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Diy:diff Shimming For R33 Gtst


Trust33

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fitted em up, what a bitch to get the center back into the car lol. when i finaly got it in, the splines on the longer half shaft didnt line up in the final section. what a bitch, back out with the center it came, i did actualy line up the splines like you said, might i add for anyone else doing this. once you put ur shims in put both half shafts into the center completly in, then tighten the 2 philips heads, then leave the shafts in. put ur ring gear over the top and rattle that up with the half shafts still in the center. makes it alot easier and no room for error. the first time i was literaly .2mm off the splines being 100percent. and yet it wouldnt go in all together.... peace!

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lol i almost did the same thing man, me and my mate helping had an argument over it (both tired from a hard day snowboarding the day b4, and sick to death of the stupid diff lol), but lucky i realized b4 we went to put it back in. well its been like 2.5 weeks now of daily driving and its still compleatly locked, i get so many looks from ppl when i turn a sharp corner, even pulling in and out of car parks but hey, you want a cheap but good lsd then dont complain about the little things lol. :(

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fitted em up, what a bitch to get the center back into the car lol. when i finaly got it in, the splines on the longer half shaft didnt line up in the final section. what a bitch, back out with the center it came, i did actualy line up the splines like you said, might i add for anyone else doing this. once you put ur shims in put both half shafts into the center completly in, then tighten the 2 philips heads, then leave the shafts in. put ur ring gear over the top and rattle that up with the half shafts still in the center. makes it alot easier and no room for error. the first time i was literaly .2mm off the splines being 100percent. and yet it wouldnt go in all together.... peace!

how quick did you get those shims, seems like you got them in the same day, im still waiting for mine from japan i ordered them two ago from metro nissan, cant wait to do it before powercruise, :(

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yeh man the same thing was happening to me. i had this shit little vice to work with aswell. i was so ready to give up but id come to far to just put it all back without finishing. today was the first day of driving in the wet and it was sweet, so much more control now. very glad i did it but i hope it stops this chirping around tight corners soon, how long did it take your to wear in?

the wheels are still chirping on mine.i got a comment from the boys at a local gearbox joint.and they laughed at how cheap i did it for.

fitted em up, what a bitch to get the center back into the car lol. when i finaly got it in, the splines on the longer half shaft didnt line up in the final section. what a bitch, back out with the center it came, i did actualy line up the splines like you said, might i add for anyone else doing this. once you put ur shims in put both half shafts into the center completly in, then tighten the 2 philips heads, then leave the shafts in. put ur ring gear over the top and rattle that up with the half shafts still in the center. makes it alot easier and no room for error. the first time i was literaly .2mm off the splines being 100percent. and yet it wouldnt go in all together.... peace!

yes the splines must be aligned if you want to have any chance of the centre lineing back up.all you need is the longest of the 2 put back in completely and it will be alligned.you dont need both as far as i can remember.

if you look closely at the end of the spline youl see it goes thru past the centre of the spline to the start of other side.

yeah i did mine six months ago was a bitch.

it is still locked the same as six months ago ;)

mean looking r33 in your avatar.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Diff is still going strong. excellent for drifting. If the car were track only this mod would last a very long time at its peak.

i did an IDA drift day at OP north 2 weeks ago and all was good. not bad for a daily driven/tracked car.

$60 mod inc shims & oil. FTW11TY.

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i did mine with 2 1.49 and a stocko .8 haha its locked like a motha farka i think im gonna take one out

did you keep both standard .8s in there or only one??

does having extra shims decrease the longevity of your diff generally speaking?

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did you keep both standard .8s in there or only one??

does having extra shims decrease the longevity of your diff generally speaking?

im not to sure.

well mine is still good :cheers:

some say that you have to have the backlash reset. though i never did. backlash has to do with the way the crown wheel re-aligns with the cog.

One of the critical measurements that must be made is setting your backlash. What is backlash? When you turn the pinion on your differential it will turn a specific amount of space before it actually contacts the the ring gear to turn your axles. If you have too little backlash the pinion is jammed into the ring gear and this will produce a lot of friction and heat and will lock up your rear axle. It will not turn freely. If you have too much backlash the pinion and ring gear will be too far apart and this will allow the gears not to mess properly and with the force of your motor will chip and destroy the teeth of the gears. This will cause excessive whining and will eventually destroy your axle again.

so you see i and others might have got lucky. mine doesnt make a peep.

as for adding extra shims. well i would lean towards keeping the diff somewhere in the vicinity of 3mm worth of total shim. mainly because i take it to the track and use it as a daily. if it were a daily only then i would have it somewhere in the 2- 2.5mm worth of total shim. in the first few months try to avoid coing arround tight corners when po-po are arround it will only draw unwanted attention to your car.

blck32 said he put 2 1.49 and a stocko .8 so he has 3.78 worth of shim in there. that would be very,very tight.

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  • 1 month later...

a friend of mine just bought 1.2mm shim for me.

