Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Compliance In Sydney Needed


Iron Chef
 Share

Recommended Posts

I need to comply an R33 for a customer in Sydney. If you can do it for $2200 plus tyres, the gig is yours.

Cheers

Kristian

Be careful when getting a compliance workshop to do your car based on price alone - there are a number of workshops out there who will do inferior work or maybe not do all the work required, we have seen this sort of thing before. It's quite possible for them to skip a few steps that will end up causing you trouble when you try to register the car.

Make sure you choose a workshop that has a good reputation and also double check all work yourself afterwards - it shouldn't be necessary with the tight RAWS workshop requirements, but there is a big different between good and bad workshops still.

If price is the biggest issue then make sure of exactly what they will be charging you for - some workshops might quote you $2,500 plus tyres and that is exactly what you will pay - others will offer $2,200 plus tyres but you could end up paying more in the long run for things that might not be included, for example:

DOTARS application fee - $165

GST - it's basic but many do not include it in quotes

brake pads - some will replace regardless and charge ~$400, others will replace only if actually needed

suspension bushes - some workshops will replace things that are not really needed in order to get more $$$

swapping non-standard parts - could be done free from some workshops, others will charge $80/hour

These are all fairly easy things for 'cheap' workshops to add to the price afterwards - just make sure you ask all the right questions and get it in writing if you are not 100% confident.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers for the heads up Craig - I have been burnt like this before with an R34 compliance workshop in Sydney. I know which questions to ask now :thumbsup: Will edit my first post as necessary...

Edited by vrfour
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
    • Great discussion guys. I just have coil overs in my car right now. Ride is pretty stiff and everything feels very precise and accurate when hitting the corners. I started off with a high level and kept specimen.   the only item I feel I might need to adjust is my camber with control arms or a kit as I might want to tuck in my rims more so there is no rubbing. Otherwise I have not thought too much into it as quite happy with the setup. I think the bushings are all good still.    My motor is currently out now but I have got a nismo front strut bar to install. So that should help with body roll in front.    added a photo of what I started with before the modding or let’s say modernization of parts started. 😂
    • Thank you both, much appreciated. Yes, 6k miles, not a typo lol. The underside, engine bay, engine, trunk, interior, etc., look great and super clean, has all the splash guards too. Not sure if you can expand the photos, but the dash pic shows the ODO. She looks brand new, inside and out, even has the original Nissan TV/DVD/Nav head unit; still thinks it's in Tokyo haha! I used to own a '94 MKIV Supra, sadly sold it years ago, but wow I love the Skyline so much! The R34 gets SO much attention here since they just became legal to import last year.  
×
×
  • Create New...