyone cracked a block since fitting one? Discuss.
  11. Hey Guys, So I've blown a headgasket in my rb25 r32 gtst. I've had a few problems with it with the MAF and some idle issues, but now the headgasket has died. I've been tossing up between just fixing the rb25 head gasket or leaving it for a little bit and building a rb25/30 on the side. If anyone has done it would you say its worth it and what power are you pushing and how much did it cost? What do I do?? Thanks
  12. What are some best recommended machine shop and engine builders for RB Motors. Need some names and contacts to start researching, ones I found on this site seems outdated. Looking for ones that can also do CNC head porting.
  13. Hi all, I seem to have a re-occurring exhaust cam/lifter wear problem on my RB30/26 and was wondering if anyone else has seen this ? Originally cams were Kelford 182E's with Tomei lifters and after 500 miles or so the engine started making a increasingly loud ticking noise. After pulling the cam covers off I found some of the exhaust cam lobes and liftere were showing signs of wear. One lobe and lifter in particular was very bad (near cap 5). The lifter had actually mushroomed as can be seen in the pictures below.There seemed to be plenty of oil in the cam covers so I was advised it may be a material hardness issue on the cam or lifter. The inlet cam/followers were ok. The cams were replaced with Tomei cams/lifters and after around 2000 miles the same wear is apparent on one of the new exhaust cam lobes but in a different position this time - lobe/lifter 2. Again plenty of oil seems to be up there but I'm wondering if this must be some sort of oil supply issue to the exhaust cam area. Again the inlet cam is fine. Checked valve clearances and most are within tolerance still apart from number 2 exhaust lobe/lifter which now has a big clearance and rather than mushrooming it looks like the lifter now has a slight bowl in its top. The engine has a N1 oil pump with wide drive collar and blocked of rear feed to head and Tomei front oil restrictor to head. Plenty of oil pressure measured in the block. Anyone seen this before ? Cheers Stu
  14. Hey Just wondering if anyone has any review on Kulig Engineering Rb30 awd adaptor, there is a guy selling one near me. I can't seem to find any details or information in my Google searching Here is there site http://www.kuligeng.com.au/autoengineering.html Thank you for the help Rob
  15. JE Forged RB30ET piston JE forged RB30 turbo pistion. Its brand new just been fitted to the engine. I got sent the wrong piston for my build as i needed a non turbo one and after installing it we found out that it is not the right piston that i needed and not the right CR ratio for my setup. Its 87mm Part number : 253900SRP Rings are all setup and ready Can find more info about the piston on the link below, just look up part number (253900SRP) http://precisionintl.com/CategorySearch.aspx?Cat=1&Brand=SRP&Make=28 $850
  16. note: I am advertising this on behalf of someone else FOR SALE: Link Plus ECU in unused condition This ECU suits twin cam RB heads and is plug-in. What you will receive: USB data cable Wiring Loom MAP Sensor Water temp sensor Adapter box Air temp sensor Installation manual The ECU itself Some capabilities of this ECU: Variable fuel pump speed and relay control Interfaces with engine coolant temperature, fuel temperature and intake air temperature Boost control solenoid compatibility Variable Valve Timing control A/C fan control Launch Control Advanced fuel injector control Intercooler water spray, vehicle speed and shift light capability, there are too many features to list here! $2,500 Or Best Offer, Located in Bendigo, Victoria Please don't hesitate to enquire for more information or pictures, the seller can be reached on the following phone number: 0417 513 871
  17. Hi there first skyline owner here it's a 1989 series 3 silhouette with turbod rb30. It has a high mount t3/t4 turbo at moment screamer pipe with 60 mm external waste gate, intercooler, I'm bout to install 550cc injectors and am looking around at after market ecu as only have vl turbo ecu at the moment any info on ideas of what would suit me would be good. Oh only planning on 10 to 12 psi.. for now.. cheers
  18. Is there any N/A foward facing intakes been looking but all for turbo engines cheers
  19. Hey guys, looking at the many HKS, HPI and Trust oil cooler setups. It appears they attach on top of the stock RB26 cooler setups, Im looking for one to completely bypass all that and go direct to the block. Requirements: 1) Has provision for v-cam/both OEM oil sensors. Hopefully these are located after the oil has passed through the oil filter. HKS requires oil line location after filter or adding screen mesh in line. 2) The filter can be stacked on top of plate or relocated. 3) Is thermostat equipped. Am I overthinking this? Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  20. Hello, I would like to buy rb30 s2 bottom end. I'm writing from Finland. I inquired about the engine of the following companies: Carpart, Ford and Holden Parts, Ozwreck, Holdent. Relevant certainly also affected by that I am from Finland, but I have tentatively arranged for sea transport. Does anybody have any spare stock for that engine? I can also suggest places to inquire about. I apologize for my bad English.
