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Build Thread

Found 9 results

  1. WTB full BN kit or just skirts or rear or front what ever you have can be damaged but must be repairable but
  2. Hey ive got some 400R skirts and rear GTR pods off my old car which i want to install on my new one. My old 33 had the holes drilled etc and brackets to fit the pods which wrap around the rear bar, but my new 33 has never had any after market kit on it; therefore im looking for ways i can do the install. What would be the best way to mount the side skirts? ( i dont want to only use sikaflex etc ... needs to be secure ) And how do you mount GTR pods on a GTST? (doesnt seem to be much info on this? is a "glue" the only way??) Any help is appreciated . But preferably i'd like some detailed steps Car is a series 2
  3. R33 aftermarket parts sale All items are in good condition unless otherwise stated All parts are available for pickup in IPSWICH Will post smaller items at buyers expense Phone 0413 863 207 Crow Enterprises heavy duty 6 point 2.5 inch - in good condition complete with all eye bolts and clips - $200 4x Work wheels 5 spoke 18x8 and 18x9 +35 good condition no cracks or buckles - tyres are not big brand name but loads of tread %80+ - $750 Walbro in tank lift pump wired to plug into r33 skyline excellent working condition - $100 20mm Billet concentric sparers 5x114.3 - $75 the pair Large GT Wing in excellent condition complete with all mounting brackets - $300 Genuine r33 GTR 2 piece skirts – in good condition - $200 Catback exhaust with HKS Super Dragger diffback 4” inlet 6” outlet - $200 R33 non ABS diff with as new cusco 2 way mechanical centre, suit new buyer done less than 30 minutes work - $800 Pair of intercoolers with piping to the engine bay to suit r33 (possibly other) 300x600x75mm - $150 each Genuine ARC blow off valve with genuine ARC 3” cooler pipe – a rare piece - $250 Lowballlers and time wasters will be bashed, beaten and flogged. Most prices are slightly negotiable, SLIGHTLY* Good hunting
  4. FS a pair of r32 skyline side skirts in very good condition possibly brand new never been fitted they are vertex style, have all the support etc $50 melbourne north suburbs contact on zero4323zero7689 very dusty in photos but great condition
  5. After black r32 gtr side skirts, good condition. Pm me and photos please. Located in Melbourne, cash your way today
  6. chasing these parts. nismo s-tune boot lip spoiler originally offered on the sedan and nismo s-tune skirts originally offered on the coupe let me know if you have either and we can discuss a price. cheers! p.s located on the gold coast but willing to pay for freight for genuine parts!
  7. Posted in the "four door family" thread too, but whats up guys! Cannot for the life of me find any R32 sedan type M skirts. Anyone out there got them?? Im in the US but will gladly pay to ship....my new girl needs some skirts!!!!
  8. Hey guys. Cannot for the life of me find any R32 sedan type M skirts. Anyone out there got them?? Im in the US but will gladly pay to ship....my new girl needs some skirts!!!!
  9. So this is my first ever write up and unfortunately I didn’t take very many progress pictures but I will try my best to explain the process with some picture aids ?? Materials: * plastic floor trim 96in x 6in x 5/16 (x2) you can get these at Lowe’s or Home Depot * 3 inch L brackets (x8) Found at Lowe’s * Self tapping screws ( to mount brackets to car) * Hardware to mount bracket to skirt extensions ( I used black license plate hardware with plastic backings x16) Tools: Grinder, drill, something to cut the plastic trim with. Process: So for a sedan with stock type M skirts the overall length is 73 inches (coupes might be different I suggest measuring before cutting). After this you want to get the skirt extension as level as you can between the front and rear low points to do this I used various objects like toolboxes and children’s books I started with measuring out the two brackets that would be in the center of the skirt, I measured from the top of the pinch weld to the bottom of the skirt extension. If i remember correctly it was roughly 1.25-1.5 inches, always cut bigger than you think as you can grind down the bracket until you have a perfect fit. The end result would be for the top of the bracket to be flush with the top of the pinch weld, Once you have the bracket cut to the right spot and the bottom arm of the bracket gently rests against the skirt with the various objects keeping the skirt level then you mark the hole with a sharpie and install the bracket. Once you have the two center brackets installed to the car you can drive some temp screws through the bottom of the skirt extension to hold it in place as well as Mark the holes for the permanent hardware. Now it’s time to work on the ends, these are a little more complex to line up and install as you have to more aware of the jacking locations. Front Rear For the front I had to turn my steering wheel to gain access to inside of the wheel well and feel for a flush surface to mount the bracket to, as i held the bracket against the surface and lined it up with the bottom of the skirt extension i used a sharpie to mark the hole and kinda outline the bracket so i had a general idea of where to drill once I jacked the car up and got under it. If you’re pretty coordinated you could probably just blindly full send a screw through the hole. Same concept applied to the rear. Just make sure you have plenty of space between the bracket and the jack pad as you will have to trim the inside of the skirt to have room to use the the jack pads. Once the skirt extension is mounted you can mark where you need to cut to allow a floor jack access to the pads. Once the ends are installed drive some temp screws through the bottom of the skirt extension. Or just mark the holes on the bottom with a sharpie to drill later. Now all that’s left is marking the area to cut for the jack pads, uninstall the skirt extension and make the cuts. Unfortunately my car is too low to use the jack pads without the floor jack arm making contact with the skirt extension, to get around this I either jack up the car from the differential, use the emergency jack, or you could potential use something on the floor jack pad to help it gain elevation before the arm makes contact with the extension. After i made the cuts i reinstalled everything with the temp screws through the bottom of the skirt extension and made sure everything was still level. Once I was happy with it I uninstalled everything including the brackets and prepped for paint. At this point I drilled out the holes to accommodate the permanent hardware ( I would try and find something that has a really flush bolt head for a cleaner look) Once the extensions and brackets are painted it’s time to install everything, make sure you remember which bracket goes where or you will be making extra adjustments and possibly drilling new holes. To install the hardware through the top you will need to install the brackets to extensions first then install the entire assembly on the car. After the brackets are installed on the extension I would suggest to install the center two brackets first and then work the ends. I hope this write up helps anyone trying to do this, and if you have any questions send me a pm and I’ll do my best to answer them ??
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