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Build Thread

  1. Ok guys im new to this site and im in the need of help.. I need the pinout for the F3 plug on the wiring harness so i can complete my swap into my s13.... and if any of you guys have a write up or can point me the right direction that would be greatly appreciated... Thanks in advance
  2. HELP! I've spent the past week trying to nut this shit out, but I'm getting no where. To skip over a lot of details and cut RIGHT to the chase. I am trying to complete my stereo install on my 1989 R31 GXE. I have re-run speaker wiring to doors/parcel shelf etc. I cannot for the LIFE of me (Without fear frying my head-unit) figure out which is 12V constant. And Which is 12v Accessories/Ignition. After looking on multiple pages/sites/forums, I now know that BLUE/BLACK are the Accessories/Ignition & WHITE/GREEN is 12V Constant. However, I have 2 white/green and 2 black/blue wires: Also I was told investing in a Voltage Tester would help. I have uploaded a picture of the one I have which works on 240V accessories but will not register ANY current on any of the wires on my car. Is this perhaps due to the type of Tester I have, as it doesn't have a "ground lead"? So ultimately, buying the tester has gotten me no further along with something that should be so simple. If anyone at ALL can help me with nutting out these last 2 wires, it'd mean the world.
  3. HELP! I've spent the past week trying to nut this shit out, but I'm getting no where. To skip over a lot of details and cut RIGHT to the chase. I am trying to complete my stereo install on my 1989 R31 GXE. I have re-run speaker wiring to doors/parcel shelf etc. I cannot for the LIFE of me (Without fear frying my head-unit) figure out which is 12V constant. And Which is 12v Accessories/Ignition. After looking on multiple pages/sites/forums, I now know that BLUE/BLACK are the Accessories/Ignition & WHITE/GREEN is 12V Constant. However, I have 2 white/green and 2 black/blue wires: Also I was told investing in a Voltage Tester would help. I have uploaded a picture of the one I have which works on 240V accessories but will not register ANY current on any of the wires on my car. Is this perhaps due to the type of Tester I have, as it doesn't have a "ground lead"? So ultimately, buying the tester has gotten me no further along with something that should be so simple. If anyone at ALL can help me with nutting out these last 2 wires, it'd mean the world.
  4. (R34 nissan skyline gtt) Hey guys, The question is, is there any ACC power supply, ignition, cables that run through the engine bay anywhere!! i can use rather then feeding through the firewall and entering the cabin to connect? This may seem a stupid question but i cant find r34 wiring diagrams anywhere! My clutch on my radiator fan has broken and my radiator is wrecked so im installing a new radiator and switching to thermo fans instead. Now i have wired all of my cables correctly using the davies craig wiring instructions so all im looking for is an external ignition cable, I dont know if there is one but if there is it would save me a bunch of hassle. Any help would be much appreciated! Also if anyone is thinking of doing the same i couls upload photos of what i have done and show you how. Thanks guys!
  5. Hi everyone, as the title states im after a r32 gtr rb26 coilpack wiring loom. I can pick up any day but before 1PM, or can pay postage. Preferably VIC but interstate willing to freight will also be considered. In a hurry so no time wasting, cash waiting.
  6. Hey Peeps Thought I would do a write up as it seems there isn't one anywhere else and the 350Z or G35/V35 isn't the same.......... these colour codes were taken from a double din radio - non bose type. 12V Constant - Yellow/Pink. 12V Switched (Ignition) - Light Green/Pink. Ground - Red/Blue. Head Light Signal / Dimmer - Green/White. Front Left Speaker: White & Black. (do not know polarity) Front Right Speaker: Red & Green. (do not know polarity) Rear Left Speaker: Yellow & Brown. (do not know polarity) Rear Right Speaker: Pink & Blue. (do not know polarity) There were 5 colours left over but I did not bother finding out what they were. Cheers, Theo.
  7. Firstly Hi all, I have my project C33 laurel which was running the RD28 motor doing a 25DET conversion. Pertty much everything is done except the wiring, I have changed fuse box loom (from RB20E A31 cefiro) and cabin/dash loom (from RB20E C33 laurel). I have mannaged to get power to the dash and interior (windows, lights, heaters etc) but not getting any power to my ECU. Anyone able to help or guide as to what i may possibly doing wrong? cheers
  8. I have known for a long time that my 4wd doesn't work. with the ignition on and trying to do the attesa bleeding procedure my pump will not ever come on. i have 2 issues i believe, firstly, my pump has siezed up and i know this because i have bypassed the big relay in the boot and can not get the pump to start even whacking it the same way that frees up a fuel pump usually whilst bypassing the relay and giving the pump power. but i believe it has siezed because the ecu is not ever closing the relay. i have tested the relay on the battery and it is very noisy when it clicks closed. i can not hear the relay click closed when the ignition is turned to on which i have heard many other r32 gtr 4wd systems prime the pump every ignition cycle. i'm not getting any codes unless i induce a fault like unplugging the pump or a relay, so my ecu believes all is well and my front torque guage is operating correctly. my theory, my attesa ecu or wiring loom is stuffed and therefore the relay never closes and my pump is never getting used and that's why it has siezed up. any opinions would help. i should try another ecu and see if it closes the terminals on the relay and when all else is working well i should replace the pump, right?
