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wtb oil sender unit for an RB25 Need the oil Gauge sender unit for an RB25. mines not working In Sydney thanks

Wtb. Attesa pressure switch Want to buy attesa pressure switch for nm35. And the seller would be willing to send the product to finland Or if you know somewhere affordable prices the entire pump unit so you would be nice of you inform me

Disclaimer: There's a lot of people recommending to do this mod, but I haven't seen any idiotproof guides on how to do it. I'm not saying this is the best way to do this mod, it's just how i've done it - and hopefully this will help others, even if they don't follow my way 100%. Brief overview: The general consensus is that from Factory, M35 Stageas limit throttle to 30% for up to 3 seconds after releasing the brake pedal. This can prevent good launches/coming out of corners faster. By cutting the signal wire to the ECU, we can maintain full throttle immediately after releasing the brake. It is OK to cut this wire, however you will get a Check Engine Light after some time. By rigging it up to a switch, you are able to disable/enable the mod freely. Behind the glovebox is the ECU. You will need to dissemble the passenger side interior to access this, there's other guides online on how to do this - so I will assume you have your glovebox out and are looking at the ECU. Pull the plastic off guard off the ECU connector, it clicks off the 4 tabs on each corner. Find the VIOLET wire with the BLUE stripe - you can see it in pictures 1 + 4 of this post. I cut this wire, and attached either side to a terminal block. You can pick these up from JayCar very cheaply - I used a terminal block because I don't trust myself to solder wires coming directly off the ECU. I then picked up a small, discrete ON/OFF toggle switch (also from JayCar), which I mounted in my Glovebox - see pictures 2 + 3. Lastly just attach these wires to the remaining spots on the terminal block. Test the switch while everything is apart - This way you can fix any problems before reassembling. Done! Picture 4 of this post explains the above if anyone is unclear. Some people have hooked this up to the reverse switch in the car, so they don't have to touch the switch ever - however I like the idea of a toggle, so I can limit throttle power when a family member/friend drives the car.

I've been having trouble with intermittent and broken power windows on the R32. Using the information from https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291360-power-window-stuck-electric-window/?do=findComment&comment=4878899 I found that: most of the problems were resolved by cleaning the switches, the last issue was fixed by re-soldering the relay in the "amplifier". Also the drivers side switch can be opened and fixed too. So, the drivers switch internals; As you can see it has the same problem as the passenger switch shown in the post linked above. That post says "10) STOP! dont try to pry apart the circuit board any further.. as you will break it.. if you look at this picture you can see that due to this whole assembly being screwed down THEN soldered in the nissan factory.. its not possible to remove this, so i just sprayed the cleaner as much as possible inside and re-assembeled everything, i suppose if it got really broken in there you could cut the circuit board to remove those 2 tiny little screws you see in the pic and get in there" I eventually managed to get the assembly apart by removing the screws (the circuit board untouched) then flexing the black plastic. However there was some damage; Perhaps you will have better luck. Anyway that break is not bad enough to cause issues and since the swtich was not usable anyway i figured i had nothing to loose. So after clean up; And, similar to what i found on the passenger side, the switch contacts were badly pitted; So i reversed the orientation of these pieces before reinstalling them, hoping that may help them last a little longer. Now putting the pieces in place; And then carefully lowering the cap back onto the switch, making sure the switch lever points sit in the valleys before pushing it together. The tabs click into place and i left the screws out as the switch is very solidly mounted without them, and they would be very difficult to get back in. After all that, I still had intermittent operation of down on the drivers side window. Up always worked, and up and down always worked on the passenger side. I found that the issue was due to dry joints on the surface mounted relay in what Nissan calls the "power window amplifier". This is a black box mounted under the door trim, occupying the space under the elbow rest/shelf/whatever that's called. Its attached by a metal bracket with two screws into the door shell. To get inside the box, I put some sandpaper on a flat surface then wore away one long edge and the short edge opposite the plug end. The plug end is not bonded to the cap in that end, so now we have three sides of the box that are "free" and can then flex the side open. Sorry - should have taken photos. Once open there is a single circuit board with two surface mounted relays (that is, the relays are soldered directly onto the board). I noticed that two of the joints appeared to have a little carbon around them. From the service manual, the amplifier pin out is; To operate the relays, apply +12v to pin 4, then connect ground to 1 and 2 to drive the relays. The intermittent operation occurred on the relay with the carboned up joints, and those joints didn't look like they'd been soldered well (they should look concave). I applied heat to the solder joints to have the solder re-flow onto the relay pin and board run. Re-checked them by applying voltage and they were now working well. If you want to multimeter test the drivers side switch, facing the switch and labelling pins as Drivers window; 1 & 2 - open circuit, connected on UP and AUTO UP 1 & 3 - open circuit, connected on DOWN and AUTO DOWN 1 & 4 - open circuit, connected on AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN Passenger window; 1 & 7 - connected, open circuit on UP and DOWN 7 & 9 - connected, open circuit on UP 1 & 9 - connected, open circuit on DOWN

