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Polishes/wax


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Anyone know what happened with the old " final inspection" forum?

Hadn't even looked on there in years went back to try find some info on there new products and much to my surprise it appears to be no more?

Was a good source of info on their gear?

Edited by noone
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  • 5 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi gents,

I have a 1998 silver GTT that spends her life outside. Can you please recommend a sealant for her to be applied with a hand applicator? Preference for durability and cost under $100. Cheers!

Use the duragloss products I mentioned in my last post, or Nanolex if you can afford it. My paint is still fine after 3 years of sitting almost constantly in sunlight. If I wasn't lazy, I'd do paint correction with some Menzerna products, but otherwise the 105 and 601 combo combined with regular washing and semi regular Aqua Waxing does the trick.

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  • 1 month later...

I tried to use their Clay bar and it was useless. Fell apart while using it like biscuit crumbs.

Went back to Mothers clay bars

I no like Bowdens. Sold at Supercheap and I think it's cheap and not super

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I prefer and always used Maguires Polishes and Waxes ,

Now some will likely disagree with me but one of the very worst things anyone could do is polish with a power buffer or even by hand in circles ,
this will eventually lead to crows foot and other imperfections.

I ALWAYS polish along the line of the panel, ie Nose to windscreen front to rear along the line of the bonnet.
The Side Panels the same parallel to the ground.
The reason behind this you don't scratch the base in circles and it is much less likely to develop weird scratches and that of course creates horrid reflections and can make the car look shabby pretty quick.

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i will disagree with the power buffer statement - you wont get this done by hand. but you're are probably confusing polishing with waxing in which case straight lines are ok

AccordBeforeandAfter.png

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As a past painter I have never used a power buffer or polisher. but that's was my experience in the 80's :P

A good cutting polish 1 or 2 anything courser might give you issues

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Disagree with the power buffer statement too. If you use a dual action random orbital polisher for your polishing, you should end up with a swirl and scratch free paint surface, it's foolproof. Rotary polishers are the dangerous tools in the hands of the unexperienced.

Edited by tiddyd
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Re: Bowden's Own

I've bought a few of their products just to see if they are any good and to support an Aussie business.

Seems to be on pretty much on par with the other off the shelf gear, they only used to sell at Autobarn but slightly cheaper now at Supercheap. The carwash and wheel cleaner are good, the tar remover is very good but tyre shine was pretty average. Very watery and leaked out of the bottle when I forgot to close the sprayer tip, something that never happened to any other product I've had so far.

I don't seem to have any of their products last long, just get used up pretty quickly so the value isn't quite there, plus they lag behind in some areas, like no paint correction products, or sealants/coatings. The quick detailer also smells like window cleaner (ammonia) so I'm a bit suss about the formulation.

Edited by junkie
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I've only used their clay bar and car wash, which I thought were reasonably good.

I brought a whole bunch of stuff from WAXIT but somehow forgot wax/sealant, can't be bothered waiting again for delivery so I'm going to try an off the shelf product.

any recommendations?

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Yeah I did that a few years ago. Chrome just had a good clean, the paint was done with clay magic clay bar, menzerna polishes and lake county pads, and finished with optimum spray wax.

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Ok cool looks good. I'm doing the 33 and the accord euro with menzerna polishes but I scraped the off the shelf wax product idea for some poor-boys paint sealant and poor-boys wax, which I've always wanted to try.

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