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Stupid Attesa!


PranK
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Hi Guys,

I need some help diagnosing my Attesa problem.

It all started a few months ago when I fitted a field ETS controller in my series 3 R33 GTR. It seemed to work ok for a little while but then the '4WD' and 'ABS' lights came on not long after starting the car, they would stay off until the car started moving, at which stage the Torque Split gauge would also stop working (or was working, but no torque to the front wheels). The GTR was never run in 100/0 and only as far as 30/70 so I am pretty sure the transfer case is ok. The ABS works fine, but the car steps out and doesnt recover when I change hard, so 4WD is not working. I took the controller out and triple checked all connections, now the ABS light is out but the 4WD light is on permanently and is definately in 2WD (thats easy to check).

What are my next steps for diagnosis? I havent checked for any fault codes, but then I would assume there wouldnt be any as the Attesa has a seperate computer so its fault codes wont go through the consult port. I am not sure what else to check, I was going to get a sparky to rewire up the ECU to make sure its not that (and to get it properly done anyway).

Any help would be great!!

Christian

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Hi Guys,

I need some help diagnosing my Attesa problem.

It all started a few months ago when I fitted a field ETS controller in my series 3 R33 GTR. It seemed to work ok for a little while but then the '4WD' and 'ABS' lights came on not long after starting the car, they would stay off until the car started moving, at which stage the Torque Split gauge would also stop working (or was working, but no torque to the front wheels). The GTR was never run in 100/0 and only as far as 30/70 so I am pretty sure the transfer case is ok. The ABS works fine, but the car steps out and doesnt recover when I change hard, so 4WD is not working. I took the controller out and triple checked all connections, now the ABS light is out but the 4WD light is on permanently and is definately in 2WD (thats easy to check).

What are my next steps for diagnosis? I havent checked for any fault codes, but then I would assume there wouldnt be any as the Attesa has a seperate computer so its fault codes wont go through the consult port. I am not sure what else to check, I was going to get a sparky to rewire up the ECU to make sure its not that (and to get it properly done anyway).

Any help would be great!!

Christian

hi Christian

the attessa fault codes are done with an led in the attessa computer box in the boot under the parcel shelf on the passenger side. For example 3 flashes is right rear wheel rotation sensor fault [my gtr gets that code lately and both abs and 4wd light come on and no front torque at all].btw my car is r32 so i assume the 33 to be the same setup, you need to check for a code before you turn off the ignition because it resets at the next power up.

hope this helps

keith

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he has already removed the controller.

Also check simple things like is there fluid in the resevoir? and of course the fault codes are the place to start. I'm not 100% sure where the ATTESA computer is on 33, but in 32 it's under the rear parcel shelf, and the LED is visible on it.

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Did you have a new clutch put in it recently? If yes the probably didn't bleed it . Try bleeding the system , you will only need 1 lt of ATF max .

No, nothing has happened really. I recently put in a sump baffle, but the problem was being experienced before that.

I went down today to check the flashes, I could see 2 but there may have been more if i wasn't quick enough from the keys to the boot, so I'll get my wife to do it later. Is there a list of what the flashes mean?

Thanks guys

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No, nothing has happened really. I recently put in a sump baffle, but the problem was being experienced before that.

I went down today to check the flashes, I could see 2 but there may have been more if i wasn't quick enough from the keys to the boot, so I'll get my wife to do it later. Is there a list of what the flashes mean?

Thanks guys

Was the engine removed to fit the sump baffle? If yes was it removed with the g/box? What i'm saying is if the rear pipe that goes in the back of the box was undone the system would get air in it and you must bleed it ...

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No, we dropped the subframe off the bottom, the gearbox and engine stayed in.

Cool mate, still it will pay you to check and bleed it, it will only take a few minutes then you can put that to rest and look elsewhere.

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sorry to bumjack the thread, but how long did it take to drop the subframe and fit the baffles with engine and gbox in situ? I've thought about doing it that way before. :laugh:

I can't see how thy did it without removing/dropping the g/box Richo, how did they get to the 4 m6 bolts at the rear of the sump? You can't see them unless you drop it, the bellhousing covers them !!!

To be honest even if they split the box they will be very hard to get to unless they removed the clutch and flywheel ....

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you make a strong case! I've tried to think of an easy way to remove sump but sadly i keep coming back to gearbox off, engine out.

I'm guessing they seperated the box from the engine but left it pretty much in place. But as you say it would still be hard to get at the bolts with the flywheel there.

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you make a strong case! I've tried to think of an easy way to remove sump but sadly i keep coming back to gearbox off, engine out.

I'm guessing they seperated the box from the engine but left it pretty much in place. But as you say it would still be hard to get at the bolts with the flywheel there.

When ever I done it before I removed the engine+ box as one unit as I don't have a hoist at home I couldn't be stuffed trying to leave the box behind then trying to re-install it on the floor . I usually do other things as well though while the assembly is out, maybe a clutch, turbos, etc...

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Yeah we split the engine and box and then just used a 1/4 drive with a long extension to get up in there. Wasn't too bad. I reckon much easier than pulling it out.

Christian

Easier no but less work of course ..

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