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Found 34 results

  1. Hey guys so I need a bit of help. i read a thread on here about a shop called MV Autos over there in Australia that does a pretty awesome modification to the automatic trans in the r32's. Seemingly, it requires the car to be shifted manually and there is a shifter kit to go along with this? any info would be great!! Please and thank you! i reached out to MV auto but no response. Are they the only shop that does this? I have a specific reason for wanting this vs a manual gearbox she arrives stateside this Friday and I'm dying to get going right away with the modifications.
  2. I'm gathering parts for a manual conversion on my R34 25GT. I know the RB25DET box is physically a lot fatter and stronger but in some side by side pics on the web it actually looks a little bit shorter than the RB20/25DE box. There's also a pic out there of the 25DET box with a tape measure against it showing about 32 inches and the 20/25DE box I got already is more like 33 inches. Does that sound right that the weaker box is actually a bit longer? This info is to help me buy the right tail shaft. It would be equally useful to know the actual length of the propshaft front piece from an R33 GTS or R34 GT. Anyone got that info?
  3. When in neutral, i push clutch right in, and give it some revs. 3500-5000rpm it grinds. Even when its in a gear and clutch right in, rev and it grinds. And when driving, changing gears at high revs grinds. If i let revs drop to 2000-3000rpm its no worries. 1993 nissan skyline r33 GTsT. Manual, single turbo. RB25DET.
  4. Need some help with my speed sensor on the RB20DET. I've pretty much figured out where it's located, on top of the transmission, hard to reach without dropping the exhaust. The question is WHERE does it plug into on the harness? I know that the revolution sensor aka speed sensor on the RB20DET in the R32's is supposed to be mechanically driven, though...I've got a shielded cable with a white and red wire coming off of them. Whoever did the motor swap did some wacky wiring and I have no idea where anything goes now. I'm assuming that my speed sensor is electronic then? It's the RE4R01A trans (A/T) so I need anyone with an A/T to give me a hand right now with this. I spent the past several weeks tracking down diagrams for the TCM which are non-existent, diagrams to the transmission plugs (again non-existent) and searched this site up and down and kept getting zero results. The last question would be, IF I maintain the electronic speed sensor on the transmission, how would I wire it up? What plug did anyone use on their RB25 (those are electronic I believe). Obviously any and all help is greatly appreciated.
  5. Like the title says, ISO wiring diagram for the A/T R32 4 speed. I can't seem to find one anywhere. Since I can't find the harness, I'm going to see if I can just snip some connectors off of my old chassis harness and re-pin them for the various wires. If anyone's got a lead on the diagram that'd be amazing. Also, can someone throw up a picture of their fuse box? There's 4 plugs on the side for the autos, I want to see what plugs go where. I'm assuming 3 plugs are for the transmission inputs since there's 3 sets of wires, the other plug I'm assuming is either alternator or something else? Thanks!
  6. So like i have an rb25det in a nissan laurel,and it has a transmission hooked up to it.since i bought the car it had an issue whereby when accelerating,the car seemed to be slow and sluggish,like if it was lacking air,and after a while it drived like normal,also it had an idle problem (only when in drive not park)the car would give a bad idle as if it had bigger cams,(not that it had any).This idle problem wasnt constant though,it happened randomly.But when the accelerator was floored it ran like a beast.however i recently had a problem when i put the car into reverse.immediately it would shut off.no bogging nothing just cuts off as if i turned the key off.i was wondering if yall could shoot some ideas my way.Thanks in advance
  7. V35 VQ25DD manual trans swap So I'm new to here, and I hope people still monitor this forum. I am posting for a buddy. He just partially swapped the 25DD to manual 6 speed (from the 350z). After the swap, he is having crazy ABS problems. He will be driving, then all the sudden the ABS will kick in out of the blue and the breaks pulsate as if you are depressing the brakes even though your not. He took he ABS fuse and removed the two slated in the engine bay as for the abs. Problem still exists. This happens at random times and if you stop and shut off the car, it will reset. Btw, this was the same issue we saw on a VQ35 on a manual way, but the ECU in the 35 was less straight forward, and it was assumed the problem resided in one of the couple ECUs on the VQ35. If you know someone who did a 25 manual trans conversion, or know the answer please help me
  8. Transmission help pls Ok so my Nov'04 v35 has a sick transmission. I called around and found one out of a wreckers that came out of a '04 coupe which was supposed to be the same. The mechanic tells me the wiring harnesses are completely different so they are not compatible (may be different valve bodies). Has anyone had any transmission issues and can point me in the direction of a transmission expert to resolve this ??
