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I Have Been Bitten By The Power Bug!


QRI05E
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After getting taught a lesson by a mildly modded R32 GTR the other day, I have been itching for some big power LOL My aim is a mid to low 12 sec pass... im aiming for 250 - 270rw/kw however would like to maintian a stockish look to the engine bay therefore no high mount manifolds.... Now i can save heaps by self installing most of these and by buying them from nengun and group buys...

Here is my shopping list so far:

- SARD 600cc Injectors

- Walbro intank 500HP Fuel Pump

- Hybrid FMIC Kit

- HALTEC ECU + Tune ($2800 quoted inc Fit & Tune) Note: No AFM Required

- Sliding Performance High Flow Turbo

Now here is the hard question that has been answered and covered 100 times... what is the best "Bolt-On" turbo for the RB25DET to utilize the stock manifold and dump and also provide maximum average power and reponse?

I have look at all the RB25 Upgrade threads and it seems bang for buck, the highflow is the way to go althought they do max out at approx 250rw/kw... the Garrett GT3040 is only about $1300 and can produce close to 300rw/kw but from my understanding a high mount manifold, new dump and IC piping is needed??

Any help wpuld be great..

Regards,

Sarkis

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After getting taught a lesson by a mildly modded R32 GTR the other day, I have been itching for some big power LOL My aim is a mid to low 12 sec pass... im aiming for 250 - 270rw/kw however would like to maintian a stockish look to the engine bay therefore no high mount manifolds.... Now i can save heaps by self installing most of these and by buying them from nengun and group buys...

Here is my shopping list so far:

- SARD 600cc Injectors

- Walbro intank 500HP Fuel Pump

- Hybrid FMIC Kit

- HALTEC ECU + Tune ($2800 quoted inc Fit & Tune) Note: No AFM Required

- Sliding Performance High Flow Turbo

Now here is the hard question that has been answered and covered 100 times... what is the best "Bolt-On" turbo for the RB25DET to utilize the stock manifold and dump and also provide maximum average power and reponse?

I have look at all the RB25 Upgrade threads and it seems bang for buck, the highflow is the way to go althought they do max out at approx 250rw/kw... the Garrett GT3040 is only about $1300 and can produce close to 300rw/kw but from my understanding a high mount manifold, new dump and IC piping is needed??

Any help wpuld be great..

Regards,

Sarkis

Have a look on unique autosports web page garrett 3040 direct bolton to standard manifold had one on my r33 made 250rwkw

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When i was looking for a turbo the best one which i came across was a HKS GTRS, its around 2.6k but it comes with oil and water lines and is a DIRECT BOLT ON to your standard manifold, intake pipe (which you'll more than likely make up again cos of the ecu) and straight to the standard style dump pipe. Its made for a rb25det.

I didn't buy one (stupid me) cos i thaught it was a bit pricey but the turbo i baught ended up buying GT2876R cost me just as much as this one wouldhave if i went with this cos of the oil and water lines, dump pipe and all the little bits and peices that had to be made again, this turbo has proberly the best torque and power curve to 250kw i've seen on a dyno and every tuner brags about em. Comes on boost hard and fast. Have a think dude cos the turbo choice is the stepping stone to where your car is heading.

My 2 cents...

Quick edit... link to this turbo is http://www.nengun.com/forced-induction/hks/turbo-kit-gt-rs

Best research all avenues prior to spending $$ (i've learnt my lesson the hard way)

Edited by R33HVN
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My aim is a mid to low 12 sec pass... im aiming for 250 - 270rw/kw however would like to maintian a stockish look to the engine bay therefore no high mount manifolds....

I have look at all the RB25 Upgrade threads and it seems bang for buck, the highflow is the way to go althought they do max out at approx 250rw/kw... the Garrett GT3040 is only about $1300 and can produce close to 300rw/kw but from my understanding a high mount manifold, new dump and IC piping is needed??

1) You'll EASILY make a mid 12 with 200-220rwkw, its all about decent tyres

2) GCG is the BEST you can buy for bolt on

3) A GT3040 for $1300 ??? Is it second hand, because they are around the $1600/1700 mark usually and the new internally gated version is more expensive again @ a price of over $2000.

You can low mount it, but need new I/C piping, dumps etc etc etc. And external gate if your choosing that version.

IMO - GCG hi-flow, decent tyres and you'll be into the 11's. Although $2800 for an ECU is mighty expensive... i'd look at other alternatives

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Insufficient info again Ash. If you must try to help people at least be thorough.

Tyres, suspension, driver skill.....meh the list goes on.

A GTR with exhaust, adjustable reg and 1bar of boost on the stock computer pulls around 250-260rwkw

I don't think there is any value in trying to drag one, but certainly racing one on the circuit is achievable. Make the races 10 lappers and his tyres will be gone off long before yours.

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Hardly insufficient Geoff :O

A mid 12 sec pass with 250rwkw is probably nearing on totally achieveable regardless of the many variables.

I mean, one assumes that Sarkis isnt the worlds worst driver, and that he will learn while he is racing so he will get better.

Which will add to a reasonable crack at a very realistic target.

