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RB Stroker Kit Reliability & Quality I've been searching for hours, and I probably still missed some good info, but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for. So I have a new bare N1 block. I want to do a 2.8 kit for my BNR32. I don't want to get into an RB26 Stroker vs RD28 or RB30 argument here, lol, I have my reasons for going the route I am, and would rather focus on the info I am after. I mainly want to hear from people who have ran any stroker kit such as Nitto, Spool, JUN, Tomei, HKS, Etc (with mileage & power numbers if possible) their experiences in terms of driveability, power delivery (obviously dependent on turbos as well), and most importantly, reliability over time. I've been leaning towards Nitto, because I want to keep as long as a connecting rod as possible (I think the Spool 2.8 kit also has the factory length rod as well vs a shorter rod like the Tomei kit for example), for things such as increased dwell, decreased piston speed and side loading. I've read that Nitto (and Spool) outsource some of the parts (the crank itself I believe) to China, which isn't necessarily a deal breaker, but it does leave me a little hesitant. With that said, I know the majority of "Japanese Brands" also outsource their manufacturing (primarily to Taiwan in my experience). It all really comes down to quality control, which is why I'd like to hear from owners of said stroker kits and engine builders who've installed various brands on their experiences.

Hey all I have finally put my rb30det together and I must say I feel accomplished doing it, but the improvements I expected from it are not there. It still feels like my rb25det. I don't know if it is just me or my expectations were to high but everything feels the same. I expected off boost driving to feel better and have more grunt and low down torque and a massive increase in spool seeing as I went from a 2.5 to a 3 liter while using the exact same turbo and housing, but no such luck. To give a bit of background on the car: I had a rb25 with a few mods,forged pistons, forged rods, all bearings changed to acl bearings, freddy intake manifold, t4 twin scroll manifold with the collector for the wastegate merged so you only use one wastegate, hx 40 with t4 .58 housing, 850cc injectors, ford lightning maf, meth injection, walbro e85 450 lph in tank fuel pump all controlled by a power fc. Never dynoed the car but was making excellent power for me. Boost of about 15psi came on full at about 4000rpm in second from a cruise doing about 2000rpm then going wide open throttle. It lit up the tires doing that in second and pulled all the way to red line. In third and fourth I had strong pull all the way to my redline of 7000rpm as well. Needless to say being lazy I knocked the motor due to lack of oil, so instead of a full rebuild I decided to go rb30. I sourced all the parts I needed and built an rb25/30, used the rods and pistons that came with the block with a new set of bearings, rings, rod bolts, crank collar mod, oil pump gear mod and 1.2mm mls headgasket. Reused everything else that would have been on my 25 to finish build. So engine was exactly the same as what was in my rb25 except I now should have half a liter more displacement right?........... Wrong!!!! Car is up and running now and I have put a road tune on it and it feels no different from my rb25. As I stated earlier it feels just like my old rb25 and in some instances less responsive, was just being a bit stink with the less responsive statement, but I was expecting such a different drive that I meant every word of it. Same turbo on the car and the spool time is the same from a log I did full boost at 4000rpm flooring it in second, it doesn't light up the tires the way the 25 did. In fact it doesn't spin them nearly as much, don't get me wrong it pulls but just not as I imagined it. The off boost driving feels just the same as the 25. I figured spool time would drop at least 500rpm and I would need a new set of tires in a day or two from lighting them up in first second and third and off boost driving would feel like my old 25 driving off straight from cold start, but it doesn't. From the information I gave you what do you guys think? Am I just expecting to much or is my disappointment warranted? A little bit more information I forgot to mention. Car had oil leak around crank after fixing mistakenly put car timing out about a tooth drove round like that for about a week boosting and tuning noticed difference from taking longer to crank and loss of response. The car use to start basically half a crank but now it cranks longer to start ever since timing was out fixed it and since fixed the cranking hasn't improved and still feels a bit gutless on the power and response side of things.

Hi fellas. Quick and ably. As far as the only turbo goes,not including my mods besides the fact the target is up to 650 hp. Which turbo from Garret series will be better solution (if any is) for this horsepower range,for street driving to achieve faster spool (not track use as you see,just have good fun when you drive with quicker appearing spool sound) than T04z being in the same loundess range. I read about gt35 gtx35 and gt40,but still I should ask someone with more experience before I let my money disappear. Any ideas?? Thanks in advance for replies.

