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Hi All, I am having some issues with the steering on my car. It only started all of a sudden and before anyone jumps to the conclusion LOL, No i havent hit any gutters, gone kerb surfing or putting the wagon sideways, or had any accidents. When i first bought the car it drove dead straight about a month ago the car started pulling left. It was pretty bad to start with but now is really bad. I went and had the wheels aligned and the only adjustable thing is the Toe in/Toe out settings and they are perfect now (they were off by quite a bit). Oddly enough this made no bloody difference to the way the car drives. I have checked the heights of all 4 coilovers and they are perfectly level. I also measured from centre of wheel cap to wheel arch lip and all is fine. They are Mines/Ohlins coilovers and are set by notches in the strut and can only be adjusted by ripping them out of the car and putting them back in. The Camber is off by 0.5deg. Left side is -2.0deg and RHS is -1.5deg which would actually push the car to the right. So ive ruled out Camber and Toe. So im left with Caster which is quite off. LHS is -ve and RHS is +ve. There is no uneven tyre wear and all i can think of is that the Caster is off but since the 260rs doesnt have adjustable Casters and they are really effing strong pieces of metal how can it suddenly be off without any of the earlier mentioned fun and games? I have inspected the Caster bushes and the ball joints and had my wheel alignment guy look at it and he said that there are no damaged or cracked bushes in my setup. So my question is this, what could be the cause? and how do i fix it?

Hey guys, ive got a question I couldn't specifically find the answer to. Is toe affected when adjusting rear camber on an R33 GTST, using adjustable rear camber arms (upper arms), like these? >> If it is affected, how much would it change vs camber? Does that makes sense? ie. I adjusted the rear camber myself, adding about 1 degree positive. From my measurements & calculations, around -1.8 deg >> to -0.8 deg. (possibly off, but moved + towards zero some amount) 18 inch wheels, so lip to lip, rim height measures 495mm. Cheers

Just starting to do a few track days. My track has 3 long straights followed by hairpins so i dont' wanna be diff locking all time. With the heel and toe technique - Ive got a r33 gts-t with evo brembo front and rear. The brakes are so good, it only takes a light touch at the top to get it to stop. My accelerator pedal is much lower down than the brake so im having big problems with heel and toe to downchange gears (im not even getting it close) I was going to put a layer or two on the accelerator pedal to try and the get the same sort of height, but even with this the brakes are heaps sensitive. Any suggestions ? thanks

Hi all, just clearing out parts scattered in my garage. 1. R33-R34 (2WD & 4WD/S14/S15/C34C35 Silvia/Skyline/Laurel & Stagea (2WD & 4WD) Garage Miniz Camber Arms - less then 50km usage on them, not your typical chinese crap $140 2.S14/S15/R32/R33/R34/C33/C34/C35/Z32/A31/Y32/Y35 Silvia/Skyline/Ceffie/Laurel/Cima/Gloria/Stagea Garage Miniz Toe Arms (non hicas only) - less then 50km usage on them not your typical chinese crap $140 Paid $220 each for these awhile back. http://www.garageminiz.com/parts.html 3. R34 GTR OEM Black Alloy fenders with OEM indicators - Paint is in excellent condition, stored in bubble wrap, never got around to fitting the, came off Chuey's sexy Z tune styled R34 GTR $450 4. R34 GTR Carbon Wing blade, needs custom alloy end plates in 2mm thickness to fit, alternatively you can shave the blade down 2mm on each side and use the OEM end plates, or run it without the end plates with a 2mm gap on each end but there will be no adjusitibility, brand new and no damage, in excellent condition purchased from DOR134's group buy and no longer needed $90 FIRM 5. Defi style 60mm black face gauges - Boost/Oil Temp/Oil Pressure; only boost gauge has been used for a week then removed, others are brand new and all gauges still have protective plastic on front of gauge. some scratches on casing, exact functions real defi's for a fraction of the price $130 for all 3, otherwise $50 ea comes with a free sandwhich plate for oil sensor fittings! Suit RB's. 5a. MearCat.com.au dual gauge pod suit 52mm gauges, made from strong fibreglass$50 FIRM RRP $99 + delivery & $5 per hole drilling http://mearcat.com.au/ 6. HKS/Earls oil cooler suit R34 GTT/R33 GTST w/ Thermostat - non relocation type HKS thermostat/block fitting, Earls customer braided lines and core fins are in good condition, no damage to core or lines/fittings, $250 7. Zeal Function Front coilovers suit R32/R33/R34 $70 springs alone cost more than this, they are well used, eye mount bushing is in good nick still, however shocks are near dead and will suit as a temp solution or to keep a car rolling 8. R33 GTST 5x1 rear half shafts > diff to Hub looks like these but with a bit more surface rust $50 9. R32 GTR non brembo brake rotors, still some meat left and lots of surface rust due to being outside $20 10. Blitz DD Venturi BOV, comes with universal flange with hose fitting; held 18PSI fine, no front piece attachment $50 11. R33 GTS/GTST/GTR Carbon A pillar covers - stick on by 3m or sikaflex - your choice, has a minor chip in one, $40 FIRM 12. R34 GT/GTT/GTR carbon windshield/wind deflectors/rain deflectors - fit by 3m double sided tape and sikaflex for extra strength. has a small hairline crack in it, purchased from DOR134's group buy but no longer needed $50 FIRM fitment pictures here: http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__6292930 13. AVS Model 7 18x8.5 +38 (if i recall) pair of rims with thrashed tyres, sprayed black but no damage to rims and in good condition; $150 looks like these; Items are located in Sydney near Gladesville or Orange Grove, prices are ONO unless FIRM is stated and excludes postage! Interstate buyers to pay for all postage costs. this is all i can find atm, i will add more in the coming days as i uncover some stuff! Thanks for looking,