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Found 63 results

  1. [SUCC] + HSCCV SandownStorm @ Sandown Raceway Aug 27th https://www.facebook.com/events/1711008918940040/? Next track day is up: SandownStorm @ Sandown Raceway. SUCC Motorsport is teaming up with HSCCV to deliver one of the best quality circuit days this year! Sandown Raceway full track featuring timed and untimed sessions to cater to both those who wish to push their cars to the limits and compete for the best times possible, as well as a come and try session for those who want an introduction to circuit driving! $220 - Timed session including Dorian Hire $205 - Come and try session - No timing (Max 20 Entries) There will be trophies for best in each class. This is to be treated as a competitive event for those who are not come and try entrants! Supp regs TBA Entries will open soon, more info coming this week
  2. Loading up a track car i have a 33gtst i use as my track car (pic below) The car trailer i have makes it hard to load up as the ramps are to short and the front lip of my car hits when loading... Its not as easy to put longer ramps on due to the design of the car trailer and how they are stored. I dont want to make the car higher etc and im sick of putting my shit bumper on to load up any ideas....? would finding a pair of 20s and chucking on some cheap tyres with a huge tyre profile lift it enough to get it on? finding 20s for a skyline could be tough that fit over evo brembos also Any other ideas!?
  3. Round 4 - Phillip Island July 1st (95dB) - By AROCA *Limited entries* Last time at PI for 2017 and we are lucky enough that AROCA are holding a 95dB day! (other days are only 75dB) This event will sell out quickly so get your entry in ASAP. When: Saturday July 1st 2017 Where: Phillip Island Grand Prix Circuit Back Beach Rd, Phillip Island VIC 3922 https://goo.gl/maps/43e4m1BtEWu Entry cost $280 until 25th of June and $320 after that. Full event details and entry form which need to be filled out and sent back to Neil Choi. His details can be found on the entry form. AROCA PHILLIP ISLAND SPRINT Supp Regs AROCA PI ENTRY FORM ...
  4. R33 Track car Handling upgrades hey all im looking to get a set of coilovers and what not for my track car. grip car What has been used and worked well? Are white line sway bars worth the upgrade to? tie rod ends worth it etc etc? Thanks
  5. 86 BRZ Front splitter with Rods For Sale : Custom BRZ 86 full front splitter with rods Condition : New never used no holes drilled yet Description : Custom made from aluminium layered polyethylene, gloss black or matte finish Location : Sydney Price 170 + shipping PM
  6. Wheels: 18in Volk CE28 multi studs 5x114.3/5x100 Seeing if there is interest in these wheels. They are perfect for track or street use, and fit most cars, attached are pictures of the state of wheels, minor curb rash as can be seen in photos, price negotiable. They are wrapped in Bridgestone Potenza. Only selling them as they look too small on the v35 in my opinion, otherwise perfect wheels. I will likely be selling sometime in June unknown width, offset and tire wear until the car arrives in Aus, will update interested parties with information. PM me if interested. Looking for around $2800 negotiable, but will swap for stock 350z or v35 18/19s plus cash my way. (or if you have it, a set of CR KAIs in 19inch) Can ship at buyers expense. TEXT AT 0426187495 Email: PM Me
  7. Bought my '96 GTS-T around April 2013 with the intention of separating my track and daily cars. It was near standard when I bought it so it didn't take too much work to get it up to a RWC condition. It did come with underbody neons and a crap stereo which was quickly ripped out, and a cat back exhaust and no-name pod filter. This was taken on the day I got the RWC: First time out on track was at very wet Haunted Hills hill climb in May 2013. Being completely stock, the car rolled around a lot. I was also thrown around from side to side in the stock seat which was a real pain. Final lap time was 70.64s on a wet track. Took it to the RTR dyno and it came out at 136.2rwkw Took it to Winton in June 2013 and achieved a pretty mediocre 1.48.70. Car was still stock at this stage and run on street tyres. More Haunted Hills in