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Hi All, Sorry if this has been asked a million times before but my M35 Stagea (Auto) is having stalling issues. It seems to pick it's days (ie. it won't stall for 3-4 days, then stall 5-6 times in one day, mostly worse when it's not 100% warmed up). I have replaced the fuel pump and filters, cleaned the throttle body (mostly just dirt, but did appear to have a little oil in it - please not leaky turbo :S?). I am going to attempt to clean the AFM and have a new air filter on it's way. Any other thoughts? The only other issue that I'm aware of at this stage is the 4WD light coming on from time to time (I'm fairly confident it's just low on ATESSA fluid but just haven't got around to replenishing yet), is there any chance these are related? Any help would be amazing! Thanks

How to launch/burn out in NM35 Stagea? As per thread title and also want to keep the wagon forum alive ...... Might sounds d*mb but how do you launch/stall or do a burnt out in the Stagea? I drive manual cars since the day i got my license .... some 20 years ago ... god damn it i'm old :(. Do you put in manual mode, 1st gear then launch? Same apply to burnt out? Gotta replace the 2 rear tyres soon so might as well have some fun first, in a controlled environment offcourse. Car has brake cut mod, hi-flow Cheers

I've heard from a number of places that installing BOVs that aren't recirculating/plumb-back onto GTRs can be quite troublesome - stalling at idle, massive fluctuations in air/fuel ratios etc. I have also been told that HKS produce/d a part called the 'EIDS' that can counter this problem for those that still want an atmospheric venting BOV (albeit illegal) and that famed WHOOOSH sound!! Has anyone here ever used or installed one of these things, and what are peoples experience with aftermarket BOVs on GTRs, especially in terms of increased performance/less lag between shifts??

Hi Guys, Just got back from overseas and needed to start the car after letting it sit for quite a few months. Car was serviced before I left for overseas and has only seen around 100km's since that time (mechanic drove it from the shop and dropped it off, and I took it for a quick spin to get washed) and was running completely fine after the service. Today I decided to start the car and take it for another wash - It kicked over first go (I thought the battery would have drained by now but it didn't which was a good sign) - but I noticed it was missing heavily and very rough at idle (engine shaking/surging) - after a minute the car stalls. It did manage to kick over a few more times and has absolutely no problem starting - but continued to sound very erratic and kept stalling after a minute or so. I've uploaded a short video, and while I know it's not the greatest and there are probably heaps of variables - I'm hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction as to what to look for. There is no way I can limp it to the mechanics like this as it keeps stalling - so I'm hoping it will be a simple fix (leaky vacuum or something)? I did a search but doesn't seem like anyone has the exact problem I do nor on my engine. The car is a 1993 R32 GT-R - it does have a powerFC and splitfires but standard injectors, pump, AFM's, etc. http://www.filehosti...12/IMG_0466.MOV I stopped the vid just before the car stalled. I'll have to pull the plugs + AFM's out tomorrow when the sun comes up to check them - but if anyone has any advise before I start would be greatly appreciated (hoping to save my knuckles if I can)!

Car is hard to start when cold. just have to give it some gas. changed cold start valve did not help issue. Car coughs at idle about every 1-3 seconds. cleaned and inspected IACV all clean and works. still not helping. Car stalls with clutch pushed in when coming to a stop when cold. only happens 50% of the time. Checked TPS all good and reset. Car is stock. Brand new OEM coil packs, new spark plugs, new OEM fuel pump and fuel filter. Confirmed no vacuum leaks. MAF is clean. Idle does not hunt. wiggling the plug to MAF when car is on doesnt affect idle. Throttle body is clean and cable tightened correctly. I checked the forums here and what i said above is what people say will fix the issue. The coughing idle is what really bugs me. everything else i can live with. Car is perfectly fine in every other regard no issues anywhere else. No i cant just borrow parts from another skyline.

I have been struggling with this issue for a long time now and I cant seem to get it sorted out. When i let off gas the engine either dies or comes very close to it. While driving if i let off the gas to prepare for a turn the engine RPM drops so low that it looses oil pressure and power steering stops working for a few seconds until the engine recovers and bounces up to a good idle. Also can not get any good pull out of it because when i clutch to change gears the engine wants to die. I have capped the turbo inlets and charged the system up to about 20 psi. I found a few minor leaks and patched them up. I also isolated and capped anything that is not necessary. I removed the BOV's and capped it. Plugged the vacuum, line that actuates the BOVs. disconnected the PCV and capped both lines. I also capped the line going to the charcoal canister. I can not figure out why this is still happening!!?! Any ideas? While trying to correct this issue over more than a year now I have: Replaced the plugs Replaced the coil packs with splitfires Ordered new blitz BOV's (not usuing BOVs currently) Replaced both MAFs Installed greddy intercooler piping Replaced all post compressor worm style clamps with t-bolt hose clamps. ALL of the equipment I mentioned was NEW I also have an APEXI Power FC ecu but havent yet got a tune. Whether im using the stock ECU or the Apexi running a base map, it doesn't change the issue either. I am Stumped guys. Hopefully someone has an idea of whats going on!! VIDEO BELOW (not sure how to embed so i tried a few ways) <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/y_4PPMdgUYk"frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>