Search the Community

HELP! I've spent the past week trying to nut this shit out, but I'm getting no where. To skip over a lot of details and cut RIGHT to the chase. I am trying to complete my stereo install on my 1989 R31 GXE. I have re-run speaker wiring to doors/parcel shelf etc. I cannot for the LIFE of me (Without fear frying my head-unit) figure out which is 12V constant. And Which is 12v Accessories/Ignition. After looking on multiple pages/sites/forums, I now know that BLUE/BLACK are the Accessories/Ignition & WHITE/GREEN is 12V Constant. However, I have 2 white/green and 2 black/blue wires: Also I was told investing in a Voltage Tester would help. I have uploaded a picture of the one I have which works on 240V accessories but will not register ANY current on any of the wires on my car. Is this perhaps due to the type of Tester I have, as it doesn't have a "ground lead"? So ultimately, buying the tester has gotten me no further along with something that should be so simple. If anyone at ALL can help me with nutting out these last 2 wires, it'd mean the world.

HELP! I've spent the past week trying to nut this shit out, but I'm getting no where. To skip over a lot of details and cut RIGHT to the chase. I am trying to complete my stereo install on my 1989 R31 GXE. I have re-run speaker wiring to doors/parcel shelf etc. I cannot for the LIFE of me (Without fear frying my head-unit) figure out which is 12V constant. And Which is 12v Accessories/Ignition. After looking on multiple pages/sites/forums, I now know that BLUE/BLACK are the Accessories/Ignition & WHITE/GREEN is 12V Constant. However, I have 2 white/green and 2 black/blue wires: Also I was told investing in a Voltage Tester would help. I have uploaded a picture of the one I have which works on 240V accessories but will not register ANY current on any of the wires on my car. Is this perhaps due to the type of Tester I have, as it doesn't have a "ground lead"? So ultimately, buying the tester has gotten me no further along with something that should be so simple. If anyone at ALL can help me with nutting out these last 2 wires, it'd mean the world.

Hi everyone, as the title states im after a r32 gtr rb26 coilpack wiring loom. I can pick up any day but before 1PM, or can pay postage. Preferably VIC but interstate willing to freight will also be considered. In a hurry so no time wasting, cash waiting.

Hey Peeps Thought I would do a write up as it seems there isn't one anywhere else and the 350Z or G35/V35 isn't the same.......... these colour codes were taken from a double din radio - non bose type. 12V Constant - Yellow/Pink. 12V Switched (Ignition) - Light Green/Pink. Ground - Red/Blue. Head Light Signal / Dimmer - Green/White. Front Left Speaker: White & Black. (do not know polarity) Front Right Speaker: Red & Green. (do not know polarity) Rear Left Speaker: Yellow & Brown. (do not know polarity) Rear Right Speaker: Pink & Blue. (do not know polarity) There were 5 colours left over but I did not bother finding out what they were. Cheers, Theo.

Firstly Hi all, I have my project C33 laurel which was running the RD28 motor doing a 25DET conversion. Pertty much everything is done except the wiring, I have changed fuse box loom (from RB20E A31 cefiro) and cabin/dash loom (from RB20E C33 laurel). I have mannaged to get power to the dash and interior (windows, lights, heaters etc) but not getting any power to my ECU. Anyone able to help or guide as to what i may possibly doing wrong? cheers

Hi.... if u guys remember me, i got tru with the L20ET its running quite fine! But i have a new problem, i need to get a L24E wiring diagram i can't find 1....and i also need to kno if the L28E wiring is the same as the L24E if not, whats different? and can i use the L20ET loom and ECU for the L24E and add in what extra wires after...i do have an L20ET wiring diagram (3 plug style) i know the L24E ECU connector is 1 long jack tho... so can someone please help me!!!!! Thanks!