its stock form in October 2013 At this stage, I was just trying to learn how the car drove. Unfortunately I started to get some massive exhaust manifold leaks, boost leaks, the 17 year old radiator cracked, and stock turbo was dying. Decided that since a fair amount of its guts would be out, I'd do some basic modifications to the engine. I wanted this car to be as reliable as possible as I don't have a tow car and would have to drive it to and from all the tracks. I've also gone in with a "do it once, do it right" mentality as I've had too many issues in the past with going half assed and having things break. Chucked in a big Mishimoto radiator, 3" dump pipe, high flow cat, fuel pump, 480cc injectors, Blitz return flow intercooler, Power FC, and a small Kinugawa turbo. Got a healthy 244.9rwkw at 17psi Chucked in a proper seat just before my next track day Track day at Winton in November 2013 and ran it at 11psi (~200rwkw). Still standard suspension (check out the body roll below), street tyres, and brakes. Found that when hot, car was misfiring like crazy and realised that my coil packs had given way. Day ended with a 1:45.03 Replaced the coil packs with Yellow Jackets which unfortunately continued misfiring (but much less than the broken ones), so I ended up getting a set of OEMs which has been great ever since. Mid 2014 I chucked in a set of BC Racing ER series coilovers in 12/10 kg f/r. Found a cheap second hand Kaaz 1.5 way diff which went in as the stock viscous was as good as an open diff. Also put in a dog bone to fit GTR rotors. Did a bunch more events like DECA, HH, Winton, and PI to build up more track time in the car. Times were slowly improving with experience. Had a weld in half cage installed for the harness bar and some ROPS PI day with a 2:02 on wet track with street tyres: In 2015 I went to E85 with a small bump in power to 257rwkw and more torque still at 17psi. Again, reliability was key here and I think E85 is best for boosted engines living their lives at the top of their rev range. Chucked on a circa 2010 set of 235/45/17 RE55S semis in SR2 compound for my first foray into semis. Times started to come down to 1:37.89 before my brakes blew up. Had a theoretical in the 1:36 range, but that's for next time. Rotor failed coming into turn 1 on my first hot lap. Lucky nobody was in front of me so I was able to just roll off the track and drive back to the pits. PB lap: http://youtube.com/watch?v=nPKGlBA21lk (not sure how to embed) Will need to improve air flow around brakes for the next track day. My aim is to drop into the 1:34 region with no aero at Winton in its current setup and newer semis. Thanks for reading. That's nearly 3 years in one post!
  8. selling 17inch rims pair only multistud vic 17 inch rims not sure what brand.Sprayed white white a can long time ago.Excellent tyres worth $60+ each alone.5x114.3 pcd and 4x114.3 .multi stud.17x7+47 offset.Pair only price is $200 firm pickup tarneit 3029 can deliver around tarneit for a small fee . please sms me 0430078630
  9. *** New Genuine Japanese Endless Brake Pads for Evo, GTR, Chaser, V35, Skyline, 350 & WRX *** Selling premium genuine unopened Japanese Endless brake pads for Evo, GTR, Chaser, V35, Skyline, 350Z & WRX. Get the pads you won't look back and breath-taking longevity. There's a reason they are called Endless! Prices from $599, which includes both front and rear for premium Jap pads! We are a new business in SA called Ninja Imports and promoting Endless pads at near cost prices! Available for various setups such as decent street upgrade over OEM with low dust (SS-M) , street and track purpose (MXRS) or a weekend track warrior that still drives home safelty even when cold (CC-Rg). Details below: SS-M | 0 -530 degrees C http://www.endless-sport.global/au/products/pad_1a/3 MXRS | 50-700 degrees C http://www.endlessusa.com/#!