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When it comes to removing paint, the guys use brake fluid and a good wash after in soapy water.

In fact, for good paint adhesion we always wash in soapy water before painting.

For fixing clear plastic we use a clear glue sparingly and polish to a gloss with toothpaste.

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When it comes to removing paint, the guys use brake fluid and a good wash after in soapy water.

In fact, for good paint adhesion we always wash in soapy water before painting.

For fixing clear plastic we use a clear glue sparingly and polish to a gloss with toothpaste.

Oven cleaner works very well and does not damage the plastic. Spray the car, then place it in a sealed bag. Leave it for 10-15mins and viola, paint rinses away.

For polishing, Brasso is another good one to use. Once it is polished, dip it into acrylic floor polish like Pledge One-Go.

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Thanks Cowie. The white R33 GTR you built looks great. I hope I can get mine up to scratch.

The 1991 1:18 diecast Bathurst model GTR, I bought for $189 two and a half years ago in Hobart Tassie at Mccains models.

They had two of the same ones for sale and I bought one of em.

Build no. of this one is:4532 of 4626

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a couple more tips....

for plastic kits, I'd recommend a decent primer... otherwise the paint will eat the plastic straight up...

I use pva glue for clear plastics, it doesn't leave white burn marks/hazing on the plastic like the modelling cement can do. (i don't know how pva glue feels about this!) :(

I also use the pva when attaching bits which require paint to paint contact, but can't be "roughed up" a little first. eg: tail lights which get painted on the side you need to glue.

a few other things that i couldn't do without in my kit....

(ladies, go hide your manicure sets...) :(

an emery board

nail clippers (i find them less awkward than side cutters for some things)

tweezers

Blue tac

7 gazillion different 00, 000, 0000 paintbrushes

a block of wood that all paints get tested on before use (always test consistency of paint if you haven't opened them for a while!)

a tiny dish (sushi dipping bowl) for decal soaking (i lost one in a big bowl once) :D

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One question for GTRgeoff....doesn't the brake fluid damage the plastic or don't you keep it on for long enough??

I know it damages paint because I dripped a single drop onto one of my rims a few months ago and it now has a big 'pimple' the size of a 1c piece : Bummer. Good thing they need painting anyway! :D

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It shouldn't damage the plastic, but I just leave it on until the paint separates.

Oven cleaner sounds good too.

I use an old model for paint practice and detail airbrush ideas. Best cleanup is my 4L can of auto thinners.

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To the people in VIC, there is a big model/hobby show on at Sandown this Sunday.

It combines the 11th Melbourne scale model enthusiasts fair, National Nostalgia Toyfest, and CollectaWorld Megafair.

Theres a bunch of traders coming from interstate for this, so it should be worth a look!

More info:

Sunday April 9th

9am-4pm

Gate 2, Sandown Racecourse

Admission Adult $4, child $3, family $12

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Thanks Caz. Passed on to my hobby club as they didn't have it on the website so I guess knew nothing of it.

BTW for Northern Melbourne folks my club details are here http://home.iprimus.com.au/brianth/ and there is a mix of all sorts of modellers....except those train weirdos :D

Here is the latest newsletter with some tips. Apr_06__Newsletter1.pdf

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It shouldn't damage the plastic, but I just leave it on until the paint separates.

Cheers geoff...I would've thought that it would have at least discoloured the plastic but I will give it a go.

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Okay guys, no laughing... this is my first ever attempt at any kind of model building/painting etc... Just completed the other day, my Initial D Impact Blue sileighty! The front bar had to be modified, so thank god I know how to do acrylic nails, that's the best gap filler EVER! ;)

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And my attempt at a custom interior :O

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My nail bag is constantly out when Andy's working on models, and I have found that my glass nail file is the best tool EVER for altering parts :D

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I like to say I build model cars... In reality I start big modelling projects and..... ahh that seems to be it lately :

Anyway, I've been working on this KPGC10 GT-R. It started as a Tamiya model (as the tamiya one is by far the best and the only one with engine bay detail), however I'm fitting a Fujimi L-series motor with triple carbs, tube headers, metal bellmouths etc instead of the S20. Externally its getting massive works style flares to cover Fujimi watanabes which scale out to 15x14" in the back (with "345/35R15" advan semi slicks..) and 15x10" fronts,... The rears are almost hard up against the wheelarch inside to fit under those flares, haha.

Its got a cage sitting in it from my Calsonic HR31 kit, which it might get as its closer to the hakosuka than the 31, so I'm planning to use it in the hakosuka and refabricate a better one for the HR31.

Have some period style racing seats to go in it too, and made an aluminium sheet rear firewall (will have no back seat). I've got an oil cooler and stuff for the front, should be cool in a few months when its all done.

Car as it sits now, long way to go yet:

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Motor, waiting on distributor and plug leads, breather hoses etc to finish it off:

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I have a big pile of other kits waiting, I'm building a Bosozoku style C110 coupe, and I have, erm, 4 HR31 skyline GTS-R kits and one HR31 GTS-R calsonic race car to do...

Edited by floody
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hi and i thought i was the only weird one around here. looks like alot of people are aswell. im not into car models but i really want to know if i can somehow get a model r32 gtr and a r34 gtr and switch the front so that the r32 has a 34 front. i want to be able to make a mini replica of my own car.

as i said im not a car modeller but i love gundam models, currently sporting 2 gundam models.

Gundam Zero Wing 1/60 Perfect Grade

Gundam Strike Rouge + I.W.S.P Perfect Grade

no pictures at the moment because im not a good enough painter so right now they are left as is. i want to buy some cheaper models then start practicing painting on them first.

Perfect grade gundam models are hefty in price. about the 200-300 dollar mark easily. i'm forcing myself to give it up so i can afford to complete my car first. it isnt working because im goin to japan where im buyin more >_>

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ok well, i've just finished my Veilside S14 in the Green with Gold and Silver "glitter" through it (although it only shows up in the daylight). i also finished my R34 GT-t (its a little rushed....). am also posting up a pic of a mates R32 GTR VspecII (Bullet32 on the forums, too lazy to do it himself!!!) and a shot of my very messy work-space :

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I have made a few now, and after Anna's first, she's ready to get stuck into another! Frink, that Veilside S14 is incredible. Well done mate :twothumbsup:

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thanks guys. im starting an R32 GTR now, which is a jap group A car, but i think i'll turn it into a really mean street car. going to look awesome.....

Edited by Frink
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