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Hi All, Sorry if this has been asked a million times before but my M35 Stagea (Auto) is having stalling issues. It seems to pick it's days (ie. it won't stall for 3-4 days, then stall 5-6 times in one day, mostly worse when it's not 100% warmed up). I have replaced the fuel pump and filters, cleaned the throttle body (mostly just dirt, but did appear to have a little oil in it - please not leaky turbo :S?). I am going to attempt to clean the AFM and have a new air filter on it's way. Any other thoughts? The only other issue that I'm aware of at this stage is the 4WD light coming on from time to time (I'm fairly confident it's just low on ATESSA fluid but just haven't got around to replenishing yet), is there any chance these are related? Any help would be amazing! Thanks

so I have an R33, non turbo auto, sedan, I've only had it for a few days and today on the way to the rego place and back it cut out randomly three times while I was driving. The first time it cut out while I was turning into the car park, I stopped, turned the key to off and straight away turned it on again and it was fine to park. The second time I was driving at about 80km up a hill, it cut out for a bit, then fired up again, then a couple of seconds later it cut again and I had to pull over. I tried to start it again but it wouldn't fire and idle. I went and tested the battery with my multimeter and it was showing 12.8 volts so as wasn't thinking it was an electrical issue. Hopped back in the car and it started up straight away and I took off until about 500m from house where it cut out a third time, same sequence as the second except the road I was on is fairly flat. Before I tried to start it again but it wouldn't fire... now I'm here hoping someone can give me some suggestions. I am new to R33s and Skylines in general. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi All, I've been dealing with this issue for a few months now and virtually everybody I've spoken to about it is stumped (jetwreck helped out HEAPS with this but still haven't quite gotten to the bottom of it) so if you have any thoughts as to what might be causing this (no matter how unusual) It would be greatly appreciated: My 2003 M35 Stagea has a stalling issue. It seems to stall more frequently when cold however it still stalls when warm. Generally it seems to stall when the car is changing up gears (usually when taking off at the lights), however this is not always as sometimes it will stall when leaving it to warm up in the driveway. Once it has stalled it takes a few minutes to get it going again, it tries to turn over but won't get there and you can hear that the fuel pump isn't running. Obvious solution is sensors however now virtually every probable sensor has been replaced. Fuel pump and filter have been replaced. I've gone through and cleaned all the plugs as the engine bay was full of sand when I bought it. My current thoughts are faulty immobiliser or key barrel but it's a long shot and seems unlikely. Other strange things that MAY be related: ECU sometimes gives the Boost sensor A malfunction error code, but it seems to come and go. I occasionally get a 4WD warning light after stalling (ATTESA fluid is topped up). Fuel mileage is rubbish, might be normal but I've sometimes hit low fuel light at 250kms of 98 (O2 sensors havent been replaced but this wouldn't cause stalling would it?). Auto power windows switch doesn't work, goes up halfway then back down. This all may sound irrelevant but I am getting near my tolerance of this issue and wanna get it sussed out. Any random thoughts would be super helpful! Thanks all

Ok car was goin perfect but yesterday morning it suddenly had like no power when i accelerated, it would do the turbo wind up and all but just no power, later the car went weird wouldnt rev past 3.5 rpm, smoke coming out exhaust, hunting idle, misfiring. I replaced spark plugs, tested coils (splitfires), check aac valve, check for vacuum leaks checked maf, checked intercooler.. Things done before prob i adjusted boost and put 20 dollars prem fuel in car.... Please help im seriously stumped car has fc commander, splitfire coils, stock bov, pod filter etc. 1994 r33 manuel

Now where to begin, it all started 3 weeks ago when i drove off in my car leaving my house. I let the car warm up and as soon as i get to the first light my car decided to stall. I fired it back up with no problems and drove to the next light where it decided to stall again. This time the car had a hard time going to idle so i had to give it a couple of revs so it wouldn't die on me. I decided to turn back around and head home to check the problem. When i started to drive back home my car stalled when i switched from first to second and the engine cut off but i still had power because the dash lights were on. Turned it back on and went straight home into my drive way. I started to give the car a couple of light revs and it would struggle to go back to idle or just cut off. I did a lot of research on what the problem could be. I cleaned out the IAC valve, throttle body, MAF, Blitz pod, checked my throttle body gasket, intake manifold gasket, and IAC gasket doing quick sprays with carb cleaner to check if the idle would change and seems to me that the gaskets are still good. I changed majority of all vacuum hoses, switched to three different types of blow off valves to see if that was the problem, looked at all my fmic couplings, installed new spark plugs even though the spark plugs i had were new. When i switched them out they were really shot of having them in for a month. Now my car won't even start after changing out the spark plugs. I don't know what the problem could be and my exhaust is spitting out black shit with a lot of moisture. The thing is its not oil thats coming out and sometimes blows black smoke. The black stuff looks like carbon gunk mixed with water and a lot of it shoots out. I'm thinking its because I live in a hot/humid area that the car is just getting moisture built up and just shooting carbon out but then again i could be wrong and it could be something else. It doesn't feel like and smell like oil. After changing the spark plugs out my car won't even go to idle no more. It would crank strong but just die now. At first i thought it was a vacuum/boost leak, but now I don't know what else it could be after switching out the spark plugs. I have a boost controller but i rarely ran it on high boost because i was waiting on coil packs and when i would try it on high boost, i kept it at 10psi. When the car started stalling and was still drivable, the car did not feel sluggish. The fuel pump still primes strong and battery and alternator is still good. I reseted the ecu a lot of times after every clean up i did. I checked all the fuses to see if any would be the problem. The one thing i didn't try was changing out the 02 sensor but i'm thinking its far beyond that problem or it could just be multiple problems only because that black shit is spitting out of my exhaust. Someone please help and give me advice. mods on the r33 -Blitz SUS filter -HKS ssqv4 -3inch dump pipe all the way down to exhaust -fmic -greddy trust profec boost controller -Nismo fuel pump -S2 pink label MAF and thats all i can really think of for performance wise. I'm pretty sure all other performance parts are stock. bought the car used 2 years ago and it ran like a champ till 3 weeks ago. I'm kind of wondering if the Nismo fuel pump is pushing too much fuel pressure because the fuel pump came out of a r33 gtr if that would make a difference and maybe caused the engine to flood. I recently switched to the Nismo fuel pump due to my original fuel pump going out...or it could just be a f**ked up O2 sensor...no check engine light is on if thats a good thing.