  9. Attached is an Excel document which I painstakingly put together by hand, as I found some R34 GTT diagrams out on the internet either completely unavailable (bodyloom/m53/f3 plug) or unreliable (ecu pinouts) Ive sacrificed an entire engine loom to get this mapped out correctly and Ive taken the liberty to add in all wire colours. The first worksheet in the document is of what I call the 'body loom' plug or 'M53' or 'F3' plug if you are familiar with other Nissan looms. This takes all input/output from the ecu to non-engine related things. In the case of the R34 this is things like the auto trans control, traction control, dashboard outputs and inputs and power/switch feeds and triggers. I required a pinout of this plug as when going a full wire-in aftermarket ECU, many of your connections will be made at this plug. Nowhere on the internet could I find a correct pinout of one of these for an R34 GTT. The second worksheet in the document is a standard ER34 (auto) ECU pinout, with all pins labelled as to their function and also the wire colour. Enjoy, I hope this helps anyone who needs it. R34Pinouts_Final.xlsx
  10. Hi guys, I am fitting an RB25DET 3 pin pink label AFM to an SR20DET. The plug I have for the RB AFM is not an original RB25 plug and so the colours are different. Therefore I can't distinguish which is ground, signal and power as all topics online state wire type based on colours. I need to know in which position they are so I can determine how to wire it up on SR loom. Can someone please show me a photo of an RB25 3 pin AFM plug showing which colour is in which position coming out of the plug please? I could not find a clear image anywhere Cheers Ads
  11. Hey guys, as you can see there is a few quite alot of wiring action going on at the back the engine, Has anyone relocated these sensors/plugs or what ever they are ect? Im thinking they're in a vulnerable spot in terms of getting to hot considering they're jammed up at the back of then engine bay around the cam covers. any advice on how to get these sh**ts out of the way would be much appreciated Can anyone tell me where and how to relocate all these wires!? it just looks messy!
  12. in need of some help... i was tapping into the two wires that go the the little light around the barrel and i had bumped the two together coursing it to arc out... since then my light dose not work after i have changed the bulb and checked all the fuses and there was none that where blown, where do these two wires go as i was wondering if there is a fuse down the line or dose it go to a relay i am now dumb founded and at ends with it frustrated and ready to burn it, iv tried to track the wires but loose the after about 4' coz it goes into the big loom with all the ignition wires any help will be a advantage P.S reason i was tapping into them was coz i was steeling the power to run my led floor lights as the light that gos around the barrel times out once the doors are shut
  13. Hi.... if u guys remember me, i got tru with the L20ET its running quite fine! But i have a new problem, i need to get a L24E wiring diagram i can't find 1....and i also need to kno if the L28E wiring is the same as the L24E if not, whats different? and can i use the L20ET loom and ECU for the L24E and add in what extra wires after...i do have an L20ET wiring diagram (3 plug style) i know the L24E ECU connector is 1 long jack tho... so can someone please help me!!!!! Thanks!
  14. Hey guys, I am about to drop my 300kw SR20 into a R32 shell and am struggling to find any technical information regarding the swap aside from the below. Use SR cross member Need custom tail shaft I really want to know what is necessary from a wiring perspective and if anyone has already done the swap any hurdles they came across. Yes i have extensively searched the interweb, and pls no comments "why no rb" lol ive heard it all already!!!! Cheers!
  15. Hello everyone, first post on the forum. I live in California and I'm trying to get some info for a project of mine. I have a 1973 Datsun 240z that I'm attempting to install an RB25det NEO engine and 5 speed transmission into. I am having a heck of a time finding a "HowTo" for wiring a NEO engine. I do not want to pay to have a harness build as I'm quite capable, provided I have the info I need to complete the job. I have been scouring the internet looking for any sort of well written how to on the topic. While I was on another forum I saw a member there who had received lots of help from a member of this forum. The member heres name is Simon, but I do not know how to get in contact with him. I'd like to speak with him to see if he would be willing to share some info with me. Below is a link to the other forum post I'm speaking about and in it you will find the reference to Simon. Simon is not the only person I'd be willing to take Info from, ANYONE with the information that is willing to share with me would be greatly appreciated. I am just looking for a basic (These are the wires you will need, ie: color/pin number, to apply switched power, ground, constant power ect) type of help. I appreciate everyones time and hope to have this project on he road soon, given your help. http://forums.nicoclub.com/my-r34-rb25det-neo-f3-plug-pin-wire-colors-still-confused-t542427.html Thanks again.
