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R32 Traction Rods?


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I've been looking at these tractions rods for the R32, will they help decrease negative camber on the back wheel and give me more traction?

How easy are they to install?

Does HICAS need to be disabled to run these?

post-20679-1156686001.jpg

Edited by lows_13
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For camber you need the upper wishbone in adjustable form, the one pictured there i believe comes from the front-centre of the subframe and goes to the hub. You need the adjustable piece that goes from the centre-inside to the hub and around your shockabsorber up top to screw in/out rear camber.

What you need for camber adjustment.

post-12828-1156712001.jpg

Hope that makes sense :)

Edited by r33_racer
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To be honest mate i have no accurate answer for that.

My guestimate would be they are some form of rear castor arms. But what they actually do or help do is beyond me. As far as i know on the rear you only have: camber, toe in/out i dont believe there is a rear castor.

Maybe its a drag racing thing or drift thing....maybe its a wank! Maybe someone with more knowledge then me may answer that one :P

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R32/33/34 's have 2 upper rear control arms, both control camber.

One arm is parrallel to the drive shafts, the red R32 arm in the post above

(Note that the R33/34 arm is only one sided, not a complete loop)

The other arm is at a 45 degree angle to the drive shaft, the blue one in the post above.

To properly correct the camber you need both arms.

That's why the Whiteline rear camber kit comes with adjustable bushes for both arms.

In the following picture of R34GTR rear suspension, you can see the 2 upper arms. The inner pivots points (where the Whiteline camber bushes go) are marked with the 4 yellow dots.

R34_GT_R_Rear_Suspension.jpg

:happy: cheers :)

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  • 1 month later...

Diggin up an old thread :P but why do people call this (the one on the first post) the 3rd arm, traction arm? that and quote " can be setup for drift or grip"

If you have the camber arm adjustable aftermarket, is there any need to get the other? would have them both adjustable be better?

Cheers

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  • 2 weeks later...

i was visiting a a mate the other day who said i could buy the arm in the first pic realy cheap as he had brought it then decided to get the hole set with both the upper links and the forward facing traction rods.

i now see why just jap sell it all in a pack as i like many others has been miss led that you only need second one pictured.

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Diggin up an old thread :( but why do people call this (the one on the first post) the 3rd arm, traction arm? that and quote " can be setup for drift or grip"

If you have the camber arm adjustable aftermarket, is there any need to get the other? would have them both adjustable be better?

Cheers

If you only use the upper control arm to adjust camber you will get severe distortion of the traction rod and lowr control arm bushes and they (all 8 of them) will wear out very fast. Plus your wheel aligner will find it very difficult to get the toe settings correct. Worst of all you will end up with bulk bump steer.

Traction rods make no difference to the rear subframe alignment which is what is required to give the adjustment of squat for traction or drift. A rear subframe alignment kit is what is required for that.

D cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
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If you only use the upper control arm to adjust camber you will get severe distortion of the traction rod and lowr control arm bushes and they (all 8 of them) will wear out very fast. Plus your wheel aligner will find it very difficult to get the toe settings correct. Worst of all you will end up with bulk bump steer.

Traction rods make no difference to the rear subframe alignment which is what is required to give the adjustment of squat for traction or drift. A rear subframe alignment kit is what is required for that.

D cheers ;)

Ok - so what dose one use for added traction in a drag scenario?

And whilst i have your attention , who knows the best place to get some et ot Goodyear drag slicks new or used - i cant seem to find any one who has them in stock ?

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corect me if im wrong but the skyline multi link rear end is clasified as a "double a arm",virtual upper a arm"

to get the right amound of angle change there pivot points are seperat.(bit hard to have one moumt where the wheel is mean to be lol. but they are one arm in motion.

so you need to do both for corect arm geometry. other wise it will be like one side of the virtually both being twisted as it goes up and down.

hope that makes some sense.

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