Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[accel junky 0]

Read backwards from pages 81-49. Wish I'd seen this before my 26 had to be pulled and rebuilt. I have a 1.5mm restrictor with N1 pump, stock sump w/ Tomei baffle, Hi-Octane baffles, oil cooler. Builder (here in the states no so experienced with these oil control topics I guess) talked me out of head drain which at this point after reading I'm not upset about any more. I tried leaving cam covers tied together and routing one to a small vented catch can which did nothing but blast my bay with oil spray (whilst overfilled to the hump...probably aerating). So I have a Hi-Octane 3 liter can incoming with 12AN fittings for each cam cover. At this point for various personal reasons pulling the motor again soon is not an option for me but otherwise being now-educated I eventually plan on extended sump with vent fittings and a smaller restrictor.

Therefore, I'd love to know if anyone has had any practical experience running the dipstick to a catch can. I saw some bare mention of it a few times but it looks like few have noted ever trying it. My thinking is that if I weld a Y off the tube, I can still use the stick to check the oil level. The tube appears to terminate even further up than the sump vent fittings I've seen pictured which should be even safer for preventing oil sloshing up. I have no issues blowing out the dipstick currently. Obviously this is not the most optimal idea (fairly small opening and all...) but I'm not going on the track (very sadly) until I can pull the motor for the extended sump anyways, so I wonder if this will at least provide some worthwhile benefit for my street blasting in the meantime? My hunch is that it can only help.

Crude drawing attached...

Edited Wednesday at 08:38 PM by accel junky

[GTSBoy 2,017]

The dipstick is so small that it can only offer a tiny improvement.

[burn4005 185]

I run a -12 vent from the sump so the dipstick ain't doing shit

[KiwiRS4T 700]

10 hours ago, accel junky said:

Read backwards from pages 81-49. Wish I'd seen this before my 26 had to be pulled and rebuilt. I have a 1.5mm restrictor with N1 pump, stock sump w/ Tomei baffle, Hi-Octane baffles, oil cooler. Builder (here in the states no so experienced with these oil control topics I guess) talked me out of head drain which at this point after reading I'm not upset about any more. I tried leaving cam covers tied together and routing one to a small vented catch can which did nothing but blast my bay with oil spray (whilst overfilled to the hump...probably aerating). So I have a Hi-Octane 3 liter can incoming with 12AN fittings for each cam cover. At this point for various personal reasons pulling the motor again soon is not an option for me but otherwise being now-educated I eventually plan on extended sump with vent fittings and a smaller restrictor.

Therefore, I'd love to know if anyone has had any practical experience running the dipstick to a catch can. I saw some bare mention of it a few times but it looks like few have noted ever trying it. My thinking is that if I weld a Y off the tube, I can still use the stick to check the oil level. The tube appears to terminate even further up than the sump vent fittings I've seen pictured which should be even safer for preventing oil sloshing up. I have no issues blowing out the dipstick currently. Obviously this is not the most optimal idea (fairly small opening and all...) but I'm not going on the track (very sadly) until I can pull the motor for the extended sump anyways, so I wonder if this will at least provide some worthwhile benefit for my street blasting in the meantime? My hunch is that it can only help.

Crude drawing attached...

Have you even got a problem with "street blasting"? Problems usually occur only with extended bursts at high revs which you will normally only manage on a track. And no dipstick won't do it.

[burn4005 185]

I used to get a lap or two around QR at full tilt before I start filling the can (before all the oil control mods). You must be driving like a mad man on the street.

[accel junky 0]

Appreciate the responses. Engine isn’t coming out again so soon due to life so I’ve got to try to make the best of what I can get to or else park the car for a while. I figured it was probably not going to offer much but can it be worse? I’ll give you an example of street blasting: 30min drive, warm up then about 3-4 WOT high rev (8k) straight line pulls consisting of 2-3 gears each, everything logged, 25psi with meth. 100ml in the 250ml can (aware that is far too small) some of it meth or water and oil sprayed out the filter into the left side of the bay. I figure that is probably a bit much for a few quick pulls but I’d filled to the hump to sort out straight line pressure drops I’m having, so maybe aerating. I have a bigger catch can coming from hi-octane as soon as they finish the coating and with much bigger lines from the cam covers. I don’t dare take the car on the track until I have it sorted on the street. There is a possibility the engine builder left me with the blow by problem but I’m not sure yet. I have a cylinder at 10% below the highest cylinder and full improvement with a wet test but the car was shut off for 3 hours with adjacent plugs all in so not exactly a proper operating temp test.