  9. another V35 CVT story Not sure if I should start my post by 'Hi' or 'Help' Let's try Hi... Hi every one, I have a 2003 v35 350GT8, not rolling at the minute. The transmission 'disengaged' while I was on the freeway and now just refuses to engage at all, forward or reverse. I do get a slight jerk when I try to press the accelerator, but that's about it. I'm looking at 2 options, bite the bullet and get whatever I can get for it in the current state, or do a trans swap. I guess my questions now would be: - If I decide to sell it as is, what sort of price do you think I could hope for? -If I go with the trans swap, what would be involved, how much would that cost and do you guys know anybody on the central coast NSW that could do this? Thanks guys, bebetaz
  10. Rattling in gearbox clutch disengaged/neutral Hey guys so been trying to track this issue for ages. When going over bumps or turning a corner/reversing with the gearing disengaged/clutch partially engaged the gearbox rattles heaps. Can physically feel all the gears rattling inside the gearbox and its real loud. The cars a r33 gtst with a tight shimmed diff i originally thought it was because of the diff being locked but since it happens going over bumps im not so sure...although its much much worse when reversing while turned. This issue leads me to the next problem which is a grinding between gears which i first thought to be the syncros but the issue is so much worse if you're mid drift and try to shift it grinds so much worse which i think stems from the above rattling as i pushed the clutch in to shift and the gears bounce all around the joint... Tranny mount when i bought the car was as loose and worn as an old hooker its since been made solid with polyurethane, all rear bushes replaced cept stock diff bushes, subframe collars, no difference made with those changes. Not sure what it could be. Don't think its engine mounts because its only with clutch disengaged so shouldnt matter..Thoughts lads? Thanks!
  11. Hello Hello all! I have just joined and wanted to say hello to fellow Stagea enthusiasts. I have an M35 Stagea that I bought last year and I am LOVING it! She has a few simple mods but I will slowly give her more as time goes on. So far it has brake lock mod, transmission cooler and 3" turbo back exhaust system. I enhanced the look with some Simmons wheels. I do have a few questions for those in the know.... What type of auto transmission is in them? It's a fantastic auto and when I give it a boot full, it likes to hold at a rev and hold that rev through every gear. It's almost like it pre-selects the next gear or has a stally or something? Does everyone's do the same? Also, it takes a good five minute run before it goes into 5th gear, even if I manual shift. Wondering if it may be a solenoid on it's way out or the fluid needs changing or is wrong fluid? The other question I have is, I have seen the WC34 models with R34 fronts on them and they look amazing! Can I do this to my M35 or is it a completely different deal? What basic mods would you guys recommend for me to do to enhance performance? Thanks in advance for any thoughts and it's great to be here!
  12. FS: R34 GTT & GT brake boosters, BM50 & BM44 BMC, DBA T3 310mm rotors, AN10 Hoses, R34/R33 transmission parts [MEL] Replacing my previous for sale thread with this updated one, here goes. For sale: 1. R34 GTT brake booster with BM50 master cylinder – $100 2. R34 GT brake booster with BM44 master cylinder – $100 3. DBA T3 4000 310mm rotors x2 for R34 GTT front, worn – $80 for the pair 3. Leaky Driftworks braided oil cooler hoses with crimped AN10 fittings, for spares – $30 4. R34/R33 transmission parts – $80 See below for details. All parts in Melbourne near Essendon, pick up only. PM if interested. --- 1. R34 GTT brake booster with BM50 master cylinder – $100 I was going to replace mine with this but my issue was elsewhere. Was sent to me as a working unit but I haven't tested it, you're welcome to inspect in detail The plastic fork collar is cracked on one side (see photos) but this shouldn't affect operation The master cylinder doesn't have BM50 stamped on it, however the outer diameter is the same as the BM50 on my GTT so I trust it's the same unit --- 2. R34 GT brake booster with BM44 master cylinder – $100 This was sent to me by mistake when I was after the GTT booster+master. Was sent to me as a working unit but I haven't tested it, you're welcome to inspect in detail This is in slightly cleaner condition than the GTT BM50 The BM44 BMC outer diameter is slightly smaller than the BM50 --- 3. DBA T3 310mm rotors – $80 Rotor are about 2 years and 20,000 old, with several track days on them I believe one of the rotors is slightly warped, it's fine for street use but does vibrate in hard braking (runouts are 0.10mm and 0.04mm) No visible cracks or significant heat stress marks on the surface Rotor thickness 29.1mm (new 30mm, minimum 28mm) --- 4. Leaky Driftworks braided oil cooler hoses with crimped AN10 fittings, for spares – $30 Hose lengths are 115cm and 135cm This is heavy duty braided hose about ~25mm outer diameter The AN10 hose fittings for each hose are 90 degree elbow at one end and a straight one at the other. The fittings need a good clean. Caveat emptor: These hoses leak at the straight end, so you'll need to replace those two crimped hose end fittings. Standard Speedflow etc. AN10 fittings won't do because this hose OD is larger than the Speedflow AN10 hose. --- 5. R34/R33 transmission parts – $80 RB25DET manual transmission parts: $50 - R33 Series 2 fuse box to gearbox wiring loom $40 - R33 GTS-t manual coupe tail shaft rear part $20 - R34 turbo gearbox clutch fork (pull type) RB25DET automatic transmission parts: $25 - R34 GTT auto brake pedal $40 - R34 GTT auto sedan tail shaft front part Or $80 for the lot of trans parts. --- Notes: All prices ono and all parts in Melbourne near Essendon, pick up only. Only items specifically listed above are available, there are some in the photos that are gone
