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Found 30 results

  1. Alrighty guys, So i've had a number of skylines over the last 5 years, since getting my first one in 2014. A number of R33 drift cars, a R32 drift car in japan @ ebisu circuit (for sale atm if anyone is keen :D), my original green 32 which I've built up over the last 5 years to a 500hp rb25 neo street weapon (this is also for sale...) With the rising prices of GTR's these last few years..I thought I would never be able to afford a proper GTR without selling everything I own haha. I recently came across someone with a bare non rolling R32 GTR shell which luckily had not been posted for sale online. Luckily over the years, I have amassed quite a number of GTR body parts. The plan is to pretty well fully rebuild the car with as much new items as possible (while not going crazy over the top). This will take me a long time, but I hope to keep these page updated (unlike my first build post haha).
  2. Hi Everyone, Everything started when I was doing 110 on Hume highway and the water temp. went up so I lifted up and cruised until it came back to normal. Then I felt like I'm losing power (my oil temp gauge doesn't work) and as it got worse I rolled the window down and heard clicking noise from engine. I tried to pull over and engine died immediately before I turn it off. There was huge amount of smoke coming from engine bay from all around engine which looked like burning oil. whole process since I felt loss of power till engine died took about 3-4 minutes. Long story short, I towed the car home and next day I went to see what's wrong and a water hose behind engine was exploded and engine was completely dry and engine didn't start at all. I pulled intake out and there's oil every where. once I got to turbo, compressor is floating in oil. Please help me with your knowledge or similar experience. I'm ready for everything being engine complete rebuild with new turbo. please leave your suggestion if I should rebuild, get new rb25 or any other engine and rough estimate for cost I should expect. It's a 99 R34 gtt rb25det neo and I would like to repair and keep the car.
  3. Hi guys, I recently got my block back from machinists and its missing dowels etc which is fine as I will replace those. But behind the oil pump there is a hole in the block shown in the pictures below and im not sure if its meant to be sealed or left open. From memory I thought there may have been a little steel ball bearing lodged in there. Not sure. So for all those guys that have built rb26's or have pictures that can be referenced I would really appreciate some help. Thanks Jason
  4. Indestructible 26 drift pig Hey recently purchased a 180 with a 26 converted to rear wheel it's running 85 and has most of the good bits the kiddies go cray cray for but for some reason they left the internals alone and after some practice Iam hearing horrible knocking from bottom end it has the n1 oil pump and for some reason a r33 crank any tips on creating a stable build built for hi revs?
  5. now my car is sold I won't need these parts anymore, everything is brand new some even still in original packaging except for the mirrors, located in Sydney but happy to ship prices are VERY cheap so get in quick! 1. RB Cometic head gasket brand new still in box $250 2. ARP head studs for RB25 - brand new in box $180 3. Tomei Oil Gallery Restrictors / orifice x2 @ ea- brand new in original packaging, $20 ea 4. Front Lower Control arm polyurethane bushes- brand new never used $50 5. rear upper control arm bushes - Brand new in original packaging $30 6. Front lower control arm ball joints- RWD model only, brand new in box $40 7. R33 side mirrors- white, paint condition average, drivers side doesn't fold in automatically, but still folds out, otherwise everything still fine $30 Please PM me if interested
  6. Hi guys, I am looking at rebuilding my R33 GTS-T gearbox. There must be someone here who has done it or at least a good write up because of how popular skylines are. I have found the factory manual for the r32 gtr by searching on these forums, from reading there are people who say its nearly impossible without the right pullers and others who say its simple. I have a 50 ton press at work and some simple snap on bearing pullers. Does anyone know where you can buy the synchros, bearings, shift forks and whatever else may be necessary to take out this rebuild? My local nissan dealerships are impossible to deal with, don't even know what synchros are and a technician I spoke to who found the parts by looking up the VIN said be looking at a 2-3 month wait and the prices were through the roof ($1100 +GST for bearings, synchros and a spacer!). Local shops quote me $1800 + parts too, very costly. Second hand box not an option as by this age would be in similar condition. Thank you.