Shuuuu, So here goes, built motor, everything pretty much new, however re-used the OEM NEO oil pump, which similar to a GT-R N1 pump. With the pump, modified it and installed a set of Spool Import Billet Oil Pump gears and installed the matching collar to suit from Spool as well. It provides good oil pressure, cold start up about 4 bar on idle (according to my Haltech pressure sensor & the dash shows about the same too) Oil pressure increase as RPM increases and appears the pressure relief valve works corectly too and plateaus about 8~9bar with higher RPM. Once warm, I get about 1.8bar of oil pressure on idle with Penrite 10/tenths 15W50. Car is running a JHH oil relocation block, -10AN lines to a GREX relocation block and into a 25 Row Setrab oil cooler with a Z422 Oil Filter (has anti-drain back) Now the problem, it takes a good 15 seconds to build oil pressure when you 1st start the car when cold OR when it has been sitting for more than 10 minutes I've changed the oil filter just to be safe, still same thing. Lastly, this has only started to happen after the skid pan day... If I did crack the gears, the car would simply just stop building oil pressure but it's still making pressure. So this has lead to think maybe the oil pump housing itself is damaged?

Debating going to a Spool spline Drive oil pump gear setup, has anyone seen any failures, weird wear? I currently have a Tomei Pump, Recently broke the Snout of my crank off at the track (no idea why) this has me thinking about switching to a different perhaps better setup. Whats everyones thoughts on this these days..

RB26, 30 and R32 GTR parts for sale RB26 block with rotating assembly The block has scoring in every cylinder basically Not sure about the condition of the crank Block, pistons, rods, crank $650 ono RB30 RWD block brace and billet main caps The billet main caps are Hi Octane and I presume the brace is too $650 ono Tomei RB 25/26 BNIB timing belt $130 ono Gates RB 25/26 BNIB timing belt $75 BNR32 standard front mount Offers $ R32 BNIB unknown alloy rad $150 ono RB26DETT oil and water lines $50 HKS RB26DETT twin turbo pod filter kit I think it might be missing a little clip on the back of the filters $150 ono (Will get photos up ASAP, photobucket is useless) Can call or text me on: Anthony 0478809502

Selling a used BNR32/BCNR33/BNR34 GT-R ATS&ACROSS Carbon 1.5-way LSD. I bought this with the intention to use it in my Silvia but I ran out of time and never got round to buying a matching set of GTR driveshafts and hubs to go with it. Hence it has been sitting in my garage in an oiled bag unused since. For those who don't know, these are the absolute best LSDs available in the Japanese market. They are used on many top-level time-attack cars such as the Revolution, R-Magic and RE Amemiya RX-7s, Tomei S15, Amuse/Autobacs/ASM S2000s, etc. They don't chatter like metal LSDs, last way longer, are more predictable and provide faster times. Some info from ATS: Principal characteristics of the Carbon LSD - More than twice the differential lock strength of metal LSDs - Quiet operation without chattering noise - More than twice the differential lock strength of metal LSDs - Low initial drag resistance and durability that is more than 5 times greaterthan metal - Acceleration control range more than 10 times that of metal LSDs - More than 30 times the thermal decomposition resistance of metal LSDs - More than 70 times the service life of metal LSDs - Gentle transitional characteristics that yield ease of handling from free to lock - Small degree of slipping which provide a greater flexibility - Super durable - Stable differential lock performance which is unaffected by oil temperature changes - The performance of carbon LSD is not influenced by a choice of LSD oil - Very high adaptability to many LSD oils from different manufacturers Carbon LSD is recommended for those who suffer from the following problems. - I can not pass through the clipping point ideal corner entry. - I want to quickly open the accelerator at the rising edge of the corner. - Control of under-over is difficult at the rising edge of the corner. - oil temperature rises there is no durable for use at low initial. - Time-up can not be time is not stable. - How do I get rid of noise of LSD - You want to keep as natural as possible handling Reliability ATS ran their demo S15 for 65,000km around the clock around mountain roads over six months. When they pulled down the LSD the plates still had near-new thickness and the torque of the LSD was still near-new. "The ATS demo R34 GT-R has 140,000km on the current LSD, but the LSD is working beautifully with only oil changes. We think it can go for 200,000 to 300,000 km since there is no detectable deterioration in performance." Someone please buy this and put it to good use as it's useless sitting my garage. Located in Glen Waverley, VIC. Asking $900ono delivered anywhere in Australia. PM or SMS 0423800325.

RB25 head, complete but dismantled, no cam gears, spool head drain $300 RB20/25/26 tomei cam gears inlet and exhaust brand new $200 RB26 itb's to RB25 head adapter plates and hks itb gaskets $400 RB20/25/26 stainless steampipe twin scroll manifold $800 tial 44mm wastegate $200 RB25/30 bottom end, fresh bored and 0 deck block, mahle forged pistons (depending on head cc was setup for 8.9.1 compression), spool I beam rods, ross race balancer, crank grub screwed and wide oil drive, arp main and head studs, new nissan water pump, nismo thermostat, includes bearings, ready for assembly $2500 jim berry full monty race clutch, balanced fly wheel $800 series 2 power fc, hand controller and z32 afm $1000 all items located in Launceston Tasmania will ship at buyers expense pictures available on request