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  1. Hey guys, I’m fairly new to this community and haven’t really ever posted about a topic before but I just wanted to get your guys feedback on Maxpeedingrods products such as coil overs. I have been running them for sometime now and bought a couple sets for various cars I have/have owned. Every experience seems to be the same, good quality and reliability for the price and a coilover that’s firm enough to slide really well. How many guys out there have been running them as well and what thoughts do you have? I 100% rate them in my own opinion and I do definitely see the benefits of very high end coilovers but they can’t be beat Maxpeedingrods at the price range for the firmness they offer, they hold up well with drifting and continuous hard driving if they are set up well. Thanks for reading and please let me know your experiences!
  2. GReddy Performance Damper Remote Control Kit For sale is a GReddy Performance Damper Remote Control Kit. It came with my GReddy type S coilovers that were installed on my S13 ~10 years ago. However, this kit has never been installed. I've simply carted it with me for nearly 10 years like some sort of automotive hoarder. As a result, the box is a little bent and some internal cardboard partitioning is missing. But the unit is in perfect condition. I've run it out and plugged all the components together to get my head around the wiring with the intent of installing, but that is as far as my lazy ass ever got. I kept it around with the intent of sticking it on my next car - an R34 with BC BR coilovers - because as I understand it, these also fit BC BR dampers. Still never installed them! Be aware, while these fit all GReddy Type S Performance Dampers (and some other makes), some require spacers to fit under the bonnet. No spacers are included here. $400. Willing to post nationally at buyers expense. Pickup available from Melbourne's S.E. 3169.
  3. Hi guys, I just came across a complete front subframe assembly for an r34, the title of the ad just says r34 so I’m presuming it’s a coupe. I have an R33 at home and was wondering if the r34 front subframe assembly will bolt straight into the r33. Im looking to do this with relatively little modification of its needed, also does anyone know if it will throw off the geometry of the car or if it’s okay to be doing this. Thank you very much if you’s can help guys .
  4. So guys i need some help with the rear subframe assembly for the r33 GTS-T. I just picked up an r33 shell and it comes with the R33 rear subframe, but im having trouble with knowing exactly what to purchase for the subframe, could any of you guys just give me a little checklist to write down so i know what to buy for it. Im relatively new to this stuff, so take it easy on me haha. Thanks
  5. Hey guys Sold my car and have some parts that never got a chance of using and some OEM used ones, basically a garage clean out will keep adding as i find more stuff. 1) Brand New in unopened box CST Type Vettel V36 coilovers fully adjustable with 14k front and 9k rear spring rates and 16 way damper. These are made in Japan and distributed by Tanabe. $1500 ono (pic of suspension out of box from google, i havent opened my box yet) 2) Blitz Power-sus intake panel filters also BNIB $120 3) V36 Type S and SP front lip kit ( Fibreglass sides with CF middle part, see pics) $550 ONO 4) RS-S LowDown springs BNIB $400 5) OEM Used Exhaust axle back Muffler and y-pipe $100 6) OEM Used Manifold $100 (good for anyone needing to send one into z1motorsports as core unit) 7) OEM Used rear chrome bootlip $50 8) OEM Used 18" V36 Coupe wheels made by enkei in excellent condition need tires $500 9) OEM Used 18" V36 Sedan Type SP wheels also in excellent condition (front tires good, rears need replacing) $500 10) BNIB plug and play V36 cruise control kit (comes with a little wheel knob that can be used to set/cancel and increase/decrease speed see pics) $500 ONO Thats all from the top of my head, like i said if i find more stuff ill keep adding. Offers only accepted if i have put an ONO next to the price or else its non-negotiable. PM will be the best way for enquiries and everything located Southwest of Brisbane
  6. Standard Cat Back, Good condition, came off car with 90000 on it, $220 Standard Shocks and Springs, also come off at 90000, $200 Standard Side mount cooler, $75, no piping.
  7. As above i'm looking to get some softness back into my ride.. Located in Sydney Thanks!
  8. So last night i took my car out for the first time for a mountain run and it wasnt great, brakes were not up to par and cornering resulted in lots of understeer and generally very sloppy. I know next to nothing about setting up suspension properly, all of the suspension is stock as far as i'm aware and i have coilovers on there, it squeaks when i go over bumps currently (i'm assuming bushes are worn out) and the brakes are 4 pot front and 2 pot rear (m spec stock brakes i think), i also have 225 tyres stretched over 9" wheels all round (getting 235's soon) my question is what should i be looking at getting suspension wise (adjustable arms etc) and what's a good brake upgrade for a 32?