  7. R32 GTR air con compressor rebuild? G'day, looking for recommendations for an air con rebuild for an R32 GTR. Asked for a leak test before finally getting a regas, turns out it's leaking from the compressor. The shop says it won't touch imports though because the parts are going to be hard to find. Now I'm looking for a place to help me out. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks
  8. I'm building an SR20, DM is one of the places I've talked to and as his focus is on circuit racing engines, rather than street/drag like a lot of other workshops I am interested in potentially using him to do the bottom end rather than doing it myself with a friend who's an engine builder by trade, but not experienced with SRs. He's mentioned he has Nismo internal testing data from the Super GT cars, and as he has one of them (an S15) and appears to be in the high end circuit space it all seems to check out. As it's not a cheap decision and I'm not local to him I was hoping to hear from anyone who's had experience with him. https://www.facebook.com/dmmsydney/
  9. Hey I recently just had my sump extended and pull apart the front diff.. I now need someone who can put it back together for me with all new seals can anyone recommend someone in Sydney?
  10. Built 2.6L There are a few thread around regarding built engines. Most threads i found are a few years old. Are people making decent power on built 2.6s or is everyone just going 3L now? i would prefer to stay 2.6, my thought process is build a 2.6 with great parts instead of an average 3L. also the 2.6 is an easier in out job as opposed to 3L. whats the verdict? what is everyone doing these days?
  11. Rebuilt RB25DET Lets skip to the juicy bit, this is my head after max 2km of testing, not running well before, thought valves may be the issue but they seem ok. Comp is at 140 (I know it's low) this is the intake side, no soot anywhere else, just in this one spot what the fk could've caused it? thanks Marni
  12. I'm building an SR20, DM is one of the places I've talked to and as his focus is on circuit racing engines, rather than street/drag like a lot of other workshops I am interested in potentially using him to do the bottom end rather than doing it myself with a friend who's an engine builder by trade, but not experienced with SRs. He's mentioned he has Nismo internal testing data from the Super GT cars, and as he has one of them (an S15) and appears to be in the high end circuit space it all seems to check out. As it's not a cheap decision and I'm not local to him I was hoping to hear from anyone who's had experience with him. https://www.facebook.com/dmmsydney/
  13. Heya, my dad gave me my r32 recently. I'm wondering what year it is? And also how much it would be registered/unregistered (running). Manual, turbo, brand new tyres. She drives beautifully but does need to work done now 🙄 Thank you☺️
  14. Hello All, I purchased an Rb26 motor back when I was a bachelor in 2011 in hopes of swapping into a 240z. Long story short, I met my wife, bought a house, got a dog and had two kids... Needless to say, the project has been put on hold. Now that life has somewhat settled, i'm thinking of taking up the project again. Since i'm new to RB's i'd thought I would start with the motor first. The motor I purchased came mostly disassembled except the head and block. I figured that i would familiarize with it starting with a fresh rebuild. Im not entirely a newb when it comes to mechanics, just have never rebuilt a motor before let alone an RB26. Any suggestion on instructionals or "how to's" would greatly be appreciated. All that to say is, I look forward to this community and its help.
  15. Must have a GTR Hey guys, Sam from Melbourne here have always loved skyline gtr's from when I was a kid. Never owned one for some reason, as I had plenty of opportunities to buy. I currently own a 2016 mustang GT. I have decided to sell to pursue a skyline gtr build. Hoping to get some research done to see which way I should go. Really looking forward to it.....
  16. CA18DET Rebuild or engine swap? Hi All, Recently my current CA18DET just blew up (cracked piston rings) and overheated. Ive got a spare engine lying around with unconfirmed kms (obtained from a previous purchase). My question is what would be the best path for just getting the car going again (and reliably). Should I refurbish the engine back to OEM? or just bolt her up with a new head gasket? Also, if anyone knows who is decent with CA's in Brissy, let me know. Cheers
  17. Hi all, I've got my blown RB25DET Neo stock bottom end for sale: Cylinders 3, 5 and 6 have lost compression and it appears that the rings are fused, however still rotates Two of the bores (5 and 6) are scratched deep enough to feel when you run your finger over the bore, there are less severe scratches on other cylinders too When the engine went it first started pushing a lot of coolant and finally went up heaps in crank case pressure and started blowing oil and smoke from the breathers There are some burn marks near the water galleries on the recently changed head gasket (Oct 2016, included with the engine) but we're not sure if these were there before, during or after the bottom end went I am not 100% certain of the root cause of the engine failure and there may be other damage to the block besides the bores This engine is off my 1998 R34 GTT sedan and was at 156,565km when pulled out, with the last 30,000 kms at around 275rwkw. The car was still movable when the engine was pulled but ran quite rough. Please let me know if you need any other information. The engine is currently at my mechanic in Melbourne south east, pick up only. What's included: Engine block, rotating assembly, head gasket, couple of other random gaskets. Possibly sump and oil pickup. I will keep the water pump. Asking $150 but open to offers. Note I will need buyer's driver license number for the receipt. Absolutely no warranty other than this might make a very awkward coffee table Thanks guys
