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Air Box Setup


LTHLRB
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hey guys, seeing as iv just copped my 2nd canary in 2 weeks and an epa i want to get rid of my plates and go full plumb back and airbox setup with around 250+kw at the wheels. How many of you have done it? would it still work?

Iv seen the mines r34 with 400kw running airbox and the z tune running air box. Would it be possible with the rb25det?

thanks. Phill

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yes it is apparently, but everywhere i read you have to "make up a larger feed for the stock airbox". when i figure this out i will share but it is not easy in the r33 engine bay if you have intercooler piping in the way of the original

Edit: anyone done so? pics?

Edited by jeffworld2
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260kw with an apexi panel filter. Cut a 3" hole into the airbox and run a pipe with a bellmouth to my front bar, from which i have heard is legel.

im also still running the metal intake pipe which will be plumbed back with the bov and rocker cover breather like stock. Would that work?

Edited by LTHLRB
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I just changed back to stock air box...

my power levels are he same if not more than yours...seems to run fine

I'm using the stock intake also...as I couldn't work out a neat path for the 3" pipe I had run for my pod filter..

is quite as..and seems to run fine.

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i use the airbox.. i was also worried bout the size of the snorkel..

ive cut the front side out of the top of the airbox now.. so theres a big hole in it.. so the air can go in via the snorkel.. or via the hole at the front.

The area the airbox is in is pretty well shielded by the stock pipes (if u use a blitz style intercooler) so it keeps alot of the hot air out. when i stick my hand in the airbox the air is kinda cool, so i dont think its letting to much hot air in..

oh ya she also gained 4kw on the dyno :(

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260kw with an apexi panel filter. Cut a 3" hole into the airbox and run a pipe with a bellmouth to my front bar, from which i have heard is legel.

im also still running the metal intake pipe which will be plumbed back with the bov and rocker cover breather like stock. Would that work?

The hole you intend to cut must be in the top half of the std air box, above the filter (the lid). If you cut the hole on the bottom of the air box, and use a pipe to dirrect air from the bumper to the box, the engine will be sucking in unfiltered and un-metered (if still using afm) air; Bad news for turbo and engine.

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ahh alright, i was going to cut before the filter, so cold air goes into the filter then afm then turbo, is that the right way to cut? like where the standard air duct it, just make it 3" and run the pipe to the front bar.

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I too am using the standard airbox (cant stand the sound of a pod, makes the car sound like its on boost 24/7) but i have modified the airbox a little bit by removing the baffling/sound deadning stuff and also cutting out some of the inside of the airbox to make the airflow a bit smoother.

Underneath the baffling stuff is some plastic squares which are part of the mould of the airbox, when the baffling is removed the squares are right in the path of the airway which would slow the air down quite a bit if you think about it (you will see what i mean in the pics bellow), i cut the squares out of the airbox so it basically gives the air a smooth path to follow and directs the air straight into the air filter (instead of hitting the squares and slowing down), i also taped around the intake snorkel (the part of the airbox were the air intake attaches to) with some thick duck tape so it creats a better seal between the intake and the airbox snorkel (without the ducktape the intake was very loose on the airbox and didnt seal very well which would possibly let air escape.

Doing all of this might sound a bit stupid to some people but anything that improves ariflow is good in my books:)

In these pics you can see the difference between the squares in the airbox and the ones i have cut out, i also gave it a sand so it made it smooth (it dosent look to appealing but you dont see it anyway)

JaysR33027.jpg

JaysR33028.jpg

JaysR33029.jpg

JaysR33030.jpg

JaysR33032.jpg

And here you can see the duck tape wrapped around the inlet snorkel which also dosent look very good but you dont see it anyway lol

JaysR33031.jpg

JaysR33033.jpg

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i made a box myself, used about 4mm thick pvc plastic sheet i got from a plastics shop, made all the bends with a heat gun, and plastic welded the corner joints..

as for piping just cut out the hole with jigsaw, and for cold air hav a pipe from my front bar going in2 the bottom of the box

all up cost me $7.50 for the plastic sheet and $8 for black spray can so it looks legit

heres a pic:

post-31419-1166350662.jpg

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i made a box myself, used about 4mm thick pvc plastic sheet i got from a plastics shop, made all the bends with a heat gun, and plastic welded the corner joints..

as for piping just cut out the hole with jigsaw, and for cold air hav a pipe from my front bar going in2 the bottom of the box

all up cost me $7.50 for the plastic sheet and $8 for black spray can so it looks legit

heres a pic:

Nice work.

Still considered a modification though.

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i made a box myself, used about 4mm thick pvc plastic sheet i got from a plastics shop, made all the bends with a heat gun, and plastic welded the corner joints..

as for piping just cut out the hole with jigsaw, and for cold air hav a pipe from my front bar going in2 the bottom of the box

all up cost me $7.50 for the plastic sheet and $8 for black spray can so it looks legit

heres a pic:

yeh well done bro it looks pretty good but how does that plastic hold up in hot days or even normal days?

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The hole you intend to cut must be in the top half of the std air box, above the filter (the lid). If you cut the hole on the bottom of the air box, and use a pipe to dirrect air from the bumper to the box, the engine will be sucking in unfiltered and un-metered (if still using afm) air; Bad news for turbo and engine.

i can't see how it would be unmetered mate. think about what you are saying. the air goes into the airbox, then through the air flow meter how is that unmetered?

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