  16. Hi everyone, i'm having a starting issue with my a31 cefiro, it has a s1 rb25det in it, the issue is, the car has been working fine, but lately the car stopped starting when turning the key to start, it would just wind over happly not firing, the strange thing is as soon as i released the key it would start, like between start and on on the key barrel? its getting worse and some times won't even start after releasing key, any ideas? thanks
  17. hey guys i bought my skyline a few months ago off someone who didnt know much about the car so ive begun the long process of learning what has been broken/changed and ive recently been playing around with all the loose wiring they have left behind... i noticed under the steering column theres a long cleer tubing with what looks like a screw with a spring behind it? looks as though its coming from the engine bay somewhere....anybody have any idea what this is? i have a picture included.... also is it hard to remove a turbo timer? i have a greddy full auto timer and it seems when i tried to jump start (noob mistake...know not too now..) it must have fried it because it just turns on now and doesnt do any function lol.... is it a matter of just following cords and taking them out or is it a bit of stuffing about....same for neons? has these installed but they are faulty/turn on and off if u jiggle the cord so bit of a fire risk..... i better not start on the subwoofer/amplifier wiring in the boot which sparks while your driving lol....
  18. Hi, Seeing this is my first post, I better say it's great to be here. Sorry my first post is regarding a problem. I've recently been taking my interior more or less apart. Doing this, I found a KMH to MPH converter connected behind my cluster. This is what it looks like disconnected. Clearly it is AFM. Probably installed by the guy who had the car before me. I took it out due to two reasons. 1. I would like it in km/h if possible. 2. I didn't like the quality of the install. The green and red wire goes directly onto the cluster - Two screws securing it. They are located around the back of the speedometer. The blue wire goes from the black PIN-connector (Upper row, 2nd from middle). Original wire is grey with 2 red lines. Yellow wire goes from the bundle of cables which is behind the cluster. Also grey with 2 red lines. The converter says as follows: Red: 12v Green: Earth Yellow: KMH signal input Blue: MPH signal output I am not a 100% sure the yellow wire goes from the bundle and the blue from the PIN. Perhaps it's the other way around. If necessary, I will naturally make sure as soon as I am at the car (it's parked in a garage for the winther). I've had a voltmeter onto where the yellow cable was connected - With the engine running it occasionally gave a small reading. Note: It was only in idle. Is it possible to just connect the 4 wires (2 from the car, 2 from the speedo-cluster) to get a KMH signal, or should I just reinstall the converter? Furthermore, how should the 4 wires be connected to one another? Car spec: Skyline R33 GTST S2 Haven't been able to find any answer. I hope I'm not asking a stupid question. Any help is much appreciated.
  19. I am having a small electrical problem. My car will only work if this plug is not plugged in. Other wise it just shorts when I attached the battery terminals. Does anyone know what it is for? It is the middle plug located under the fuse box in the engine bay pictured below. Please help... Thanks.
  20. 2001 nm35 stagea Hi all i apologise if there is a post about this somewhere but im in a bit of a rush. Im after a wiring diagram or a photo of the wiring on the ccu-3072v navagation system, the ground wire came out of the harness and there is too many empty holes for extra wires it both plugs. Tia
  21. Hi, If some one have/had gauge like this can tell me how to connect it properly? I have 2 connectors, 1 is for gauge and I connect all wires, 1 is for sensor and from sensor connector i have 3 free wire: gray, green, and brown. The problem is my Warning don't work, I set it from behind at 2.0 bar but when i test and pump over 2 bar the red LED doesn't blink And when i connect brown wire to black wire from gauge it blink all time. So my question is how to connect it properly ?
  22. Alarm changeover R33 Hey guys/gals, Just looking for some clarification before i go ahead and attach the new alarm. Attached are some photos of what I'm dealing with and labelled to what I've figured out is going on. So I had a Mongoose Mx40MkII and is being replaced by a M20. I'm not fussed if it's worse or better than whats in there, as I've had problems with the Mx40 for years (one remote working at any one time, lock/unlock stopped working, randomly stop dis-engaging immobiliser). (wiring diagram images are new alarm left, old alarm right) Questions are as followed: What is the green cable....on the diagrams? (the one that runs to the turbo timer? there is 3 cables that run to the turbo timer, 12v+ on the red and the blue runs to the White with black stripe in the ignition? its not working with that one green cable disconnected) . And what do I do with the central locking? (there was only 2 cables from the old alarm, what am I looking for when I connect them to the green and the blue? (referring to top of left wiring diagram, where there are 5 options)) Any help appreciated, thank you. P.S can post more photos if it helps
  23. NM35 - Putting Back Together Hey everyone, just wondering if anyone can help me. Im putting an NM35 back together (was gutted), I have all the parts here, I'm getting her back together but I'm running into a few issues. My current issue is the heater/aircon buttons not coming on. I plugged everything in and put it in place and I can hear the air coming out, but there's no lights on and I can't change anything. Help???
  24. R33 Air Mix Door - plug wires Hi, Can some one show me correct/working plug pins in air mix door unit? I have swapped wires in my plug and cant adjust cold/hot air
  25. Need help: R32 GTS short circuit (car won't start) 1991 R32 GTS Manual I was cleaning up wiring in my car as almost all r32 wiring is molested, i had took off plenty of old wires that were already cut and not in use and when i finished my car wouldn't start, i checked my fuse box and my shift lock fuse had blown, i replaced it and it had blown again and i could hear a short circuit, i do not know what to do now.
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