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Stock Gts-t...which Mods?


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ok, im getting my stock 33 gts-t (auto :D) soon.

it will be my first car. and i was wondering what mods you guys recommend to start off with?

since ill have to pay back the loan, i dont wanna spend heaps and heaps of cash and have the fastest car in the world or something like that. lol. like a quick car, that sounds nice...

but yeh, what do you guys say? (yes i am a newbie)

cheers

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Get a full exhaust that's not too loud, shift kit the auto and then see where you want to go from there. You should probably set out a power goal and work towards that either in stages or save to do it all at once.

Personally I am chasing about 250rwkw which I will hopefully achieve in the next month or so with the parts that I have accumulated and on order. I also have a R33 GTS-T auto (series 1.5).

Remember any money you spend on it is gone and as long as you are ok with that start shoveling the money into the pit.

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If you are pretty cashed out with loan repayments and you are only just getting the car now then I reccomend doing absolutely nothing for the next 3 months until you have ensured the car is up to date with it's servicing. You may require a trans service as well as changing the fluids all round, this will cost a few dollars. The time will allow things to hopefully show thier faces, and if you aren't mechanically clued in then a first time visit to a workshop to have the car checked over is a smart move too.

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My advice would be full exhaust from the turbo back a higher flowing panel filter or pod whichever you prefer (if you do go the pod route you need to rig up some form of CAI) and a bleed valve. wind it up to 10psi and enjoy that!

Chris

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silly lankan, meaning silly sri-lankan? hehe. nah man, if ur cars bob stock, you mite wanna do these depending on ur budget:

* pod filter/panel filter

* turbo back exhaust

*some sort of boost controller. a mechanical one shud be fine, running a safe 10psi

* front mount intercooler or a better flowing sidemount

given these mods u shud feel a strong increase in power

:D

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if your car is close to 100K's then do the 100K service first. Then spend the next 3 months just driving around seeing if anything go's wrong. If nothing go's wrong then go stage 1 of around 180 - 200RWKW

Turbo Back Zorst

Cat

Boost to 10Psi

FMIC

Fuel Pump

Pod with CAI

Good Luck

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I am also a silly lankan,

I also have a R33 Auto with some mods,

Ive got (performance wise)

At the moment apexi N1 3.5 catback exhuast (plan to turn it into a turbo back soon) Which is pretty quite and sounds great when u push it.

R34 GTT side mount cooler - bigger core and better flow then the stock R33 cooler without needing new piping etc (lots of good things on this mod on a lot of SAU posts if you do a search)

Turbosmart Bleed valve running 10PSI - wouldnt want to run anymore than this (most of the time you wont be able to anyway due to fuel cut from the factory ECU)

K&N pod filter - i should really heat sheild this.

those mods havnt cost me a arm and a leg as i bought the exhuast and cooler 2nd hand and the car is pretty quick, around 170 RWkw's

The auto box's on the R33's can handle a bit of power without needing to be modified, anything upto 190 to 200 rwkw's.

Another quick note i might add is (now this is argubale) i find that the best wheel size to get the power down around the kw's rating i have is 17's with 225's or 235's at the back. it doesnt matter how much kw's you have, if you cant get the power down then its pointless.

I personally think the best way to get the most out of your car is to maintain it really well, that means doing ur servicing regularly (every 5K's in my case) with good quality products and follow proper warm up and warm down procedures (although this is a given for most turbo cars i thought id add in that since you said your new to the scene)

I also find that some fuels make the car run 'better' then others (and again this is argubale but im just posting MY opinion) i fidnt hat Vortex 98 is the best for MY car. (lots of threads and opinions on fuels through out the forums)

The next mods i plan to do is a split dump pipe / front pipe and a high flow cat (as mentioned before) and then wack on a SAFC (hopefully 2 or a Neo) and get it tuned and i think i'll stop there....though i always say that. It never ends...

Edited by dineth
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awesome info guys, really appreciate it.

dineth, my fellow silly lankan lol, your mods, how much did it all set you back?

also, haivng a aftermarket cooler with all the piping, roughly how much?

thanks

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awesome info guys, really appreciate it.

dineth, my fellow silly lankan lol, your mods, how much did it all set you back?

also, haivng a aftermarket cooler with all the piping, roughly how much?

thanks

exhuast around 500 (But this was like 2 years ago, im sur eu could get it for cheaper now)

GTT cooler (got it 2nd hand for like 180 fairly recently)

If you want a Front Mount, depending on the brand you could prob get the piping and cooler now for like $400+ (dont quote me on that) or so, but you gotta be careful not to get a shit front mount cos there is a fair few cheapo ones around that wont cool all that well...better to spend some money and get a decent /reputable one. I hear the hybrid ones are pretty good for the price. but this is not from personal experince.

THe K&N pod and braket i got for like 70 bucks brand new

and the bleed valve was bought from ebay like 3 years ago for $80 but their a lot cheaper now, should be able to pick up a good one from here for like 30 bucks. I remb there was a post from a guy who made a awsome homemade bleed valve with great reviews.

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oh mint as.

who installed it all for you? where about you from? i think ill get it all done by my mums sill lankan mechanic haha very cheap and you can be sure 100% that they will do such a good job

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Personally I think a bleed valve is a waste of time. Get a manual boost controller or a complete EBC. You can get a manual boost controller that shouldn't spike and hold boost well for around $30.

The JustJap FMIC are pretty good for $345. I got the same kit with a tube and fin instead of bar and plate core.

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