Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Paul33 and all , I went to make an extention cord today from a PS2 extention cord and unfortunately removed the wrong pin . I have a late R33 GTST PFC and Commander and I stuffed up but had I removed the one shown in the FAQ it would also have not worked - no offense here Paul . I have no idea if different series of PFC/Commanders are different but mine is as follows .

If you look into the Commanders plug (mine anyway) with the indentation in the shroud facing down you'll see five pins . A std PS2 male plug has six , if you count the pins in a clockwise direction (starting after the shrouds indentation ie approx seven o clock) the Apexi Commander plug has the pin in position three missing and klutzoid me removed pin one ie first one . So you don't have a spare cord that won't suit anything I advise people to check the commander plug they have and remove the pin in the PS2 extention cord to suit .

For those looking I found my PS2 extention cord at Jaycar and is "COMPUTER" branded , 1.8M long Pn WC7532 . It cost around $11 so not too bad , except this one was the last on the rack at my closest outlet ...

Happy PFCing , cheers Adrian .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157768-making-a-pfc-ps2-extention-cord/
Share on other sites

Hey Disco,

I bought a ps2 extension cable from jaycar some time ago to find the center plastic locating lug was a different shape which prevented it sliding in.

I ended up buying a pfc extension from nengun. I've ran the cable up in to the glove box latch. It sits there nice and tidy, finger up it and knock down the connector and plug the h/c in.

you can get the standard ps/2 style male and female connectors from jaycar or dicksmith.. whatevers your poison really..

Hey Disco,

I bought a ps2 extension cable from jaycar some time ago to find the center plastic locating lug was a different shape which prevented it sliding in.

I ended up buying a pfc extension from nengun. I've ran the cable up in to the glove box latch. It sits there nice and tidy, finger up it and knock down the connector and plug the h/c in.

Hey Disco,

I bought a ps2 extension cable from jaycar some time ago to find the center plastic locating lug was a different shape which prevented it sliding in.

Correct, the PS2 centre lug is larger than the PFC connector. The centre lug is normally plastic, however, and can simply be trimmed slightly with a razor blade from the top. Hard to explain but easy to work out if you compare the 2.

My Commander plugs into the female end of the cable and later in the day I'll remove the correct pin and at least see if it fits the PFC female socket . I did note the plastic lug in the Commander socket looks slightly wider and shorter but a hot model knife should fix this . The aim is to have access to the ECU and its a bit obvious having the Commander plugged in all the time . My nippers miss nothing and tell all .....

Also dumb question , I gather most people stick the velcro patches to the back of their PFC and hang it off what ever handy piece of tin plate Nissan provided . Mines "fully floating" ATM which would not be good for it and am thinking of using a couple of Jaycars velcro straps and a bit of foam rubber to cut down vibration .

Not so dumb question , does anyone know if the factory boost control valve works with the PFC and Apexi MAP sensor in place . I'm lazy and if it works like this (fingers crossed) saves me cutting / shutting wires and mounting non std fitment solenoid valve .

Cheers and thanks , Adrian .

hey just found this thread

i brought a ps2 extension cord from dick smiths

was about 10 then broke off the pin as per the diagram in the FAQ and it worked first shot. its permentantly in my car so i can remove the hand controller easier and whack on datalogit when i need to. as the others mentioned youll notice the centre lug is a bit different, i just cut mine with a knife and worked fine

you can use the factory boost control solenoid but its sucky ive heard

sluggish boost control at best, so it may work, but probably suck

My Commander plugs into the female end of the cable and later in the day I'll remove the correct pin and at least see if it fits the PFC female socket . I did note the plastic lug in the Commander socket looks slightly wider and shorter but a hot model knife should fix this . The aim is to have access to the ECU and its a bit obvious having the Commander plugged in all the time . My nippers miss nothing and tell all .....

Also dumb question , I gather most people stick the velcro patches to the back of their PFC and hang it off what ever handy piece of tin plate Nissan provided . Mines "fully floating" ATM which would not be good for it and am thinking of using a couple of Jaycars velcro straps and a bit of foam rubber to cut down vibration .

Not so dumb question , does anyone know if the factory boost control valve works with the PFC and Apexi MAP sensor in place . I'm lazy and if it works like this (fingers crossed) saves me cutting / shutting wires and mounting non std fitment solenoid valve .

Cheers and thanks , Adrian .

with the mounting I wasn't happy with the velcro idea. so I took the back plate of my stock ECU and took the back place off the PFC and swapped them over. the screws don't line up perfectly so I could only use 2 of the 4, but at least I could then bolt in in properly. worth a try.

Mk2 cable works - had to remove the plastic "spike" because it didn't like the PFC ECU's socket . Datalogit box didn't like the PS2 cable for all the same reasons so easiest to use their cable . Datalogit not mine BTW .

Paul33 if you read this it may be worth adding to the PFC FAQ that if the car (R33) has the std boost control system modded by the permanent earth method (hi boost all the time trick) to reverse it . We found that with it the solenoid stays shut and the turbo tries to boost to the moon . Ya live and learn !

Cheers Adrian .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...