__brake-pads/mxrs CC-Rg | 50 - 800 degrees C http://www.endless-sport.global/au/products/pad_1a/117 NOTE: The less the graph is coloured in yellow, the more aggressive the pad. Choose which pad is most suitable! Check reviews on these and you will know they are the real deal. FREE postage Australia wide. Any questions, you can reply, PM or email us on [email protected] and we will get back to you as soon as possible. Find us on Facebook! https://www.facebook.com/ninjaimportssa/ Stock and prices are below (NOTE the pads sets RRP between $670 and $799 depending on caliper type and compound): EP400 SSM V35 350Z V35 Brembo Front $560.00 EP408 SSM V35 350Z V35 Brembo rear EP400 MXRS V35 350Z V35 Brembo Front $600.00 EP408 MXRS V35 350Z V35 Brembo rear EP400 CCRG V35 350Z V35 Brembo Front $660.00 EP408 CCRG V35 350Z V35 Brembo rear EP357 SSM V-X, Evo V-X, STi Brembo front $560.00 EP291 SSM V-IX, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP357 MXRS V-X, Evo V-X, STi Brembo front $600.00 EP291 MXRS V-IX, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP357 CCRG V-X, Evo V-X, STi Brembo front $660.00 EP291 CCRG V-IX, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP290 SSM R33/R34, Nissan R33/R34, 350Z Brembo front $540.00 EP291 SSM R33/R34 or EVO, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP290 MXRS R33/R34, Nissan R33/R34, 350Z Brembofront $560.00 EP291 MXRS R33/R34 or EVO, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP290 CCRG R33/R34, Nissan R33/R34 Brembo, 350Z front $600.00 EP291 CCRG R33/R34 or EVO, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP351 SSM WRX Subaru WRX Front DB1170 $560.00 EP231 SSM WRX Subaru WRX rear DB1220 EP351 MXRS WRX, Subaru WRX, Nissan R32,S14 Front $600.00 EP231 MXRS WRX Subaru WRX rear DB1220 EP351 CCRG WRX, Subaru WRX, Nissan R32,S14 Front $660.00 EP231 CCRG WRX Subaru WRX rear DB1220 EP292 SSM JZX100 Chaser JZX100 Front $560.00 EP352 SSM JZX100 Chaser JZX100 Rear
  10. 2017 Porsche 911 GT3 & GT3 RS Unless you’ve been living under a rock for the last couple of years, you’ve probably heard about the new Porsche 911 GT3 and its RS hardcore variant. How could you not have? Every magazine has been praising it and every schoolboy’s bought an RS poster just to hang it up on his bedroom wall. It’s been called the sportscar of the decade, the bargain of the century and even a supercar. Well, the simple fact of the matter is that it probably IS the greatest sportscar ever made, and we’ll tell you exactly why. To further differentiate the “standard” GT3 from the insane GT3 RS variant, we’ve decided to compare the two and highlight the differences between them. Design The normal GT3 looks like, well, a GT3 racecar for the road. It’s wider, lower and more aggressive than your run-of-the-mill 991 911. Almost everyone bar those partially blind can tell the difference between it and the regular car. That’s mostly down to one thing: that huge rear wing. You can’t ignore it can you? It’s just there, sitting tall and proud. For 2017 Porsche has redesigned the bumper lights and the air intakes, bringing it more in-line with the new Carrera. The air intake layout is especially interesting, since it seems to be remarkably similar to the one found on the Cayman GT4. Headlights and taillights get a slight revision, as does the decklid and the bumper at the back. Then, there’s the GT3 RS, and you really can’t miss this one even if you are blind. For starters, the front bumper has been completely redesigned sporting larger air intakes big enough to engulf a small child altogether, thinner LED stripes and a huge splitter. The front fenders get louvers, and that’s a first on any production Porsche. They’re not just aesthetic however. They provide actual downforce at the front axle, pushing down on the tires, providing more turn-in and stability. The rear fenders get intakes similar to those found on the 911 Turbo variants and revised side skirts with an all-new wheel design round off the look. Well, that and the ridiculous rear wing. If you thought the GT3 had a large wing, wait till you see the RS’ fixed one. The weird thing is that it doesn’t look out of place, especially since you have the splitters and the louvers. It really does give off the impression that it’s a well thought out package, mostly because it is. Interior We’ll just touch base on the interior and move on, since it’s the usual Porsche stuff you expect to find. The GT3 RS bases its cabin on its younger GT3 sibling, boasting some RS badging, Alcantara all around and a sportier layout. The bucket seats were ripped straight out of the 918 Spyder and offer more support as well. A Club Sport Package is standard