Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering... i havnt noticed if they actually work at all but the lights on the series one spoiler arnt workin.

I have had someone tell me they were working other night but not now...

Anyhow just wondering what globes or LEDS they take... and how to change em.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163706-spoiler-tail-light/
Share on other sites

I had to replace the spoiler LED part in my Series 2 R33 and it was all one piece.. they're quite expensive too, called Nissan for a new price and nearly fell over. I don't know if Series 1's are the same but try your local wreckers first and go from there.

Good Luck

Edited by Fry_33

thanks mate yea thought i might have to...

Just jap have em for 199 i think.

would the lights go out one by one if they blew or they have some connection where if one goes they all do?

Just so i know if its a globe, wiring etc.

I just tried to find it again and cant... I dunno what i typed in search but tried heaps of keywords.

Anyhow i copy and pasted what i found in word document....

Hopefully this helps.

This is a common problem. Almost certainly it's

the diode in the circuit under the red plastic.

Check the fuse first to make sure,

but I think the same fuse controls other things

like the rest of the brake lights so

you'll probably have no brake lights at all

if it's the fuse.

Remove the whole lighting assembly

(I think it's held in with 2 screws from underneath)

and check the circuit with an ohmmeter.

If it's open, then it's probably the diode.

Separate the red lens from the backing plastic

with a razor blade or the like,

and look near where the wires go in,

you'll see the diode and probably notice it's

burnt out.

You can either replace the diode with the same type,

or just put a straight piece of wire in.

The diode is only there to stop the whole series

of LEDs getting zapped if you wire it in back to

front, which you won't do because the plastic clip

is directional.

So a bit of wire is fine (that's how I fixed mine).

Put it all back together, using spots of super glue

here and there to hold it in place. Not too much

though because you want to be able to pull it apart

again if you need to fix it in future.

If you use wire instead of another diode though

you probably won't ever have to fix it,

except to replace individual burnt out LEDs,

which is a total bitch to do and probably

not worth the effort.

Ive decided to drive without it working till i can find a series 2 spoiler. (if it fits)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...