My series 1 r33 skyline with series 1 rb25det is got a problem. It idled rough on a cold start untill I give it some throttle. And randomly cuts out when driving around 2500-3000 rpm. It also stalled while idling last night. I've cleaned the aac valve and air flow meter. I've changed the fuel filter, air filter, o2 sensor, coil packs and put iridium plugs in it and it is still doing it. The cutting out is random as in, one day it won't do it, next day it will and it varies from one quick cut out to 5 or 6 times in a couple of minutes. It is similar to when a car runs out of fuel. Any help would be appreciated.

I've been reading through a bunch of threads with similar issues yet nothing that directly relates so far. If have a BNR32 GT-R and it's been a long cold winter here in Melbourne and the car felt like it was running fine and smooth the whole time. As there's been few warm days recently its been causing the car the run with rough idles and almost stalling at times. It will only happen if its on a warm day of more than 20 degrees. I've also noticed that the engine check light will flash at times and then be ok again but other than that car will boost ok and give off consistent power. So far I've read that it could be one of the vacuum lines in the plenum or the timing itself. My guess is that it could be the AFM's or sparkplugs. I am running stock AFM's with an ARC Airbox. I also took it to be Dyno tested to see if the issue could be replicated but they found nothing aside from it running slightly hotter than usual after load. I am running an aftermarket radiator as well. However it was fairly cold day so it may have been easily spotted. Was wondering if anyone else has had experiences with this and any suggestions would be appreciated!

Hi Guys, Just got back from overseas and needed to start the car after letting it sit for quite a few months. Car was serviced before I left for overseas and has only seen around 100km's since that time (mechanic drove it from the shop and dropped it off, and I took it for a quick spin to get washed) and was running completely fine after the service. Today I decided to start the car and take it for another wash - It kicked over first go (I thought the battery would have drained by now but it didn't which was a good sign) - but I noticed it was missing heavily and very rough at idle (engine shaking/surging) - after a minute the car stalls. It did manage to kick over a few more times and has absolutely no problem starting - but continued to sound very erratic and kept stalling after a minute or so. I've uploaded a short video, and while I know it's not the greatest and there are probably heaps of variables - I'm hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction as to what to look for. There is no way I can limp it to the mechanics like this as it keeps stalling - so I'm hoping it will be a simple fix (leaky vacuum or something)? I did a search but doesn't seem like anyone has the exact problem I do nor on my engine. The car is a 1993 R32 GT-R - it does have a powerFC and splitfires but standard injectors, pump, AFM's, etc. http://www.filehosti...12/IMG_0466.MOV I stopped the vid just before the car stalled. I'll have to pull the plugs + AFM's out tomorrow when the sun comes up to check them - but if anyone has any advise before I start would be greatly appreciated (hoping to save my knuckles if I can)!

Hey guys hope you don't mind first post being a question been asking on 31 club but haven't had a lot of replies. I've recently installed a series 1 25 into my 31. 109,000 kms on engine Redtop J pipe (no bov) 2.5 fmic way to big. standard dump, de-cat and 3" blast pipes. GFB boost controller set at 8 psi Bosch 040 pump As you can see it's stock. I have checked all the vacuum lines and swapped the j pipe because I thought the spring in the bov was gone and leaking. I've checked all silicone joiners. I have a boost gauge hooked up in the engine bay to help with diagnostics, no boost spiking or drop so I'd have to say it doesn't have a vacuum leak. I've changed the afm out with a couple others took a lot of the missing away but not completely. I've tried screwing the icv all the way in as well as unplugging it to see if that was the issue. I've tried adjusting the tps and put it back to where it originally was. Now when you start it it'll idle for a few seconds at 500 then raise and settle to a thousand rpm. Between 1000 and 2000 rpm it has a slight hesitation, car will drop revs below idle when you back off the throttle. Anything over 2000rpm when you back off throttle if you don't blip it the car will completely stall. Even if you're doing 5 grand in 4th... I'm really stuck here and getting a little bit over everything if I'm honest I'd just look to put some km's on it. If anyone has any ideas please let me know anything else to add to the list to check, and a few tips on how to check it would be amazing.