So im gonna be adding 2.8mm of preload all up (1.2 plus stock ones)

I will let everyone know how it goes.

Taking the car to track day shortly, so hopefully it helps!!

How did you find your car around track? Not drifting tho, just pure grip if possible?

Edited by siddr20
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It was me who bought sidd his 1.2mm shim :P and one for myself!!

Ill be giving this a go tomorrow. Hoping that this should help with traction out of corners when Im at Wakefield next week. Ill report back as to how 2.8mm of total shim preload works for a daily with light track duties.

Fingers crossed all goes to plan and that I can find someone to give me a hand lifting the diff out/back into position... :P

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My god I hate the stupid diff to tailshaft bolts...

Finally have two of them off, two of them still stuck on and two 14mm ring spanners broken in the process... haha

Anyone with any tips or tricks to get them off?

Before it is suggested, I have *soaked* these mofos in WD40, and I have been using a hammer to smack the spanners and work the bolts loose.

The biggest prob I am having is that there is so little room that the ring of the ring spanner is actually too thick to get over the top of the bolt, so Ive had to grind down two crappy spanners in order to fit them over. Obviously this wouldnt help the strength (especially with the questionable strength of crappy spanners in the first place), even more so when youre smacking them with a mallet. So Id say thats why the two have broken...

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My god I hate the stupid diff to tailshaft bolts...

Finally have two of them off, two of them still stuck on and two 14mm ring spanners broken in the process... haha

Anyone with any tips or tricks to get them off?

Before it is suggested, I have *soaked* these mofos in WD40, and I have been using a hammer to smack the spanners and work the bolts loose.

The biggest prob I am having is that there is so little room that the ring of the ring spanner is actually too thick to get over the top of the bolt, so Ive had to grind down two crappy spanners in order to fit them over. Obviously this wouldnt help the strength (especially with the questionable strength of crappy spanners in the first place), even more so when youre smacking them with a mallet. So Id say thats why the two have broken...

I swapped my diff over on the weekend. I ran into the dreaded problem with the diff to tailshaft bolts too. I had a ratchet spanner but the head of it is too big to fit in that area so I started using my backup cheapy set of ring spanners. I still couldn't get enough leverage as I didn't have any pipe etc I could put over the spanner. I ended up having to buy a long spanner, I just bought a repco long 14mm. I then had enough leverage to undo it. Another thing that may make it hard is if you remove some of the bolts when the others are still tight. If you remove some bolts then the face of the diff and tailshaft may not be flat and increase the tightness of the bolt. Just crack the seal on all four before removing.

I also needed to buy another 19mm socket for the rear diff bolts as my one didn't have enough reach. Repco came to the rescue again, the socket is as long as a spark plug socket.

Good Luck

Edited by Fry_33
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I've never had issues with the tail shaft bolts and ring spanners being too small with sidchrome ringy's.

I use a ring spanner with an open ender on the opposite end. I then grab a suitable ring spanner that I loop over the end of the openender and have plenty of leverage.

As for the half shaft bolts. Do the same thing; crack them via the method above then use a stuby ratchet ringy and off they come.

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Diff is shimmed up, back in car, all is done.

What a motherfarker of a job haha :D

I can imagine that after having done it once, it would be significantly easier second time round. Also doing it on a long weekend is a shit idea (and why its taken me 3 days to finish it) because when you break something (like a couple of 14mm ring spanners...) or need something done (like the 10 stupidly tight crownwheel bolts), you cant because nowhere is open haha. Also try to have another car handy while you do it so you can actually get to the shops if you need to (thanks for the lifts Sidd if youre reading this :D )

So yeah, all in all its doable for anyone who doesnt mind getting their hands very dirty, but it is a reasonably large job. Getting the diff centre back in the casing is a complete bitch, and the undoing of everything is also a pain because if like me, your diff hasnt been touched basically since the day it left the front door at Nissan, youll find that plenty of the bolts are quite happy where they have been for the past ~15 years and arent too keen on moving without some serious encouragement...

Ill report back here as to how it goes, and Ill be at Wakefield on Thursday, so again Ill post again in this thread letting you all know how it helps in terms of getting a bit more power down out of corners.

Damn Im happy to have it all back together... haha :D

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Definitely makes it easier if you have access to a rattle gun.

First time around I popped down the local profix; they removed the crown wheel bolts without a sweat.

Second time around (s/h diff also untouched) I borrowed the old mans 18v dewalt rattle gun. No cursing no swearing the second time around. :D

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Yeah one of my mates used a battery powered snap on rattle gun for his. I headed up to Beaurepairs and the guy there rattled them off for me for free which was nice :D

Just went for a drive then and definitely a big noticable difference using a 1.2mm shim. Clunking and shuddering like a mofo around tight corners haha :D Seems to hook up pretty well though out of corners under power which is just what I was after.

So yeah, all in all pretty pleased so far, will just have to wait till Thurs to see how it holds up at Wakefield...

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  • 2 weeks later...

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