Of course if he was chasing that extra 2-10ths then suspension will help etc etc. But i dont think we are going that far here

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i agree that it is all about driver skill and tyres. my mechanic has a stock sr20 powered sigma (weighs about the same as a silvia). it just has a cooler, exhaust and 15psi on the stock turbo. he ran a 12.56 @ 106mph, and a 12.9 with a broken axle. his 60ft times are usually in the 1.6 to 1.8 range.

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Sounds good fellas thanks... i think a GCG Highflow seems the way to go although the Sliding Performance's highflow prices and specs looks mighty tempting...

Ill keep an eye out for an APEXi PFC although frpm what i been told the HALTEC would be a better ECU especially for later massive power builds (350+ rw/kw) and requires no AFM...

Cheers

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Ok guys, i have been doing massive amounts of reading regarding plain Vs ball bearing turbos and it seems the GCG Highflow comes in first with the Sliding Performance Highflow nipping at its heels... I personally think that if your going to something, you might as well do it right from the begining... therefore ill stick to ball bearing turbos

Are there anyother altrnative DIRECT bolt on turbo that will push little more power than the GCG highflow? 270 - 280rw/kw?

Regards,

Sarkis

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Ok guys, i have been doing massive amounts of reading regarding plain Vs ball bearing turbos and it seems the GCG Highflow comes in first with the Sliding Performance Highflow nipping at its heels... I personally think that if your going to something, you might as well do it right from the begining... therefore ill stick to ball bearing turbos

Are there anyother altrnative DIRECT bolt on turbo that will push little more power than the GCG highflow? 270 - 280rw/kw?

Regards,

Sarkis

Wats the price range your looking at spending on the turbo itself dude?

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Just to determine if you are falling victim to some misconceptions I have added some info I put in another thread. This is my opinion as an Engineer.

The difference between bush and ball bearing from an engineering perspective is very little in terms of performance, however a bush will wear slightly faster than a ball bearing. In operation they both run on a film of oil so there is zero wear, but at startup or switch off the bush will spend a miniscule amount of time with the metal surfaces contacting. Taken over a very long period of time the wear adds up, but consider that the stock GTR32/33 turbos are bush and many are still running strong today there is really nothing to worry about if you take the time to warm up and switch off with some thought for the mechanical components of your car. Any bearing can be destroyed with lack of lubrication or lack of mechanical sympathy.

Many also consider that a BB will spool faster, but this is mostly due to newer technologies used to lighten the rotating parts of the turbos with BB and not any specifics of the BB vs bush system, while most bush systems have remained static development wise for quite some time.

Finally, a highflow still looks exactly the same externally when visually inspected so remains technically completely legal. So for a stock looking setup the value for money remains with the bush bearing at about half the cost of the BB, and that is exactly the direction I have taken.

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Power FC can do 350+ rwkw - just change the AFM to a Q45.

Haltech are good though - E11V2 $2275 is RRP plus tune sounds about right to me !

But you will be pushing an RB25 - better to get an RB3o bottom end. (for your 350+)

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Thanks for that Geoff, i ALWAYS warm up and cool down my car anyway so the Sliding Performance Highflow is yet looking better again hehe... i just want to be making the right choice... i would love to only spend $900 on the highflow but id the GCG is MUCH better, then ill spend the $1800 cause i want reliability + performance... while maintaining a stockish look cause this is an every day car..

Any Dyno graphs with the Sliding Performance Highflow on an RB25???

Cheers

Edited by QRI05E
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One aspect of the GCG BB RB25 Hi Flow is that they seem to hold their resale value quite well .

You can go one of a couple of ways here namely price biased or performance (not to say you can't have both) but getting what you want can be compromised . In my biased opinion I would spend the dough on the BB Hi flow and save some with an Apexi PFC/Boost cont kit . The fact that both are designed to be pretty much bolt/plug in means less in the way of fiddly one off expensive bits to fit them . This is where you save a motza at times .

Turbos . As others said the Hi flows based on the std RB25 turbo go back in and look std so difficult for the constabulary to question . Non std looking but effective would be R33 GTST specific 2530/GT-RS/GT2835 Pro S .

ECU's . PFC makes things simple in my book , MAF sensor no disadvantage if you use the right sized one .

Out of time cheers A .

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Cheers for that discopotato... the GCG/sliding performance highflow seems like the way to go and then when im ready for the BIG power ie full rebuild, i can consider a larger turbo... but for street use, the highflow method seems like the way to go...

Regards,

Sarkis

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post-10771-1166083971.jpg

Thanks for that Geoff, i ALWAYS warm up and cool down my car anyway so the Sliding Performance Highflow is yet looking better again hehe... i just want to be making the right choice... i would love to only spend $900 on the highflow but id the GCG is MUCH better, then ill spend the $1800 cause i want reliability + performance... while maintaining a stockish look cause this is an every day car..

Any Dyno graphs with the Sliding Performance Highflow on an RB25???

Cheers

here ya go. This power was made on the max oversize slide hi-flow with a VG30 rear :)

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Of course if he was chasing that extra 2-10ths then suspension will help etc etc. But i dont think we are going that far here
Suspension will get you alot more than that! :)

I regard suspension to be one of the most important features for a drag car. A 2wd car setup for circuit is crap for drags, just look at my car.

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