2001 nm35 stagea Hi all i apologise if there is a post about this somewhere but im in a bit of a rush. Im after a wiring diagram or a photo of the wiring on the ccu-3072v navagation system, the ground wire came out of the harness and there is too many empty holes for extra wires it both plugs. Tia

Alarm changeover R33 Hey guys/gals, Just looking for some clarification before i go ahead and attach the new alarm. Attached are some photos of what I'm dealing with and labelled to what I've figured out is going on. So I had a Mongoose Mx40MkII and is being replaced by a M20. I'm not fussed if it's worse or better than whats in there, as I've had problems with the Mx40 for years (one remote working at any one time, lock/unlock stopped working, randomly stop dis-engaging immobiliser). (wiring diagram images are new alarm left, old alarm right) Questions are as followed: What is the green cable....on the diagrams? (the one that runs to the turbo timer? there is 3 cables that run to the turbo timer, 12v+ on the red and the blue runs to the White with black stripe in the ignition? its not working with that one green cable disconnected) . And what do I do with the central locking? (there was only 2 cables from the old alarm, what am I looking for when I connect them to the green and the blue? (referring to top of left wiring diagram, where there are 5 options)) Any help appreciated, thank you. P.S can post more photos if it helps

Fuel pump not receiving power hey guys, so i have recently starting working on my 98 four door i have gotten it turning over with the starter but it is getting no fuel. i pulled the pump and have found a replacement for it, ready to go but decided to test the connections and found there is no power. i have traced it back, checked fuses, got to the relay and found there is only one relay and two terminals. so questions are: is the fuel pump relay in the boot behind the brake lights? the color of the cable running to the pump and to these terminals seem to be different how do i tell if a relay is working? i have a multimetre but i am only getting continuity on some posts. do both connections require a relay?

Hi all, I purchased a neglected C34 series 2 Gtagea a few days ago. Non turbo RWD auto. It had 2 burnt coil packs, bad plugs etc which I sorted out. Once I did the first test drive in the car, it was apparent that the transmission is always in 4th gear (I think it's 4th) It certainly does not start off in 1st and it does not perform and gear changes at all. Feels like it's always in 4th. Sent it to the local Nissan dealer and they have plugged it onto their "consult" and apparently it says there is a fault with a solenoid. However, before they look inside the transmission pan, they want to ensure that the external wiring to the transmission is all good but they don't have the wiring diagrams for this car. They wanted me to try and source the transmission related wiring diagrams to make their job easier. Please point me in the direction if these diagrams if any of you have access to them. Thank you !!

Hi, I have owned my r33 gtst for a couple of years now and ever since i got it the first thing i noticed was that when lock or unlocking the car only the drivers side indicator flashes. I was just wondering it anyone knew how to connect it to the hazards ( the alarm is an autowatch 446rli, there are 2 wires that create a 12 volt circuit to trigger the indicators). My main problem is not being able to grasp how the hazards activate. Thanks in advanced for any help, Joe

hey guys. i'm prepping to swap a SR20DET into my C33 laurel. The car was a RB20E A/T car. The issue I have is that I got the car with a VQ35 swap. I do not have the original RB20E engine and tranny harness. I do have a S13 SR20DET harness though. Can anybody help a brother out here?

So I've had an issue with the cabin/dome lights in my C33 Laurel. They were replaced with LEDs before I bought the car, but they will not turn on. The fuse is good, but it looks like there isn't any power at the switch. Is there a common point of failure for the lights/wiring? I'd like to avoid tearing out all of the wiring unless I have to.

Hi All! Just a quick one - I am installing the OEM GTT triple gauge pod into my NA-T converted R34 however am having some trouble. I found a post on this website about how to do it, including the wiring diargam but I do not have the wiring loom for these gauges, especially the plug which goes into the back of them. If anyone has this plug/wiring loom I would be more than happy to purchase it off you so do let me know! Failing finding a plug, is there any other way to get these gauges to work? Any help would be hugely appreciated! Nihal

I have a Clarion Radio/Cassette in an Aus delivered GTR. It was fitted by Nissan Australia as OEM in 1992. Part Number PN9325I. I'm looking for a schematic for the radio as it has an internal problem. Tried Clarion in Aus and Japan. Drawing is of pin specs looking at the back of the radio. Any advise appreciated. Radio pin ins..pdf

so i got a AEM boost and oil temp gauge, can i use the old stock gauge wiring to wire in my new gauges

Hello all. I am trying to install a Viper 5706V into my GTT and everything is working except for the remote start. I am struggling to figure out the pinout of the ignition barrel. It seems that there is 2 starter pins (White, and White/Red) and only 1 ignition pin (Black/Red) HELP. Everywhere I look online and in all of the documentation on the alarm. It says there should be 2 ignitions. What am I missing here. If any other R34 Owners have one of these systems installed with the remote start. Would you be able to send your wiring diagram. (How you have it installed) The Viper one is horribly worded and is making life a pain. -T3

