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Vq25det Trigger pattern Hi guy's, does anyone know if the vq35 has the same trigger pattern as the vq25det. Ive looked and not luck. Im guessing there not, if so has anyone used emu ecu? i have spoken to them and if it has the same triggers pattern the a piggyback ECU will work, if not they said the can configure it to work.

Want to buy a Crankshaft Sproket (timing belt gear) to suit rb26 Thanks

Vq25dd cam chain marks Hi all I have a problem with my Vq25dd in my skyline Iv put new chains on but for the life of me I can't figure out the what the marks mean on intake side i can find heaps of info on other models but not the DD series

Hi all, Haven't posted on here before, so hopefully this is the right section! Recently I encountered a problem where my R33 would not start. The engine cranks, but it will not catch and turn over. I checked all the basics: spark plugs were fouled, changed out with new matching plugs with same gap, coils firing, injectors pulsing, getting fuel, no cooling pipe leaks that I can see or hear. Eventually I had someone come round and the only way we could get the car started was to physically advance the CAS timing slightly and the engine fires right up. I'm running some light modifications: PowerFC (car has been tuned etc..) GTX3076r Turbo 740cc injectors Z32 AFM Walbro pump (not sure which one) LS1 coilpacks (direct on coil incl. igniter) Once the car is idling with the timing advanced slightly, the powerFC is showing 20 degrees, with my base ignition timing being 15 degrees originally. The maps and settings on ECU have not been changed since it was tuned several years ago and has run perfectly fine for years, so I'm wondering if I'm most likely looking at an issue with timing belt jumping some teeth? Any insight would be great! I don't have a timing light at the moment and wanted to see what some thoughts were before trying to start working out how to verify alignment of everything. Cheers!

CAS sensor problem Hi guys, Advance timing = anti clockwise rotation on cas = higher timing value on pfc Retard = clockwise = lower timing value Right? The issue is, my pfc reads lower timing when i advance , and higher value when i retard. Will this point out to a faulty CAS or wiring between the 2 signal wires swapped around ? my mechanic recently did an FFP upgrade and he messed around with some of the wirings, because he wanted to tidy up the engine bay. Hoping if any can shed some light if its a simple as just swapping the wires or should i replace the cas?

I've got a set of Racepace adjustable cam gears from an old motor, that I would like to install into my new engine and they've been dialed in for the previous setup. My question is whether or not it will be fine to install as per normal? I.E. take stock gears off, bolt adjustable gears on, line up dots on cam gears to timing cover back plate, line up timing pulley to oil pump mark and install timing belt and idler and tensioner as per usual. Or will installing this way cause me to be a tooth (or more) out / screw up the timing? Pics to show where the cam gears are currently adjusted to I also have the head currently off and taking the stock cam gears off caused a slight ANTI-CLOCKWISE movement. I've been told to check the alignment ONLY from CLOCKWISE rotation. Would it matter if I just aligned the cam gear timing marks regardless of rotation direction, considering the head is off at the moment? Finally, I will be heading to the tuner ASAP after I have the car up and running, it will only be light driving to get it rwc'ed, registered and next destination would be the tuner's workshop. Thanks in advance

Need timing info on RB25DE NEO Hi all, I've got a pinging/pre ignition detonation sound, can hear it when cold with the engine under a bit of load. I put the timing light on the car but I used the white loop at the back of the coil harness and didn't disconnect the TPS which you're apparently supposed to do.. so not sure how accurate this timing reading was, i'm not too sure if this is where the timing should be and have serched everywhere and I all get is bloody 25DET stuff, which im unsure if its the same timing as 25DE. Another thing to note is that my CAS is backed almost all the way to one side as shown here (I made the yellow marking) Would just like to know where the timing should be or if its already correct etc Thanks

Should I retard timing? Specs Rb20 Rb25 turbo running 12psi FMIC Turbo back. Walbro 255 car runs fine just don't know if there's something I should do to protect it a little more before getting a proper tune. Only thing it does different from stock is after I've given it a bit of juice, while on deceleration if I tap the throttle it'll BANG!! But that's it. Any feedback would be sweet. Cheers.

