Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


How To Read This Boost Gauge


PRO AERO
 Share

Recommended Posts

thats a metric guage called Bar

here is a website to convert all sorts of pressures and things

http://www.convertworld.com/en/

most drivers prefer imperial i know i do imperial = PSI

0.5 = 7psi

1.0 = 15 psi (technically its 14.7 but for the sake of easiness)

that website says 1 bar = 14.5 PSI :(

Edited by Madaz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some say its 14.5, others say 14.7. Who bloody knows. I still round it off to 15 though haha

Just to be an anus I'll clarify this 1 :(

14.7 PSI is equal to 1 Atmosphere of pressure

14.5 PSI is equal to 1 Bar of pressure

I used to think Atmosphere & Bar were the same like many other people probably do, but this is not the case.

Edited by JazzaR33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the claification Jazza. Infact anyone with an AVCR, it reads in kg/cm2 which is less again at 14.2psi. So I was running less boost than I thought!

Yeah I hadn't even bothered to find that one out yet, good to know though. I actually like the fact the Japs use all metric measurement (although mmHg was a bit of an odd measurement for boost, thanks Nissan), it's less confusing, I'm just not used to it. Would be good if we all followed suit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For me I like it because everything is easier to calculate with metric stuff. With imperial you have to use coefficients all the time to convert from 1 set of measurements to another, it's old fashioned & out of datem & absolutely mad to still be using it IMO. An example is converting CC's to Litres; divide by 1000, piece of cake. Now try & do the same thing converting cubic inches to Gallons.......

This is only the tip of the iceburg when it comes to how logical the metric system is. The only reason we're not all metric with this stuff is the bloody YANKS & to a lesser degree the POMS, who still cling on to some imperial stuff.

Just about every other country primarily uses metric now days.

Edited by JazzaR33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

but really wether ur boost guage says 14psi or 1 bar you dont sit there converting it if it says 14psi

if mine read 1 bar i would want to know how many psi it is

cause for turbos PSI seems more accurate of how much boost you can make and should tune your turbo to

me ive never been into weather so barimetric pressure means nothing :laugh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just to help clear things up for PRO AERO

The units of measure are: "bar"= Barometric pressure units.

1 Bar = 14.7psi (or so)

psi = "pounds per square inch."

so if a car is running at 0.8 bar, its doing around say 11psi or so but im no good at maths

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That gives us a conversion ratio of 14.50377375, not 14.7 as mentioned before. Can anyone clear up the confusion?

Edited by Howie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Crack pipe coupled with JDM yo coupled with "I know what I got". The only thing missing is old logo Nismo.
    • I am noticing more and more HKS T51 turbos and full kits popping up for sale second hand. People asking $5k plus for turbos and around $10k for a kit which includes turbo, manifold, dump and waste gate. Are these becoming a collectors item or are people hitting some serious gear while typing. I priced up my brand new precision 7685 gen2 as a full kit and even if I go full RRP and include ceramic coating and beanie and oil/water lines, I’m still under $10k.    Am I having a man look and missing something abvious?
    • So, that adventure with hairdryers didn't quite work. It also gave me COVID. So I thought I got a brain cell and remembered to pull a bulb out this time, so the vapor could escape before using a heat gun to get the moisture out. Unfortunately in doing so I melted/marred the lens. _f**k_ So I got a brain cell and took it out of the car, removing the bulbs and let it actually evaporate, and decided to try my best to sand down the headlight to remove the marring. This was reasonably great, and the internet said I could spray some clear over this and get a nice UV resistant protective shine. Sweet. What could go wrong? Above ^-- what can go wrong. This happens if you spray like a retard on a too cold day. For bonus points, the above photo is AFTER it has been sanded down. The cracks are actually embedded into the plastic because it would appear that Acrylic clear actually chemically reacts to the plastic in R34 headlights? f**kin major sads. I then decided to pull the headlight apart, aided by my heat gun, and figured well, it's time to REALLY get sanding. I used these tools for multiple hours, multiple sheets, ranging from 40 grit (yes!!!!! on a power tool) to 2000 grit. Over the course of a few days it resulted in this.... Eventually this actually did work, once I exhausted my sanding I used a Cerakote headlight restoral kit, which came up pretty damn excellent, and by "Excellent" I mean it looked like my other un-molested headlight. But then... the moisture retuuuurned. This time I used science to get the moisture out, as it didn't come out over time by just leaving the headlight open, or as I had hoped - Driving the car with the bulbs removed. Given this opens into my airbox, I would think THE ENGINE would suck the moisture out. Nope. Once dry, I used black sikaflex in the mouldings in an effort to make the damn thing seal, with a lot of tape to protect my ... somewhat usable headlights. It has not since misted/monsooned up. I think I may have sealed it right the first time, but not have actually got the moisture out, or sealed it all in a warm area then it would condense when cold. In any case, now it does not condense on its own while cold, and should be damn sealed with sickaflex everywhere, given I am now very intimate with how these things go together and come apart. Onto the next issue with moisture. My OEM oil pressure sensor seemed to do impossible things. At hot idle it would show 2-3 bar, and then at the next stop it would show... 1 bar. It also didn't really correspond to higher RPM properly. Because oil pressure shouldn't really behave like that I was somewhat confused. I checked my other oil pressure gauge on the other end of the Accusump and this behaved properly when revving the car, and was holding between 45 and 60psi (phew). Still this gauge made me sad. So I looked to how it was installed, my power steering leak causing issues in the past, I wondered if there was a leak that was messing with the reading of the sender. The sender grounds to the block and is 1/8 BSPT. The hole in the oil adapter is a 1/8 NPT. There was an adaptor already in there, and after messing with it, it looks to be the same thread as my oil temp sensor which is drilled into the oil block at the top, which VDO state is 1/8 NPTF. These were definitely all different from one another as I fiddled with them by hand. It looked as though the adapter in there with tape was a 1/8 NPTF extension. In any case, what I needed was a 1/8 NPT Male to 1/8 BSPT female extension. So I ordered that, and received an Aeroflow 1/8 BSPT Male to 1/8 NPT female. Which threaded together pretty easily until I did this to it. Yes, it snapped off inside the oil block adapter. Yes, I had to remove it from the car and drill/unthread it out. I then realized I got sent the wrong product, and the company that I bought it from sent me the correct product. My car sat on a 45 degree angle in the driveway with the oil block removed so oil wouldn't drain out in the interim. I received the correct part and now 1) I do not have any leaks 2) Oil pressure shows 45psi at idle, and increases with revs correctly in the OEM cluster (the 34 one responds very quickly) and I now get 60psi+ at 3-4k. Likely more past that but I didn't go redlining like a hoon. 3) It may be a placebo but less tapping from the engine while driving it around. In any case I have no leaks and very stout oil pressure. I have also ordered my bodykit parts for my ugly tetris block. The ETA on that is 11 weeks. I fully expect to annihilate the lip multiple times, so I am going to raise the car 20mm to get back to those mythical sydneykid specs at 360/350mm as I realised my car actually sits 340/340. Yes I bought a bodykit and will raise the car. I do strange things.  
    • Awesome. Thank you Duncan. I'll be ordering from them. They got some good prices.  Edit: Went ahead and ordered their stage 2, gonna need the rest of the "while I'm in there parts" free shipping so thats a plus. 
    • Well, welcome back. Unfortunately I don't have, and don't know where to get, the M35 manual, I only have the C34 one.
×
×
  • Create New...