on the RS, offering a bolt-in roll cage, battery master switch preparation and a six-point safety harness for the driver along with a fire extinguisher should things go wrong, which hopefully they won’t. If you’re after even more race-ready equipment, there’s always the Sport Chrono Package with integrated timers and Porsche’s very own Track Precision app. It measures lap times automatically via GPS, logging data on a smartphone. A useful feature to compare your laptimes and measure up against your mates at the end of the day. Engine This is the 911’s crowning jewel. The standard GT3 houses a 3.8 liter flat-six Boxer engine at the back, producing 354 glorious naturally-aspirated Kilowatts and 439Nm of torque. By contrast, the GT3 RS uses a bigger 4.0 liter flat-six unit with 373 Kilowatts (18 more than the GT3) and 459Nm of torque. The two units might not seem that different on paper, but the way they go on about delivering their power is anything but. For instance, the GT3 RS does indeed feel more powerful, and you can feel the extra kilowatt difference, but they get delivered slightly lower down in the rev range. When we say slightly we mean that it “only” revs to 8,250 rpm, whereas the GT3’s unit, because of its smaller displacement and titanium connecting rods with forged pistons, goes all the way to 9,000 rpm. Just imagine that. A six-cylinder horizontally-opposed engine screaming at bike-rivaling revolutions per minute. If you think it sounds glorious, you’d be right. Both engines use Porsche’s brilliant 7-speed PDK transmission, but the 2017 GT3 might see the addition of a third pedal and a manual shifter. Porsche isn’t revealing anything just yet, but it’s almost certainly going to happen. Finally, after years of complaining about the lack of manual, we finally might get our wish. Driving dynamics If you’re purely after a track car, go for the GT3 RS, no question about it. It’s got more aero, 20mm wider tracks at the front and rear, a revised suspension and more power. It is, for all intents and purposes, the faster car. Period. However, don’t mistake it for being the better car. On the road, the GT3 is just as fast as the RS, and arguably even more fun. The lack of the RS’ trick aero means it’s much more willing to dance and it’s just amazing getting to rev it out to 9,000 rpm. It looks slightly more mannered and if you choose to leave the roll cage out, it’s much more livable with on a day to day basis. Conclusion It’s a matter of picking your poison really. Do you want something which will annihilate every other car on the track, or the best sportscar ever made capable of demolishing any B-road? Porsche has you covered on both fronts, and it’s a win-win situation either way you go.
  11. Motorsport Tyres Yo, Where do you track junkies get your tyres from? Surely there must be better places than Gordon Leven and Gary's motorsport in NSW to source my future tyre. I want to tee up my next set of tyres. DZ03G, R888R or Z221. It seems so hard to find anything though.
  12. Track day maintenance schedule Hello all! This has always been an interesting topic for me, but not one I can find a lot of info on. It would be great to get an idea of what kind of maintenance you guys do you on your cars each track day/race event. I'm not sure if what I am doing is enough, or overkill, or if i'm missing something critical which is important. I do mostly tarmac rally (up to 150km per day competitive) and some hill climbs/drifting/fun track days. To try and keep consistency across info i'll use sub headings: Frequency: Work: Frequency: Small service every event (events are either 1 or 2 days long) more major checks every 3-6 months or few events if I'm driving regularly Work: Small service: Engine oil and filter, wheels off the car and quick check for leaks/loose bolts/rubber boots, top up fluids if required Major service: Gearbox oil, brake/clutch fluid, thorough check of all bolts/inspection of parts for wear, pull out brake pads to check rotors/calipers etc Yearly (if not already done within 12 months): Air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, power steering fluid, coolant and diff oil (standard lsd) Should I be doing things more or less often? What is your maintenance schedule like? Cheers!