Edited Friday at 12:44 AM by accel junky

[djr81 249]

This is one of the most popular threads on SAU but for my 10 cents worth it is the rings that are the issue not the rest of everything.  So before building an engine please think long and hard about the rings and dont just get whatever comes with the pistons.... 

As an example and for those in Oz I found these folk very good:

http://pacificengineparts.biz/

[KiwiRS4T 700]

5 hours ago, accel junky said:

Appreciate the responses. Engine isn’t coming out again so soon due to life so I’ve got to try to make the best of what I can get to or else park the car for a while. I figured it was probably not going to offer much but can it be worse? I’ll give you an example of street blasting: 30min drive, warm up then about 3-4 WOT high rev (8k) straight line pulls consisting of 2-3 gears each, everything logged, 25psi with meth. 100ml in the 250ml can (aware that is far too small) some of it meth or water and oil sprayed out the filter into the left side of the bay. I figure that is probably a bit much for a few quick pulls but I’d filled to the hump to sort out straight line pressure drops I’m having, so maybe aerating. I have a bigger catch can coming from hi-octane as soon as they finish the coating and with much bigger lines from the cam covers. I don’t dare take the car on the track until I have it sorted on the street. There is a possibility the engine builder left me with the blow by problem but I’m not sure yet. I have a cylinder at 10% below the highest cylinder and full improvement with a wet test but the car was shut off for 3 hours with adjacent plugs all in so not exactly a proper operating temp test.

Yes 250ml is way too small needs to be 2L at least. Maybe do a leakdown test to see if you have a major problem.

[Duncan 975]

Also, if the engine is super new, give the rings some time to bed in before being too worried. Make sure you run it pretty hard rather than just idling or driving at low load.

One quick fix that will work better than a dipstick vent is to vent via the oil cap. Just put on a alloy cap and weld a large dash fitting on

[accel junky 0]

10 hours ago, Duncan said:

Also, if the engine is super new, give the rings some time to bed in before being too worried. Make sure you run it pretty hard rather than just idling or driving at low load.

One quick fix that will work better than a dipstick vent is to vent via the oil cap. Just put on a alloy cap and weld a large dash fitting on

I’ve got 2000 miles on it and honestly I have been punishing it pretty regularly. The only thing I’m concerned with about break in is that the builder did not honor my request for a oil thermos stat with the cooler so I struggle to get temps much above 160F (especially with it being the winter). He insisted I didn’t need it but seeing the temps on the street I should’ve held my ground. So I plan to rip all that out and run new lines with a thermostat. I did see some other manufacturers with OEM cap vents. Would the oil cap vent be of particular use even with the 12AN cam cover lines to the catch can? I’ve moved my splash shields back for the cam cover baffles too, not sure if that makes a difference for the cap.

[KiwiRS4T 700]

17 hours ago, accel junky said:

I’ve got 2000 miles on it and honestly I have been punishing it pretty regularly. The only thing I’m concerned with about break in is that the builder did not honor my request for a oil thermos stat with the cooler so I struggle to get temps much above 160F (especially with it being the winter). He insisted I didn’t need it but seeing the temps on the street I should’ve held my ground. So I plan to rip all that out and run new lines with a thermostat. I did see some other manufacturers with OEM cap vents. Would the oil cap vent be of particular use even with the 12AN cam cover lines to the catch can? I’ve moved my splash shields back for the cam cover baffles too, not sure if that makes a difference for the cap.

In the mean time some people just make a cover for the oil cooler and remove it for the track (or the summer).

[GTSBoy 2,017]

Yup. Piece of corflute will fix it.

[Duncan 975]

I don't know if it will fix the problem in your case, but the oil cap vent is the quickest bandaid way to improve things to find out....