Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register

Exhaust Manifold Studs


Recommended Posts

hey guys i am currently in quite a situation, with christmas comming close i need to fix my car, i blew my exhaust manifold gasket not long ago and i found that a couple of studs are broken, does anyone know how to take them out also does anyone know someone who can do it? as i dunno how to take broken studs out.

also, where to get a exhaust manifold stud set from?

thanks, phill


Edited by LTHLRB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

All good mechanics can do it easily.

Just punch stud, drill, insert "easy-out", remove :/

Lenish the face (using a large and decent, bench belt sander) of manifold to remove any "bow", as this will cause more studs to break

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so drill a smallish hole and then just twist it out when their broken?

i am a mechanic, but i have never done these before so i am not confident, the mechanic who is helpin me is very busy and doesnt even have time to check my car.

whats easy out? lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so drill a smallish hole and then just twist it out when their broken?

i am a mechanic, but i have never done these before so i am not confident, the mechanic who is helpin me is very busy and doesnt even have time to check my car.

whats easy out? lol

"Easy-out": Is the name of a tool, is available in various sizes to suit various sized studs. It is like a Tapping tool but with a reverse thread that stops half way. You drill a correct size hole, "tap" the easy-out (turn in a reverse thread), once the easy-out bottoms out on the stud it starts to unwind the stud out of the thread.

Detail Report: :/

- Use a centre punch to carefully make a dent in the centre of the broken stud

- Carefully drill into the stud, using an adequately sized drill bit. Make sure the drill bit goes in straight and square.

- Tap in easy-out and remove stud.

Due to the confinement of the engine bay, this is ALOT harder than how it reads, but is done on a daily basis by all good mechanics

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Posts

    • Done few measures to work out how I'm going to fit the Thermotec Exhaust Jackets to my headers, the kit comes with 8 steel zip ties and 80 clips, enough sleeve to cover each primary 600mm(24"), thus having a clip every 75mm. I test fit one of the primaries, the sleeve covers my 1 7/8 primaries well, and when the clips are on (I didnt use the clips, I used some small stationary fold back clips), there isn't any gaps which is nice. Looks the goods so far. Just need time to do final fit up, and then take it for the typical "smokey drive" until the sleeves "cook off" the manufacturing residue like the normal heat wrap smoke show. The hard part is covering the No1 primary on the 4:1 headers that obviously is bolted to the car and ducks behind the other primaries, I assume I'll be laying on my back playing "elastic man" with my arms Also purchased a few electrical glands to run the RaceTCS wiring thru my firewall as I cannot see a neat and easy way to jam the cables through any existing "holes", 3 x 16mm glands to suit 5-10mm cable, the CAT6 cable is 5.5mm and the 2 ten cores are just on 9.5mm, tight enough to keep the moisture and engine bay fumes out. They will hopefully fit on the firewall on the passenger side without to much fuss, I've had a quick look, but there will be alot more looking before the 16mm holesaw gets to to play. I'm still waiting on a rough quote from Autotech for the actual termination into the PCM and ABS modules, whilst the actual job isn't rocket science I would prefer to "pay cash" to someone with more wiring skills and proper tools for the job than me. My wiring skills stop at buying the wiring, the Deutsch connectors, drilling the holes in the firewall, and fitting the glands, any more could result in fire, or possibly bay windows in the block. Why am I drill holes, I need to feed in 1 x CAT6 from the ABS module into the cabin, and 2 x 10 core, 1 x 10 core of 8 injector out, and 2 earths, and 1 for 8 injector  in for the injector interceptor wiring and a power. I will be heading into Autotech to get approval for my cunning plan. So many coloured wires and tapping into to ABS and PCM makes Mark's head hurt......... I pay cash now..
    • https://www.jdmgarage.com.au/shop/engine/engine-accessories/oil-caps/genuine-r32-gtr-oil-cap-15255-d5501/ That says non neo rb25, I just though maybe it didn't clear the plastic cover or something 
    • Now with a fresh alignment, a lot less toe in at the rear now as it's no longer needed (subframe offset by 10mm upwards). Front toe touched up and I think I'm some what ready for All Jap Day, which might end up being cancelled due to the rain.
    • 4D table allows you to say have the slider at 0%, 25%, 60%, 80% ethanol as an example, giving you multiple maps if you will. Also removes the need to do arithmetic when you're tuning, no need to go ahh I need to add 11 to my base table cell of 8 to give me 19. I "think" it makes tuning a bit easier, however still yields exactly the same results as using the conventional compensation tables as you and I are both well versed on.
    • We're setting the backlash. "Shouldn't" need to change it as the same front centre, crown wheel and pinion are going back in that came out of it but we will see.
  • Create New...