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For sale or swaps for something cool. 1996 R33 GTS25 Factory 5 Speed Manual 5 Months Rego Cat Back Exhaust with Cannon KYB Excel G Shocks Kmac Springs Nismo Shift Knob Rays 17" rims New Battery and New HD Clutch Only thing that isn't nice is the carbon wrap over the standard bonnet. Few bubbles etc. The Steering wheel is a little worn and the front bar has some hair line cracks in the paint too Looking at swaps or sale around $7800 ono very negotiable for cash buyers. No shitboxes, no 10yo commos or falcons, charades etc. I would like either a nice little daily or a fun low mods grip or skid car. Located 20 Mins South of SYDNEY airport in Cronulla. Call me 0415 THREE THREE Four 551

Hi guys, I have a set of front electric black leather seats for sale from a WGNC34 S2. They have full electric controls, including seat warmers. They plug into any auto or manual S1 or s2 stagea without the need to run wiring (the cars all have the wiring loom under the factory cloth seats already. Driver side seat has the usual wear marks as shown in some of the attached pics. Passenger side seat has some minor wear marks. Seats are currently being stored at my parents, any inspection welcome just need to arrange preferrably on a weekend. Asking for $750 Pickup from Sydney only (won't post due to size). Call Ian on 0433 147 729 to arrange inspection.

In Perth WA, Seeking both passangers and drivers front doors for a white S2 stagea. Must have no or very little rust. White colour preferred, but will accept other colours if in good condition.

For sale is my 1996 R33 GTST S2 (Upgrading and yes will add cash to swap for R34 GTT) 232KW at 15PSI (No lag to speak of) Price: Not really sure what it's worth in today's market but I was offered 10k/11k last time I considered selling it. It also obviously depends on certain things as you will read in the ad; Gear knob Sub-woofer Head-unit / computer Fire extinguisher + custom bracket RWC but let's for the sake of the forum rules put a placeholder price of 10k post or PM offers 2 door Turbo (GCG Highflow, no shaft play) Manual transmission (Exedy heavy duty) Silver FMIC 3.5 inch HKS turbo back exhaust Modified stock air box Upgraded slotted brake rotors all around Bosch 040 equivalent fuel pump Engine bay strut brace 18" DTM Rush rims Apexi pencil turbo timer HICAS lockout bar 4 x speaker 2 x tweeter 1 x AMP Awesome Mongoose M80 alarm saved the car from being stolen once already! Tinted windows 160k km *New* battery *New* PowerFC (with hand controller) *New* 2 x front tyres (can do more tyres as part of purchase at discount cost, have friend who owns tyre shop) The car has an under front seat bracket for fire extinguisher and the fire extinguisher itself. I would plan to take this with me unless the buyer particularly wants it. Run on 98 Smurfs blood gearbox oil Castrol GTX engine oil Car was broken into and has just come back from repairs. Good alarm proved it's worth it's salt First i'll describe damage then resulting repairs: Door and ignition barrels re-done Alarm siren replaced (original ripped out) New battery (died when they f**ked the electrics and ripped out the fuse box/wiring) Dash replaced with series 3 Sub-woofer stolen (more on that later) Head unit screen smashed (more on that later) Gear knob stolen (more on that later) Front bar paint damaged (Going to be fully resprayed by insurance) Right hand side paint damaged from someone side swiped me (Right hand side full re-spray covered by insurance) Power FC stolen and brand new power FC replaced brand new Power FC manufactured straight from the factory in Japan (3 week wait). Brand new tune from Racepace. Car was doing 240KW on the last tune but not even getting 300KM to a tank. New tune is 232KW (unnoticeable power difference) but gets like 60-70KM more per tank. Haven't got an exact figure because i've only used one tank since I got it back from tuning and didn't get to run it to empty. This was a vid I made before the car got broken into. So now i'll address some of the things I said I would. Sub-woofer stolen means a few good things for the buyer: You can provide your own sub which I can install (cheaper for you) You can buy it off me with no sub (cheaper, lighter, more boot space or whatever your reason) You can pick a sub as part of the purchase of the vehicle and I will install and sell as part of car Gear knob stolen: I am borrowing one from a friend and the same BYO, buy without or pick and buy as part of car applies as above. Head-unit: Still in working order. Only the touchscreen is broken, everything else is in working order. It also has a remote control so it could be completely usable like that. I imagine most people will get it replaced but this allows someone to have a fully functional audio system and they can then take their time to do research, find the right head uni, save for the right head unit or do something different altogether. So the same BYO, buy without or pick a head-unit / computer and I will install applies. Personally I was going to replace the head unit with a touch-screen interfaced computer so that I can run windows or linux or whatever I want on it. This would allow me to do things like: RFID door locks which lock and unlock based on your proximity to the vehicle Give the car WIFI so when I park in the driveway it can connect to the home WIFI and sync all my new music to it Remote car start Display speed, revs, and other diagnostic information on the screen Add NAV, GPS, accelerometer into it for normal driving and for cool stuff like lap-timing or speed runs Add an in-car camera which can record traffic incidents etc to the computer and then when I get home it will connect to WIFI and automagically transfer it all to my home computer Add a SIM card and give the computer 1GB data for $9.90 per month for google maps or pandora radio or whatever you may need to look up on the run, especially if your phone has died The only thing wrong with the car at the moment that the insurance isn't going to cover is my heater core began leaking while being repaired. Racepace bypassed it and I am in the process of acquiring a new heater core for it and the dash is already mostly out. This also gives me a good selling point opportunity to tell you than I am meticulously cleaning everything behind there. Man those air vents were dusty. 20 years worth of dust I guess. Also because of the coolant leak I will be shampooing the carpets in the car.