  13. R32 Skyline Track/Race Car R32 GTST Track Car for Sale. RB20Det purpose track build 380rwhp @ 23psi on E85. Engine/Car has 87XXX kms on it. Car owes well in excess of $40k. Looking for $24000 or best offer. Engine Engine Top End just refurbished/rebuilt, new valves, springs, Tomei cams, camshafts, steel head gasket and ARP Head studs. Stock bottom end and internals. Prior to rebuild I had an engine oil sample tested (no elevated wear metals or contaminants detected). Hypergear ATR43SS Turbo, Denso pencil coils, 1000cc injectors, high flow E85 fuel pump, fuel labs pressure regulator, High Flow CAT & BPP Fuel Rail. PWR Intercooler Painted Black. Exposed POD filter where headlight should be. Also provision to put the headlight back in and drop the pod into the inner guard pulling cool air through fog light area. Cooling. KOYA Radiator with twin push/pull thermo fans. Driveline. Standard RB20det gearbox with Competition Clutch Heavy Duty race clutch (4000 km old). Competition Clutch light weight flywheel (4000km old). Transmission fluid is Redline Shockproof. Suspension, Wheels & Braking. Fully adjustable coil overs, damping and ride height adjustable. Fully adjustable camber and castor arms. BF Racing Brake Fluid (High Temp, never had the pedal go to the floor). Front has Slotted and Cross Drilled Rotors with EBC Yellow Stuff Pads. 250 kms old. Rear has Slotted Rotors with Forza racing pads. 100 kms old. Wheels are Rota P45R. Not dent or buckling in the rim. No gutter rash, just paint chips on the outer lip on the rims. Fronts are 10” wide, rears are 12” wide. Currently have Kumho Ecsta Hard Racing Slicks with about 50% life remaining on the rears and 70% on the fronts. Engine Management. Link G4 ECU, with unlocked tune. There is a flex fuel sensor so you can tune on P98 without problems. Currently only has an E85 tune on it. There is provision for 3 standalone tunes. Interior. Interior carpet and sets have been stripped. Full Roll Cage, after market momo steering wheel, Genuine Sparco Seat (from Italy) and Genuine Takata Drift Harness. Drift handbrake. Chassis & Body. Car has never been in an accident on the race track. Car has been stiffened with four braces. Body is as expected for a 25 yr. old car (no dents). Rear qtr. of car has a wide body kit on it from Japan. General Info. Car has had a full service which included ALL filters and ALL Fluids 7 Months ago. Car has done one track day since then to verify the new tune with updated head, Car has been tuned by reputable skyline tuner in Brisbane. Car has absolutely no issues, it will do full track days without any problems, no overheating, the car is very reliable.
  14. Queensland Raceway Open Sprints 2nd Oct anyone? Anyone heading to QR Sprints this Sunday?? Will be my first time there and first track day since moving back to Gold Coast. Keen to meet some track orientated people for motivation!
  15. First post and new to the forum game. I'm new to skylines and turbo cars and all this stuff so getting a fair bit of help and guideance from a mate. My plan is to build a race car and do some track work and really wanna have a go at Tarmac rally here in WA. So anyways went out and bought my self an rb26 to start with and have since done a bottom end rebuild and got my mates old man to cut the diff off the sump and got a hold of a tomei baffle and organizing an oil return at the moment. Also bought lots of other cool shit here and there for the motor. I got a garret t04z all ready to go for it as well. So now I've gone out and bought an r33 4 door and starting stripping the engine bay and trying my hand at a bit of stitch welding to strengthen that bad boy up and getting ready to lay some paint hopefully next week at some stage. Got a couple of other bits with the car like tein coilovers and an orc twin plate clutch. Got a few pictures here and there but not sure how much stuff people are gonna wanna see till it all starts to come together. I'll search through and maybe take some current progress snaps and post them up to show whats happening with it.