  13. Filling transmission oil through gearstick? So after having to cut off the boot that goes on the bottom of the shifter (previous owner didnt use a circlip instead used a hose clamp and tightened it with hulk hands) I'm now stuck as to what to do next. I cant change the fluid through the actual transmission because the filler plug has been tightened by hercules. What do I do next to fill the transmission oil? And does anyone have the part number for the boot that goes on the bottom there?
  14. Hi All, Looking to buy the stock RB25det engine with complete ECU loom coupled with the Transmission for a project car @ $2.5k max Could you please 'pm anything you may have in relation to the above.
  15. Merging my various for sale threads into one, here goes: 1. For sale a full set of 6 Yellow Jacket coil packs to suit R34 GTT, GT, and Stageas with RB25DE/T Neo – $150 2. For sale an R34 GTT coupe steering rack with around 80,000kms on it, off a 1998 car. – $90 3. For sale used leaky Driftworks braided oil cooler hoses with crimped AN10 fittings, for spares – $50 4. For sale R34/R33 transmission parts – $100 See below for details. All parts in Melbourne near Essendon, pick up preferred. --- 1. For sale a full set of 6 Yellow Jacket coil packs to suit R34 GTT, GT, and Stageas with RB25DE/T Neo. The Yellow Jackets were installed in late 2010 and have about 45k on them. These coil packs are not new or perfect, but run ok. I reckon these would suit a low boost car fine (I'm running 20psi+). Reason for sale is changing over to Splitfires. Full disclosure: I've always had a niggly misfire in the car - hiccups on idle - and looks like it's still there with the new Splitfires too, maybe a touch better, go figure.. The resistance values are 1.53, 1.54, 1.51, 1.57, 1.54 and 1.57 so it's a very even set. Asking $150 ono – a new set is of Yellow Jackets $400 shipped. Melbourne inner north, pickup preferred. Can post at buyer's expense. PM if interested, cheers. --- 2. For sale an R34 GTT coupe steering rack with around 80,000kms on it, off a 1998 car. Decent condition, see photos below. All dust boots are in good nic and there's very little play in the rack ends so should be good for spares, too. I bought this off another forum member but it wouldn't bolt up in my R34 GTT 4door, so there must be a difference between the coupe and the sedan? You're welcome to take any measurements before purchasing. Asking $90 ono. Pick up only due to size, inner Melbourne. --- 3. For sale used leaky Driftworks braided oil cooler hoses with crimped AN10 fittings, for spares Things to note: Hose lengths are 115cm and 135cm This is heavy duty braided hose about ~25mm outer diameter The AN10 hose fittings for each hose are 90 degree elbow at one end and a straight one at the other. The fittings need a good clean. Caveat emptor: These hoses leak at the straight end, so you'll need to replace those two crimped hose end fittings. Standard Speedflow etc. AN10 fittings won't do because this hose OD is larger than the Speedflow AN10 hose. Not worth much so let's try $50? Pick up only, Melbourne inner north. Note: The photo above is of the whole oil cooler kit, new – this ad is for used hoses only --- 4. For sale R34/R33 transmission parts RB25DET manual transmission parts: $50 - R33 Series 2 fuse box to gearbox wiring loom $40 - R33 GTS-t manual coupe tail shaft rear part $20 - R34 turbo gearbox clutch fork (pull type) RB25DET automatic transmission parts: $25 - R34 GTT auto brake pedal $40 - R34 GTT auto sedan tail shaft front part Or $100 for the lot of trans parts. --- Notes: All prices ono and all parts in Melbourne near Essendon, pick up preferred. Only items specifically listed above are available, there are some in the photos that are gone This is a replacement thread for http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444714-vic-r34-gtt-parts-more-mel/
  16. Hi all, I purchased a neglected C34 series 2 Gtagea a few days ago. Non turbo RWD auto. It had 2 burnt coil packs, bad plugs etc which I sorted out. Once I did the first test drive in the car, it was apparent that the transmission is always in 4th gear (I think it's 4th) It certainly does not start off in 1st and it does not perform and gear changes at all. Feels like it's always in 4th. Sent it to the local Nissan dealer and they have plugged it onto their "consult" and apparently it says there is a fault with a solenoid. However, before they look inside the transmission pan, they want to ensure that the external wiring to the transmission is all good but they don't have the wiring diagrams for this car. They wanted me to try and source the transmission related wiring diagrams to make their job easier. Please point me in the direction if these diagrams if any of you have access to them. Thank you !!