Hi, I'm regretfully selling my skyline if anyone is interested: 1997 R33 GTS-T Series 2 (white) - Manual transmission - 161,000 genuine km's - 17" Genuine VOLK Racing TE-37 wheels in BRAND NEW CONDITION. These have just been machined & resprayed so there is not a scratch on them & are a real head turner. You won't find a set of these in better condition. - Three point immobiliser & Alarm system worth approx $2K - Key-less entry fitted. - Side-skirts and rear aprons. - Brand new tyres on rear & almost new on the front. - Great condition inside & out. - Drives great. - Only ever had 1 Australian owner since it was imported in 2005. - It will come with a roadworthy certificate. - Registered until March 2013. Almost everything on the car is stock standard. It has never been modified besides the wheels & skirts. Ideal for someone who want just a stock standard series 2 themselves that has never been thrashed, or for someone who wants to go and make their own modifications to. Price: $12,500 Location: Croydon, VIC (Melbourne eastern suburbs) Call or text me on 0407 705 085 for any questions or if you would like to inspect the car. Thanks for looking. Davin

Hello everyone! Introduction and help request Hi All, hope you are well! Just getting back into the car scene, have been out of it for quite some time due to family commitments! Previously owned a BNR32, BCNR33 and BNR34. After getting permission from the missus I am now back in the RB world, got myself a S2 Stagea 260RS. Fun cars, feels like a sport car until you look to the back. Quick question for you guys, I have already bought myself some MCA coilovers with 10kg (F) and 5kg (R) as it will be my daily with a odd spirited driving (if i get the chance). Is there any other upgrades you would suggest? As mentioned, I have been so out of the car scene and feel kind of lost with all these new techs. Also, sounds like I have a whining diff, what do you recommend? What is out there for the Stagea? What is interchangeable between the skyline and stagea? Thank you so much!

I've got a 98' Series 2 Stagea and the 4wd doesn't work (See more here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463038-help-with-fault-finding-attesa-system-attesa-ecu-c34/#entry7685341) Just wondering how do i retrieve error codes relating to the 4wd system? I've got to the ABS/ESP computer (Also 4wd?) and a few forum posts reference a red flashing light through a hole or someone said it is on the PCB itself. I've pulled the cover off the computer and could not see a light anywhere (See photos attached). Is there another way to get the codes?

WANT TO BUY I am looking to buy a R33 rb25det engine loom, located Auckland, NZ but happy to pay for shipping from anywhere, Cheers!

Wanted to buy, Nissan Skyline Series 2 R33 OEM steering wheel. Must be in good condition and have all parts, will accept one that doesn't have clock spring etc for less money. No worn/re-trimmed wheels please. Willing to pay for post, have cash waiting. The S14 wheel is same shape but inferior in quality, please don't offer me those. Cheers.

