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  1. RB25 det gearbox. In good condition. Only selling as I'm abandoning a track car project so it is at this point an unneeded spare $1500 Willing to work a deal with an rb25det engine Located North side of Brisbane Contact me on 0401297648 or [email protected]
  2. It's time to start clearing out my parts stash that's been gathering dust for years... R33 GTS-t gearbox, as removed from my R32 GTS-t (due to crash). Comes with - - R32 GTS-t tailshaft modified with a VL turbo front yoke (changeable uni) and balanced - Spacer/adaptor for crossmember to body - Shifter - Crossmember and modified gearbox mount - R33 electronic speedo drive (also have a cable speedo drive, but needs modifying) - No slave cylinder... All in good working condition, syncros and gear selection are perfect. $1700 ONO I'm in Lilydale (3140) Phone or SMS 0418 299 539, or PM me. Cheers, Darren.
  3. Hi guys, just a quick few questions and I'm hoping I can get some clarification. After a bit of searching I haven't been able to figure out the answers to my questions only a bit of flaky info here and there. Basically, my ultimate plan is to swap an RB26 into a 25GT coupe. Given that the 25GT's are a lot cheaper than GTT's at auction and I can get a much cleaner car for less money. Now, what I wanted to know is from my understanding the transmission is weaker in the non turbo's than the turbo coupes. Also I believe the diff is different, smaller brakes and no traction control? Now the big question is I read somewhere that the suspension geometry is different as well. Is this true? And I'm also fine with a weaker transmission and diff since those are both going to be replaced anyways. But... if the suspension geometry is different from the GTT and GTR then that's something I want to look into a bit more and understand how different it actually is. Can someone tell me without a doubt what the exact differences are between the GT and GTT. Cheers, Aaron (from Canada)
  4. Looking for a half cut for an engine conversion. Not settled on one type of engine so let me know what you've got! Would prefer a complete half cut but if it's an RB20 or 25 I can get away with just an engine and gearbox as wiring parts etc. are easy to come by. PM or SMS on 0418 922 780
  5. hi im wondering how to drop the gearbox of my 1990 gts-t skyline. the previous owner had put in a new engine and clutch but the pressure plate went and so the car can select gears but wont move. research put me in the dirction of throw out bearing and pressure plate needing to be changed. please, any help will be useful.
  6. Hey everyone, I'm new to Skyline's and I own a semi-automatic R34 25GT. I've owned it for a little while now and after mucking around with the triptonic feature I am completely persuaded to look at a conversion. I was originally looking at manual but the deal with the car was solid so I settled for automatic. I know that it's not a cheap thing but I do plan on keeping the car for years to come. (On my red P's at the moment) Can someone please help me out with advice about doing this? Thanks!
  7. I am selling a reconditioned RB20 Manual Transmission that was removed from an R32 Skyline. This transmission is tight and was reconditioned around 5-10k ago. This gearbox is nice and tight and would suit all aplications. Price: $650 ono Text me on my mobile if interested 0 4 6 6 5 2 1 2 1 4
  8. Hi all, I'm going to be upgrading my auto r34 set up and I'm going to install some new gauges. What do people think about prosport gauges ? Also to install the boost gauge can I use any of the factory wires/ connections ? Lastly does an engine oil temp gauge work for trans temp ?? I can't find any trans temp ones so I was thinking about using an oil gauge and sensor for it ? Cheers guys
  9. Left my 1993 r32 gtr sitting for several months. gearbox was sticky and hard to get in and out of gear but was still manageable. car sat for another month or so and is now stuck in neutral. engine on or off makes no difference. Please help!
  10. Hi Guys, Well after having the transgo for about three weeks now I have to say im not impressed. In manual mode the 2>3 shift is very clunky and if i floor the car in drive regardless of what speed im going the down shift is very aggressive: like someone rear-ended you. I have noticed several issues with my car: 1) On several occasions in D at WOT the transmission would upshift way before redline (at ~5k rpm) and the change was not crisp or fast at all...I would say even worse than the stock transmission. 2) Another example is if im doing approx 60-70km/h and i floor it in D the transmission will downshift, then upshift, then downshift again. 3) Sometimes if im in D and i floor it, it takes 2 - 3 seconds for the car to react. During the few seconds before it downshifts it just accelerates in the gear that it is currently in (5th if im just cruising). 4) In D if i floor it the transmission will SLAM into gear with a loud bang...is this normal? I have reset the ECU by leaving the battery disconnected for about 10min. This didnt change anything. Has anyone had the same or similar issues with their transgo? I had it installed by a well know auto transmission shop in Perth but im now wondering if it was not installed correctly.
