Jump to content
SAU Community

Atf Cooler Related Issues


calvin
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all! My name is Calvin and I am from Hong Kong. I am driving a R34 GTT with auto gearbox. Thanks Maxx for introducing this great forum to me!

I read some posts regarding ATF cooler (Sydneykid is very pro!), and I would like to share my experiences and get some opinions also.

When I change the radiator to FWIN 2 layers type, I purposely chose a M/T type, w/o the part for the ATF to go through. For 2 reasons, one is because it is cheaper (LOL) and another reason is because I think it is kind of useless in HOT country like Hong Kong. Right now, the ATF goes to the ATF cooler directly and goes back to the gearbox.

In my personal view, it is for warming up and to avoid the ATF temp drop below working temparature. Since Hong Kong is very hot and a lot traffic jams, I think "warming up" and "keeping" will not be a concern. That's why I chose to bypass it.

What are your opinions?

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my personal view, it is for warming up...

Calvin, welcome, that's pretty much it, plus it is generally cheaper for car manufacturers to make auto-trans coolers as part of the radiator. It's a compromise and it adds to the load on the radiator.

It's been shown that replacing the stock cooler with an external oil/air type can extend the life of the auto trans considerably - esp when engine performance is increased and/or the car is used for towing on a regular basis (ie trans load is increased). It is best to mount the new trans cooler in free air to maximise the benefit, but that's not always possible, of course.

I've had many auto cars over the years and the first thing I do is fit an aftermarket trans cooler. Personally I think it's virtually mandatory when the car hasn't been originally designed for Australian conditions (and yes I realise your from Hong Kong ;)).

Edited by SteveL
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Calvin, welcome, that's pretty much it, plus it is generally cheaper for car manufacturers to make auto-trans coolers as part of the radiator.  It's a compromise and it adds to the load on the radiator.

It's been shown that replacing the stock cooler with an external oil/air type can extend the life of the auto trans considerably - esp when engine performance is increased and/or the car is used for towing on a regular basis (ie trans load is increased).  It is best to mount the new trans cooler in free air to maximise the benefit, but that's not always possible, of course.

I've had many auto cars over the years and the first thing I do is fit an aftermarket trans cooler.  Personally I think it's virtually mandatory when the car hasn't been originally designed for Australian conditions (and yes I realise your from Hong Kong :)).

Thanks Steve for you reply :)

So it is mainly for "warming up" and it is important for COLD area, for HOT area like Hong Kong, by passing it should have no harm done to the gearbox, right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So it is mainly for "warming up" and it is important for COLD area, for HOT area like Hong Kong, by passing it should have no harm done to the gearbox, right?

No it's not mainly for warming up, sorry if I gave you that impression. I would definately recommend having some sort of trans cooler, even if your car is stock. It's likely the trans wouldn't suffer in the short term, but the risk increases over time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No it's not mainly for warming up, sorry if I gave you that impression.  I would definately recommend having some sort of trans cooler, even if your car is stock.  It's likely the trans wouldn't suffer in the short term, but the risk increases over time.

I still have the stock transmission cooler installed, just by pass the hose going through the bottom of the radiator. Right now is the ATF will go through the stock ATF cooler to cool down and back to the gearbox directly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm trying to maintain stock appearance . Hicas is still installed (although has lockout kit) did you retain factory fuel pump hat? If so I assume you used a bulkhead fitting or similar ?  I was also trying to avoid a full re design as it was previously dynoed at 426kw atw with same setup but different pump. Changing return line would also mean having to change ethanol sensor and fpr and possibly fuel rail. Not chasing more power in any way just reliability of the setup 
    • I do think it's weird I had it for 2 weeks then the issue came up out of nowhere and progressively got worse. I would've imagined changing everything in the ignition system would've resolved any ignition related misfires but still has the high rpm and idle misfires that seem unchanged. I would've thought if it was fuel related it would happen all the time unless it's the pump losing pressure when it gets hot. If it was the ecu I would think it would do it all of the time.  Something I noticed when I had it all apart was a pretty decent coating of oil in the J pipe coming from the throttle body. The weird thing about that is the pcv that goes to the intake is blocked off. So that has me wondering if the oil is coming from the turbo because that's the only thing that could get oil in there. This thing does sound like it spools like a mofo like I'm a former dsm guy and the only stock turbo I've ever heard spool this loud (to only go up to about 5psi) is on a diesel truck. And the recirculated bov is really loud too I had a TurboXS RFL and this thing is just as loud and being so low on psi seems a little weird. I don't know if any of this is or isn't related but just trying to make sure I'm not leaving any potentially helpful information out. 
    • So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before.  So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe  the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running.  So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it. 
    • @niZmO_Man thanks for that info, lucky I bought the gktech ones 🤙.
    • Never cheap out on brakes, tyres, suspension. I learnt the hard way at Oran Park lol
×
×
  • Create New...