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Essential Mods For R33 Gts-t


m_7581
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Hi all,

I'm on the verge of purchasing not only my first Skyline, but my first turbo...cant wait!

Anyway, my question is; what are the essential modifications that need to be done for a stock series 2 R33? I want to keep if fairly simple initially...maybe exhaust and pod (good idea?).

Cheers!

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obligatory 'do a search' post

in fact, i'll link you straight to the thread --->

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=45218

My own 2c: Do the full exhaust first (front and back), then a pod filter with cold air intakes.. after that, you can look at a front mount intercooler and ECU replacement before moving on to turbo and injectors

almost forgot: somewhere early on you'll want a boost controller so you can control how much boost your getting. If your not gonna do anything radical in the near future, a cheap bleed valve will do the trick.

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Full exhaust is a good idea.

Pod filter is a bad idea - waste of effort/time and money and you get unwanted police attention. Oh and 'no' power gain over the factory airbox.

Before skipping off to do the front mount intercooler, there are a number of other things like....

A good tune, along with fluid changes for everything. That is going to cost a few dollars.

Pineapples - AKA diff cradle bushes, these give you more of what even stock skylines don't have much of , traction. $100 and 30min to pop them in.

A good set of tyres.

A decent set of brake pads, if you are unlucky the ones you buy the car with might be el'cheapos pone to almost instant fade.

There are lots of things you can do in keeping the car simple.

The R34 intercooler offers about the best value intercooler upgrade solution for the stock turbo setup, in line with your goal of keeping the car simple. Even that doesn't need to be done in order to get the car going into low 13's over a 1/4.

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A good tune, along with fluid changes for everything. That is going to cost a few dollars.

Why does everyone say a GOOD TUNE all the time...

What do they mean? When I think of a tune, I think of making sure the fuel and or ignition maps are in order... how do you do this with a stock ECU?

A good tune takes alot more than a dyno run at your tuner's shop.

I would say, you need to look at other threads where people are having issues. On pretty much any page of the forced induction section u'll find someone bitching about a miss during certain rpms on their r33's... a little further searching will show this is often cause they run too rich...

so get an safc or aftermarket ECU.. then... go for that GOOD TUNE

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Why does everyone say a GOOD TUNE all the time...

What do they mean? When I think of a tune, I think of making sure the fuel and or ignition maps are in order... how do you do this with a stock ECU?

A good tune takes alot more than a dyno run at your tuner's shop.

I would say, you need to look at other threads where people are having issues. On pretty much any page of the forced induction section u'll find someone bitching about a miss during certain rpms on their r33's... a little further searching will show this is often cause they run too rich...

so get an safc or aftermarket ECU.. then... go for that GOOD TUNE

Someones feeling cranky today.... :(

But he is right. You can have a bit of a play with the base timing on the dyno but thats about it prior to getting some form of tunable management.

Personally, get a full exhaust, get a set of swaybars and some aftermarket castor rods. Some alloy subframe bushes and lock the hicas. That'll do for stage one.

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Why does everyone say a GOOD TUNE all the time...

What do they mean? When I think of a tune, I think of making sure the fuel and or ignition maps are in order... how do you do this with a stock ECU?

A good tune takes alot more than a dyno run at your tuner's shop.

I would say, you need to look at other threads where people are having issues. On pretty much any page of the forced induction section u'll find someone bitching about a miss during certain rpms on their r33's... a little further searching will show this is often cause they run too rich...

so get an safc or aftermarket ECU.. then... go for that GOOD TUNE

I don't mean visit a dyno with regards to a 'good tune'. Let me re-phrase for clarification.

This is what I mean;

On a factory ecu you can't do anything with the fixed maps. However you can ensure that the base timing is correct. Sounds easy. It is. However - I might tenatively suggest the factory setting isn't the best for Australian fuels etc. So if you take it to one mechanic you may recieve the factory setting for your trouble, if this is not best you have not recieved 'part' of what is overall a 'good tune'.

The other things that get set and checked in the tune ought to be things like:

plugs are in good condition and correctly gapped, injectors are cleaned, fuel filter replaced, any solenoids are free of gunge (cold enrichment), belts are in good nick and correctly tensioned, hose clamps are secure on all pipe work, hoses are servicable, coil packs need checking for faults.

Now some of this might be called 'maintenence' but, rest assured if you have just picked up the car and you have some or all of them needing attention then it effects 'the tune'. To have a 'good tune' they all are addressed where needed.

You don't necessarily need to visit a dyno to see before and afters. A 'good tuner' will set the car up well and you will notice the difference right away. I haven't needed to frequent dyno's over the years and saved lots of coin doing things the old fashioned way with modest sucess.

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I think everyone seems to be on the right ball..

If your after "power".. than go Full Exhaust + maybe a hi-flow panel filter

R34 SMIC seems to be the way to go for intercooler - from what everyone says they're safe up to 200rwkw

Bleed valve off the forum for $30 - set boost at a constant 8psi to be safe..

Than i'd start looking at either SAFC/PFC and SydneyKid suspension setup..

ASSUMING you have good tyres, brakes are in good condition and the car is going fine.. Also assumes you have had the Engine and Gearbox Oil Changed and all fluids checked..

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