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R33 Rb30 Conversion


JNR24

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Originally posted by Skyrine-Dave

not after a How-to guide on a performance motor

i just want to know what crank, pistons and rods are required to get it running/fit.

the head question was thrown

CRANK: RB30 Stock crank, get it balanced etc.

RODS: RB30 Stock rods, Polished, shot-peened, nitraded (if you want)

PISTONS: Get a set of forgies and machine the block to fit.

This is just what to use, not the background in getting it together, etc.

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Originally posted by matlowth

I think you misunderstood me there :D

What i meant, was that the RB30 (in exactly the same state of tune as an equivalently prepared RB25 short block in your car is going to cost you around 2-3k more.

If you only want 300rwkw you're wasting your money paying for the extra capacity.

Just trying to save you money :)

Cheers,

matt

Yep i sure did misunderstand you there!

Most definatly matt, your right this definatly is a high HP conversion and isnt really worth it if your after a mild-slightly wild streetable R33. The 2.5 engine capacity will be able to provide you with enough cubes to push up to the 300RWKW mark. Also note that even in a 2.5 your still going to be spending a considerable amount of money to get it there. Lets face it 300rwkw is alot of power. I mean The most expensive $100,000ISH HSV just pushes up 300KW (Flywheel,wheels?).

Obviously if you wanna go on past 300KW you have power on the mind!!

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JNR24... You will find 300rwkw is around 390kw at the flywheel.

That is around 520hp at the flywheel or 400hp at the rear wheels.

Hell of a lot of power.

I would be interested to see the RB30DET's torque spread and compare a tweaked LS1 making similiar power.

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JNR24, yes indeed - 300rwkw is a heck of a lot of power in a street car... Having blown away some 900-1000cc sports bikes on the run is testament to that!

Joel - funny you should say that... The power run you saw on my car was done at an LS1 dyno day where a supercharged LS1 ran there. It made 280rwkw and made a lot less torque than mine :P

The commy boys weren't very happy with that ;)

matt

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Here is all I have at the moment:

http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/

Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as.

The file is around 120kb.

If there is anything I have got wrong or should add please let me know.

I'm waiting for 25t to find out how he is going to get around the differences in the block design for the VCT + pics.. :D

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Hey Joel,

Have a Exact CAD drawing with mounting details of the oil squirter hole centres etc which Ill post from work tomorrow,the block is at the machine shop a present some picks will follow its return,

To solve the VCT oil feed problem I removed the Vct solinoid and drilled straight down the vvt oil feed galery through a brass plug and into the cavity which houses the VCT solinoid, the oil gallery on the block side of the head has been plugged with alloy expoxy putty ,when heated it expands and contracts at the same rate as alluminum,very important!!

the rb30 block water gallery has also had the plastic metal treatment (cast iron stuff) the area which i have filled is directly opisite the area you have circled ,this was done to create a sandwich area for the head gasket

my latest eye opener was to find the block is minus a water feed port which i need to for the turbo return water cooling line

cheers

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Joel & others,

I am now starting to think that this VCT is becoming a bit of a issue and is becoming unclear to most of us here.

Does someone want to shed some light on the benifits of Keeping VCT (If possable) and how to keep VCT in the RB30/25 Combo conversion. ( as this will also be my biggest issue.

Cheers,

Trev

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To solve the VCT oil feed problem I removed the Vct solinoid and drilled straight down the vvt oil feed galery through a brass plug and into the cavity which houses the VCT solinoid.

Ill let you know if it works

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Yer that is what 25t is doing now.

As soon as he gets back with pics and a little bit of info i'll throw it in the pdf.

Disconnect your vct and go for a drive. :(

Really it is hard to compare the two as the cams in the vct head are designed to be used in vct mode so i'm not sure but there may be a greater power loss using those cams compared to a standard non vct head.

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I grabed a quick price from Nissan:

Big End Bearings ~$90 Set of 12?!?

Mains ~$160.

R33 GTR/V Oil Pump ~$633

I really need to grab a book and read a little about rebuilding engines and their parts.

I asked about rod bearings or the rod bearing caps and I was told that is part of the Big End bearings?!?! Any 1 care to help me out?

There is an issue.. Apparently the RB oil pumps have a different size gear i.e NA and ET pumps have a different size gear how is the over come?

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I grabed a quick price from Nissan:

Big End Bearings ~$90 Set of 12?!?

Mains ~$160.

R33 GTR/V Oil Pump ~$633

yes

6 rods = 12 bearings

I asked about rod bearings or the rod bearing caps and I was told that is part of the Big End bearings?!?! Any 1 care to help me out?

Rods have two 'ends', the big end at the crank end of the rod, and the little end at the piston end of the rod.

the little end is a hole that the gudgeon pin goes through. the big end is in two halves that bolt together around the crank. The part that goes opposite the rod, around the crank, is called the endcap - this is why there is 12 bearings for 6 rods, 1 bearing half goes on the rod side, one half goes on the cap side - making 2 bearings per cylinder.

There is an issue.. Apparently the RB oil pumps have a different size gear i.e NA and ET pumps have a different size gear how is the over come?

I think Sydneykid has answered this in a previous post, aftermarked adapters are available?

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Lowlux.... Cheerz Big Ears :P That would be helpful.

Steve.. Thanx for the explanation. I had a look at the rebuild section of my old 82' Mazda 626 Gregory's Manual. All coming together now ;)

hrmm I wonder how good a VLT oil pump is.

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