  9. Rear suspension to suit: R33 Gts-t (Turbo) R34 Gt (Non-turbo) Made by Pedders Suspension, Stock height. - $100 R34 Front Seats - $200 Good condition, have been in storage. R33 Rear wiper & motor - $70 Perfect working condition. R33 S1 Aftermarket steering wheel adapter - $40 R34 OEM Tail lights - Good condtion, no cracks - $200 All items are pick up only. Sydney, NSW - Canterbury Region If interested just send me a PM, I will check them regularly.
  10. Hi all, looking for stock R33 GTS-T front and rear suspension (shocks/springs) - thank you!
  11. I’ve seen comments previously about changing the mounting locations of the LCA’s and wanted to get some knowledgeable comments. Front: Moving the bolt location on the subframe outwards by approx 20mm ?? Will the existing holes get welded or just drill out fresh points. Rear: Welding on a dropped mounting bracket the front mounting point fro the rear LCA? Will this cause issues with the alignment of the rear mounting bushes. Car is 90% Street / 8% Drag / 2% Track but 100% enjoyed. Already fitted: MCA XR coilovers, hardrace Castor arms, GKTech rear camber & traction arms. Thanks in advance.
  12. Just removed from my 34gtr only to go for a more drag oriented shock.. perfect working order except for one damaged plug as pictured , couldn't see it being an issue to fix $1500 anthony 0404444555 sydney
  13. Hi all mates; I wonder if any of you knows the codes of the OEM coilovers for this model. I mean, I checked amayama for the parts and in the manual there's different parts with different numbers. I don't wanna buy racing / sport because they're running around 1500k for a decent set but my car isn't that expensive anymore and my issue is only in the back and is a daily driver. I can't see why spend that much is suspension parts. I also don't know if the back left/right parts side are the same or not. Otherwise, is any of you able to direct me to some parts up to 700 dollars? By your experience, is it possible to find it? thanks in advance
  14. R34 Coilovers Hi guys, I have a set of JIC Magic coil overs which I am selling since my skyline was put back to stock height and sold. I would like to get around $750 for them but I'm happy to negotiate a fair price. located in Noble Park, Vic, 3174 message me on 0410 186 466
  15. I have a 2002 M35 Axis by Autech 2.5l turbo AWD Stagea and have to replace the shocks and tie rods. Does anyone know part numbers for Axis variant or failing that, am i able to fit the BC BR coilovers and ordinary AWD M35 parts as replacement on the Axis, not sure what the differences with suspension between Axis and normal are. Thanks Andrew
  16. Advice/Recommendations: R34 Suspension repairs + coilovers Hey guys. I took my R34 GTT to Pedders for a full Brake, Steering and Suspension check after noticing some changes in my steering and road feedback. Turns out I need about $1300 in wear and tear repairs, and I also need to replace all 4 shocks. They said the only company that would make shocks for my car would be Bilstein and I'd need to get their Sports range which would end up costing me a fortune, and I'd be better off getting coilovers. They quoted me $1900 extra ($3200 for everything) for their own coilovers. But they reckon the maximum ride height of their coilovers is slightly less than my current height (factory height), and I really don't want to lower it (my baby is all stock after all). I would prefer to get a full coilover conversion than just replace the shocks, but does this mean I will need to lower it a touch? Are the Pedders coilovers good quality? ie would you recommend them? or if not, who should I look at? Is the price quoted reasonable? Thanks for any and all advice!