1999 Nissan Stagea RS4 Dayz Manual Hey there ladies and gents, as per title selling a Series 2 RS4 manual swapped dayz edition. This is as good as they get before S2 factory manuals/260RS being a S2, GTR box, dayz kit and the RB25 NEO. It is still AWD. Bought with the intention of dailying it, but circumstances have changed so time to move it on. Have spent lots of time and money on bringing this up to standard, bought it as a half completed manual conversion with a bunch of things needed. Heres the spill; ENGINE Stock RB25DET NEO w/ 160,000km Splitfire Coilpacks OEM Airbox (comes with a hectic pod filter if suits buyers taste) Major service completed including timing belt, cam and crank seals, coolant flush, oil (castrol 10w-40), oil filter and sparkplugs OEM exhaust DRIVETRAIN, BRAKES AND SUSPENSION R32 GTR 5 speed gearbox R32 GTR transfer case Brand new single plate Exedy clutch (push type) Gearbox oil drained and filled with Redline shockproof gear oil Transfer case oil drained and filled with Nissan D-Matic (ATF) Front and rear diffs drained and filled with Penrite 75w-90 gear oil ATTESSA flushed, filled with Nissan D-matic and bled R32 GTR Sumitomo front calipers & rotors Adjustable height and rebound coilovers (unsure of brand) Hardrace adjustable front upper control arms Hardrace adjustable rear upper control arms EXTERIOR & INTERIOR Factory Dayz kit including front bar, side skirts, rear bar and spoiler. Non-sunroof Wont come on the 8 MR BBS wheels, Will come on R33 GTST wheels with RWC tread. Factory manual centre console R34 GTT Steering wheel with a Silvia airbag OEM electric leather seats OEM cargo net and privacy cover New FitMyCar full set of floor mats Fresh paint correction buff and polish, then sealed with autoglym wax Aftermarket alarm, immobilizer and central locking Thats pretty much it, only things to note is it does have the common stagea rust under the mirrors, the boot has a decent dent in it, and the drivers seat has a tear in it. There are inperfections here and there, and i have tried to take pictures of absolutely every one i can see. These are available to serious buyers, so there is no hidden surprises before inspecting. I have tried to reflect all this in the asking price. Asides from that its a clean and honest car. Happy for comp testing to be done for serious buyers only. Sold with no RWC or Rego. *WONT COME WITH BBS’s, WILL COME WITH R33 GTST WHEELS* $10,000 Located Eltham North Any questions please feel free to pm me.

Hi. I have been trying to figure out what wcu's that cross over the same harnes, but whatevwr i google i don't realy get a good answer. I have truble with my rb25det s2 4wd auto car, and want to try to use a Manual ecu in it to se if it migth help with the problems im having, problem is that i have no idea what ecu that wil work with the engien. And yes i do know that the gearbox wont shift on its own if i put a manual ecu in it,

this is an r33 series 2 with a stock bumper but with r33-4door fog lights. (fair sure, correct me if im wrong) but what lip type of lip is it?!?! help please :) [looks like the the only thing that comes close to the eternal sexual powers of the factory nismo lip]

Immobilizer Bypass and bcm Hey guys, im in need of help my nissan skyline r33 series 2 was stolen last week. i have got it back and my bcm has been stolen and my igition barrel was taken. i have a m80 series immobilizer i cant turn off. need help please!!!!!!!

Hey guys Anyone know where I might be able to find a R33 S2 Tommy Kaira Style Front Bar. I know DMD the image used to make them but its not on their website anymore and they are not replying to my email and the phone number seems to be out of service. If you know some one who is selling or where they still might me makeing them, information will be greatly be appreciated. Thanks

R33 S2 Angel Eyes Fog Lights LED Basically replacing the series 2 clear fog lights located on the front bar with led angel eye projector fog lights. They will sit in place of the original glass lens sitting on a custom acrylic bracket to hold it in place and present a visually pleasing and professional look also keeping it weatherproof and maintaining the circular style. NOTE: Will be posting more pics later just a rough idea

