Search the Community

Hey guys i wanna sell my amp asap due to upgrade. it's a Response Precision AA0426. It's 4x100watt 760watt rms bridged. Had it for a while, pumps my twin comp 1000watt each subs. I want it gone asap located in Thomastown, Melbourne. Hit me up with a text on 0413323385. I'm selling it for $150 ONO. THATS ALREADY CHEAP AS SHIT, ILL TAKE ANY OFFER CLOSE TO IT I WANT IT GONE.

Ive been doing some research on which cams would be the best choice for my situation but not having much luck finding people with the same combo as me. I live in California so Im limited to 91 octane for fuel which means around 18-19 psi. The RB26 will be stock pistons and rods with a T3 divided GTX3682R. Yes I realize going back to twins would be better for response but thats not really an option for me at this point. Ive read a lot of opinions on the Tomei poncams and it seems like its split 50/50. Half the people say they are a waste of money because you dont get enough gains to make it worth the cost and other people say the exact opposite. Ive also read that the stock cams (with adjustable cam gears) are one of the best options for response simply because they are free. lol I really dont care much about peak power if it means losing bottom end, so thats not even a concern its all about the bottom end for me Again I know it sounds contradicting saying that I want bottom end but Im running single turbo but its part of the deal that im working with. Its out of my control. So Tomei poncams or stock? Or anything else that you guys would recommend?

Hey all I have finally put my rb30det together and I must say I feel accomplished doing it, but the improvements I expected from it are not there. It still feels like my rb25det. I don't know if it is just me or my expectations were to high but everything feels the same. I expected off boost driving to feel better and have more grunt and low down torque and a massive increase in spool seeing as I went from a 2.5 to a 3 liter while using the exact same turbo and housing, but no such luck. To give a bit of background on the car: I had a rb25 with a few mods,forged pistons, forged rods, all bearings changed to acl bearings, freddy intake manifold, t4 twin scroll manifold with the collector for the wastegate merged so you only use one wastegate, hx 40 with t4 .58 housing, 850cc injectors, ford lightning maf, meth injection, walbro e85 450 lph in tank fuel pump all controlled by a power fc. Never dynoed the car but was making excellent power for me. Boost of about 15psi came on full at about 4000rpm in second from a cruise doing about 2000rpm then going wide open throttle. It lit up the tires doing that in second and pulled all the way to red line. In third and fourth I had strong pull all the way to my redline of 7000rpm as well. Needless to say being lazy I knocked the motor due to lack of oil, so instead of a full rebuild I decided to go rb30. I sourced all the parts I needed and built an rb25/30, used the rods and pistons that came with the block with a new set of bearings, rings, rod bolts, crank collar mod, oil pump gear mod and 1.2mm mls headgasket. Reused everything else that would have been on my 25 to finish build. So engine was exactly the same as what was in my rb25 except I now should have half a liter more displacement right?........... Wrong!!!! Car is up and running now and I have put a road tune on it and it feels no different from my rb25. As I stated earlier it feels just like my old rb25 and in some instances less responsive, was just being a bit stink with the less responsive statement, but I was expecting such a different drive that I meant every word of it. Same turbo on the car and the spool time is the same from a log I did full boost at 4000rpm flooring it in second, it doesn't light up the tires the way the 25 did. In fact it doesn't spin them nearly as much, don't get me wrong it pulls but just not as I imagined it. The off boost driving feels just the same as the 25. I figured spool time would drop at least 500rpm and I would need a new set of tires in a day or two from lighting them up in first second and third and off boost driving would feel like my old 25 driving off straight from cold start, but it doesn't. From the information I gave you what do you guys think? Am I just expecting to much or is my disappointment warranted? A little bit more information I forgot to mention. Car had oil leak around crank after fixing mistakenly put car timing out about a tooth drove round like that for about a week boosting and tuning noticed difference from taking longer to crank and loss of response. The car use to start basically half a crank but now it cranks longer to start ever since timing was out fixed it and since fixed the cranking hasn't improved and still feels a bit gutless on the power and response side of things.

Precision 7175, billet wheeled, ball bearing, .96 t4 flanged rear. Has done powercruise and 15 passes at the drags, has made 545rwhp @27psi on e85 through a powerglide, gone 9.91@139 on a rb30. Purchased from the boostlab in america. http://www.theboostl...Bearing%29.html Selling due to going a bigger precision! Located in brisbane, will ship anywhere. 0423 198 820 $1800 Thanks

Looking to increase power and response for minimum work and cost??? I have for sale a Modified "twin turbo" pipe to suit GTR's It works by smoothly merging boost pressure from the rear and front turbo. If you look at a stock standard pipe you will notice that boost pressure from the front turbo is directed straight into the path (at nearly 90 degrees) of boost pressure from the front turbo. This causes air turbulence and reduces the efficiency of the turbos. By welding a plate down the centre of the pipe it merges the air smoothly increasing response and outright power. This mod is also used to prevent "twin turbo shuffle" At $250 its quite possibly the best bang for buck and safest way to increase performance of your GTR Located Sydney PM or Message 0432528844 pics to come