  17. R32 GTR Standard Suspension R32 GTR Standard Suspension $350 Sydney, Australia Very good condition, no noises. Only selling because of upgrade. Located Western Sydney near Penrith.. Pickup Only Price $350 PM if interested
  18. my expierience with drummond motorsport Hello there, I wanted to let everyone know about my experience with the guys at DMS Wodonga and their street suspension. Being quite new to club sprint and circuit, having predominantly been involved in drifting for 13 years, I was looking to upgrade my HSD coil over kit for something better suited to racing. Being a local Albury boy I did my research and figured I wanted to spend my money locally with DMS. I noted that the brand is big in 4wd and off-road rally and came highly recommended. After the sales pitch about how their product is by far superior to competing offerings, I handed over $2100.00 for the Nissan S13 DMS street kit, I also had to supply my own top hats for front and rear. Once manufactured, the fronts went in without issue, although the ride height was hard to set as you have to keep winding preload into the spring to lift it. The rear is where the issues began, it would not fit on the first attempt. The body of the shock at the bottom mount hit the hub before even getting over the standard mounting pin. DMS had 2 attempts at correcting this before I had to get the car to the workshop for measure up After a few days I received a call, “Your roll centres are no good, you need uprights”. The DMS billet uprights were approximately 2k and as I was not prepared to spend 4k for the set, I bought the GKtech front and rear knuckles. A week later I got my car back and found that the rear knuckles had been modified to suit their coilover. The mounting pin had been moved and was a different size to standard S13 item. The coilover was now inverted with spring at bottom and damper control reservoir at the top. From here, this progressively got worse. I had to adjust the traction arm forward, so the coil didn’t hit the camber arm, and I needed 20mm spacers so my 18x10+20 rims didn’t hit the reservoir. After complaining I didn’t think this was right I was informed “I have put too many hours into this set up and that’s the way it has to be”. I did insist the mounting block at the bottom be extended 20mm to clear the rear upright, I got my way and they just managed to fit the rears the normal way. Ride height in the rear adjusted up and down by putting preload into keeper springs. There was so much droop the knuckles fouled on the suspension arms before the coilover was completely uncompressed - making life tough removing and fitting them to the car. Performance wise, my car was infinitely more difficult to drive - Understeered, oversteered, body roll it had it all. I made adjustments to ride height best I could, adjusted dampers, and still it handled poorly. My previous best at Winton was a 1:36.5 on second hand Nitto nt01 tyres. This was using HSD suspension and roll centres that measured underground. My new PB on the DMS set up was out at 1:44.4 on 1 session old Nitto nt01. I have now I ruined these tyres in 2 sessions, the suspension moving so much the tyres hit the guards and cut grooves into all 4 tyres to the wire. I contacted DMS to discuss further and after an exchange of words they agreed to come to the track and help with testing. In the mean time I installed an Air Conditioner into their show room for free, including materials (they paid cost for the unit) all in good faith and to prove that there hours trying to make this work didn’t go unnoticed. At the track we did damper adjustments, spring rate changes, camber adjustments, we took tyre pressures and temps and while the car did improve to a 1:37ish (timed on their phone) we are on a resurfaced track that people claim is 2-3 seconds faster - With that in mind, I’m still way off my first PB. We started with 275 pound springs in the back and 300 in the front and by end of the day we got to 500 pound springs in the rear and 550 in the front yet the car was still soft. Zip ties on the shock shaft are all the way to the top. I was not satisfied that I had spent my $2100 at the best shop and took them up on one of their previous offers to return the suspension and get a refund. Waiting a week, the refund was put into my account $300 dollars short of the total spend. When I asked why, they informed me that there is a re-stocking fee. I totally lost my cool with this decision which has led me to write this blog so others do not potentially encounter the same poor service and support that I’ve endured. To recap, I’m $300 down for a restocking fee, plus $800 down for a set of modified GKTECH rear knuckles that are good for nothing but their coilover’s, $700 down on materials and labour for the free split system install I did, and potentially $1400 for the nitto’s I ruined cutting grooves into them on the body work. That’s a total $3200 wasted, no suspension to show for it, and a PB that’s worse on a faster track. I should also add, this was over a 10 month period, so warranty period would have still applied. I feel that at the very least DMS should have a duty of care to make sure their parts are compatible with OEM components and should provide a performance benefit that warrants the purchase price and the claims. When that’s clearly not the case, more should be done to ensure customer satisfaction and in this case I have been left highly disappointed. Please do your homework before engaging DMS and hopefully you can avoid the same issues that I’ve encountered.