Hi All, New to SAU. Excuse my limited knowledge for future reference. I recently purchased a N/A r33 S1.5 (s2 management) with intentions to go down the forced induction path. I purchased a Rb25det s1 engine,loom and ecu. I installed the engine trouble free but had a few electrical bugs, using the s1 management I can not get injector or coil pulse. I've tried multiple CAS with no luck and have narrowed it down to no power to the Ecu. I then tried using the N/A s2 ecu,loom and plenum with all n/a sensors. (Of course changing coil packs,tps and afm) The car started and idled fine but run like shit on boost. I changed to a S2t ecu,fuel pump and adjustable FPR The car run what I thought was perfect. After a small drive I've found it runs VERY rich @ idle and VERY lean on boost >4000rpm roughly It's like the Ecu is not recognising "boost" So this is where I am at now: S1.5 car S2det Ecu (only 1 relay next to ecu) S2 N/A loom S2 N/A afm S2 N/A plenum and sensors Det injectiors Adjustable FPR @ 30psi- I've noticed a lot of fluctuations in pressure- some days 10psi some days 35???? S2 coil packs S2 Tps and TB Walbro 225lph Boost T @10psi So to me I belive there are no ways the car can sense boost since I do not run a boost solenoid using n/a loom? The car will get up and go ok but feels to have no torque. It's just all noise. I come back off the track with a glowing turbo. The car will idle insanely rich to the point where the plugs fowl after 2 mins of idle @800rpm The car will run amazing and pull well sometimes but very moody on when. Also wondering if it's my fuel pressure fluctuating? Let me know any troubleshooting ideas anyway guys and girls! Look forward to joining the SAU community. Max.

I have scoured SAU and the web and I did not find a answer to this. I have series 2 AWD auto stag, which is completely stock except for a manual boost controller which I have just put in. I know I will have a restrictive exhaust system (it is our family wagon, and I like how quiet it is), and I wont get much more power out of it, but it gets up to full boost and power noticeably faster now, and that's all I was after. Handy at the lights ;-) and for overtaking. Off the mark till about 40km per hour, it was slower than the Manual Subaru Outback that I used to have! Anyhow I am currently running 9psi. Can I go to 10 or should I be running less? Is back pressure going to hurt anything? Any advice will be muchly appreciated!

A while back I made some aesthetic mods to my Skyline R33 s2 and have a couple of things laying around since. I am not wrecking. This is all I have: R33 gtst series 2 stock wing (w/ working brake light) $150 R33 gtst series 2 stock passenger seat (w/ railing) $150 Great condition I live in WA NOR if you're interested and want to view in person leave a comment below. or send us a text 0402148517

Good morning everyone, i hope everyone is doing well. i have started to realise that the intercooler setup on R33 GTST's series 1 and 2 is different. meaning; Stock Series 2 r33 gtst how the intake is in a " U " shape and Stock Series 1 r33 gtst how the intake is directly from the corner. but these be a easier way to understand the difference between a s1 and s2. i know there can be a s1 (1.5) look as well. can Series 1 r33's have the same setup when stock or vice versa? can anyone shed some light on this?

Newbie alert Hi all, newbie in your presence (to this site that is) Location: Perth, WA Check out my first post, any help would be much appreciated! Cheers guys

R33 S2 Roller For Sale R33 S2 Roller For Sale So I started this project, but ended up not finishing it due to injury. Its on the home stretch but Not sure If i can be bothered finishing it now, took about 5 months to get it to where it is now. But honestly have stopped working on it for a few months due to my injury and not sure if i should continue. And honestly the longer it sits it does no justice for it. 1995 (i think) R33 Gtst S2.(can clarify to interested party) Full revs check and paperwork provided. Bought it off a kid who had smacked the front. Car had a ding in the front that has all been repaired, Bonnet and panel replaced, all squared and perfect and checked out. Then the car was completely sanded, straightened all dents and chips removed and any metal work completed. Engine Bay was completely disassembled and prepped and painted (same as Exterior ) Entire Car was a windows out proper pull apart job, completely (inlc jams etc) Sprayed Duxone 2k Light Blue and it Looks mint. (like new!) (we are talking about a 10k) paint job. Also fixed a number of issues with the car to bring it back to perfectly stock condition. Replaced window switches and other faulty items! etc etc to get it perfect. Interior is almost immaculate and the car just needs the following to finish it; Engine + Gearbox + Exhaust + some other small bits. I have an engine for it, its my old stock RB25 which is perfect, I was keeping for my spare. Not sure If i will include it in the sale or not, lets say NOT, but i can if the buyer is really keen and we can work that out. As it is almost complete, just missing turbo, throttlebody, knock sensors, mmm and maybe a few other bits. Happy to Neg, but want to mostly recoup most of the money spent on it, asking 5,500. If it does not sell ill end up finishing it and selling it for 12k min. This is a really nice freshly painted flat GTST, so if you pranged yours or keen on a nice base for a project, this could be what your looking for. 0432 (279) 1 six six. Can post pictures tomorrow.