  11. I've had this issue for a while but it comes and goes and is progressively getting worse. I keep getting the A/T Transmission Check Light (AT Check). It used to come on periodically, usually during "spirited driving" in tiptronic mode however for the past 2 or 3 days it comes on as soon as I put it into drive and stays there for the entire drive. Transmission dipstick says it's full of fluid (although It's probably been a while since it was replaced), Just did an oil change so that's full. Any thoughts? I also occasionally get a clunk sound between gears after driving for a long time and usually between 3 and 4 or if that helps? On a side note, this is also similar to the airbag light that used to periodically come on and could be removed with the key to reds then off method and then it would dissapear for months but now it comes on straight away afterwards. Could this be related? /anything I can do about that. Any help would be greatly appreciated There are hundreds of little electrical gremlins in my stagea (2004 M35 250tRS4 btw) haha.
  12. FS: R34 GTT & GT brake boosters, BM50 & BM44 BMC, DBA T3 310mm rotors, AN10 Hoses, R34/R33 transmission parts [MEL] Replacing my previous for sale thread with this updated one, here goes. For sale: 1. R34 GTT brake booster with BM50 master cylinder – $100 2. R34 GT brake booster with BM44 master cylinder – $100 3. DBA T3 4000 310mm rotors x2 for R34 GTT front, worn – $80 for the pair 3. Leaky Driftworks braided oil cooler hoses with crimped AN10 fittings, for spares – $30 4. R34/R33 transmission parts – $80 See below for details. All parts in Melbourne near Essendon, pick up only. PM if interested. --- 1. R34 GTT brake booster with BM50 master cylinder – $100 I was going to replace mine with this but my issue was elsewhere. Was sent to me as a working unit but I haven't tested it, you're welcome to inspect in detail The plastic fork collar is cracked on one side (see photos) but this shouldn't affect operation The master cylinder doesn't have BM50 stamped on it, however the outer diameter is the same as the BM50 on my GTT so I trust it's the same unit --- 2. R34 GT brake booster with BM44 master cylinder – $100 This was sent to me by mistake when I was after the GTT booster+master. Was sent to me as a working unit but I haven't tested it, you're welcome to inspect in detail This is in slightly cleaner condition than the GTT BM50 The BM44 BMC outer diameter is slightly smaller than the BM50 --- 3. DBA T3 310mm rotors – $80 Rotor are about 2 years and 20,000 old, with several track days on them I believe one of the rotors is slightly warped, it's fine for street use but does vibrate in hard braking (runouts are 0.10mm and 0.04mm) No visible cracks or significant heat stress marks on the surface Rotor thickness 29.1mm (new 30mm, minimum 28mm) --- 4. Leaky Driftworks braided oil cooler hoses with crimped AN10 fittings, for spares – $30 Hose lengths are 115cm and 135cm This is heavy duty braided hose about ~25mm outer diameter The AN10 hose fittings for each hose are 90 degree elbow at one end and a straight one at the other. The fittings need a good clean. Caveat emptor: These hoses leak at the straight end, so you'll need to replace those two crimped hose end fittings. Standard Speedflow etc. AN10 fittings won't do because this hose OD is larger than the Speedflow AN10 hose. --- 5. R34/R33 transmission parts – $80 RB25DET manual transmission parts: $50 - R33 Series 2 fuse box to gearbox wiring loom $40 - R33 GTS-t manual coupe tail shaft rear part $20 - R34 turbo gearbox clutch fork (pull type) RB25DET automatic transmission parts: $25 - R34 GTT auto brake pedal $40 - R34 GTT auto sedan tail shaft front part Or $80 for the lot of trans parts. --- Notes: All prices ono and all parts in Melbourne near Essendon, pick up only. Only items specifically listed above are available, there are some in the photos that are gone
  13. Filling transmission oil through gearstick? So after having to cut off the boot that goes on the bottom of the shifter (previous owner didnt use a circlip instead used a hose clamp and tightened it with hulk hands) I'm now stuck as to what to do next. I cant change the fluid through the actual transmission because the filler plug has been tightened by hercules. What do I do next to fill the transmission oil? And does anyone have the part number for the boot that goes on the bottom there?
  14. Hi all, I purchased a neglected C34 series 2 Gtagea a few days ago. Non turbo RWD auto. It had 2 burnt coil packs, bad plugs etc which I sorted out. Once I did the first test drive in the car, it was apparent that the transmission is always in 4th gear (I think it's 4th) It certainly does not start off in 1st and it does not perform and gear changes at all. Feels like it's always in 4th. Sent it to the local Nissan dealer and they have plugged it onto their "consult" and apparently it says there is a fault with a solenoid. However, before they look inside the transmission pan, they want to ensure that the external wiring to the transmission is all good but they don't have the wiring diagrams for this car. They wanted me to try and source the transmission related wiring diagrams to make their job easier. Please point me in the direction if these diagrams if any of you have access to them. Thank you !!