  21. Hey again. So I currently have a standard RB30 fan and it is crazy loud. I've heard that the design of the RB25 fan is superior and runs a lot quieter. I am just wondering if the RB25 fan and fan clutch will bolt right up and fit without modification at all?
  22. so basically im looking to build a 30de engine i want to go high comp na for whatever reasons that dont really matter at this point haha 1 point left cant drive turbo blah blah blah all the usual shit THE BLOCK what i want to build consists of a 30e block, crank and rods, 25de pistons shave the block 1mm to get the pistons up a bit because they sit 1mm further down the 30e pistons. THE HEAD this will be a det neo head with re lapped valves stock springs. either 250ish degree regrinds or 260 degree poncam drop ins with an adjustable exhaust cam gear and stock intake stuff to keep variable timing. im going to just skim the head this should bring the compression to somewhere around 12:1. im going to grub screw the oil gallerie in the block and run a head oil drain kit. im going to drill and tap an oil gallery in the side of the block to run a hard line up to the vct stuff pics below. and ill be porting the head myself a decent amount but i wont be going crazy. i need advice on what i should do for the intake manifold. do i a lave the stock neo intake manifold on to get the engine in and work out any bugs. B use a neo freddy plenum. or C relocate the vct solenoid and go to rb26 itbs using an adapter plate and some ram tubes on the itbs of some sort. the other thing i need to know is exactly where to put the stud for the new tensioner for the timing belt and if it differs from the standard r33 25det head conversion.. my final goal is as close to 160kw as possible on e85 and im going to be revving it as high as it wants to make power. i was thinking cap the revs at 7500 cause i reckon it will drop off before then anyway. anyone got any tips or advice on things i should change or shit i just completely overlooked. anything really cause this is all theory in my head based off other builds
  23. Selling up on my track build i bought a while ago, to pursue other investments and have no time, have heaps of spares to go with it if someone wants to start there own timeattack/circuit build, it will be sold rolling with stock suspension on 17 x 9 P1 Buddy Clubs (no front brakes unless sold with 8 pot fronts) Front end cut off ready for tube front and tubs cut out. It Has - Stock rear brakes (ksport fronts can be sold with extra) Interior Loom Engine Loom Doors (with power windows still) All Glass Interior Floor Carpet boot lid (no spoiler) OEM guards OEM front bar Front end cut off ready for tube front and tubs cut, Boot Plastics - OEM fuel tank and surge tank set up, - OMP Race Seat, - Steering Wheel $5500 for roller Spares to get with it! Nismo 1.5 way front and rear (Brand new) $3400 K Sport * pot fronts (brand new) $1900 Rear Dogbones and Discs to run 335MM Discs @ rear stock calipers $450 TOP Stage V3 Wing (new) $2100 Top Stage Carbon Headlight Panels $400 R34 GTR 6 speed Getrag Conversion $7500 BM57 Upgrade $250 ABS delete Kit $300 Shitloads of other spares also i probably havent mentioned. Will sell for 18K as a package. (3k off) Via Inbox or 0403485395
  24. Hi guys, Selling my RB26 Hypertune intake manifold and 100mm throttle body. Was on a 26/30 and was removed a few times so has scratches on side. Not really visible when in car but priced accordingly. Selling due to parted out vehicle. Single throttle body setup, does not come with injectors or fuel rail, just manifold and throttle body. Asking $1600 ono Located in Melbourne Vic. Christian 0423756123
  25. Hey guys just joined, been using the page for awhile very helpful thanks. As title states unsure if power figures are low or normal/expected. I've had my head rebuilt (will post Pic of cam specs) camtech cam, 1mm oversized stainless steel valves, Port & polished, new lifters, cracked tested, match ported manifold etc. Stock bottom end Bolted everything together took it in for a nistune and dyno tune, had a few minor issues. He finished the tune ended up with 108kW and around 240nm. Just thought it would produce more kW with the head work. Mods: rebuilt head, match ported manifold, 6-3-1 extractors 2.25inch straight though, believe hifow cat, nistune, k&n podfilter Thank you
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