Jump to content
SAU Community

All R33 Auto Owners Please Read

dangerman4

By dangerman4,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

dangerman4 Mentor

dangerman4

Posted
Posted

running the auto on a dyno can be a pain.

you either leave it in second and it smokes the wheels,

or you try doing the run in 3rd, and hope it dosent kick back at high revs.

There is a solution..

on the driver side in the engine bay near the radiator.

down near the chassis rail, there are three eletrical plugs.

if you disconnect the brown plug your car will only have 3rd gear.

which is 1 : 1 or 4th in a manual.

make sure you tell the dyno operator that he now only has third and can slowly build up to

about 60kph then give it to it.

it makes dyno time so much smoother and far less stress will be placed on your trans..

i hope this helps a few people.

Darren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136909-all-r33-auto-owners-please-read/
Share on other sites
dangerman4 Mentor

dangerman4

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You dont start at WOT if doing it in second.

what do you mean by this?

i never said you do start at WOT in second.

but im sure a lot of people with more then 200 kws would be spinning the wheels in second.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Dangerman I gather what you mean is you can get high loadings on the engine at low revs without it running up the rev range as it may in 2nd .

I don't run an auto myself but I am curious to know if they have a converter "lock" like NA VL's did (I think) and if so can this be manually achieved (electrically) to get direct drive . Just a thought .

Cheers A .

dangerman4 Mentor

dangerman4

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Dangerman I gather what you mean is you can get high loadings on the engine at low revs without it running up the rev range as it may in 2nd .

I don't run an auto myself but I am curious to know if they have a converter "lock" like NA VL's did (I think) and if so can this be manually achieved (electrically) to get direct drive . Just a thought .

Cheers A .

as most auto owners would know its very hard to tune your car well in second.

by unplugging the brown plug you can then tune all the cruising and off boost part of the map.

as well as ramp it up consistently in the same gear every time.

im not sure about the VL but by removing this plug it disables all gears apart from 3rd which is direct drive.

GTR_STEALTH Proficient

GTR_STEALTH

Posted
Posted
by unplugging the brown plug you can then tune all the cruising and off boost part of the map.

WoW...i didnt know that!

I've spoken to a few that say they will tune my Auto R33 but none have mentioned this....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 677_GTR
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By 677_GTR · Posted

      Hi guys, I’m new to the GTR scene. Picked up an R33 GTR earlier this year that needs a lot of love. I’ve been going through the hot side, changing all the gaskets and while it was all off I managed to score a set of -9s. It still had the stock ceramics so I was pretty happy to get the 2860s.  I live in a small country in the pacific with 0 performance car scene. No dyno’s no performance parts, let alone stock parts for a skyline. I order everything from Australia and do it myself. This means I’ll be running the stock ECU. Maybe down the track I’ll get an aftermarket set up and do a remote tune.  Will the car run -9s on stock tune safely?  I have a very heavy foot so I really hope so 😂   thanks guys   
    • Duncan
      Leaking Rear Subframe Bushing?

      By Duncan · Posted

      perfect, no rush to address the leaking bush then, it's not doing much/anything
    • GTSBoy
      Does RB25DE Neo lower intake work with RB25DET Neo Upper intake manifold?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not sure if it will bolt up, but.... I'm reasonably sure that the ID of the runners is somewhat smaller on the NAs. So it probably wouldn't be a good match at the flange where the top and bottom meet. So that would be a reason to not do it. And the skinny runners would be the bit you're keeping, which would be a reason to no do it. You'd want the big runners if you were doing any work to swap stuff. Why not just use what you've got, like nearly everyone else who has +T'd an NA? You don't need or want the TCS throttle or other stuff that is specifically DET inlet/crossover.
    • TurboTapin
      Leaking Rear Subframe Bushing?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      lol already been put in temporarily 3 years ago
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      Makes sense. For actuators, if the pressure itself isn't adjustable, that would mean I'd need to think about 2 different actuators with 2 different pressures on paper in order for them to work at the same time if the turbos behave differently. So measure the difference in psi needed to move both, and then get an actuator to match that difference. Assuming I cant get rid of it by adjusting the arms.  You're exactly right, never happens in gear 1 or 2. I can occasionally get it in gear 3 if going uphill but its very small. Only ever in 4 and 5. Seems kind of backwards that one of the points of VCAM is faster spool but if it introduces shuffle then it actually slows spool down. 
×
×
  • Create New...