  16. Hey guys, Finally got my full license so decided to purchase a turbo vehicle, always had a soft spot for 33's, may not be the crowd favourite or a boat at times but with some effort put in they can look Blake Lively or Sally Fitzgibbons. Just some previous car history: Owned my first love, an s13, best s-chassis imo with its lines and simplicity. N/A SR, pushed around 95-100kw with everything done do it so it was a ball to drive through the hills of adelaide and on the track, though inexperience + lack of power I did struggle to connect turns. Now to move on to the 33: Going to build this car with the mind set that I want to be able to run it on the track and still drive it to and from the track and also daily drives. When i bought it, mechanically is was real clean and tidy, the previous owner mainly took it to the shop to get parts installed, so at least I have the piece of mind everything is done right. The body though is something else, bit rough is few areas, but with some TLC and polishing it should come up good. Currently runs 196kw @ 14psi, which is more than enough power for the time being as im still learning how to drift, so I will be focusing more on the handling side of things. (^how it currently sits, after a light clean up) Firstly before i rego it, I'm just going to give it a clean up; Remove some stickers Clean up the headlights Polish and Wax Nardi Steering wheels with boss kit. Blast pipes Shifter cover/shroud thingy? ( the leather cover that goes over the shifter) CST Hyper Zeros 18x9.5 +23 Once registered I will start executing the build! first up I will put in a different set of coilovers ( thinking about BC racing coilovers, but have also heard good things about slideworks coilovers) upgrade the camber arms, toe arms, sway bars & steering lock. In the mean time i will be adding small things interior and exterior wise such as roof spoiler, boot lip, possibly different front bar(will try find a pic of what im after), rear pods, LED tail lights, weather guards and others misc items. Wont try to do anything else Engine and suspension wise after that, due to the fact I Haven't done a track day in it yet so unsure on what needs upgrading or what can stay the same. Hope you stay tuned!
  17. These are practically brand new as they were only fitted to a project car to roll it around. DGR s14/200sx street/track fully adjustable coilovers.Might also fit s15's too. Spring rates are 12/10 Located at Sunnybank Brisbane but I can drop them off locally or send with courier. Asking $800
  18. Sold my Stagea so these wheels are up for grabs. Bought the rims brand new,they've done less than 1000 K's on the wagon. One rim has a small nick of rash on outer polished alloy lip.None are otherwise damaged at all. Two Achilles ATR sport tyres are about 80% tread,two Federal 595's are about 70% Pickup's at Sunnybank South Brisbane or I can drop them off locally. Asking $800.Message me with a decent offer if you need them.
  19. Can everyone with 350-370 models post their best lap times from Wakefield Park Raceway so that I can compare please.. Also input on what Semi-Slick road legal tyres & rims I should get if you have experience in this department Times with street tyres & what tyre sizes you were running? -OR- if, Times with semi-slick tyres & what tyre sizes you were running? And if any modifications were done from stock to achieve your time? Ie. My time... 2002 PV35 350GT. Street Tyres: 1:22:158 (215/55-R17 Bridgestone Potenza) Mod: Hi-Flow Exhaust System.
  20. Hey guys. I'm currently in the process of building my track s14 for time attack/sprint days and I need to decide on a clutch budget under $700 delivered. I was trying to decied between two clutches. I think the Sports Ceramic Clutch Kit suits my applications better however don't know anyone who has one. How well do they hold under power? My car will have under 300kw when finished. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EXEDY-S-METAL-Clutch-Set-disc-cover-NISSAN-SILVIA-S14-SR20DET-NK01TB-/281366068123?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4182b97b9b The other option is the Exedy Heavy Duty Button Clutch Kit NSK-6531HDB. I hear it can hold up under a lot of abuse. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Exedy-Heavy-Duty-Button-Clutch-Kit-Nissan-200SX-Silvia-S14-SR20DET-NSK-6531HDB-/121141179961?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3493b639
