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Diy Aac Valve Cleaning & Idle Reset.

insu

By insu,
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insu
insu

Updated: 18/05/06 Disclaimer: This information is provided for your information only, anything you choose to do with this information is completely up to you and in no way will I, Skylines Australia

space_monkey
space_monkey

Thanks Anthony. I'll give that a go after I pick up some small screwdrivers. I can't seem to get my car to idle below 750rpm no matter how far in I turn the idle adjust screw. When I try to set the b

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Endless604 Apprentice

Endless604

Posted
Posted

i just did it on my R32 (rb20det)

took about 30mins, had the ecu out too, but didn't have to touch it. I used combustion chamber cleaner instead, and set the idle to 900rpm warm...up from 600rpm (factory spec)

idle's much smoother, no more stalling issues with the hks ssqv, annoying stalls with the A/C on, or stuttering when clutching in and decellerating.... or rpms dropping when im driving with the headlights on and heater on at night. this is such a wicked faq. there is no excuse not to clean/inspect your AAC valve!

THANKS INSU :thumbsup:

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cooks44 Collaborator

cooks44

Posted
Posted
When I took mine off for the clean I took the idle adjust screw all the way out. Around it was a rubber sleeve. Now whenever I try to screw it back in the sleeve just rolls up the screw and I'm concerend that air may leak in through any gaps.

Anyone got any suggestions on how to get this rubber to seat on the screw inside the thread again??

What else do you do when you're playing with a screw and you can't get the rubber in?? Whack a bit of lube on it! :mellow: Bit of Vase', you'll be fine.

I believe the rubber is only there to prevent the screw from adjusting with engine vibration and such.

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  • 2 months later...
RT33 Collaborator

RT33

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this solved the fluctuation in the revs and stopped my car from stalling. it only take about 30 mins if you know what your doing. i didn't even have to adjust the idle after it was perfect.

even if you dont have rev or stalling problems i highly recomend you do this.

BIG THANKS to INSU for this diy

i don't hate my car anymore thanks to you!!!

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prosman Enthusiast

prosman

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great tutorial, helped me immensely in cleaning my aac valve on my r32 gts-t. two things i have noticed though, on my car you had to disconnect the TPS rather than the brown plug on the AAC valve to adjust the AAC idle as you would on an r33. secondly, did anyone else find it ridiculously hard to screw in the idle screw while adjusting the AAC valve idle? i dunno why but i got it down to about 900rpm and its pretty much stopped moving.

anyways thanks again dude great writeup!

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Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

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great tutorial, helped me immensely in cleaning my aac valve on my r32 gts-t. two things i have noticed though, on my car you had to disconnect the TPS rather than the brown plug on the AAC valve to adjust the AAC idle as you would on an r33. secondly, did anyone else find it ridiculously hard to screw in the idle screw while adjusting the AAC valve idle? i dunno why but i got it down to about 900rpm and its pretty much stopped moving.

anyways thanks again dude great writeup!

If it was ridicuously hard to turn, probably the O-ring on the AAC Value screw is all dry and crumbling. Time to replace that O-ring.

When I took out my AAC value, I removed the screw, the Solenoid, the piston and spring inside and gave it a good clean with carby cleaner. Put it all back together using carby cleaner as a lubricant and replaced the old tired O-ring. Cost my $0.50 for the O-ring.

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benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

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Posted
If it was ridicuously hard to turn, probably the O-ring on the AAC Value screw is all dry and crumbling. Time to replace that O-ring.

When I took out my AAC value, I removed the screw, the Solenoid, the piston and spring inside and gave it a good clean with carby cleaner. Put it all back together using carby cleaner as a lubricant and replaced the old tired O-ring. Cost my $0.50 for the O-ring.

Did you ask for a receipt?

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benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
Posted
Did you ask for a receipt?

I've just got to the stage where I have pulled it out ready for cleaning. Jeez it's fiddly!!

I'm looking in your pics as when I pulled the last hose off I think I knocked some bit of plastic or something down around and settled in the many cavities beside the engine. Can't see it, I hope I remember to jack the car after all this and see if I can see it from the bottom.

Wierd thing is I can't see any clips or other bits I am missing (compared with your photos)

I guess that's what I get for doing things at night :)

Hope it fixes the occassional hunting.

My car will be fine for a month or so - then a hot day or add the A/C and you'll get rev hunting for 5 minutes or so..

quite random..

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benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
Posted

Ok - all done. Cleaned it up..but I got a hint of the hunting again today. maybe part of it is faulty?

Anybody else found this.

It will be ok for a few days then for a bout 30 seconds the idle will fall and rise...the injector duty cycle stays the same (I have PFC)..

Sounds very much like it is the AAV and that is why I cleaned it.

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god's rx Contributor

god's rx

Posted
Posted (edited)

I tryed this today and all was going well, i adjusted the idle with the brown bit unplugged (i have a 1989 R32 Skyline) and then plugged back in, revs were nice at 1000rpm then i turned her off, started her up and instantly the revs were up around 1600rpm. i then tryed again this time with the TPS disconnected and then re-connected and the best i can get is about 1500rpm (including adjustin the ECU idle).

Seems to backfire and burble on engine breaking a lot more but still feel smooth when driving

Could this be leaks or should i now try the IAC valve under the throttle body?

initial reason for cleaning the AAC valve was idle hunting and stalling which i still suspect to be a dodgey BOV but now i cant get the engine to idle how it used to (even if it was stalling).

Edited by god's rx
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GTS4-32 Rising Star

GTS4-32

Posted
Posted

I just cleaned mine out, alot easier than i thought...took about 45min for a beginner.

Yea i also had troubles putting the idle screw back in, but what i did was unscrew it out, then back in, back n forth pretty much until it found its way back in the hole pretty smoothly. Now my idle sits steadely on 900rpm wen warmed up. Great DIY Insu, solved my stalling issue. :happy:

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WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
Posted

My ECU adjustment screw does nothign aswell, not a thing. I have cleaned my ACC valve ect, but on the R33 if i disconnect the Tp it does not idle below 900rpm, eaven with the ACC screw all the way in. No go for me. I think my Cold start valve is stuffed or not closing.

I have tested for air leaks, but no good there either.

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kingy_06 Enthusiast

kingy_06

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Posted

just performed on my 32 and went sweet, really helped all the problems! One thing though..when i was adjusting the idle screw on the side of the ecu, it didnt nothing at all and i think i may have gone past the 12 o'clock point! Is this ok, any side affects? It did nothing to my idle!

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insu Rising Star

insu

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just performed on my 32 and went sweet, really helped all the problems! One thing though..when i was adjusting the idle screw on the side of the ecu, it didnt nothing at all and i think i may have gone past the 12 o'clock point! Is this ok, any side affects? It did nothing to my idle!

The ecu is only meant to adjust the idle in 50rpm increments from memory, and should only be used if for some reason your car isn't idling as it should from the idle by-pass screw. Even through the whole range of the screw which is like 70deg or something, there isn't much adjustment there.

I wouldn't worry about it too much, cause i've never heard of anyone having to use the computer adjustment.

As for going pas 12 o'clock, if you do it puts the car in diagnostic mode from memory. Shouldn't be a problem if you turned back. If you turned it beyond 3-4 o'clock i think it is thou, you can f**k the little switch, so don't do that.

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