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Found 8 results

  1. On my R33DET the radiator starts to get warm pretty early, it'd say possibly from 40C onwards, so not long after start. Is this normal or should the thermostat stay closed for longer (they do have an opening slope) Thanks
  2. This oil cooler kit came off a Toyota AE111 (4AGE) but can be used with other cars. For sale: Mocal 16 row oil cooler with Mocal fittings, Mocal thermostated sandwich plate and custom lines. Only had this on the car for long distance driving, which equated to 2400kms. It looks as good as new. Price: $400 ono Location: Sydney. Prefer pick up but will ship to other states. Contact: PM me for all queries. Thanks!
  3. Akshunhiro

    M35 thermostat for $40 Hey all, Just an FYI for cooling improvements for your Stag. The V35 thermostat 21200-4W01B which suits VQ series is only $40 from Kudos Motorsports. Figured this would be good info as it's a good medium between the stock 82 and Nismo/Mishimoto 65 @ 76.5 Happy cooling, JB.
  4. Hi guys, i have an issue at the moment with my brothers Nissan. I changed his water pump and thermostat with genuine Nissan items and did his fanbelts. Pressure tested his radiator and that seemed to have no leaks. i thoroughly flushed his cooling system at least 4 or 5 times since changing those items. i got the engine to operating temp and then dumped the coolant from radiator drain plug. waited til engined cooled and topped up with coolant. got engine back to operating temp and repeated process. Now the issues is that while in traffic (even standstill peak hour) the temp doesnt go over halfway. Once out on the open road doing 100km/h it seems the engine temperature keeps climbing up to 2/3rds or 3/4s and he has to pull over. What could be the issue? The coolant reservoir is cold and has coolant in it, he turned the heater on max heat and that seems to have kept the temp down so he can drive home but i want to know what issues there could be?
  5. New Z32 and plug $250 posted New Bosch 040 $150 posted New Gates racing timing belt and NSK idler and tensioner bearings $150 posted (RB25DET) New Nissan Rb25 Thermostat $25 posted New Gates Racing 4PK965R, 4PK925R and 4PK835R Ancillary Belts $25 posted New Tuneagent SS highmount turbo manifold $50 pickup Splitfire Coilpacks SF-DIS-005 Used some were sparking although should be a few good spares $50? SS Dump pipe 3" RB25DET Flange unsure what it was off $25 Plus postage Alloy Airbox/Filter heatshield unsure what it fits maybe R33 GTS-T? $25 Plus postage Stock Bits R33 GTS-T S2 Offers? or going to scrap RB25det Stock Turbo blown seals washer bottle frontpipe + Gutted cat Intake Plenum Crossover pipe with BOV Intake snorkel Throttlebody Located Canberra PM/SMS/call Cameron O418 687 94O
  6. Hi guys I'm reposting from here and here as this is going a bit beyond the scope of the original threads. Anyway I've just had the Driftworks oil cooler kit install completed on my R34 GTT: Mocal/MIH 19 row Oil Cooler Mocal 92 degree thermostatic sandwich plate Braided oil cooler hoses Sandwich plate fittings The cooler seems to work well - in fact too well - as I can't seem to get my oil temp up to the recommended range even after a long drive. Test drives so far (all light cruising until I sort out the temps): Melbourne to Torquay, 1.5h freeway, Defi oil temp is reading 55-60 degrees, ambient temp just under 20 Torquay to Melbourne, oil temp ~60 degrees, ambient temp 25 Suburban driving, slower speed, oil temp 55-64 degrees, ambient temp 25 ... I can think of a couple of potential causes: 1. Maybe the thermostatic wax pellet in the sandwich plate is not working and the cooler circuit is stuck open or opens too early? Trying the core by hand it's hot but not unbearable. It's definitely flowing a lot of oil during each drive, and well below the expected 92 C opening mark. Also driving a couple of k's from cold start you can feel the oil cooler feed hose getting warm straight away whilst return stays cool. 2. I previously had the temp sensor in a separate sandwich plate with oil flowing through it. For this install the workshop removed the factory pressure sensor and teed off that point – I'm guessing this might be after the filter as opposed to before, which would explain the lower reading? Here's how the Defi temp sensor is sitting at the OEM oil pressure sensor location (the other end of the T-piece is currently blank waiting for the Defi pressure sensor): I did some quick temp measurements off the sump earlier tonight (externally using a laser thermometer) and found the following: Defi oil temp reading 53C – sump 68-70C Defi oil temp reading 61C – sump 76C Defi oil temp reading 64C – sump 75C This might support the theory that the OEM oil pressure sensor point is not ideal for getting oil temps? What do you guys think: a faulty thermostat, incorrect temp sensor location, or both?
  7. My R34 GTT shows moderately high oil temperatures (100+) and bit of steam coming out of the radiator. Water temperature shows normal though. Car cools down in few minutes after I stop but Im not dirving it anymore until I fix the issue. So Im upgrading the entire cooling system (radiator, pipes, thermostat and water pump). Im looking at a 40mm aluminum radiator from ebay. Replacing the radiator is a kids job. But how hard is it to get to the thermostat and water pump? I could find topics on RB25DET but not much info on the Neo engines. Any leads on this would be much appreciated. Thanks guys
  8. Grex sandwichplate flow direction? Hi! I'm in the progress of installing an oil cooler in my R33. It's a Grex/Greddy oil cooler kit which includes everything you need for Installing, all good. The question is I'm not sure which port on the thermostat that is inlet an which is outlet? (look at picture) BTW will the Grex thermostat allow any oil through the oil cooler when the Engine is still cold? or do I have to wait until it opens to be able to top up the oil level? Thanks in advance!