  21. 1989 Nissan skyline R32 GTR Tarmac Rally Car For Sale Genuine black R32 GTR , imported and complied around 2006 as a 4.5 level car. Never any accident damage or rust. Built into a Tarmac Rally car in 2010 at enormous cost. Very successful history including 2 x Targa Tasmania’s, 2 x Targa High Country’s and Targa Wrest Point. Car is on full QLD rego, with all mod plates for cage, seats, brakes etc. We also have a 1984 Nissan DR30 Tarmac Rally Car, and can’t decide which one to sell, so we are putting them both up for sale and see which one goes first… DR30 can be viewed (link to be added) Back to the R32 GTR. List of mods include (car is now de-stickered): Genuine fresh N1 Crate engine, recently rebuilt by SJP Engines (2 events old) with forged pistons, ARP studs, Ross balancer etc. all quality parts. Shows 300+ RWKW on BP98 tune with legal Targa specs, tuned for strong midrange, full details to genuinely interested parties. N1 turbos and custom stainless/titanium exhaust (with removable cat/decat section) Direct Clutches button clutch setup (comes with brand new spare) PWR Radiator, power steering cooler and oil coolers R33 GTR intercooler Nismo mounts Bigger 650cc injectors , with lift pump to sealed boot mounted surge tank and 044 supply pump on custom wiring Freshly rebuilt R33 GTR gearbox, including transfer case rebuild Nismo Pro TT rear LSD and Quaife geared front LSD with 4.375:1 Diff gears ‘Full Race” Pro or Ruzic diff controllers (your choice, both currently in car) All driveshafts, tailshafts etc serviced 2 event ago MCA gold/Proflex remote canister shocks with fast and slow bump and rebound adjustment Adjustable platform King springs, currently 550lb front and 450lb rear Whiteline sway bars F&R Nismo front handling kit including control arms & upper arms Cusco rear adjustable camber arms Apexi computer and remote hand controller and HKS boost controller Brakes: Option 1: Evo X option 350mm x 32mm front vented discs and Brembo 4 spot calipers and rear 300mm vented discs and 2 spot calipers, with DS2500 pads Option 2: Full AP Racing endurance brake package including 355mm x 36mm AP front rotors and Harrop floating hats, and 320mm x 32 mm AP rear rotors and Harrop floating hats. AP Racing endurance 6 spot front calipers (25mm brake pads) and AP Racing endurance 4 spot rear calipers (16mm pads) with PMU pads including spare front rotors, hats and brake pad set. This is the ultimate GTR brake package (cost $14k+)! Both options come with braided lines and hydraulic handbrake Running standard booster and ABS (balance bar setup available separately if desired). Body: Rust free and accident free original metallic black. N1 rear lip and front vents. There are quite a few stonechips (as can be expected from a tarmac race car) and some paint removal spots (from decal removal) but overall the body is in very good condition and presents very well. Full CAMS and AMSAG TIG welded, log booked cage from Pro Race Fabrications. Sparco Race seats and 6 point harnesses, Momo steering wheel, fire extinguishers etc. Interior is very neat, still has most trim and front carpet (all standard trim available with car). Gizmo shift light Flush carbon lockable bonnet pins Genesis dry cell battery in boot with kill switch and remote pull R33 GTR wheels and A050 Advan race tyres Full QLD rego till 02/15 That’s about all I can think of for now, although I am sure there is more. This is a fun and easy car to drive quickly, and would suit the novice through to the serious competitor. There is plenty of development left, but it is an easy top 10 car as is. Would suit Tarmac Rally, Time Attack or weekend Top Gear series car that you can drive to and from the track. Always serviced, pre-race prepped and tuned by GT Auto Garage. Would cost well over $100k+ to replicate! Extensive spares available with car. Price with option 1 brake package - $27,500 Price with option 2 brake package - $32,500 Serious enquiries only please. Located Brisbane Northside Initial contact by email: [email protected] or Phone 0433 73 44 55 Cheers Paul
  22. hey guys i want to get all of your opinion's on brakes which one's do you use and how will u rate them what good brakes to you suggest for a r33 gtst street brakes but also there are days that i give it to my car iv'e heard one of the best brakes out there are the QFM A1RM street/ track brakes
  23. 1995 Nissan Skyline R33 Series 1 RB25det FOR SALE Manual 212*** K's Rego paid 25/01/15 Selling vehicle that has just been traded in, for quick sale, some bumps bruises around the vehicle as you can see in the photo's Perfect for a track car, or can be put on the road, Car still has valid rego. $2250 Sold as is where is with no RWC Options: Sunroof Short Shifter Front mount cooler Front strut brace Contact me on 0432 413 556
  24. 1995 Nissan Skyline R33 Series 1 RB25det FOR SALE Manual 212*** K's Rego paid 25/01/15 Selling vehicle that has just been traded in, for quick sale, some bumps bruises around the vehicle as you can see in the photo's Perfect for a track car, or can be put on the road, Car still has valid rego. $2900 Sold as is where is with no RWC Options: Sunroof Short Shifter Front mount cooler Front strut brace Contact me on 0432 413 556