  15. Hi All, Looking to buy the stock RB25det engine with complete ECU loom coupled with the Transmission for a project car @ $2.5k max Could you please 'pm anything you may have in relation to the above.
  16. Merging my various for sale threads into one, here goes: 1. For sale a full set of 6 Yellow Jacket coil packs to suit R34 GTT, GT, and Stageas with RB25DE/T Neo – $150 2. For sale an R34 GTT coupe steering rack with around 80,000kms on it, off a 1998 car. – $90 3. For sale used leaky Driftworks braided oil cooler hoses with crimped AN10 fittings, for spares – $50 4. For sale R34/R33 transmission parts – $100 See below for details. All parts in Melbourne near Essendon, pick up preferred. --- 1. For sale a full set of 6 Yellow Jacket coil packs to suit R34 GTT, GT, and Stageas with RB25DE/T Neo. The Yellow Jackets were installed in late 2010 and have about 45k on them. These coil packs are not new or perfect, but run ok. I reckon these would suit a low boost car fine (I'm running 20psi+). Reason for sale is changing over to Splitfires. Full disclosure: I've always had a niggly misfire in the car - hiccups on idle - and looks like it's still there with the new Splitfires too, maybe a touch better, go figure.. The resistance values are 1.53, 1.54, 1.51, 1.57, 1.54 and 1.57 so it's a very even set. Asking $150 ono – a new set is of Yellow Jackets $400 shipped. Melbourne inner north, pickup preferred. Can post at buyer's expense. PM if interested, cheers. --- 2. For sale an R34 GTT coupe steering rack with around 80,000kms on it, off a 1998 car. Decent condition, see photos below. All dust boots are in good nic and there's very little play in the rack ends so should be good for spares, too. I bought this off another forum member but it wouldn't bolt up in my R34 GTT 4door, so there must be a difference between the coupe and the sedan? You're welcome to take any measurements before purchasing. Asking $90 ono. Pick up only due to size, inner Melbourne. --- 3. For sale used leaky Driftworks braided oil cooler hoses with crimped AN10 fittings, for spares Things to note: Hose lengths are 115cm and 135cm This is heavy duty braided hose about ~25mm outer diameter The AN10 hose fittings for each hose are 90 degree elbow at one end and a straight one at the other. The fittings need a good clean. Caveat emptor: These hoses leak at the straight end, so you'll need to replace those two crimped hose end fittings. Standard Speedflow etc. AN10 fittings won't do because this hose OD is larger than the Speedflow AN10 hose. Not worth much so let's try $50? Pick up only, Melbourne inner north. Note: The photo above is of the whole oil cooler kit, new – this ad is for used hoses only --- 4. For sale R34/R33 transmission parts RB25DET manual transmission parts: $50 - R33 Series 2 fuse box to gearbox wiring loom $40 - R33 GTS-t manual coupe tail shaft rear part $20 - R34 turbo gearbox clutch fork (pull type) RB25DET automatic transmission parts: $25 - R34 GTT auto brake pedal $40 - R34 GTT auto sedan tail shaft front part Or $100 for the lot of trans parts. --- Notes: All prices ono and all parts in Melbourne near Essendon, pick up preferred. Only items specifically listed above are available, there are some in the photos that are gone This is a replacement thread for http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444714-vic-r34-gtt-parts-more-mel/
  17. When in neutral, i push clutch right in, and give it some revs. 3500-5000rpm it grinds. Even when its in a gear and clutch right in, rev and it grinds. And when driving, changing gears at high revs grinds. If i let revs drop to 2000-3000rpm its no worries. 1993 nissan skyline r33 GTsT. Manual, single turbo. RB25DET.
  18. Hey guys so I need a bit of help. i read a thread on here about a shop called MV Autos over there in Australia that does a pretty awesome modification to the automatic trans in the r32's. Seemingly, it requires the car to be shifted manually and there is a shifter kit to go along with this? any info would be great!! Please and thank you! i reached out to MV auto but no response. Are they the only shop that does this? I have a specific reason for wanting this vs a manual gearbox she arrives stateside this Friday and I'm dying to get going right away with the modifications.