I just needed the timing belt changed but even that turned out to be complex with this car. I knew I bought a well modified one but I expected most tuner garages would be able to set my mind at ease when changing a belt. I bought a new belt, tensioner, idler and water pump to go on, I thought that was easy enough but it took about an hour for them to get the uprated balancer off. I can say I got slightly angry at them when they attempted to use a crow bar instead of the correct puller tool to do this. Eventually they got the right puller tool and as expected, it came off nicely. It's good to know everything was nice and clean down there, no visible leaks, no major wear that needs looking into so I'm happy from that perspective. So, I did let them know that my timing was set at 20 degrees and that the intake and exhaust cams were offset at various mm settings on the HKS gears. Why on earth I found 'tip-ex' on the engine I will never know, surely there's a better way of determining the positions or some way of locking the cams/crank. If you thought that was a nightmare, this is where the trouble really begins and my mechanical knowledge probably doesn't help at this point: - The way they had marked it had the the crank offset by 1 tooth from its position (there is a little notch on the crank that shows this). They didn't align the gears and crank to where they are when you usually set a timing belt up because the said that the timing was different. I knew the engine was set up at 20 degrees so I just trusted that they knew what they were doing. At this point, all done, no interference and boom, CAS back on, in the center where it was marked with tip-ex. The engine didn't start, it just backfired and I'm suddenly panicking that they're breaking my car. So, they check a few things as they didn't seem to believe me when I said that I've never flooded the engine by just turning it on and off before so it shouldn't just flood randomly if it's set up properly. It does have big injectors though so I see their point. So after taking the packs off and checking all is where it should be, the engine, once again, backfires and doesn't start. Upon determining this was a timing issue, they proceeded to strip it all down again and at this point said they had no choice but to put the crank at the notch, put the cam gears at their set positions and try again. All done, ready to start and the car just started backfiring again and at this point, they were saying that I needed to get the person who built the engine to tell me how it was set up so that they could get it right. I pulled out my phone and gave an experienced engine builder a call who said that the problem sounded like they had snapped the little 'D' inside the CAS off and that no matter where the CAS was positioned, I'd never have the correct timing. We checked, and I had to put the builder on the phone with the mechanic as they were trying to tell me that I was misunderstanding but I knew what was going on now, the 'D' was missing from the cam and thus the CAS wasn't positioned correctly. The builder told them to inspect thoroughly that the piece wasn't to be found anywhere to confirm as this could have happened before at a previous timing belt change. This was probably the case because the metal that was left wasn't shining like a clean cut and was a bit dull and had bits of residue. Upon placing the CAS properly into the cam, it started up and sounded fine and was the bubbly little idle tick over that I have it set at on the computer. Concerns So, now I'm really confused at whether the timing is actually set up correctly at all. I don't fully understand the cam/crank timing so I don't really know whether the belt should be set up to be a tooth out. They did mark the positioning of the old belt with this horrible tip-ex the first time. Both times the crank could be turned around twice without interference so I'm now worrying that maybe the timing was meant to be out by a tooth. I do have 264 toda cams and I don't really know whether having the crank off by 1 results in anything opening earlier or later etc. Since it was always the CAS that was the problem, I never got to hear/feel how the car was/would have driven when it was on the original marked settings. I keep saying to myself that the marks were probably just done wrong by the guys there and it is now set up properly but ugh!!! I have always heard that if the crank is out by 1, the engine would barely run or at the very least, would be less than optimal. At the moment the car is driving fine but I've got this worry in the back of my mind that something could be wrong. I could swear it feels a bit laggier too but that could just be because I've been driven back to my home in my friend's R35 GTR which isn't as quick as mine once the turbo is going but has next to no lag. Furthermore, if it does turn out that the crank was meant to be off by 1, can this be rectified by adjusting the cam gears/CAS/timing on the laptop?