  18. who/ where in adelaide should i go to have a skyline gearbox either rebuilt or bought and installed, preferably an exchange arangement? got a 32 with a stuffed gearbox which i am hoping to have taken out and a 2nd hand one exchanged in, maby rebuilf the stuffed one depending on cost differenced. looking city to north, nothing south
  19. Hi Guys, i just got my first Skyline, and this is my first post on this site, big thanks to all you guys, i did alot of reading on this site before i decided to do this build This is the Car Its a 1991 R32 Gtr grabbed it of ebay from a retired policeman in Newcastle its not running, blown turbos, we towed it back to Sydney and are now in the process of bringing it back to life
  20. Picked this up on the weekend for the track car, apparently approx 150ks and removed as a "runner", toying with the idea of attempting the rebuild myself - which I've never done but always really wanted to try. I've got a basic workshop, most tools, have done turbo/head/manfiold swaps and have over a decade experience with Nissan platforms etc etc so I have half an idea. Standard rods don't like going past 220 or so rwkw apparently and as my current motor is an original bottom end with some basic bolt ons I wanted something fresh anyway. Parts list will look something like this. Spool forged kit which has rods, bearings, pistons, rings, pins, metal head gasket etc. Headstuds New gaskets and hoses throughout. New oil and water pumps, timing belt, idler tensioner. Some tomei 256 cams I have sitting in a box brand new. Either new OEM or basic upgrade valve springs and some new lifters (lifters needed?) New balancer. Mild porting/port matching, nothing crazy, remove butterflies and possibly relocate injector ports. A GTX2860R I have sitting here which is new, could swap for 63 or 67? A little Tiual 38mm external gate. E85 Use my existing Nistune. Re-use existing oil cooler/intercooler/radiator fuel setup etc. I would want the basic bottom end balancing done, but once the initial weigh/measure/balance is done and you install the rotating assembly can you/should you then have it balanced as a short block? I've seen people do this with clutch attached also which seems odd, given the clutch could die tomorrow and be different. Same for the head, the guy I would have do some porting could likely do the valves/springs and clearances while he's there. leaving me cams/fit head to block which I'm OK with. With the 2860, I can't see it making more than 230-240rwkw, which is fine given I have no big plans for new gearsets or box swaps. 63 and 67 would go a little further but run the risk of hurting the box sooner - Box which is just a stocker with a nice clutch and fluid and no present issues. The alternative is I break the motor down, get all the parts, then deliver it all ready for assembly to my mechanic and collect assembled short block, an assembly head from the head guy, and do the final assembly and swap myself. I know it's not a "simple" task, but for those who have DIY'd a rebuild, would you do it again? What caught you out, anything else to throw in?
  21. Hi, I started a thread not long ago about misfiring under medium to heavy acceleration. Poking around I had really odd results testing the resistance on the coil pack ignitor. It lead me to believe the ignitor was faulty; replaced this and the problem didn't go away. I'm still curious what the resistance of other ignitors are... when I get a multimeter I'll test the re-furb unit too. In short, here is what i did: Replaced the ignitor - same. Dropped in a set of BCPR6ES-11 - same Dropped in a set of BCPR6ES - better but still same same Checked for un-metered air. Found K&N oil from the panel in the air box. Replaced with paper filter, cleaned AFMs with CRC AFM cleaner - marginally better with the BCPR6ES in there. Inspected the coil packs. No cracking. Did some reading about coil packs and had a penny drop moment. Basically, two things: The coils packs, as in the induction coils in the unit itself generally work, or don't. Rule of thumb, there are examples of them failing but not for this post. So, in my case the coil pack fires, and it works. It's the plastics around the pack that break down. Sometimes visibly, other times not. Stumbled onto a YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qirx_G4x5i0 Guy with an Aussie accent. I'd be shocked if he isn't on SAU. If you are out there and read this, chime in and take credit. Bought a second hand set of coil packs, some contact cleaner and 2x 7g tubes of dielectric grease. Pulled the coil packs out and apart, sprayed everything with contact cleaner. Then a generous ring of dielectric grease around where the pack flanges out and also underneath the flange. Put the clean springs back in, slid the plastic part nozzle on with another run of dielectric grease around the base. To be sure. Could have been done easily with one tube but being super generous and ended up using a tiny part of the second tube. On the first drive, oh my! How different the car feels. Smoother acceleration, less backfiring from the exhaust, better (smoother?) engine sound and no misfiring. Looking at the old coil packs. See the below pictures. The rim has oxidized, the springs are dirty (pics don't show it) and inside the coil are black marks... If the OEM coils are as good as anything aftermarket, I'd spend the $30 on parts and in an hour it'll be like new. A run of dielectric grease is on my maintenance list whenever I do plugs. HTH someone else.
