Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


4 Wheel Dyno Kw And Rear Wheel Dyno Kw


PhilGTR
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I got my car dynoed again today and I just want to try and clarify the difference between rwkw's and 4wkw's on GTR's.

The last time I got it done on a rwd dyno and it came up as 253rwkw at UAS.

Today I have the same mods as last time but just adjusted the boost response i made 257kw @ all 4 wheels at CRD.

Now Jim at CRD said to me the difference between rwd and 4wd is around 30kw give or take and that sounds a bit too much to me. When i tested my car today, it felt like maybe at max an extra 10-15kw at the wheels difference(but thats just my judgement). I also read somewhere here people were saying around 4% difference between 4wd and rwd for r32gtr's.

Also last time my stock injector duty cycle at full power were at around 80-82%.

Now Jim reckons I wont be able to make anymore power safely because of my injectors maxing out which I assume would at least be 90% plus? But need to confirm this later.

Stock injectors max out at around 280rwkws or so?? So does this make sense to assume its around a 4-5% loss between rwd and 4wd? Opinions wanted please!

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Talked briefly to Mark at Hills motorsports Castlehill the other day and he said he sees 20-25 kw difference in RWKW and AWKW.

He has a 4WD dyno dynamics dyno by the way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had my car dynoed at Melbourne Autosalon in both RWD and AWD within a span of 24 hours of each other and no changes were made to either the dyno or the car except for the removal of the driveshaft.

In AWD, my car made 604awkw and in RWD, the car made 617rwkw.

Regardless of how the dyno was configured intially, all the settings for both the dyno and the car remained the same. The only thing which changed was the ambient temperature and humidity in the Melbourne Exhibition Building which would be considered as negligable.

Hope this info helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.gtrusablog.com/2018/04/split-twin-turbo-pipes-by-alex.html https://www.gtrusablog.com/2013/01/divided-rb26-twin-turbo-pipe.html Cheap mod, doesn't hurt to try
    • Your stuff look much better than the original stuff I used on my tri-y headers, which didn't survive the swap, that did work OK though, but currently the headers are only ceramic coating, which, while it is meant to be the bees knees, it really only reduces temps by "not alot" and is more for protecting the mild steel pipes The new stuff is meant to maintain an "air gap" which "apparently" helps the insulation LOL In other news I'm taking it into Autotech next week for them to have a look at the RaceTCS, the spot where I want it, and the program "thingie" that is on my lap top computa which you would know as it is basically the same thing as your Racelogic  I'm really keen to get this fitted  
    • OK, a couple of questions arise. Are you suggesting that you want to swap to the S2 ECU so that you can Nistune it? Because....none of the R33 ECUs can be Nistuned. What would an ATESSA controller do to help? You have no ATESSA. Beyond that, the S1 and S2 ECU pinouts are nearly identical, as far as I can remember. A quick look around on SAU yields the following for S1. As I said, almost all of it is identical. I think there might be a few changes around the AFM and the ECCS relay, not much else. There's not functionally anything particularly different between a manual and auto ECU pinout. Can run a manual engine on an auto ECU quite trivially, for example.
    • Hey guys Was recently replacing the water pump and timing belt. Came across one of the washers for the timing gear and balancer were bent. Just wondering how that would of happened
×
×
  • Create New...