Hello everyone! Not sure if I introduced myself before. Name's Andres, from the US, the great state of Texas. I've been into s13's and s14's for a while now. My latest projects are an s13 with a stock rb25det which I'm currently working on and near completion, working on paint right now. My other is an s14 with an rb25det with bolt ons which I currently daily drive, and boy what a joy that is. Here's a couple of pictures of both: Anyway, I am here today to bother you searching for knowledge from the people who know the mighty gtr more indepth and speak the same language. Some freaking how, an idea of swapping the entire powertrain and drivetrain from either a 32 or 33 gtr into an s13 has gotten into me and I can't shake it off. Complete with the attesa system. Now, the plan is to keep everything stock, turbos and tune, just the typical fmic, exhaust and filters, and also keep the car as stock looking as possible. And yes, I realize the level of difficulty this task represents, but that's only part of what's attracting me to it. The plan is to swap the complete front and rear subframes along with the front strut towers. After reading for a while it seems that the geometry of the r33 suspension is far superior to that of the r32. Parts are also newer which means that generally parts should be in better condition, and the engine doesn't have the same oil problems the r32 does. To be honest, the fitting of the parts sounds like a lot of fun to me: measuring, cutting, welding. I've been going through chassis measurements for s13, r32 and r33, and it doesn't really seem very challenging. I have also been pricing stuff... thank god I'll be selling both of my 240sx's soon. There are a few threads on different sites of people who have done it, unfortunately they are years old and all the pictures are down, and you all know how much pictures can help. Here's a couple that I found from a fellow member from this site, truly inspiring, Im sure you all know who he is: Ok, I'll get to the point. I need info regarding the electronics of the attesa system, how it works with the abs system to be specific (assuming I won't be using the r32 v-spec or whichever it is that don't use abs). I know the attesa system works together with the abs system, but Im having a little trouble understanding how people delete their abs on their gtr's. I know the abs pump can be bypassed using kit's sold online which includes brake lines, but according to multiple sources the rest of the abs system including electronics, have to stay for the attesa system to work properly. I've been trying to understand this diagram. Can anybody tell me to which model it belongs? Now, before we continue, I know that there are aftermarket controllers out there, but I am not interested. To put it simply, I am not looking to get anything re-tuned. I want to bolt eveything and wire everything on, and have an attesa system on an s13 to work as similar as possible to a gtr minus the abs. According to that diagram, the attesa connects directly with the abs actuator. I know there's a pump in the engine bay and an abs ecu, by the attesa ecu in the trunk, iirc? I know the pump in the engine bay has an electrical connector. To which unit does the attesa ecu connect directly? Or is it both? I know the attesa ecu connects directly to the wheel sensors, g sensor, engine ecu, attesa actuator/solenoids, but I'm having difficulty understanding how it connects to the abs. Can anybody in here help me with that? Also, would anybody happen to know where I can find a fsm for an r33?

Hi guys, currently wiring a RB30/25 into an R31. My question relates to the wiring at the TPS, wire colour from harness to TPS, which is 5v supply, earth return, signal, from the red, white, blue wires coming from the sensor? I have diagrams showing the harness side however I don’t have a factory connector on the sensor to reference pin position