Hey everyone, I'm after some help. Im trying to check the timing on my rb20det. Am I right in saying that number 1 cylinder is the first cylinder after the inlet and exhaust cams. I hooked my timing light up to the black loop wire at the back of the motor and my harmonic balancer degree was about 35 degree. I want to hook it up to number one plu to check that the other reading could have been possibly doubled. Also I have a autronic Eccu and a auto trans. What should the timing be set up to? Can anyone help me out? Thanks in advance

Hi all I am happy with the state of my tune and power delivery (263kwatw). Knock sits between 15-30 on an average day (say between 20-28 degree temp day) The highest i've seen knock was at about 42-43, but that was on a 36+ deg day and me giving it some (prob not the best idea i know) Using map tracer, when on full load (about 1.1 bar), I generally use L14 and L15 on the map. Exh temp sits around 600-700 degrees when on light load areas higher in the map where timing is around 35-40 deg. What do you guys think of the timing map?

Most likely one of the thousands of posts about idle problems with an RB engine. So, my r34 has been running like a dream. I've owned it for about 4 months, and never had a single problem. Put in a boost controller myself about 2 months ago, never had a problem. In the last week, my car has decided to drop to 500RPM when warm, and at a complete stop, and in the last day, it's done the same thing, but the idle was very rough and a bit up and down. Here's a video of my car idling, ignore the engine as for some reason on camera it comes out to be extremely loud, but IRL is a lot quieter for some reason. I just wanted you to focus on the exhaust pattern, as that's what I'm referring to when I say rough idle. This morning when I cold started it, it did the rough idle thing, dropped to 500RPM, and went rough, rough rough and then stalled for the first time ever, started it up 2 seconds later and was all good, started fine no worries. I took of the cam cover to check the timing belt, but it looks like it's in very good condition. No tears or anything. Here's the video: R34 idle Problems I'm in need of some feedback if possible, just some recommendations on what I should look to fix, maybe if someone has experience the same problem I'm having. Cheers heaps guys!

Hi ther all friends and foes, i have recently had huge problems with my RB25det S2 (auto) , wher the car is running fine when cold, when it starts getting up to temp its starts to mess up, somtimes at 3000 somtimes at 4000, and when its warm up its ok agen. At one od the videos below, i have full throtle, car struggels and dosent do anything, then hits 4000rpm and it launches. Btw. Dont mind the temp gauge, belive the sensor for the gauge is messed up so it lives it own life Ther is no air leaks, no vacume leaks, coils are new, plugs are new, tried replacing maf 2 times. When MAF is disconekted the engien wil stop. Alsow from what i can finde online, the tps is supose to have 5v (i have around 4.5) when fully open, and betwen 0.3-0.5 when closed (alot of wierd answers on the internett) Stuff that have recently been done: - Adjusted timing to 15° (pulled TPS and Brown idle controll valve stick) - New coils - New plugs "Mods" -3" exhaust from turbo and back - pod filter 20190319_211111.mp4 20190319_211250.mp4

Hello. Recently picked up an R33 GTST, S1.5, and I am very worried about the timing issues. The car ran rich when I got it, which was fixed by adjusting the TPS to correct voltage, but the idle seemed a little off still. I took it and got it retuned, as the last tune was very old and outdated. The car made 425 RWHP on a hub dyno, at 15 PSI. Tuned on Apexi Power FC and a GT3582. The car has very little knock on the hand controller, and seems to run fine. The tuner said however he had to advance the timing a massive amount, and believes the ECU is misreading timing, and it is an ECU fault. The timing degrees is at mid to high 20's under full boost, which seems very high. Again, low knock (under 30) on Power FC sensor. It was running similar timing to this for the last 7-8 year apparently, and had a very similar ignition map on the old tune. What's the go with this? How can I get the timing to a 'normal' level? Has the belt slipped? CAS failed? I am concerned the Power FC knock reading is inaccurate and I don't want this car to explode, as Covid tax meant this was not a cheap buy! Cheers all!

