Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Advice On Emanage Vs. Afc Neo


MZTRBO
 Share

Recommended Posts

Paul;

My comment about the F-CON being used in the top GTRs in the world was in response to a previous comment that needed justification. I totally agree that it has zero relevance to this case.

"any ecu can make a car go fast, its how well its tuned and of course additional features it has"

Little bit contradictory...

True any ECU can be made to tune a car so it's fast... but as you just said: how well it's tuned and the features. Can't tune a ECU well when it just doesn't have the features nor does it have the tunability.

SAFCII is good; but not for the power you're talking about 250rwkw? Don't think so...

Finally, back on the E-Manage topic:

If you do some research you will find that many SAU people have had major problems with just the INSTALLATION of the E-Manage let alone using it. 666DAN will be able to back me up on this. You simply cannot just plug it in an make it work. I think there was a lot of DIY involved in order to make it work stably.

MAP capabilities? Using the Profec B? Hmmm.... and just take a look at N I B's comment.

F-CON, hasn't skipped a beat~

Link to comment
Share on other sites

why do you think the safc cant get to 250rwkw? all it does it bend the afm signal. sure its a comprimise but all of the solutions are comprimises.

i dont see why a particular ecu would be limited to a power level, its just ign and inj values. i see no reason why the safc could not get a customer to 250rwkw. it will be a more tedious to do the initial tune as youll get to a point where it will advance the timing too much and induce detonation, but you should be able to get 250rwkw.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

SAFC is a signal bender only with all fuel tuning changes have an affect on timing with no means to sort this problem.If you lean out an SAFC it tells the ECU its under less load so it moves the ECU into a lower load zone delivering less fuel but also more timing often leading to detonation.

SAFCs place in the food chain is basic modded cars only.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as I know SAFC is a fuel controller only (+/- 16 points) along a preset RPM range.

Problems:

1) No ignition changes

2) No compensation for bigger injectors (stock ECUs won't even work with bigger injectors)

3) What N I B said...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

of course the safc wont work with bigger injectors

the user doesnt need to change injectors

it will move the ign timing around as the afm signal it bent

as the load is moved around, so to are the ign/inj load points

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah Paul is correct from my exp.

I have run them had not real issues...

max'n out injectors is mod/tune dependant - mine were 95% at 260rwkw...with an EMANAGE...but thats with a better fuel pump...not std fuel pressure.

The emange will run to 280 cos I have done it...But I got a much better tune form the PFC.

I have also ran the emanage and the SAFC in my FTO...low power app with EXACTLY the same dyno after....

Every1 else has posted pros and cons...

Get a PFC or Haltech as suggested.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the emanage blue... the options all add up, e.g. the software (unless your tuner already has it), the injector harness, etc. You should check out the emanage ultimate if you're looking at going this road.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

The Ultimate seem like a good buy with all the harness and support tool provided. Anyway it is nice to be able to fiddle with the software and tuning by yourself, but tuning it wrong is high which let to my friend blowing up his engine on the same day he dyno then when home to alter the setting himself. Most piggy back & ECU should be tune on the dyno then leave it once it's done. I will probably go for an FCon SZ or a 2nd FCON Vpro depending on availability plus i have a tuner who drives a GTT with Vpro too. We are always chasing for power, so buy something that do not limit ur goal for many year to come since the ECU is the brain for everything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I do think it's weird I had it for 2 weeks then the issue came up out of nowhere and progressively got worse. I would've imagined changing everything in the ignition system would've resolved any ignition related misfires but still has the high rpm and idle misfires that seem unchanged. I would've thought if it was fuel related it would happen all the time unless it's the pump losing pressure when it gets hot. If it was the ecu I would think it would do it all of the time.  Something I noticed when I had it all apart was a pretty decent coating of oil in the J pipe coming from the throttle body. The weird thing about that is the pcv that goes to the intake is blocked off. So that has me wondering if the oil is coming from the turbo because that's the only thing that could get oil in there. This thing does sound like it spools like a mofo like I'm a former dsm guy and the only stock turbo I've ever heard spool this loud (to only go up to about 5psi) is on a diesel truck. And the recirculated bov is really loud too I had a TurboXS RFL and this thing is just as loud and being so low on psi seems a little weird. I don't know if any of this is or isn't related but just trying to make sure I'm not leaving any potentially helpful information out. 
    • So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before.  So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe  the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running.  So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it. 
    • @niZmO_Man thanks for that info, lucky I bought the gktech ones 🤙.
    • Never cheap out on brakes, tyres, suspension. I learnt the hard way at Oran Park lol
×
×
  • Create New...