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Hi guys, just a quick few questions and I'm hoping I can get some clarification. After a bit of searching I haven't been able to figure out the answers to my questions only a bit of flaky info here and there. Basically, my ultimate plan is to swap an RB26 into a 25GT coupe. Given that the 25GT's are a lot cheaper than GTT's at auction and I can get a much cleaner car for less money. Now, what I wanted to know is from my understanding the transmission is weaker in the non turbo's than the turbo coupes. Also I believe the diff is different, smaller brakes and no traction control? Now the big question is I read somewhere that the suspension geometry is different as well. Is this true? And I'm also fine with a weaker transmission and diff since those are both going to be replaced anyways. But... if the suspension geometry is different from the GTT and GTR then that's something I want to look into a bit more and understand how different it actually is. Can someone tell me without a doubt what the exact differences are between the GT and GTT. Cheers, Aaron (from Canada)

I've had this issue for a while but it comes and goes and is progressively getting worse. I keep getting the A/T Transmission Check Light (AT Check). It used to come on periodically, usually during "spirited driving" in tiptronic mode however for the past 2 or 3 days it comes on as soon as I put it into drive and stays there for the entire drive. Transmission dipstick says it's full of fluid (although It's probably been a while since it was replaced), Just did an oil change so that's full. Any thoughts? I also occasionally get a clunk sound between gears after driving for a long time and usually between 3 and 4 or if that helps? On a side note, this is also similar to the airbag light that used to periodically come on and could be removed with the key to reds then off method and then it would dissapear for months but now it comes on straight away afterwards. Could this be related? /anything I can do about that. Any help would be greatly appreciated There are hundreds of little electrical gremlins in my stagea (2004 M35 250tRS4 btw) haha.

Hi all, I purchased a neglected C34 series 2 Gtagea a few days ago. Non turbo RWD auto. It had 2 burnt coil packs, bad plugs etc which I sorted out. Once I did the first test drive in the car, it was apparent that the transmission is always in 4th gear (I think it's 4th) It certainly does not start off in 1st and it does not perform and gear changes at all. Feels like it's always in 4th. Sent it to the local Nissan dealer and they have plugged it onto their "consult" and apparently it says there is a fault with a solenoid. However, before they look inside the transmission pan, they want to ensure that the external wiring to the transmission is all good but they don't have the wiring diagrams for this car. They wanted me to try and source the transmission related wiring diagrams to make their job easier. Please point me in the direction if these diagrams if any of you have access to them. Thank you !!

Hi All, Looking to buy the stock RB25det engine with complete ECU loom coupled with the Transmission for a project car @ $2.5k max Could you please 'pm anything you may have in relation to the above.

Hello Hello all! I have just joined and wanted to say hello to fellow Stagea enthusiasts. I have an M35 Stagea that I bought last year and I am LOVING it! She has a few simple mods but I will slowly give her more as time goes on. So far it has brake lock mod, transmission cooler and 3" turbo back exhaust system. I enhanced the look with some Simmons wheels. I do have a few questions for those in the know.... What type of auto transmission is in them? It's a fantastic auto and when I give it a boot full, it likes to hold at a rev and hold that rev through every gear. It's almost like it pre-selects the next gear or has a stally or something? Does everyone's do the same? Also, it takes a good five minute run before it goes into 5th gear, even if I manual shift. Wondering if it may be a solenoid on it's way out or the fluid needs changing or is wrong fluid? The other question I have is, I have seen the WC34 models with R34 fronts on them and they look amazing! Can I do this to my M35 or is it a completely different deal? What basic mods would you guys recommend for me to do to enhance performance? Thanks in advance for any thoughts and it's great to be here!

so i need to remove the radiator from my 250t rs four which has been converted into a 6 speed manual out of a 350z. it is still using the stock radiator so it has lines going into the radiator for cooling the transmission from when it was an auto. So, are the transmission lines connected at the bottom to the two brass fittings? (photo attached for reference) these have nothing attached to them so i am not sure what they are for, other than that. i think i may be mistaking the transmission fluid lines for something else as the lines I want to remove are on the passengers side of the radiator and coming off the side of it. this photo shows the lines i need to remove. Any help would be appreciated. cheers

Chasing an R34 GTR Tailshaft/Prop Shaft and Front Prop Shaft. Ready to buy, please PM me or reply to this thread.

Hey just wondering if anyone can help me out with some Info ! So I want to replace my 99 Gloria gearbox from the cvt gearbox to a normal Auto gearbox what gearbox will fit and would I need to change the ecu and other stuff ? ? any help appreciated thanx

Rattling in gearbox clutch disengaged/neutral Hey guys so been trying to track this issue for ages. When going over bumps or turning a corner/reversing with the gearing disengaged/clutch partially engaged the gearbox rattles heaps. Can physically feel all the gears rattling inside the gearbox and its real loud. The cars a r33 gtst with a tight shimmed diff i originally thought it was because of the diff being locked but since it happens going over bumps im not so sure...although its much much worse when reversing while turned. This issue leads me to the next problem which is a grinding between gears which i first thought to be the syncros but the issue is so much worse if you're mid drift and try to shift it grinds so much worse which i think stems from the above rattling as i pushed the clutch in to shift and the gears bounce all around the joint... Tranny mount when i bought the car was as loose and worn as an old hooker its since been made solid with polyurethane, all rear bushes replaced cept stock diff bushes, subframe collars, no difference made with those changes. Not sure what it could be. Don't think its engine mounts because its only with clutch disengaged so shouldnt matter..Thoughts lads? Thanks!