I Have an R34 GT N/A and I rebuilt it and converted the working engine With: -CP Neo forged pistons -Manley Rods -Garret Gt3071r DDB Turbo -Series 2 stock fuel rail and injectors -Series 2 exhaust manifold -SplitFire Neo coils - New iridium NGK Plugs -255 Walbro Fuel Pump -Freddy Forward Facing intake -Stock GTT R34 NEO Turbo ECU -Many Many more.... After my conversion build with all new parts, i primed it and started on the first Crank. CURRENT STATUS: -Crank and starts instantly every single time and runs only when applying throttle THE PROBLEMS - Sounds great however it if you do not apply throttle and leave her idle, she is struggle to breathe and stutters and will die - Jumps up and down the rev range by her self - Cannot find a decent idle and when she does its not for long - After reeving and she goes back down she dies - Sometimes when reeving she break up on her own SOLUTIONS/TROUBLE SHOOTING - TPS sensor needed to be adjusted to get the right Ohms. After we fixed it it seemed to be more consistent when reeving and staying and holding at an RPM's and slightly better idling. - Idle air Controller, adjusted the screw and tried over 10 positions, although it actually really helped idling it still did not cure the dying at idle problem and finding a good idle problem. NEXT STEP (tomorrow) Take a look at the base/ignition timing with a timing light to the notches on the crank pulley and adjust it with the CAS sensor? DOES ANYONE HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH IGNITION TIMING? HOW DO I DO IT PROPERLY? WHAT DO THE NOTCHES INDICATE? WHAT NOTCH DO I WANT TO BE AT? ANY ADVICE IS GREATLY APPRECIATED

Ignition Timing for RB25DET Manual with Auto ECU I have a 1996 ECR33 GTS25T RB25DET which was a factory automatic. It has been converted to a manual but still has the auto ECU. The previous owner had apparently removed the CAS to supposedly check the cambelt, then installed it centre. Now my question is for you guys, is what is the actual base timing degree to set ? I have read that is supposed to be 10*,15*,20* for an auto ? So what is the actual base ignition timing degree value to set for an auto ECU or is the same as the manual ECU ? Thanks in advance

Cam dial in Hey all, bit of a brains trust question here. I have kelford cams that I have dialled in exactly to the specs I'm given, and my cold compression test is 170 psi. Was 145 with poncams. This extra pressure makes it impossible to tune. I have dialled them in to within 0.02mm of correct lift at 1mm degree point. At a loss as to why pressure is so crazy high. I'm thinking too much intake advance but it's perfect. Brainstorm please

Hi all, I have a question. My base timing is set at 20 btdc by my tuner, and im sure it was 20 degrees before this, but I have just put on a ross balancer, and whenever i pull stuff apart I disconnect CAS so as to check everything over before re-connection and starting. Now I had a tune 1000 ish kms ago and I had Adjusted CAS previous to that to 20 degrees, he checked it and locked it into the ecu, and said it was good. However when I adjusted it, I hadnt tightened the bolts right up. 2 loose and 1 just nipped up a bit. All would be good but i may have moved it when disconnecting. So I tightened it up where it was. Check timing and its at 15 degrees, now the only variable is the balancer marks, My old one looked ok, I thought it might be rotated a little but seems fine. Now i trust the ross one is perfect. So having retarded timing (i think) i figured no damage can happen, so i went for a drive, I only take it out every few weeks so I didnt notice any power difference. However I did a 4th gear pull right out and it had the odd cough feeling hesitation on full boost a couple of times and throughout the drive. It never has before. So ill get to the point, is there a way to tell where it should be vs where ecu thinks it is? Would the ross timing marks be perfect with stock balancer? Just need some confirmation I dont want to set it at 20 and it be wrong. Im sure iv just bumped it around a tad but not sure if theres a way to make certain so I hope someone can clear this up. Oh and I wasnt doing the 4th pull on the public road either. It was a local private air strip. Thanks in advance

Hi everyone, I’m relatively new to the RB-series world and definitely new when it comes to timing an engine using G4+ link. My car was running well, and then I decided to take everything apart and powder coat it. The engine bay is looking GREAT! However, I can’t get timing right, the idle is all over the place, and it’s backfiring consistently, which I think is causing the engine to overheat as well. Timing is set at 15 degrees on g4+, but I can’t seem to be able to match that on the crank using a timing light Things I messed with: 1. CAS 2. TPS 3. idle control valve Things I observed: Idle: 1,100 to 2,200 RPM, lost of misfire crank timing: 5 degrees How can I get the CAS (at 15 degrees), TPS, and idle control valve to be happy with each other? Any procedures? I’m here to learn! Thank you, Eric

Hey guys, im fairly new to the forums but i had a brand new Gates Timing Belt and water pump kit with all seals and gaskets needed todo the job. I paid 360$ with shipping around a year back for the kit, but i never got around to needing to use it as i barely drive my r34. I have attached a picture for you to see, Item:Gates Timing Belt+Water Pump Kit Location: Western Sydney Price: $340 O.N.O(On Negotiable Offer) This kit suits rb25det engines and as far i am aware it fits rb26 as well but confirm with a professional before purchasing. Make me an offer as i need cash and dont need this lying around.