hey there guys have been a long time reader but first time posting i have recently had my 96 S2 R33 with RB25DET at the tuner after a bunch of new mods he was having an issue with the car hesitating for a second or 2 when the throttle is jabbed quickly.. making it feel quite un responsive and laggy ( throttle is fine otherwise, just has to be increased slowly.. its most noticable down low or when giving it a quick rev in neutral) he believed it to be a TPS issue so i got a new NISSAN TPS the same as what i had in the car. which surprisingly was a S1 TPS (obviously with a S1 Throttle body too, installed by previous owner) with the extra plug and fly lead hanging off it.... he managed to tune it ok but it still has the same issue - just to clarify ive got it plugged into the fly lead plug not the one on the bottom of the sensor.. i believe this is the signal plug so this is a two pronged question 1. other than the way the the TPS mechanicaly connects to the throttle body are the sensors both the same electronically? 0.5 - 5v DC? - if so it shouldnt matter that i have a S1 sensor on a S2 motor 2. when i tested it i seem to be getting 0.6v at closed throttle and 3v ish at WOT.. i believe its ment to be 0.5 - 5v from what ive read on SAU.. i have hesitated to adjust it as dont want to screw up the tune i have just had... but is this likely to cause the problem i am having.. or is it possible he has compensated for these incorrect voltage readings in the ECU (VIPEC) or something? any assistance would be greatly appreciated.. and ive been searching for a couple hours and couldnt find anything that answers this completely.. so sorry if this is a repeat post thanks caleb

RB25DET S1 S2 engine difference Just got a new engine to drop into my 33. Came with a s2 engine and engine im putting in is a s1. Wondering if theres any difference between the two beside the coils which i can just swap over. Injectors, intake, accessories, etc all good to just plug straight into my s2 loom? Or should i just swap over the intake manifold side with my s2, just want to save some time.

R33 S2 RB25DET FFP Install - HELP Hi all, First poster here I've got a few questions about installing a FFP. I've got a stock R33 S2 with the usual (FMIC, BOV, POD, Coilovers) around 176,000kms on the engine. The engine itself is very healthy, running stock boost but pulls like a dream, always serviced every 5,000kms with Penrite 10W40 Racing 10, spark plugs etc by myself of course. Now, I bought a FFP the other week, pretty sure its a Greddy remake, got it for a cheap price with all the fittings, screws and throttle body. Also bought the stock Inlet Manifold Gasket from Autopro just incase the one on is no good. Basically I want to tidy up the engine bay a little as I hate the look of the stock plenums and the J-pipe crossing over the engine is a pain to take off every time to do spark plugs. I'm very mechanically minded, been around RBs for years, done a few things to them and done a few engine rebuilds etc. So my questions are; anyone here done a FFP install themselves? How long did it take and what difficulties did you run into? Anything major to drill/reshape etc or just bolt on stuff? Where does the BOV get relocated to as the crossover J-pipe gets removed? Where do all the vacuum lines go? If anyone can get back to me ASAP with answers or even videos that would be more than appreciated as I don't want to start something and end up not being able to drive my baby, looking at doing all this over the weekend, cheers guys! NOTE: PICTURES WILL BE UPLOADED (ENGINE BAY, FFP, THROTTLE BODY)

HI, selling stock rb25 turbo froma s2 in perfect condition. Comes with heat shield, dump pipe and oxygen sensor. Very clean, run perfectly. Zero shaft play. $400 Also selling rb25 stock manifold w heat shield also in perfect nick. $80 Grant 0410698980