Hey guys so I need a bit of help. i read a thread on here about a shop called MV Autos over there in Australia that does a pretty awesome modification to the automatic trans in the r32's. Seemingly, it requires the car to be shifted manually and there is a shifter kit to go along with this? any info would be great!! Please and thank you! i reached out to MV auto but no response. Are they the only shop that does this? I have a specific reason for wanting this vs a manual gearbox she arrives stateside this Friday and I'm dying to get going right away with the modifications.

Filling transmission oil through gearstick? So after having to cut off the boot that goes on the bottom of the shifter (previous owner didnt use a circlip instead used a hose clamp and tightened it with hulk hands) I'm now stuck as to what to do next. I cant change the fluid through the actual transmission because the filler plug has been tightened by hercules. What do I do next to fill the transmission oil? And does anyone have the part number for the boot that goes on the bottom there?

Left my 1993 r32 gtr sitting for several months. gearbox was sticky and hard to get in and out of gear but was still manageable. car sat for another month or so and is now stuck in neutral. engine on or off makes no difference. Please help!

Transmission help pls Ok so my Nov'04 v35 has a sick transmission. I called around and found one out of a wreckers that came out of a '04 coupe which was supposed to be the same. The mechanic tells me the wiring harnesses are completely different so they are not compatible (may be different valve bodies). Has anyone had any transmission issues and can point me in the direction of a transmission expert to resolve this ??

Hello guys, I picked up a nice little 2003 350GT-8 with a buggered CVT gearbox, I fitted a secondhand CVT gearbox but was unable to rectify the faults. After about 1 year of spending time trying to find the faults, I decided I would make the leap and convert the sedan to a 6MT from a 350Z. Please try and refrain from writing things like "WHY DIDNT YOU JUST BUY A MANUAL TO START WITH" etc etc. I don't care. The car cost me $1500 licensed and all, and 2k for the conversion. Still cheaper than buying a 350 6MT. This post will contain as many photos as possible as I progress through the build. This will be continually updated as I complete the stages. I have never been able to find out about mounting the handbrake lever, or the legalities on cutting the transmission tunnel out to fit the gearbox. I hope to provide some light on these matters for the next person to take on the conversion project. Removed CVT and threw it in the skip bin. Best feeling of my life. GOOD RIDDANCE. Removed the following; Carpet (needed a clean anyway) Front and rear seats Center console HVAC and anything in my way Witing harness Airbag module, Gyro & Traction control module. (NOTE ANYTHING WITH YELLOW PLUGS IS SRS AIRBAGS, MAKE SURE BATTERY UNPLUGGED ALSO DO NOT FLIP OVER THE SRS MODULE FROM UNDER THE CONSOLE, IF YOUR BATTERY IS CONNECTED OR IT HAS CHARGE IT WILL SET OFF YOUR AIRBAGS. IVE SEEN IT DONE. VERY DANGEROUS.) Brackets and really anything you see is going to slow you down. Mock fitted the console and handbrake assembly to see the alignment. Measured gearbox to the tunnel. Pictures of the handbrake assembly and how it DOES NOT match anything on the original tunnel, I guess you could make up a few brackets and cut some holes but that is dodgy and I want this thing to be as good as factory when I am done. I have a manual tunnel from a 350Z, I have decided to remove the inner skin that has the moulding for the manual trans and the handbrake that I require. Once done will be as simple as bolting it all onto the new inner skin as per factory. I was able to drill out the spot welds with a Spot weld cutter available for $20 its like a little hole saw. I have a qualified boilermaker / engineer on hand to weld the skin into the cars existing tunnel. There are A LOT of little spot welds not marked with arrows, the arrows are just pointing out a few of the ones I started to cut out. More photos and info to come! Thanks

Like the title says, ISO wiring diagram for the A/T R32 4 speed. I can't seem to find one anywhere. Since I can't find the harness, I'm going to see if I can just snip some connectors off of my old chassis harness and re-pin them for the various wires. If anyone's got a lead on the diagram that'd be amazing. Also, can someone throw up a picture of their fuse box? There's 4 plugs on the side for the autos, I want to see what plugs go where. I'm assuming 3 plugs are for the transmission inputs since there's 3 sets of wires, the other plug I'm assuming is either alternator or something else? Thanks!