  22. Hey fellas, hope you're all well so here we go I need help I rebuilt my R33 series 2 GTS-T from the ground up. The rebuilt motor is having trouble starting and idling. Rebuilt RB25DET series 2 Car kicks over then cuts out straight away, like its starved of fuel. Then when you try start it again it gets really compressiony doesn't want to start. Leave it for a min and it will, but with horrible misfire, eventually sorts itself out but not fully, hunts for a bit. Doesn't sound like it's running on 6 cylinders. Head got rebuilt, had no issues with old one, piston rings were finished so I had to rebuild it Compression ratings at 140 across all 6 Seems to be over-fueling but it's always run rich. I've checked the: Coil pack loom, tested fine Fuel pressure fine Oil pressures good Spark is fine Timing is spot on New - Walbro fuel pump - Saads fuel reg - Iridium spark plugs - AFM - K&N Oil Filter - Gates timing belt - Nissan water pump - Nissan thermostat Old (off the motor before rebuild, but were working when dismantled) - GCG high flowed turbo - GCG FMIC - Injectors and rail (standard series 2) - ECU (standard series 2) - Intake manifold (inc AAC) - Exhaust manifold - Exhaust - BOV - Alloy Radiator - Cam shafts - After market boost controller - CAS - Pod filter - Splitfire coilpacks (haven't travelled more than 3000km) Any suggestions for me to test? I'm trying to organise a new CAS to test. We were test driving the car all week in our workshop carpark after we installed the new reg and it was running really well, but was doing this same thing over a week ago. Kinda reverted to doing the same thing again unfortunately. Id appreciate any help with it, it's so close but so far omg Thanks for reading Marni
  23. Hey guys so after a comp test my engine has busted rings leading to 40psi. So I’ve taken them all apart. I’m the first owner in aus from Japan. My rods don’t all line up properly in numerical order. Also my piston caps have been stamped. Does this mean this engine was rebuilt with stock parts at some point ?
  24. rb26 rebuilt engine with exceptional attention to detail Hi, I've had my r33 rb26 engine totally rebuilt including head. Unlike many rebuilds, nothing has remained untouched and all screws, metal parts, springs have been cleaned, polished, electrocoated. Some components have been sandblasted and painted or powder coated. All machining work performed by orger who worked on the r32s that ran in the v8 championships. New end spring plastic brackets were machined for throttle bodies. The motor has not been started and sits in a RWD 300zx. The project has blown out and while in no rush, I'm considering selling and SEEKING EXPRESSIONS OF INTEREST. Engine owes me over 30k, so will say asking for 30 and open to reasonable offers. Located near chadstone in VIC. Please no low ballers as you will be ignored :-( Engine details; Ferrea OS Valve set rb26 ferrea double valve spring set rb26 ARP head studs RB26 Camtech camshafts - 274 degree with 9.35mm lift OEM Timing Belt Timing Belt Tensioner (both) 2 x RPM Adjustable Camshaft Pulley Nitto I-beam conrods Nitto Oil Pump headgasket nitto drag series nitto intake & exhaust gasket ITB block water fitting exhaust studs x 10 3x water hoses Davies craig EWP alloy JE Pistons & Rings Main studs ARP Head studs ARP Main bearing set piston ceramic coating Misc Acid clean block welsh plugs crack test block crack test crankshaft remove crankshaft oil gallery plugs clean & linish crankshaft Modify oil galleries for NPT plugs Strainer plate line hone conrod alignment conrod size check check s/e clearance check bearing clearance Mock Assemble squish areas in chambers dismantle final clean & re assemble check compression 8.5 - 1 block surface balance full engine check and dispatch NO SUMP. Accessories; BPP fuel rail is twin entry 14mm rail 6 x Bosch EV14 1000cc injectors adaptors filters seals plugs (Flow Matched) Heat treated manifold Precision 6466 and 46mm dual gates plumbed back into dump
  25. coparts41

    Valve Body

    Hi guys , just wonder if there is any one who has a spare valve body for a C34 S2 triptronic box in Melbourne , as MV auto`s want $400 deposit plus the price of the body which is way over the top. I only need it until I get the change over unit back from Adelaide. thanks.
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