Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nice looking curve indeed. for me, i reckon with the track use you give it i wouldn't mind a little more fuel up top. shape of the afr is no problem though, as long as the power curve is good (which it is). the boost curve could be better though. something is not quite right with that.

drop of 2psi on the boost curve

ruler flat boost curve would be nice but not necessary IMO. A drop of 2psi simply means your turbo's not working quite so hard at high RPM and that's where things start to fly apart. It just means you can run 2psi more boost in the midrange!! :D

The boost curve is my fault. I haven't adjusted the actuator enough. I will fix that.

As for more boost. I didn't try it but I doubt the turbo has much left in it so I didn't think to bother giving it a go.

Very nice curve Adam! I think this may have just swayed me to take my car to Unigroup when I get my tuned done. I'm was still deciding between them, Hitman or Powertune.

Do you mind listing what mods you have done to the car?

Rebuilt engine with Wiseco forged pistons and Tomei Type B, 260/260 Poncams. Running 8:75:1 compression ratio.

Blitz LM intercooler

Apexi pod (only because the stock airbox is such a pain to remove and refit all the time, the stock one was no restriction)

Nismo 480cc injectors at an occasional 100%

R34 GTR fuel pump and regulator

GCG highflow turbo

CES split dump/front pipe

Fujitsubo cat back (quiet one)

3" cat in since compliance

Apexi AVC-R

PFC

That's the power mods.

As far as Unigroup are concerned. They really involved me in the process which I liked. Of course you can drop you car off and pick it up 3 days later running perfectly but I like to fiddle and I like to learn. Yavuz (if i spelled his name right) is definitely a perfectionist but he doesn't think you will take his job if he teaches you something. He keeps no secrets.

Excellent, thanks! :D

Hmm I was thinking of going 260 poncams as well but if you're hitting 100% at 272kw I think I should stick to 250 because I've only got 440cc injectors. Thanks for the reminder, I think its just saved me quite abit of money. :D

i'm not sure I can see this direct correlation between cam duration, and injector duty cycle? injector duty cycle is controlled by one thing only. the numbers inputted into the CPU. the size of injectors required is controlled by one relationship only. the amount of air you are stuffing into the engine, vs the air fuel ratio you want to maintain.

lol, so you didn't cave when he told you to wind up the boost some more?

It's times like this i regret getting rid of my highflow and sticking the hks manifold and t300s on. So much work, so little gain....but I still have 2 more rwkw!

hi there just wondering how much did it cost?

cheers

They certainly know their stuff. I really enjoyed this one. I learnt a lot and the car is putting out a little more power, very safely, with nice smooth AFR's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...