  17. So I have a V160 with about 8000 miles on it and Im just curious if anyone has used the center section of a V160 with a R34 bellhousing and input shaft to use in a rear wheel drive configuration. If its too difficult or too hard to find the R34 parts I might just sell the V160 and use the cash to put into my R32.
  18. Who has serviced their Extroid Gear Box on their 350GT-8 model please? Workshop Specifies transmission flush to be carried out at 80,000kms & mines already on 89,000kms. Bought @ 71,500kms! I took it to Wakefield Park Raceway last Sunday & each time on the 5th/6th lap it would disengage the flappy paddles & it would jump gear by itself when I was driving slowly into the pit lane. It only stopped when I cooled it down on the back roads. I thought I had stuffed it completely by going hard in 2nd gear on the last corner one time. But it was mainly frying of the gear box I imagine. Every time I go hard on the streets now to overtake, you would get that same metal mechanism smell come from the Extroid box. Still works fine. But I wondered has anyone fixed the overheating issue on theirs? Does the transmission cooler go through the radiator for cooling? Or its a stand alone cooling unit? (That stupid tiny oil cooler at the right front of the bumper)... Also if you have serviced it. Was it is required to be in a closed, dust-free envioronment like Justin of Nagoya Motors (Caringbah, NSW) says it has to be in? Await your replies folks (if theres any out there with my troubles)...?
  19. Hi all, I'm going to be upgrading my auto r34 set up and I'm going to install some new gauges. What do people think about prosport gauges ? Also to install the boost gauge can I use any of the factory wires/ connections ? Lastly does an engine oil temp gauge work for trans temp ?? I can't find any trans temp ones so I was thinking about using an oil gauge and sensor for it ? Cheers guys
  20. Redline Lightweight Shockproof Gear Oil - Full Synthetic for sale, both bottles brand new and un-opened. I paid around $130, asking $115ono Only selling because I have far too much oil at the moment. Thanks!
  21. hi im wondering how to drop the gearbox of my 1990 gts-t skyline. the previous owner had put in a new engine and clutch but the pressure plate went and so the car can select gears but wont move. research put me in the dirction of throw out bearing and pressure plate needing to be changed. please, any help will be useful.
  22. I own an auto 1998 r34 gtt and I'm thinking about getting a larger turbo (roughly 350 hp rated). With manual cars the clutch would need to be upgraded but would anything need to be upgraded with an automatic ?? Any replies will be greatly appreciated Cheers, angelo
  23. I am selling a reconditioned RB20 Manual Transmission that was removed from an R32 Skyline. This transmission is tight and was reconditioned around 5-10k ago. This gearbox is nice and tight and would suit all aplications. Price: $650 ono Text me on my mobile if interested 0 4 6 6 5 2 1 2 1 4
  24. Hey everyone, I'm new to Skyline's and I own a semi-automatic R34 25GT. I've owned it for a little while now and after mucking around with the triptonic feature I am completely persuaded to look at a conversion. I was originally looking at manual but the deal with the car was solid so I settled for automatic. I know that it's not a cheap thing but I do plan on keeping the car for years to come. (On my red P's at the moment) Can someone please help me out with advice about doing this? Thanks!
  25. Looking for a half cut for an engine conversion. Not settled on one type of engine so let me know what you've got! Would prefer a complete half cut but if it's an RB20 or 25 I can get away with just an engine and gearbox as wiring parts etc. are easy to come by. PM or SMS on 0418 922 780