hey all. been trynna tidy up some sketchy mods so kindly left hidden by the previous owner like Easter eggs inside my baby. since ive had the car ive had no working horn. the steering wheel is after market and the boss kit seems to have no brand name on it at all. as far as i can tell the hicas is hooked up well enough (when i take out the hicas fuse the car's steering goes floaty, so it must be working, right?) but no wires had been fed through the boss kit to to horn button. i must note that the boss kit has quite a solid body so i cant see through it like some of the framed ones. it just seems to to sit over a thin black plastic plate(?) and connects into the box which holds the indicator and wiper stalks. my two main issues are this... i can not find the horn wire and am struggling to find a straight-forward answer to which colored wire is the horns and where it either comes from or goes to. being a previously molested car, the wiring behind the wheel and in the footwell have seen better days and in some spots it seems wires have been cut and soldered back onto themselves.. ive been tinkiering with the green and red striped wire that has had one end soldered back to either itself or a ground wire, and am starting to think its been hardwired off out of convenience when the boss kit was installed. but if its not the horn wire then im wasting my time. ive tried to look at pics of the column after the wheels been removed to try and find clues of what plugs and wires need my attention, but it all looks different because mine is all covered up by the boss kit which leads me to my second problem, i cant remove the boss for the life of me. and because i cant get a good look between the kit and the column, i cant tell which parts im supposed to pull and which parts im not. i dont wanna keep trying to tug if the boss kit is hardwired on(if that's a thing) and im also kinda scared that all my pulling and prying might damage that yellow round thing that's exposed when the wheel's off (seen it in pics and have been told its important and not to funk with it)... but since i cant remove or look past my boss kit, im not sure what side of the stalks it's on.. from my perspective it looks like the thin plastic plate between the stalks and the boss kit are apart of the boss kit that needs removing but im pretty sure the boss kit should be solid metal, and all that is plastic stays on the car. the thin plastic plate looks like it wiggles and doest quite sit flush in either direction. if anyone has any advice on how to identify the horn wire after some mild molestation, or any info on different boss kits that might shine light on mine (hardwired or cheapo brands with strange plastic bits?) or if someone has any pics of what the column and wires would look like stock so i can work backwards from the molestation. or even if someone has a side on pic of an installed boss kit so i can see what it consists of when attached and what parts should and shouldnt move when trying to remove the boss kit. a wiring diagram would also be helpful. sorry about the big write up over something small but i feel like it should be easier than this, and its only being made harder by a stubborn boss kit that cant be moved or looked past. it just looks so very different from other boss kits, it doesn't even appear to have anywhere to feed the wires through unless you cut the clips and feed through the small gap between the boss and thin plastic plate, which is a good solution but dosnt seem like the original intention. thanks in advance for any help that may come my way. my car is a 93 r33 gts25t s1. i have poor internet connection and no working camera on my phone so i may be slow to reply but please bare with me, and i'll find a way to take photos and upload them as needed.

Need help: R32 GTS short circuit (car won't start) 1991 R32 GTS Manual I was cleaning up wiring in my car as almost all r32 wiring is molested, i had took off plenty of old wires that were already cut and not in use and when i finished my car wouldn't start, i checked my fuse box and my shift lock fuse had blown, i replaced it and it had blown again and i could hear a short circuit, i do not know what to do now.

Hey guys, I've searched and searched google and this forum, but have not been able to find what I'm looking for. Either it doesn't exist, or I'm just asking the wrong people! lol I'm trying to figure out some of the wiring in my R34 GTT, and cannot find pinout info for any of the plugs for the chassis, more specifically in the engine bay. There are two plugs attached to the fuse box, and I'd like to know where each of the wires goes. I've found some for the power steering solenoid, and for the oil light and battery light, but I don't know what the others do. I'm also trying to figure out where the signal wire for the coolant temp indicator terminates in the engine bay. Is there a plug somewhere, or does it go directly to the connector on the sensor? If anyone has pin information for the connectors in the engine bay, I'd really appreciate a share. Thanks!

R34 Gt 25det install Hi Guys, New to the forum but have not had much luck elsewhere. Basically I am putting an rb25det neo into an r34 gt coupe I have a full import motor with complete gtt loom as well as gt loom from the rb25de that was pulled out of the car Does anyone have any insight as to what I can do to either of these looms to get them to run the 25det neo motor Thanks,

R34 steering rack Anybody know if there is a difference in an automatic steering rack and a manual one on the r34?? i have a plug on my alternator loom for the steering rack but I have no sensor on the rack for it to plug into, thinking i may have an auto steering rack?? My car is a factory manual first photo is my rack, and second photo is one of the net

Hi, I've been searching with no luck around the web, I'm trying to find out pinouts on the f3 plug for an engine conversion if anyone can have a look or trace the ecu plug to the f3 plug just need vss speed/ revs/mil / dash temp and ignition might aswell put fuel pump for future reference for others just doing a engine conversion sold the main engine loom with the engine I am pretty sure yellow/green is speed and yellow/red is rpm not sure on mil light or temp any help would be wonderful thanks