Hey team, I've had this stuff kicking around for awhile now. Time to move it on! Prices are nice and cheap Fujitsbo 3" catback exhaust suit FD3S - $50 Front pipes 3" suit RB26 + catalytic converter - $50 R32 GTR Standard Airbox, no piping - $30 2 x R32 Skyline doors - with windows / mirrors and door trims, gunmetal grey in ok condition, few scratches and a small dent. - $50 RB20 valley cover - no bolts - $15 R32 Skyline door scuff guards, pair - $10 4 channel amp wiring kit, used once - $40 Alpine MRP-F450 amp - $70 Fusion Powerplant 6x9 2 way speakers 280 WATTS - less then 10hrs use - $50 CBC Timing belt kit suit RB engine - $50 Calibre pod filter, never used - $20 R32 GTR Cluster - 96 xxx km's - $40 All items are located in Wattle Grove, NSW Pick up is preferred! Cheers

OK so turbod my r34 Rb25de neo car is half tuned as turbo blew and spent all my money on a new one haha OK so I'm not happy with the knock levels bad timing set 15btdc have set all timing in map to low but so bloody hard trying to get power without knock the load timing is hurting my brain haha most of my map I set to 18 load and rpm and upd injectors Correction from 1000 to 1400 barley any knock but just all feels crap so was wondering if anyone had a pic of there maps I can copy just for a base start for rb25+t 5-10psi and maybe injector map thanks people R33 5speed gearbox conversion R33 rebuilt turbo R33 turbo manifold Gtt injectors R32gtst4det fuel pump Power FC ecu and controller Big front mount cooler Turbo smart bleed valve New 3"pipe decat and r32 custom dump R34na 02sensor R34 na pink label afm ..

Hi Guys, Up for sale is my brand new-unopened Nismo RB26 Timing belt: From RHD Japan: The NISMO RB26DETT Engine Parts - Reinforced Timing Belt will work on any of the RB Series engines found in the Skyline`s, Cefiro`s, Cedric`s, Gloria`s, Stagea`s and Fairlady Z`s (RB26DETT, RB25DE(T) and RB20DE(T)).The belt surface is composed of a combination of Nylon and Kevlar. In addition, the cable core has been improved with high strength glass and the teeth/rubber has been improved with high saturation H-NBR. It is said that with these improvements the belt is 3~4 times less prone to cutting, 2~3 times stronger in resistance to heat, 3~4 times less prone to cracking and 2~3 times resistant to wearing. Current price from RHD is AUD$162 + shipping...I'll be happy to let it go for $150 shipped Located in Rosebery, Sydney. Contact: Matt 0400 023 241 Perfect for anyone about to do a service or want a cool Nismo part. Cheers

New Z32 and plug $250 posted New Bosch 040 $150 posted New Gates racing timing belt and NSK idler and tensioner bearings $150 posted (RB25DET) New Nissan Rb25 Thermostat $25 posted New Gates Racing 4PK965R, 4PK925R and 4PK835R Ancillary Belts $25 posted New Tuneagent SS highmount turbo manifold $50 pickup Splitfire Coilpacks SF-DIS-005 Used some were sparking although should be a few good spares $50? SS Dump pipe 3" RB25DET Flange unsure what it was off $25 Plus postage Alloy Airbox/Filter heatshield unsure what it fits maybe R33 GTS-T? $25 Plus postage Stock Bits R33 GTS-T S2 Offers? or going to scrap RB25det Stock Turbo blown seals washer bottle frontpipe + Gutted cat Intake Plenum Crossover pipe with BOV Intake snorkel Throttlebody Located Canberra PM/SMS/call Cameron O418 687 94O