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Auto Electrician - Need One Possibly?


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OK weird question. I suck with electrics :laugh: Anyways, Did a RB20DET change after I blew my last one. I used a well known WA shop Mechanic who is extremely knowledgeable but I don't wish to let his name out. Slight problem, he was in a rush to take someone somewhere, and with my new battery, stickers covered - & +. Anyway, it was put in back to front (Completly accidental careless mistake). We though we had fried the LumpyROM but turns out it was the Ignitor Module. Anyway, I fixed it and drove sweet for 8 weeks. Sunday morning the car shutdown, and I had fried a battery. Now I'm wondering if my Alternator may have fried from the battery incedent? There has been no problems cutting out/starting it up. Headlights stay the same (but have replaced bulbs). Dash lights at night fade and flicker, indicators stay solid, RMP needle bounces off redline at like 3rpm and CD deck cuts out and comes back on. When I hit boost, it's like it chugs and starves for fuel. Could this be the alternator? I have a untuned ECU I know, but still shouldn't be cutting short. Just wondering as the light will come on for a flat battery, but won't if it's overcharging! Anyone got any idea's what could be going on?

Cheers, Jason

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You my have blown the diodes in the rectifier plate. Easiest way to tell what its doing is start the car up wack a multimeter on it and see if its charging, look for 13.8-14.2 volts. If its not charging id look for a replacement as finding parts could be difficult.

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Just an idea,but to me if you had done damage after the battery incident it would of played up then not 8 weeks later... I've had very similar symptoms like the ones you describe on euro cars & 90% of the time its an earth problem-check the earth wire from block to chassis,maybe it has worked loose after the engine swap or check the battery leads for heat damage,as high resistance in the leads can cause trouble...

Hope this helps! :O

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