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Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift


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What did you end up doing for lifters?

I now have a spare s/h set here, will pull them out and give them a good clean.

Also.. Can you take note if there's ANY difference in before/after oil pressure. Obviously only when warm, allthough it may also affect cold but my guage max's out on cold start up anyway. :D

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Cubes

I ended up scoring a second hand head at a decent price so I am taxing the head for the lifters - cheapest option is to use standard second hand ones for now as im not changing the cams to go for solids.

My engine max's out on oil pressure when cold too. So yeah when i get it all running again I will post the oil pressure results.

The biggest thing for me will be the amount of oil being pushed out of the engine - get tooo much oil in the top end.

Going to be a big mission.

What did you end up doing for lifters?

I now have a spare s/h set here, will pull them out and give them a good clean.

Also.. Can you take note if there's ANY difference in before/after oil pressure. Obviously only when warm, allthough it may also affect cold but my guage max's out on cold start up anyway. :D

Edited by Guilt-Toy
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thanks very much for that sydneykid, top information indeed

does anyone want any specific pictures of an engine being assembled as mines off to the machiner and then will be assenbled in a few weeks time

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Howdy SK,

Mate, you really need to fire up Excel one day....you don't know what you're missing out on!! :D

As the formatting was all cocked up on your original post, I decided to pop it all in a nice, neat Excel table for you. Just have a quick double check to make sure all of the values I entered are correct.

Hope this is useful (god knows, what you do for us sure is!).

Cheers,

Mike

Nissan_RB_Cylinder_Head_Oil_Restrictor_Chart.zip

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my only worry is blocking off the rear restictor on my rb20 eventho im using a n1 pump.

i can see using a 1.5mm restrictor in the front but wouldnt it be better to run another 1.5mm restrictor in the rear feed.

im just trying to understand the how and why behind this as my motor isnt as worked as sk stated it should be in that chart...

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my only worry is blocking off the rear restictor on my rb20 eventho im using a n1 pump.

i can see using a 1.5mm restrictor in the front but wouldnt it be better to run another 1.5mm restrictor in the rear feed.

im just trying to understand the how and why behind this as my motor isnt as worked as sk stated it should be in that chart...

What i noticed with Sydneykids posts is that when he says something he is allways right wether its a generalisation or not. (if that makes any sense)

Note the Topic. it says.

"Oil Controll In Rb's"

RB means rb20 as well to me!

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Hahahaa looks like everyone is jumping at the opportunity to help Sydney kid - Seeing he helps us out all the time =)

If everyone whom he helped sent SK only 1 carton of beer he'd put VB out of business.

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If everyone whom he helped sent SK only 1 carton of beer he'd put VB out of business.

Supply on demand is why fuel costs so much. So if everyone did this.. Imagine how much a carton of beer would cost ? lol

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Guest Mashrock

what do you do when your car has come from japan, clearly has been used for circuit work, and looking like its raced many laps and still goes like a champion?

should i suspect all the parts are inplace? as auction sheet tell me sheet all.

i do have rather large oil pressure. compression is fine and everything else is a1.

caus i'm stingin to take it out to eastern creek for a good ol thrashing.

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what do you do when your car has come from japan, clearly has been used for circuit work, and looking like its raced many laps and still goes like a champion?

should i suspect all the parts are inplace? as auction sheet tell me sheet all.

i do have rather large oil pressure. compression is fine and everything else is a1.

caus i'm stingin to take it out to eastern creek for a good ol thrashing.

Take a look at the sump, if it has wings then it will most likely be OK. If it doesn’t have wings, then I wouldn’t be going anywhere near a circuit until it does. Especially if it’s a 4wd. Just because it lived a life in Japan, doesn’t mean it will live one here. The guy driving it might have been a woos and blasted down the straights and trickled around the corners ie; no G forces to cause the oil surge.

At the very least watch the oil pressure and temperature guages like a hawk the first time out.

:) Cheers :D

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while we're on this topic, what is the best way to block the other oil feed?

so we block it at the top? are there any issues with oil riding in the block however not circulating?

Edited by SirRacer
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while we're on this topic, what is the best way to block the other oil feed?

so we block it at the top? are there any issues with oil riding in the block however not circulating?

I was just going to block it of with some newspaper or some glue tak or something LOL j/k

Hmmmm.. Good question... Whats the best way ? can just tap the old restrictor down and screw something in its place to block it off?

Hmmm

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you could use copper rod at the diameter of the feed, after you knock down the original restrictor ..

pretty sure this has been suggested as an alternate to the purchase of a tomei style restrictor when you can use copper rod with a hole drilled to custom specs ..

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So once you have knocked the origanal restrictor down. Where does it go?? Does it stay in the block?? Not sure I like that idea, maybe you can use an ease-out to pull it clear of the block???

As for a new size restrictor, just make up a bronze or copper bush with the right size orifice! Sounds too easy.

I'll check this out this week and get back later.

Turbine

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