  19. I'm gathering parts for a manual conversion on my R34 25GT. I know the RB25DET box is physically a lot fatter and stronger but in some side by side pics on the web it actually looks a little bit shorter than the RB20/25DE box. There's also a pic out there of the 25DET box with a tape measure against it showing about 32 inches and the 20/25DE box I got already is more like 33 inches. Does that sound right that the weaker box is actually a bit longer? This info is to help me buy the right tail shaft. It would be equally useful to know the actual length of the propshaft front piece from an R33 GTS or R34 GT. Anyone got that info?
  20. Rattling in gearbox clutch disengaged/neutral Hey guys so been trying to track this issue for ages. When going over bumps or turning a corner/reversing with the gearing disengaged/clutch partially engaged the gearbox rattles heaps. Can physically feel all the gears rattling inside the gearbox and its real loud. The cars a r33 gtst with a tight shimmed diff i originally thought it was because of the diff being locked but since it happens going over bumps im not so sure...although its much much worse when reversing while turned. This issue leads me to the next problem which is a grinding between gears which i first thought to be the syncros but the issue is so much worse if you're mid drift and try to shift it grinds so much worse which i think stems from the above rattling as i pushed the clutch in to shift and the gears bounce all around the joint... Tranny mount when i bought the car was as loose and worn as an old hooker its since been made solid with polyurethane, all rear bushes replaced cept stock diff bushes, subframe collars, no difference made with those changes. Not sure what it could be. Don't think its engine mounts because its only with clutch disengaged so shouldnt matter..Thoughts lads? Thanks!
  21. Transmission help pls Ok so my Nov'04 v35 has a sick transmission. I called around and found one out of a wreckers that came out of a '04 coupe which was supposed to be the same. The mechanic tells me the wiring harnesses are completely different so they are not compatible (may be different valve bodies). Has anyone had any transmission issues and can point me in the direction of a transmission expert to resolve this ??
  22. another V35 CVT story Not sure if I should start my post by 'Hi' or 'Help' Let's try Hi... Hi every one, I have a 2003 v35 350GT8, not rolling at the minute. The transmission 'disengaged' while I was on the freeway and now just refuses to engage at all, forward or reverse. I do get a slight jerk when I try to press the accelerator, but that's about it. I'm looking at 2 options, bite the bullet and get whatever I can get for it in the current state, or do a trans swap. I guess my questions now would be: - If I decide to sell it as is, what sort of price do you think I could hope for? -If I go with the trans swap, what would be involved, how much would that cost and do you guys know anybody on the central coast NSW that could do this? Thanks guys, bebetaz
  23. Bizzwad

    Hello

    Hello Hello all! I have just joined and wanted to say hello to fellow Stagea enthusiasts. I have an M35 Stagea that I bought last year and I am LOVING it! She has a few simple mods but I will slowly give her more as time goes on. So far it has brake lock mod, transmission cooler and 3" turbo back exhaust system. I enhanced the look with some Simmons wheels. I do have a few questions for those in the know.... What type of auto transmission is in them? It's a fantastic auto and when I give it a boot full, it likes to hold at a rev and hold that rev through every gear. It's almost like it pre-selects the next gear or has a stally or something? Does everyone's do the same? Also, it takes a good five minute run before it goes into 5th gear, even if I manual shift. Wondering if it may be a solenoid on it's way out or the fluid needs changing or is wrong fluid? The other question I have is, I have seen the WC34 models with R34 fronts on them and they look amazing! Can I do this to my M35 or is it a completely different deal? What basic mods would you guys recommend for me to do to enhance performance? Thanks in advance for any thoughts and it's great to be here!
  24. So like i have an rb25det in a nissan laurel,and it has a transmission hooked up to it.since i bought the car it had an issue whereby when accelerating,the car seemed to be slow and sluggish,like if it was lacking air,and after a while it drived like normal,also it had an idle problem (only when in drive not park)the car would give a bad idle as if it had bigger cams,(not that it had any).This idle problem wasnt constant though,it happened randomly.But when the accelerator was floored it ran like a beast.however i recently had a problem when i put the car into reverse.immediately it would shut off.no bogging nothing just cuts off as if i turned the key off.i was wondering if yall could shoot some ideas my way.Thanks in advance
  25. Like the title says, ISO wiring diagram for the A/T R32 4 speed. I can't seem to find one anywhere. Since I can't find the harness, I'm going to see if I can just snip some connectors off of my old chassis harness and re-pin them for the various wires. If anyone's got a lead on the diagram that'd be amazing. Also, can someone throw up a picture of their fuse box? There's 4 plugs on the side for the autos, I want to see what plugs go where. I'm assuming 3 plugs are for the transmission inputs since there's 3 sets of wires, the other plug I'm assuming is either alternator or something else? Thanks!
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