Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Rebuild Advice


rb25_gtst
 Share

Recommended Posts

Well first of all I will apologize if I have posted yet another rebuild topic, but I haven't had time to search the forums for the appropriate post.

Ok, well I have a 95 R33 gts-t with 160,000kms which is lightly modified, nothing spectacular.

It makes 186kw on 12psi and I am definitely chasing more but before I can go further I'm convinced my motor needs to be rebuilt.

My question is this. How much for parts & labour and roughly how long will the rebuild process take as it is my only means of transportation and I don't want to take too much time off work. Also any engine rebuilders that you wish to recommend I would appreciate it.

I am only looking to achieve around 250rwkw, so any rebuild kit that is capable of that kind of power and still be reliable would be fine.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Our rebuilds have taken from 2 weeks to 3 months depending on what parts you want to put in the motor and if you are going to get balancing done and that sort of thing as most of the time parts need to be sent off to other places :D ???

If you are going for a stock rebuild shouldn't be to expensive and wont take long but if you are going to upgrade parts well depend what you want to do...

I would ring around some workshops and get prices and go from there might not know what you need till you open the motor up?? >_<

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I dunno about the previous owner but in my care it has not been neglected or abused.

Ok, well I'm not absolutely 100% positive the engine needs to be rebuilt but I don't want to spend the money on a bigger turbo, injecters etc to increase the power just to have the motor explode.

So my aim is to just buy some forged pistons and rods, new bearings,head gasket, cams, cam gears and have the crankshaft balanced etc..etc and just pay someone to disassemble and reassemble it, and of course tune it.

After all that, then add the turbo.

I'm going to have the engine compression tested next week and I'll let you know the result.

My main reason for concern about the engine is that after Advan installed and tuned the Power FC, knock levels were consistently high, was possibly leaning out, don't have an AFR gauge. So we had to disconnect the E-Boost and put it back to standard, runs fine now, but slow.

Also just wondering what you guys think of the X-Force low mount manifolds, I have one on my car now which has warped and is leaking although it didn't sit perfectly on the head to begin with. And if you're wondering why they put it on my car in the first place if it didn't sit right is beucase upon removal of the standard one they broke every stud and they were stuck in the standard manifold and couldn't re-use it without more labour which I didn't want to pay for.

Yeah so.. that's the kind of rebuild I'm after. I would probably even settle for genuine nissan parts.

Thanks for readin'

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get the compression test done (and a leak down test if you want peace of mind), then decide if you need the rebuild. Both tests should give a good indication of the condition of your motor.

If you're currently getting high levels of knock, then it's probably the result of poor tuning, probably running too much boost and your stock injectors maxing out. Given that the car is fine on lower levels of boost, I'd say it's less likely that there's something wrong with your motor.

I'd recommend that you go back to your tuner and get them to adjust the tune before you do some damage and end up melting a piston - you'll then need a rebuild if that happens. It's not unusual to have to get a tuner to make small adjustments after an initial tune as they can't simulate all driving conditions on a dyno.

My car has 280rwkw+ on standard internals for quite a while now and hasn't missed a beat. I wouldn't recommend wasting money on a rebuild if you don't need to unless you're chasing well over 300rwkw.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ECR033 is right. I have similar power to him with standard internals, and I track my car.

Your problems seem to be tune related, and this business about not fixing the exhaust manifold properly because you didn't have enough money seems really silly.... If you have enough money for a rebuild, you have enough money to fix the exhaust manifold.

If it's warped, then it's leaking, and that'll cause you some issues.

Just get a leakdown test and compression test done. If all's good spend the money on fixing up that exhaust manifold, buying a new turbo and getting it tuned properly. You should easily get to 250rwkW and not have any issues with the engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At the time I didn't have the money but now I have a credit card!, which is going to pay for all the components, as for the manifold I'm gonna get another one under warranty.

For my next tune I think I'll go to SAS, I've heard good things.

What mods did you guys use to achieve 250+kw wilch & ECR033???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...or thereabouts :)

Engine's still going strong too.

Dropped 10rwkW at the last dyno day due to a dodgey thermostat and a blocked radiator (pfc retard maps @ 100degrees celcius... bah!). It's been back to normal for a while now. woohoo :(

See you've got two options Craig (if the leak down and compression comes back aok), do what ECR and I did, or rebuild and end up with around about 220rwkW and an engine that can put out over 300rwkW if you add $6k to the $15k you would have already spent rebuilding the engine.

15k+6k = a straight 32 GTR that may need a rebuild within a year....

Lots of sums to do, lots of things to consider.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the input guys... and so promptly too.

If the compression & leak down tests show that the engine is fine, how many more K's should I expect to get out of it before it does require a rebuild?? (Currently at 160,XXX).

And worst case scenario, the tests reveals the worst. Do you think I could get away with just replacing the bearings, rods & pistons and leaving the rest as it is provided the other stuff is ok?? Maybe adding some adjustable cam gears if I get credit card happy.

Also, I'm going to Just Jap today to get my manifold replaced under warranty, you guys know anyone/anyplace that could install it for a reasonable price and is available soonish.

Thanks again everyone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Treat it right, keep it properly tuned and regularly serviced, and don't thrash it at EVERY SINGLE opportunity and it should last for ages (not sure how many kays, though, sorry).

There is a Stagea owner here who also owns an R30 Skyline that has done over 350,000kms with (as far as I know) the original L-series motor. Nissan engineering is pretty sturdy, so there's no reason you couldn't expect to at least reach 200,000 at a minimum if you treat it right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What mods did you guys use to achieve 250+kw wilch & ECR033???

If you look one post above Wilch's mods in the link below, you'll see my mods.

Make sure you don't forget to factor in labour costs when budgeting your mods...labour is a huge component of the total cost.

Like Goldzilla said, if you service your car regularly, the tune is good and you don't drive like a tool, then there's no reason why the motor won't last for a long while yet provided that it's in good condition at the moment.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...