  19. Hey guys I'm reshelling my R33 after it got written off Anyway I dropped the rear subframe yesterday, I knew the subframe bushings were gonna be cactus and they sure are. Anyways I'm thinking I want to go with a hard bushing kit, I like it riding stiff, it's got BC gold coilovers in the rear, I want to do the diff bushings too Been told GKtech are ok but what do u guys think? I don't want to do this again, because it's taken ages working all this shit out I think the front end is all Nolathane, don't know how bad they are yet because I haven't dropped the front yet Any input would be awesome, also is there anything else I should be doin while its out? I'm deleting hicas and just subframe and diff bushings It's a daily driven car, won't see much track Didn't realise what I was getting myself in to with this rebuild lol
  20. Hey all, So I was driving home on friday afternoon in the rain when suddenly I started to feel my rear shocks oscilations much much more than usually. I thought I may have punctured a tire from a pot hole or some other debris so I pulled over. Inspected my tires, all seemed fine. Checked my tire pressures, were a bit low so today (after not driving since friday) pumped them up to 40psi (235/R18s all round) and took her for a test. Problem still persists. Once home I did a shock bounce test and found them to still feel solid. (I have BC BR coil overs only about a year old). I have mine set relatively firm because of how low the car is with no guards rolled, keeps me from scrubbing . Anyhow, decided to jack the car up and down in the rear end to make sure the shockies were still expanding and retracting with and without load. All seemed normal. Now I'm a little stumped. I hadn't felt or heard anything break before I started feeling the excessive bounce. The BC BR Coilovers are less than a year (if not just comming up to a year) old so I wouldn't imagine they'd have seized or failed already. I've got one theory (which I can't test until I get tools from the workshop tomorrow night) but perhaps if I back the firmness of the coils in the back off a little more, it may allow the shocks to absorb more of the shock rather than it being transfered to the wheels. I haven't seen any obvious bushes 'flogging' out when I had it last on the hoist either, that's not to say something hasn't happened spontaneously though. So I am stumped for now. Any one else had this problem? In Short: Problem: Boucy rear end Fixes Tried: - Tyre Pressures - Inspectated Tyres (fronts are new and rears use to be the front so they still have tread) - Suspension Bounce test - Jacked up rear to inspect load and no load operation of coil overs Yet to try: - Softening up the rear coils via adjustable dampening dials.
  21. I'm selling the below parts off my GTT. They are all the old parts I had laying around after doing my last upgrades, most are in great condition. Rear suspension | R34 GTT (fork type) - JIC Magic (Left seems to have lost pressure), otherwise excellent condition, no rubber cracks at all - $200 Stock internal fuel pump for R34 GTT - $50 Stock air flow meter - $50 Stock cat converter - $50 Stock mirrors in gloss black, great condition but right mirror is missing the plastic that connects to door - $50 Return flow intercooler 600x240x60, excellent condition - $200 Rear seat belts with coils, excellent condition - $50 Rear stock seats, slight staining on seats but can probably be cleaned - $150 Stock right head light, none xenon, broken clips and floating clear plastic bit on inside - $200 I have pictures of everything so just send me a text on 0431516718 and I'll send a picture of whichever part. Pickup from Adelaide or bank deposit+postage at buyers expense. Cheers, Tom
  22. A couple months ago I noticed my r33 gtst hicas ball joints were flogged but neglected the issue. I recently had a full wheel alignment done and the rear end is still snaking under acceleration and deceleration, so i decided I'd better have a closer look at the problem. As expected the balljoint are creating play and they need to be replaced asap. I've had a solid look on the net for the best upgrade without buying a whole hicas lockout system and not much luck. I have a lock bar already and i dont want to tamper with the aligment since i just paid for one. Does anyone know where i can get solid bushes to replace the worn ball joints or what the best upgrade would be. this is the only option i have found so far - http://www.jdmgarageuk.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=843. I've herd rubber(non solid bushes) would create unwanted play...
  23. Make an offer if you need something Most parts are from a series 2 but should also fit series 1's Pickups from Mt.Gravatt Brisbane,i can drop them off locally or post... -Standard rearbar Has a few light scratches & scuffs but is otherwise in good condition Original stock red paint $200 ono These are all the aircon parts i have,not sure if they are from series 1 or 2 s14 as they were removed from a halfcut I will sell these parts seperately. -Heater core box $50 -Heater blower motor $50 -Evaporator unit $50 -Compressor pump $75 -AC line[compressor to evaporator] $25 -Complete set of stock suspension They have done 100,000 K's,condition unknown as they came with the car $150 ono -Nabco slave cylinder Was working fine when removed $30 ono -Stock toe arms In good condition $40 ono -Stock castor arms In good condition $40 ono -Ashtray $15 ono
  24. As the title states i have a full set of R34 gt-t suspension for sale, i just took them off my 34 last week after an inspection at the pits. Also have the front pair of GTR shocks available. $90 taking offers on the gt-t shocks $120 taking offers on the front GTR shocks All in good condition, no knocks or leaks.
  25. hey guys was looking into lowering my R34 when i ran into a few problems. Im running 10.5" rear tyres and 9.5" fronts. Now, because the front tyre has ben stretched to fit the rim (rim pokes slighty out of the tyre) the front wishbone rubs on the INSIDE of the rim at full lock (refer to picture). Does anyone have any suggestions as to how i can lower the car and avoid any further contact with the wishbone? ideally spacers is an option but dont want the wheels to look ridiculous sticking too far out of the gaurds. ive attatched a few photos you can refer to if im not quite making sense, cheers guys
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