another V35 CVT story Not sure if I should start my post by 'Hi' or 'Help' Let's try Hi... Hi every one, I have a 2003 v35 350GT8, not rolling at the minute. The transmission 'disengaged' while I was on the freeway and now just refuses to engage at all, forward or reverse. I do get a slight jerk when I try to press the accelerator, but that's about it. I'm looking at 2 options, bite the bullet and get whatever I can get for it in the current state, or do a trans swap. I guess my questions now would be: - If I decide to sell it as is, what sort of price do you think I could hope for? -If I go with the trans swap, what would be involved, how much would that cost and do you guys know anybody on the central coast NSW that could do this? Thanks guys, bebetaz

Need some help with my speed sensor on the RB20DET. I've pretty much figured out where it's located, on top of the transmission, hard to reach without dropping the exhaust. The question is WHERE does it plug into on the harness? I know that the revolution sensor aka speed sensor on the RB20DET in the R32's is supposed to be mechanically driven, though...I've got a shielded cable with a white and red wire coming off of them. Whoever did the motor swap did some wacky wiring and I have no idea where anything goes now. I'm assuming that my speed sensor is electronic then? It's the RE4R01A trans (A/T) so I need anyone with an A/T to give me a hand right now with this. I spent the past several weeks tracking down diagrams for the TCM which are non-existent, diagrams to the transmission plugs (again non-existent) and searched this site up and down and kept getting zero results. The last question would be, IF I maintain the electronic speed sensor on the transmission, how would I wire it up? What plug did anyone use on their RB25 (those are electronic I believe). Obviously any and all help is greatly appreciated.

hi im wondering how to drop the gearbox of my 1990 gts-t skyline. the previous owner had put in a new engine and clutch but the pressure plate went and so the car can select gears but wont move. research put me in the dirction of throw out bearing and pressure plate needing to be changed. please, any help will be useful.

Hey everyone, I'm new to Skyline's and I own a semi-automatic R34 25GT. I've owned it for a little while now and after mucking around with the triptonic feature I am completely persuaded to look at a conversion. I was originally looking at manual but the deal with the car was solid so I settled for automatic. I know that it's not a cheap thing but I do plan on keeping the car for years to come. (On my red P's at the moment) Can someone please help me out with advice about doing this? Thanks!

Looking for a half cut for an engine conversion. Not settled on one type of engine so let me know what you've got! Would prefer a complete half cut but if it's an RB20 or 25 I can get away with just an engine and gearbox as wiring parts etc. are easy to come by. PM or SMS on 0418 922 780

Hi Guys, Well after having the transgo for about three weeks now I have to say im not impressed. In manual mode the 2>3 shift is very clunky and if i floor the car in drive regardless of what speed im going the down shift is very aggressive: like someone rear-ended you. I have noticed several issues with my car: 1) On several occasions in D at WOT the transmission would upshift way before redline (at ~5k rpm) and the change was not crisp or fast at all...I would say even worse than the stock transmission. 2) Another example is if im doing approx 60-70km/h and i floor it in D the transmission will downshift, then upshift, then downshift again. 3) Sometimes if im in D and i floor it, it takes 2 - 3 seconds for the car to react. During the few seconds before it downshifts it just accelerates in the gear that it is currently in (5th if im just cruising). 4) In D if i floor it the transmission will SLAM into gear with a loud bang...is this normal? I have reset the ECU by leaving the battery disconnected for about 10min. This didnt change anything. Has anyone had the same or similar issues with their transgo? I had it installed by a well know auto transmission shop in Perth but im now wondering if it was not installed correctly.

When in neutral, i push clutch right in, and give it some revs. 3500-5000rpm it grinds. Even when its in a gear and clutch right in, rev and it grinds. And when driving, changing gears at high revs grinds. If i let revs drop to 2000-3000rpm its no worries. 1993 nissan skyline r33 GTsT. Manual, single turbo. RB25DET.

I'm gathering parts for a manual conversion on my R34 25GT. I know the RB25DET box is physically a lot fatter and stronger but in some side by side pics on the web it actually looks a little bit shorter than the RB20/25DE box. There's also a pic out there of the 25DET box with a tape measure against it showing about 32 inches and the 20/25DE box I got already is more like 33 inches. Does that sound right that the weaker box is actually a bit longer? This info is to help me buy the right tail shaft. It would be equally useful to know the actual length of the propshaft front piece from an R33 GTS or R34 GT. Anyone got that info?

Out of ignorance and laziness i have found myself in a predicament where I cannot remove the shifter for the life of me I had already removed my shifter and wanted to put the car in gear, so i tried to quickly reassemble by just pushing the nylon shifter bushing into its hole without any collars or circlips etc, not realizing the bushing can come out of the bottom of the hole if pushed too deep, and of course, it did. Now the bushing is pivoting freely under the hole it operates in and ive spent hours trying to slide it back through without any luck or any sign that I am close. Can anybody tell me if its even possible to slide back through, or should I be going about this a different way?

Hi, looking for reducing my revs in 5th gear. The first gear has 24 teeth, and the 2nd cluster gear has 43 teeth. Could anyone point me in the direction of where i could buy gears to reduce the revs in 5th gear? Canberra ACT, Cheers!