indicator lights will not turn off hey guys, so i recently had some problems with my 2003 v35 skyline coupe. my window was left down in the rain and my drivers side window stopped working. it was stuck down so i pulled off the door skin to try and get the window up. i was unable to do so i unpluged the battery to try and do a reset and when i re connected it my indicators were stuck on. not flashing but just stuck on solid. the only way to turn them off is to disconnect the battery. i have since replaced the window motor and switch. does anyone know what might be causing it?

hi guys, just got a skyline r33 gts and it wont switch off once i take the key out. even though its meant to be the turbo timer, i dont see no turbo timer located anywhere in the car. so what could the issue be ? thanks.

Hello and Merry Xmas to All, If youre like me you are attempting to dodge family by browsing the forums looking for quick holiday fixes for your car. I bought a 4 door r32 and only the drivers window button is attached. I have tge other three (and 3 little plastic rectangle things) in the console and have tried to attach them with no luck. I press them on but they dont want to stay in. Any ideas before i get frustrated and break something? There has to be a hack/trick to getting them on for good?

I'll give you guys the quick run down. But actually figuring it out is up to your own abilities. I assume if you own a gtr, you should know how to do some sort of maintenance, disassembly, or repair. List of items: Solder Station 3mm 5000 - 20,000 mCD LED at 30 degree - 45 degree focus beam (Green, orange, red, white, cool white) Know your LED specs! Forward Voltage, Forward Current, Supply Voltage Any of these LEDS are good: http://www.mouser.com/.../Standard-LEDs.../_/N-b1bc8... Next is your resistor. Below is a resistor calculator https://www.digikey.com/.../conversion-calculator-led... For instance, I used a 3.2v LED, 20mA, and we know that cars use 12v. So I needed a ~440 Ohms resistor .176 watt. It's safe to go with 500mW. The best resistors are metal film. They reduce noise (LED Flicker), better tolerances for voltage spikes, and higher heat handling. These are the resistors I used. REMEMBER TO USE YOUR RESISTOR CALCULATOR!! Good choices here (470 ohm 500mW):http://www.mouser.com/ProductD.../Vishay/CMF55470R00FKR6/... On each specific switch, as shown in the video here on this forum, there are rubber 'bulb condoms' that sit inside the switch. They're ass, take em, shit on them, throw them away. Remove the switches from your facia after you've taken it out. You'll have to unscrew them. Makes it easier, and there is a reason for this. Hide your empty facia somewhere. You won't need it for now. Plug your removed switches into your harnesses. Turn on your running lights. Get your red or some colored paint pen. Take a spare LED that's been wired with your resistor, and touch negative or positive to your contacts and do some guess work on the polarity. Don't short your LED out unsure emoticon Once you've found the correct polarity direct, mark your hot wire with your pen After you got the marks, I mean it's basic soldering. Red to Pos terminal, Black to negative terminal. It'll take some fenaggling to get the LED into the hole, but you'll just have to be patient. Use some epoxy or RTV to glue the led in place. This is to hold the LED in the correct position, or it'll bounce all over the place because it ain't got a condom. For the window switch. It's just clipped into the door panel. Pry it out gently. It's difficult to find the location of the clips so you don't break them. Took me a bit. There will be a yellow cover on the back of the main window switches. Take mini screw drivers and pry off the clips. Once you get it, you'll see a circuit board with a T3 socket. I decided to just solder in an led (after testing my polarity using the same method above). Take down with epoxy and good to go. Before your decide to snap everything back together and start driving, test out your switches to make sure they even work. Also, you can test the illumination. If you're feeling froggy, this is the perfect time to completely disassemble your switches and clean / lubricate them. I got rid of some electrical gremlins when I did this. I also flowed solder on the circuit board. Standard LEDs - Through Hole | Mouser Standard LEDs - Through Hole are available at Mouser Electronics. Mouser offers inventory, pricing, & datasheets for Standard LEDs - Through Hole. MOUSER.COM